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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through I lie lull lexl of 1 1 us book on I lie web al |_-.:. :.-.-:: / / books . qooqle . com/| ^ >e- ^f J.//SS fro*, »/* faftarotr, Jin Samurl fiolucjtA. fiirar of (feMton.Pfotm. .11* Rotor, mprplr Start, 'Jmimltim.Afiams &■(!! limoon A fWawMjiilbi (M^MM^t^l Jfirasi ®f JWitMtr, Samurl ftolur.jfl.A. Itrar of (frrtntim. Jfton. fjjpSt- - A ii %.r^*i. ^TB^S^S^^^^^S^-^"^^^ DREWSTEICNTC'M tHOKLECM. $ljminitli. .Hi fiottr. Sample Stat, 'haimltim.AiVima &j Vltk, 1848. EXCURSIONS. Excursion I. — Sticklepath, Taw Marsh, Cosdon Hill, Clannaborough Common, Wotesbrook, Hound Tor, Scorhill Down, Watern Tor, Thirlstone, Oanmcre Pool, Fenworthy, Gidleigh Park, Chagford. II. — Holy-Street, Chagford Bridge, Shilston Cromlech, Bradmere Pool, Drewsteignton Logan Stone, Fingle Bridge, Prestonbury Castle, Cranbrook Castle, Whiddon Park, Chagford. 1H. — Jesson, Broadmoor Mires, Grey Wethers, Sittaford Tor, South Teign. IV. — Moreton, Mardon Down, Wooston Castle, Vale of Teign, Clifford Bridge, Donsford Bridge, Blackystone, Heltor, Bridford, Skattor, Moreton. V. — Lustleigh, Bottor Rock, Becky Fall, Manaton, North Bovey, Moreton. VI. — Bowerman's Nose, Houndtor, Heytor, Bcctor Cross, Moretou. VII. — King's Oven, Shapely Common, Vitifer Mine, Challacombe Down, Grinispound, Hamildon, Widdecombe, Rippon Tor, Answell Rock, Ashburton. VIII. — Holne Bridge, Holne Chase, Buckland in the Moor, Sharpitor, Rowbrook, Yartor, Brimps, Dartmeet, Hexworthy Bridge, Cumsdon Tor, Holne, Henbury Castle, Buckfast Abbey, Buckfastlcigh. IX. — Dean Gate, Dean Burn, Huntingdon Cross, Knattleburrow, Abbot's Way, River Avon, Shipley Bridge, Coryndon Ball, South Brent, Three Burrow Tor, Butterton Hill, Western Beacon, Ivybridge. X. — Harford, Sharpitor, Erme Plains, Erme Head, Grimsgrove, Langcombc Bottom, Yealm Head and River, Broadall Down, Pen Beacon, Shell Top, Cholwich Town, Goodamoor, Hemerdon Ball, Shaugh Prior, Trowlsworthy, Cadaford Bridge, Dewerstone Rock, Shaugh Bridge, Boringdon Camp, Plympton Earl. EXCURSIONS. XL — Plympton St. Mary, Plyin Bridge, Bickleigh Vale, Roborough Down, Meavy, Sheepstor, Eylesburrow, Si ward's Cross, Fox Tor, ('lacy well Pool, Black Tor, Stanlake, Priucc Town, Two Bridges. XII. — Crockcrn Tor, Parliament Rock, Dennabridge Pound, Bellevor Tor, Lakehead Hill, Bellevor Bridge, Post Bridge, Archcrton, Chittaford Down, Wistman's Wood, Baredown, Ficc's Well, Prince Town, Tor Royal, Mistor British Town, Great Mistor, Steeple Tors, Vixen Tor, Vale of the Walkham, Pewtor, Tavistock. XIII. — Ilia's Coombe, Mount Tavy, Cocks Tor, Petcrtavy, Lints Tor, Furtor, Watern Oak, Tavy Cleave, Marytavy, Tavistock, XIV.— Hcathfield Down, Brcntor, Lydford Fall and Bridge, Kate's Fall, Lydford Borough and Castle, Doctor, Sourton Tor, Stcngator, Willinghayes, Yestor, Miltor, Okehampton Castle, Okchampton. XV. — Okelands, Okehampton Park, Rowtor, Holstock, Cliapcl Ford, Belstone Tor, Nine Stones, Belstone, Belstone Cleave, Okehampton. ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Borders of Dartmoor, Frontispiece Drewsteignton Cromlech, Vignette Map of Dartmoor 1 Grimspound 44 Cyclopean Bridge 48 Sacred Circle 72 Rock Pillar 78 Stone Avenue 79 Tolmen 82 Rock Idol 122 Kistvaen 123 Logan Stone 139 PREFACE. An Essay on the most prominent objects of antiquarian interest, in the Forest of Dartmoor, was originally read before the Plymouth Institution in the year 1828, as the result of the united researches of a few members* of that Society, who at different times had pursued their investigations in a district which, although within a few miles of their town, was little known to the neighbourhood and the county in general. The paper drawn up at the request of my esteemed coadjutors, was subsequently published in the Transactions of the Society. Since that time I have endeavoured to prosecute the investigations thus begun, for the most part with the able assistance of my valued friend the President of the Institution, at such intervals as scanty leisure and few opportunities would permit ; hence, abundant materials have been collected for expanding the original essay into the present volume. The publication has been undertaken with the view of rendering the numerous objects of interest, with which the great moorland district of the West abounds, more generally known and appreciated, in the persuasion that within its limits there is enough to repay, not only the historian and antiquary, but also the scientific investigator, for the task of exploring the mountain-wastes of the Devonshire wilderness. The characteristic tors, capping the hills with their massive granite piles, supply an interesting field of study to the geolo- gist — Wistman's Wood, primitive and peculiar, affords an unique specimen to the botanist — and the aboriginal circumvallation of G rims- pound, one equally singular, to the antiquary. It is not difficult to • Henry Woollcombc, Esq., (President); Col. Hamilton Smith, L«\ K. S. ; John Pridcaux, Esq. ; and Rcr. Samuel Rowc. 11 PREFACE. imagine that relics so remarkable, if situated in a far distant land, would be sought out, chronicled, and described, for the information of the learned and gratification of the curious ; whilst in our own country, objects as fully calculated to illustrate the most antient periods of British history, as are the extraordinary ruins at Palenque that of Central America, are overlooked and neglected, as it would seem, for no other reason than their proximity, and facility of access. The tourist, who ventures to penetrate the Devonshire High- lands, will also find himself greeted with a succession of scenes of unexpected loveliness and grandeur, especially along the entire verge of the Moor, many of them rivalling the far-famed scenery of North Wales, but distinguished by characteristic features of peculiar beauty. Nor have they been thought unworthy of admiration by more than one traveller fresh from the charms of Continental magnificence and sub- limity, with whom I have visited the precincts of Dartmoor. My own opinion may be attributed to partiality for my native county, and to untravelled ignorance of The Alps and Apennine, The Pyrenean and the river Po ; but when it is fortified by the recorded sentiments of strangers, and by such competent and impartial authority as that of William Howitt, I feel justified, in specially referring to Devonshire, the pertinent expostulation which has been made with so much propriety in reference to Great Britain generally. Pilgrims of beauty, ye, who far away Roam where poetic deserts sadly smile, Oh ! ere you leave it, view your own fair native Isle. The testimony of a native of Scotland, a writer of some ten years ago, in Blackwood's Magazine, who is evidently well acquainted with the district he describes, may here be adduced. " West Devonshire is that large tract of land comprised between the Dartmoor mountains, the rivers Tamar and Plym, and the Plymouth Sound; and illustrious for the number, narrowness, and depth of the larger valleys, — whose banks generally rise into a flat ascent, from the banks of the dividing streams, — and for many down- like swells and many strangely fractured hills. You may know how dear this district was to us, last time we wandered through its delights, when we tell you that we often forgot where we vera wandering, and believed that we were holydaying it in one of the half lowland, half highland regions, among the blue bonnets of Auld Scotland. • • • Dartmoor, — we have nothing like it in Scotland. Our moor of Bannoch is a vast flat. * * But Dartmoor is no flat. It is indeed an elevated table land ; but its undulations arc endless ; there are no separate single masses, nor can it be called mountainous ;* but it is as if a huge mountain had been squeezed down, and in the process had split asunder, till the whole was one hilly wilderness, showing ever and anon strange half-buried shapes striving to uplift themselves towards the sky." To the same effect, but in a still more enthusiastic strain, is the panegyric of William Howitt, in his Rural Life of England. " If you want sternness and loneliness, you may pass into Dartmoor. There are wastes and wilds, crags of granite, views into far off districts, and the sound of waters hurrying away over tneir rucky beds, enough to satisfy the largest hungering and thirsting after poetical delight. I shall never forget the feelings of delicious cntrancement with which I approached the outskirts of Dartmoor. I found myself amidst the woods near Hay tor Crags. It was an autumn evening. The sun near its setting, threw its yellow beams among the rid lit up the tors on the opposite side of the valley into a beautiful glow. Below, the deep dark river went sounding on its way with a melancholy music, and as I wound up the steep road all beneath the gnarled oaks, I ever and anon caught glimpses of the winding valley to the left, all beautiful with wild thickets and half shrouded faces of rock, and still on high those glowing ruddy tors standing in the blue air in their sublime silence. My road wound up and up, the heather and the bilberry on cither hand, showing me that cultivation had never disturbed the soil they grew in ; and one sole woodlark from the far ascending forest on the right filled the wide solitude with his wild autumnal note. At that moment I reached an eminence, and at once saw the dark crags of Dartmoor liigh aloft before me." Such ts the verdict of a popular author, unbiassed by local ' Yet lie hoi just uUcil llic Darlmobi ridge, " vide supra. IV PREFACE. partialities, and conversant with the romantic loveliness of the Rhine and the stupendous magnificence of the Alps. And such is the district for which the author thinks himself justified in venturing to claim a foremost place among the scenes which England holds Within her world of beauty, in the hope that the charms of our Devonian highlands will be more generally known and appreciated, and the interesting monuments of antiquity which they shelter, will be more effectually protected against the manifold modes of spoliation and destruction which have arisen from multiplied population, increasing commercial speculations, and economic improvements. The venerable relics of past ages (like the antient Britons, retreating before overpowering numbers,) have been pursued from one asylum to another, until the moun- tainous districts of the western and south-western portions of the island afford them their last and only refuge. But their rocky citadel is no longer secure. Quarries are opened on the heights of Dartmoor — powder-mills are projected in the very heart of its solitudes — cultivation is smiting its corners — steam is marshalling his chariots of iron, and coursers of fire, panting to penetrate its fastnesses, — and the most interesting vestiges of antiquity are in hourly danger of destruction. An account of the district which contains them (in a more systematic form than has yet been attempted) may at least preserve their memory, or perhaps more happily, may be the means of rescuing them from the impending assaults of the mason's hammer, and the excavator's pick, and of perpetuating their existence by pointing out their claims to the protection of all who feel becoming interest in the history of their country and of mankind. I' J X . -0 * PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Regions like (his. which have come down to us rude and untouched from Iho spinning of time, fill the iniud with grand conceptions. far beyond the efforts of art and cultivation. Hi l tin. ARTMOOR, whilst it forms in itself the most conspicuous and characteristic feature 1 the physical geography of the county of | Devon, contributes also, in no small degree, to partitioning this important shire into three principal divisions, which, general] v speak- ing, are no less clearly defined by natural boundaries, than distinctly marked by pecu- liar features. From its extreme northern verge, North Devon* stretches to the Bristol flannel — the Teign sweeps round its eastern extremity within six miles of the Exe, (the well-defined boundary of East Devon) whilst South Devon or the South Hamsf includes the fertile tract stretching from the southern slope of the Moor to the English Channel, and extending east and west from the Teign to the Tamar. Thus centrally placed, Dartmoor forms the most prominent aud striking feature, not only of the county of Devon (occupying as it does one- • The Devonshire tonrist will, however, often find himself perplexed to ascertain whether he liaa reached North Devon or not. But "the North" has long been prorer- I't.itcd for the inderinitenesa of its whereabout, and the vagueness of the term a by no means confined to Devonshire. Ask Where's the North f At York "Us on the Tweed, In Scotland, at the Oreades; — and there In Iceland, Zcuilila, — or, no soul knows where. Tors, t South Devon is sometimes thug designated, but strictly speaking, the term Soul* Ifami is appropriated to a smaller district,— and a civcle, of which Toiuees is thfl centre, -ilh a radius of twelve or fourteen mile*, would, p-erhaps, most nearly approach to its ;ne rally received limits. 2 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. fifth of its entire area,) but of the whole Western peninsula. Yet, though contributing so largely to the beauty of the far famed Devonshire scenery, and ministering so effectually to the fertility of the soil, it is comparatively little known, even to the inhabitants of the very district which benefits so largely from its proximity. Dartmoor Proper, or the antient and royal Forest extent nd £ ^^ name, is defined by specific boundaries, but BOUNDARIES. ' J r . . as there are numerous outlying tracts presenting the same physical features as the forest itself, it is intended to include, in the present description, the adjacent common lands which partake of the same general character. Dartmoor and its adjuncts may thus be estimated, as extending about 20 miles from east to west, and 22 miles from north to south, and as containing more than 130,000 acres of land. De la Beche, the eminent geologist, calculates the distance from Butterton Hill on the south, to Cosdon Beacon in the north, at 22 miles, and observes, that, " both geographically and geologically, the elevated land which extends eastward from Cawsand Beacon to Cranbrook Castle, Buttern Down and Mardon Down, near Moreton Hampstead, ranging round thence by Bridford and Hennoek to High or Hey Tor, forms part of Dartmoor." From Hey Tor above Hsington Church-town in a S. W. direction, the boundary takes the line of hills which overlook Ashburton. Thence, skirting the parishes of Holne, Buckfastleigh, and Brent, it proceeds to its southernmost point at the Western Beacon, and Three Burrow Tor, above Ivybridge. Thence trending to the north west, it crosses the rivers Erme and Yealm, passes by Cornwood, below Pen Beacon and Shell Top, — then takes a westerly course in the line of the Hentor ridge and Shaugh moor, approaches its westernmost point at Meavy, and thence runs almost from south to north, by Walkhampton, Sampford Spiney, west of the Tavy, to Peter Tavy, Mary Tavy and Sourton, thence to Okehampton and Belstone, where at its northernmost point it reaches Cosdon or Cawsand Beacon, and returns eastward as above described. The whole forest of Dartmoor lies within the parish of Lydford,* * Rex habet burgum de Lidford, et burgensea ibidem tenant vigint. et octo burgenses infra burgum, et 41 extra, &c. Inter omnes redditua reddant tres libras ad I-KKAMHULATION UY A.I). 1248. by lar ihe largest in the county." " In Edward the Confessor's days it was the king's demesne," says Risdon, but in after-times it became an appanage of the Prince of Wales, as Duke of Cornwall. When then ii no heir apparent the forest reverts to the custody of the crown. Our indefatigable topographer quotes an antient document to show the former importance of the borough and manor of Lydford, and the extent of the forest of Dartmoor. On this, however, Lysons remarks, "it appears by a record, which lie (Risdon) quotes, that it was a forest in the time of William the Conqueror ; he does not tell where the record exists. The first part of it relating to Lydford, corresponds with the Survey of Domesday, but Dartmoor is not mentioned in that survey. It is called a forest in the record of 1338, and its boundaries were laid out by perambulation, in the following year."* The learned antiquary to whom this work is indebted for pre- fatory remarks on a collection of interesting antient documents, (Appendix VIII. J observes that nothing but the borough of Lydford is noticed in Domesday. The absence of any notice " of the royal castle and manor, with the forest which from time immemorial has been appendant to them," is accounted for, as it is pertinently argued, by the fact that it was in the hands of the king, and that an unculti- vated tract of land like that of Dartmoor, was under no circumstances likely to find its way into the enumeration of lands in Domesday. The Castle of Lydford and the Forest of Dartmoor antient having been granted by Henry III. to his brother PEBAH- Richard, Earl of Cornwall and Poictou, the afore- Bur.ATiON. said perambulation was made, by authority, in the twenty-fourth year of his reign, A.D. 1-48, and verified by the solemn oaths of the twelve Perambulators, whose names are specified in the document, a copy whereof and of another pentam, el stflumm, et sunt ibi qiindraRuiti domus Taslata, priusqunm Hex vei'it in Anglia, et pnedicl. bnreensen et manerinm de Lidford ae extendi! per toum *ill«ni el parnchium de Lidford, et per loinm forresiam clc Dartmoor. This is from Risdon, but Ihe fullawinR is from the original Eton Damuday, page 8U. Rex hnbet nniim burgiiin qui tocatiir Lidnforda quern trmtit Bdwardua rex ea die qua ipse fnit vivus et mortuna. Ibi babel rex vigiuu OCtO biugenaw infra bnrpim et form quadraRinta ununi et isli reddunl per annum ire* libra*. iU pensum regi, et ibi sunt quadrating damns v astute poBlqnftiu Willielmns lex habuit Angliani et aapndicti burgensea habent terrain ad duns eurmcas foras eiviialem. Et si •XH-lttin vadit per terrain vel per mare reddit lantum dc aervilio quantum Tulcuuia read it mi [isrustflpla. * Ltwnb, Miuj. Brit., Devon, val. ii., p. 314. 4 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. survey made in the reign of James I., A.D. 1609, are given in the appendix, (Documents, No. VI. and XII.) From these interesting records, it appears that the Commissioners began their perambulation at Cosdon Hill in the North Quarter, and proceeded south-eastward, skirting the bounds of Throwleigh, Gidleigh, and Chagford, to the point where the North joins the East Quarter, near Fenworthy. From hence, southward, the forest boundary runs deep into the moorlands, leaving Moreton six miles to the east, and crossing the road from that town to Two Bridges and Tavistock, below King's Oven, * follows the course of the Wallabrook, until that stream falls into the East Dart, which becomes the boundary as far as Dartmeet. Leaving the West Dart, the line intersects the extensive moors in the South Quarter above Holne, — proceeding to the springs of the Avon, and thence to the Erme. Passing the Erme, and leaving Yealm Head on the south, the boundary proceeds northwards to Siward's Cross, enters the West Quarter, makes for Hessary Tor, and from thence mounts to Great Mistor. Thence across the Walkham and Tavy, it goes up the Rattlebrook, passes over the West Ockment, below Yestor to the verge of Okehampton Park, crosses the East Ockment at Halstock below Belstone, and returns to the starting point at Cosdon. The Venville, or Fenfield districts, and those wastes f antiently known as the " Commons of Devonshire," are also mentioned in the presentment of the Jury of the Survey Court for the Forest, made in the sixth year of King James I., A.D. 1609. Bisdon enumerates the bounds and limits of the Fenfield men's tenures, beginning from Podaston Lake, running through Ashburton, and so through various places specified " to Ashborne, and so from thence in stream of Dart." But it would be difficult, if not impossible, to identify the names thus enumerated with existing places ; so that little available information on those points can be gleaned from his statement. But a * Furnum Regis, King's Oven or Furnace. Probably an antient smelting or blowing house. f In the forest, as well as in the venville commons, there have been from antient times certain inclosed lands called new-takes, as appears from accounts rendered by the officers of the forest and manor. The sums paid for these holdings are entered as new rents, and the tenure is called Land-bote. It is curious to observe that many of these new-takes (in the time of Henry VII.) contained no more than a single acre of land, Appendix No. VIII. For an explanatory notice of the use of this word landbote, in western rentals, see the ArchaologicalJournal, April, 1848. vF.wiT.r.E Botrara. notion of Venville bounds will he gained by an enumeration of the parishes in VeiiciUe, which on examination will be found to lie immediately round the Moor. Beginning in the north, and proceeding eastward, we shall find them to be Bel stone, South Tawton, Throw- feigh, Gidleigh, Chagibrd, North Bovey, Manaton, Widdecombc, Holne, Buckfastleigh, Dean Prior, South Brent, Shaugh Prior, Meuvy, Sheepstor, Walkhampton, Snmpibrd Spiney, Whitchurch, Cudliptown (in Tavistock), Taverton ty thing, Peter Tavy, Lydford, Bridestow, Sourton. The Venville tenures seem to have originally grown out of tres- passes on the Forest. By the survey of 35 Edward I., among the proceeds of the Forest arc included 4/. 10s. for fines of the villagers, and pasturage of cattle. " In 17 Elte. an account was taken of the fines which had then grown to be fixed rents, and they amounted to 41. lis. 4\d. They arc payable at the Court Baron, held by the iV put v-stcward of the Forest, originally at Lydford Castle, but since it* being ruinous, at Prince Town, Dartmoor, where homage-jurors are sworn in, surrenders taken, and grants made to the free and customary tenants."* The Forest is divided into four quarters, — east, west, north, and south, in each of which except the western is a pound for stray cattle. There arc some curious remains of feudal customs in the service, wliieh \ ille men above mentioned render to the Prince of Wales as the Forest, and by virtue of which they hold in venville, under !lv. As tenants of the Prince they arc liable to the service of I he Moor, for trespasses in the Forest, once yearly in each quar- ter, (with an additional one in each quarter for colts), after receiving through the Forest Reeve from the Deputy-auditor, who fixes u ! time, which is somewhere between New and Old Midsummer Day.f They also do suit and homage at the Prince's courts, and are required to present all defaults in the Forest and its purlieus. Their privileges, on the other hand, are pasturage on the Moor, at a fixed rate, — " a right to take away any thing off the Forest that may do them good, except vert; and also to fish in all waters, and to dig turf in any 6 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. place." They are further exempt from tollage in all fairs and markets throughout England, except London, Totness, and Barnstaple ; and from attachment by any officer except for the yearly rent of four-pence at Michaelmas and Christmas."* The drifts at which the Venville men are required to assist, are for the purpose of ascertaining what stock is within the bounds, in order that the Forest may not be trespassed on by unlicensed cattle. The bounds of the Royal Forest, and the adjacent natural Commons and Moorlands, comprehend the district FEATURES. , . _ „ _ , . . * which forms the subject of the present account, under the general name of Dartmoor, so called, probably, from one of the principal of those numerous streams, of which it is the prolific parent. The whole of this large tract of land, rises conspicuously above the surrounding country. Its appearance is singularly char- acteristic and picturesque, on whatever side it may be approached from the adjacent lowlands. The bard of Dartmoor, with the eye of an accurate observer, and with the feeling of a genuine poet, describes as one of its prominent characteristics, the belt Of hills, mysterious, shadowy, by which it is encircled, as with a natural rampart, whilst it is moated by deep valleys, which wind around its base, and are replenished by streams, pouring down from the heights in every direction. This primaeval circumvallation comprehends within its stupen- dous inclosure, an elevated table land, which is not strictly a plain, but a series of hemispherical swellings or undulations, gradually overtopping each other, and here and there interrupted by deep depressions, yet without forming what may be properly called distinct mountains. " To a person standing on some lofty point of the Moor, it wears the appearance of an irregular broken waste, which may best be compared to the long rolling waves of a tempestuous ocean, fixed into solidity by some instantaneous and powerful impulse." It is thus with much graphic accuracy, the author of the Notes to Carrington's Dartmoor, paraphrases Gilpin's compendious description of the Moor- land district of Devon, who says, " Dartmoor spreads like the ocean * Preface to Carringtoris Dartmoor, NATURAL FEATURES. 7 after a storm heaving in large swells."* Even at a distance it wears this billowy aspect, which in every zone, according to Humboldt, is the characteristic of primitive chains. Mr. John Prideaux, an eminent member of the Plymouth Institution, in a paper published in the Transactions of that Society, faithfully sketches the geological features of the southern quarter of the Moor, which, as he justly remarks, " will apply to the whole." It is entirely mountainous, the highest hills being on the borders, where some of them attain the height of nearly 2000 feet.f The valleys run in various directions, but have a tendency upon the whole to the north and south line. The hills rise often steep, sometimes precipi- tous, — their sides clothed with long grass, except where rushes or moss indicate subjacent bogs ; and often strewed with loose blocks of granite, from fifty or more tons, down to the size of a flag-stone. A crag, called a Tar, usually projects at the summit of the hill, having a very striking appearance of stratification; the fissures being some- times horizontal, more commonly a little inclined. This stratified character is not less general in the quarries, where, although there are none of those marked divisions, indicative of intermissions, in the original depositions of the rock, the stone always comes out in beds. The dip is different in different hills, but seems to have a prevailing tendency towards east and south.J De la Beche more concisely describes Dartmoor as " an elevated mass of land, of an irregular form, broken into numerous minor hills, many crowned by groups of picturesque rocks, provincially termed tors ; § and for the most part presenting a wild mixture of heath, bog, rocks, and rapid streams." • Carrington's Dartmoor Notes. f Cosdon Beacon, 1792 feet above the sea level, was generally considered the highest point on Dartmoor until De la Beche published his Report on the Geology of Cornwall, Devon, and West Somerset, wherein he estimates Yes Tor at 2050 feet, and Amicombe Hill at 2000. Transactions Plym. Inst. 1830, p. 20. Like most other provincial terms, tor is a relic of the antient language of the country, preserved in the vernacular of the common people. It is found in both dialects of the antient British tongues : Cornish tor, Welsh twr, as well as in Ir. Gael tor — a tower, heap, or pile. In addition to these it is traced by the learned Bosworth (Anglo- Sax. Diet, in voc) to the Dutch toren, Old German turre turen, Danish taarn (which is almost Devonian, as our moormen pronounce the word tar, and not tor) Swedish torn, Ac. So that it is found in all the cognate Teutonic dialects, as well as in the Celtic; to which, however, Lye traces its primary derivation. " Originem habct in lingua Celtka f 8 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Such arc the general features of this singular district, which from its stern and frowning aspect, as viewed from the surrounding lowlands, and as contrasted with their smiling pleasantness, has been long branded by traditional prejudice with an ill name. From gene- ration to generation it has been proverbial as the chosen spot where bleak skies and brooding storms maintain undisputed and undisturbed their antient solitary reign, causing Dartmoor to be regarded through the entire neighbourhood, as the very fatherland* of the whole family of rains, from a mist to a waterspout. Its lofty tors may often be discerned glittering with an Alpine scapular of snow, amidst surrounding verdure, and frequently when Spring is smiling among the coombs of the South Hams, " Winter lingers, and chills the lap of May" along the bleak expanse of the Moor. This proverbial barrenness of soil, and inclemency of climate may account for the slight and cursory notice which historians and topo- graphers have thought fit to bestow upon the great Moorland district of Devonshire. Even the indefatigable Risdon contents himself (and appears to think he has satisfied all reasonable inquirers thereby) with enumerating " three remarkable things" f within the precincts of Dartmoor ; and from his time to the present day, the opinion seems to have generally prevailed, that a tract so wild and barren could afford little to encourage research into its past history, or to repay investi- gation into its present condition. But wild as it is, it is not " all barren." The native rudeness and untamed simplicity of these upland solitudes, become subjects of the deepest interest to those who find pleasure in contemplating nature in her sterner moods and more austere aspects ; while they secure to the qua mons dicebatur Thor; quae Syria ot Chaldeis efferebatur Thur. Radiccm hujus conserrant Cambri in vcrbo dwyre surgere, etc. Inde ctiam nomina montium et mon- ticolarum apud rarias gentes. Ex . gr. Dyr. Atlas lingua Mauritania, Taurus mons Asias. Tauri montes Sarmati©. Taurini gentes Alpine. Turinum caput Pedemontii, Ac. Thuringi Tel Toringi montani, monticolae. * Nimborum patria. Virgil. f In this forest are three remarkable things; the first is a high rock called Crock cm Torr, where the parliament for stannary courts is kept. * * * The second is Childe of Plymstock's tomb. • * The third is some acres of wood and trees that are a fathom about, and yet no taller than a man may touch the top with his hand, which is called Wiatman's Wood. Survey of Devon, p. 223. NATURAL FEATURES. 9 antiquary, means of investigating the earliest history of the island, which he would vainly seek in more favoured districts, where culti- vation has obliterated the venerable memorials of primitive times. Finding among the wild uplands of Devon the most unquestion- able vestiges of a period of our history, of which so little that is authentic has come down to us, we are scarcely disposed to join in the lament which the sterility of Dartmoor has called forth. As the guardians of many an antique memorial, which in more accessible and attractive spots, would have long since experienced a fate — unhap- pily but too common — the tors and wilds of the antient Forest of the West find favour in the sight of those who feel that other wants besides those of the body, are legitimate objects of the consideration of an intellectual, not to say, an immortal being. And without any affected or morbid deprecation of the peaceful triumphs of the plough- share,* nay, with the sincerest wish that every acre of waste, which can be made to bring forth " green herb for the service of man," may be reclaimed; — until that period arrives, one may be pardoned for regarding with pleasure the wilds of Dartmoor in their primitive state, and may be permitted to rejoice that there are myriads of acres equally unproductive, and far less picturesque, which may justly be required to be subjected to the dominion of agriculture, before their " free and unhous'd condition is put in circumscription and confine." That there are tracts on the moor, which may be cultivated with success, I do not question for one moment ; and that much credit is due to those enterprising individuals, who at this time are engaged in extensive, and to a very encouraging degree, successful attempts to reclaim considerable portions of the waste, I am free to admit. All honour to the cultivator " who makes two blades of grass grow where one only grew before," — and if it should really come to a question of the production of a sufficient quantity of food for the teeming popula- tion of a nation, all other considerations must give way, just as in seasons of great public peril, — a siege or an invasion — the monuments of antiquity, the " gorgeous palaces," and even the " solemn temples" would be levelled rather than that they should stand to impede the defenders, or to advantage the enemy. But that which would be praiseworthy patriotism in such an extreme case, would, in a less * Pacantur vomere sylvse. — Hoa. C 10 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. manifest emergency, be reckless spoliation — such as has been too often perpetrated upon the venerable relics of Dartmoor, without the pre- tence of a plea of the urgent necessities of the community. One may contemplate with satisfaction such judicious and well-planned efforts as may be seen in the vale of Cowsick near Two Bridges ; but it is melancholy to witness the*abortive attempts that have been sometimes made on the bleak hill-side, where, after a Rock-pillar has been demolished for a gate-post, and a Cromlech overthrown for a foot- bridge, or a Kistvaen destroyed for a New-take wall, the injudicious effort has been abandoned as hopeless, when irreparable mischief has been done. Even Carrington's honeyed strains fail in inducing us to sympathize with his satisfaction, when exercising the powers of poetic vaticination, " rapt into future times :" he views with delight The dauntless grasp Of Industry, assail yon mighty Tors Of the dread wilderness ; nor shall we, like him, kindle with misplaced indignation, and demand — Shalt thou alone Dartmoor ! in this fair land, where all beside Is life and beauty, sleep the sleep of death. And shame the map of England ? Rather would we subscribe to the opinion expressed by a contem- porary writer,* who, in speaking of the present state of the moor, observes, " Perhaps it serves as it is, the gracious purposes of Provi- dence." On this subject alone, I cannot applaud the sentiments of the honoured bard of Dartmoor, as much as admire the attractive forms in which he has embodied them, — here our mountain minstrel seems to have struck the only jarring chord, in the whole compass of the wild harp of the desert. Those who have climbed the bleak summits of Dartmoor, and threaded the granite labyrinths which perplex their acclivities, must be persuaded that profitable agricultural efforts must be confined to the lower grounds, and every attempt to carry cultivation up to the rugged eminences of the tors can only issue in loss and disappointment. Besides, who will venture to affirm, if Dartmoor could be ploughed to its very crest, and a scanty and precarious crop reaped from corn * Blackwood '8 Magazine, 1833, Vol. xxxiii. 691. NATURAL FEATURES. 11 patches 2000 feet above the sea level, that there would be no counter- balance to the dearly-bought benefit. How much of health is now wafted from the mountain's brow over the circumjacent towns and villages. How much of beauty and refreshment is poured down from the perennial fountains of the misty moor upon the smiling lowlands of the South Hams, — of West and Central Devon. Carrington appro- priately describes Dartmoor as the " source of half the beauty of Devon's austral meads," and while he mourns over its native barren- ness, justly celebrates its importance to the whole surrounding region, in the bountiful economy of Him who " sendcth His springs into the rivers which run among the hills." For other fields Thy bounty flows eternal. From thy sides Devonia's rivers flow ; a thousand brooks Roll o'er thy rugged slopes ; 'tis but to cheer Yon Austral meads unrivall'd, fair, as aught That bards have sung, or fancy has conceiv'd, 'Mid all her rich imaginings. Would the same fertility and the same loveliness then be pro- duced, if there were no condensing apparatus set up in Nature's won- drous laboratory, amidst the wilds of Dartmoor 1* The primal paradise of Eden was not perfect without the " river which went out to water the garden, and was thence parted into four heads."t Would Devon challenge the envied designation of the garden of England, if the Urn of Cranmere were broken and dry ? Where would be the character- istic amenities of the Land of Promise — -those striking features which mark Devonshire as tho*Canaan of the West — " a good land, — a land of brooks of water — of fountains that spring out of valleys and hills — a land of wheat, and barley, of milk and honey — a land whose stones are iron, and out of whose hills thou mayest dig brass ;"$ where, but for Dartmoor, to which must be attributed mainly, the fact that this inspired description may be applied to Devon, without figure, accommodation, or vain glory. Since then, the poet traces so much of the beauty of the lowlands to the rugged steeps of the central wilder- ness, and philosophers regard Dartmoor as the source of much of the • It is not a little satisfactory to find that these views of the meteorological importance of Dartmoor, are countenanced by practical men of high scientific reputation, and kwal knowledge. t Gbn. ii. 10. J Deut. viii. 7, 8, 9. 12 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. fertility of the surrounding region, the admirers of its wild simplicity may be pardoned for hoping that other means may be found for rendering its wide expanse productive, without impairing its solitary grandeur, or destroying its venerable memorials of aboriginal antiquity. Nor is this hope visionary. I rejoice to find that it is the delibe- rate opinion of one of the most enterprising of the modern experimen- talists* on Dartmoor, that the pasturing of cattle on the uplands, connected with judicious cultivation in more sheltered spots, is likely to be the most profitable husbandry, upon the whole, and best adapted to the circumstances of the soil and climate. And it is curious to observe that this method, if carried into effect, will probably be little more than a recurrence to the practice of our Celtic forefathers some twenty centuries ago, as I shall have occasion to show, when treating of those relics of antiquity which form the principal subject of this essay. Rich in Celtic remains, Dartmoor also, in later times, as an antient stannary district and a Royal Forest, urges many claims to our atten- tion — whilst in its present state, as a field of scientific research, a region of picturesque and romantic scenery, and an asylum of old-world customs and language, it can scarcely fail to excite the interest, not only of those whom local partialities might be supposed to influence, but of all others who hold with the great English moralist, that, "whatever withdraws us from the power of the senses, — whatever makes the past, the distant, and the future, predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings." To an object so important, the wild uplands of Dartmoor are calculated to minister, and that in no ordinary degree. Who with a particle of sensibility could climb its tor-crowned steeps, traverse its rock-strewn ravines, or penetrate its trackless morasses, without an irresistible impression that every object around belongs to a period of unrecorded antiquity ? And who, when thus surrounded by the silent yet eloquent memorials of the mysterious past, will not acknowledge their influence in " withdrawing him from the power of the senses," and in carrying forward his thoughts to the still more mysterious future ? He wanders in a desert encircled with primaeval mountains, and beholds nature piling all around in fantastic and mimic masonry, huge masses of granite, as if to mock the mightiest efforts of human art. * Mr. G. Frean, of Plymouth. NATURAL FEATURES. 13 Vast .ind gloomy castles appear to frown defiance from the beetling crags around. But no mortal hand ever laid their adamantine founda- ■ reared their dizzy towers; Nature is the engineer that furtificd the heights, thousands of years ago — her's are the massive walls — her's the mighty bastions — her's the granite glacis scarped down to the roaring torrent below — her's the hand that reared those stupendous citadels which fable might have garrisoned with demigods, and beleaguered with Titans; whilst in the recumbent mas3 that guards the approach, imagination, with scarcely an effort, might discern an archetype of the mystic Sphynx* in kindred porphyry, of proportions far more colossal, and of date far more antient, than that which still looks forth in serene and lonely grandeur, over the sands of the Mcmphian desert. There arc numerous tracts of the moor, where, around the whole expanse, the eye cannot light upon a single feature that is not pristine, intact, and natural. The entire scene in spots, such as that beyond Tavy-IIead, at the foot of Furtor, is of this untamed and primaeval character. Not a trace of man's presence or occupancy is to be Even the half-wild cattle which range the other parts of the moor at pleasure, seem to shun the swampy steppes of the central wilderness. It is only em the spot that the graphic accuracy and poetic beauty of Carrington's descriptions can be appreciated, when with master hand, he sketches the characteristic features of a scene, which seems to transport you in a moment from the richly cultivated and thickly peopled provinces of England, to some unexplored and doaerl tract, in the remotest regions of the globe: Pevonia's dreary Alps ! and now I feel The influence of thai impressive calm, That rests upon them. Nothing that has life Is visible : no solitary flock At wide will, ranging through the silent moors, Breaks the deep-fell monotony; and all Is motionless, save where the giant shades Flung by the passing cloud, glide slowly o'er The grey and gloomy wild. The desert expanse has come down lo us rude and inviolate from primeval times. The tors pile their fantastic masses against the sky, • In the road from Two-Bridgea (o Tavistock, Dr Berger and Iiis friend Mr. Necket : ones with the resemblance of a granite rock to the Egyptian Spliyni, i mutilated state.— Cahrhiqtos's Dartmoor, Notes, p. 20ti. 14 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. as they first " frowned in the uncertain dawn of time," — the granite wrecks of some original convulsion still lie scattered " in most admired disorder." The roar of " many an antient river," foaming along its rock-bound channel breaks upon the still silence of the waste, as it did hundreds of ages ago. All bears the impress of unaltered duration and undisturbed solitude. And if, from a period whose chronology reaches far beyond the epochs of cycles, lustrums, and olympiads, we come down to the sera of monumental antiquity, all is still antique, mysterious, and venerable. The simple and time-worn memorials of unchronicled ages rear their hoary forms amidst the sombre solitudes of the moor. The mossy cairn, surmounted by its primitive unwrought pillar, carries the thoughts back to a period, which outdates the Pyramids and Babylon, — a period when the Mesopotamian patriarchs erected their monu- mental column as the witness and memorial of the earliest treaties in the history of man. The columnar masses which mark out the sacred inclosure of those rude hypaethral temples, in which our Pagan forefathers worshipped, stand in rough and native simplicity, untouched by the workman's tool. Walls, which fortified the towns of the aboriginal inhabitants, and bridges which spanned the swollen torrents of the desert, yet remain, of ruder and more primitive construction, than the Cyclopean architecture of far-famed Mycenae. And desolate as Dartmoor is, — with thousands of acres now destitute even of a turf-cutter's cabin, considerable vestiges of antient dwellings may still be traced in various parts of the Forest and its precincts — E'en here Man, rude untutor'd man, has liv'd, and left Rude traces of existence. — Carrington. ABORIGINAL And we shall observe that these traces are eminently characteristic of the people, whom we conclude from INHABITANTS. - A . /.!_•/ \ \ , i • , i. the testimony of history to have been the inhabitants of this part of the island, many centuries before the arrival of Julius Caesar in Britain. To that accurate observer and faithful Commentator on what he saw, we are indebted for a brief but important notice of the inhabitants of the country he invaded. Britannia pars interior ab iis incolitur, quos natos in insula ipsa memoria proditum dicunt : maritima pars ab iis, qui prcecUe ac belli inferendi -causa ex Bdgis transierant / et beUo iUato, ibi remanserunt, atque agros colere Alumn.1 V\1. INHABITANT! 15 ■■■'.* How strikingly docs this prove that man is the same in every age ; and that similar circumstances issue in the same results ! More than two thousand years ago the Belgian adventurers, having Droned the Channel, and landed on the coasts of Britain, were enabled, doubtless by the power of numbers, or superior civilization, to make good their footing along the maritime parts, and to drive back the i dwellers to the less inviting, but more secure districts of the interior, just as the English settlers and their transatlantic descendants established themselves on the co'tsts of America, and thrust back the .1 Red men into the forests and savannahs of the North continent. Thus, before the lloman period of our history, we find two distinct classes, perhaps two distinct races of inhabitants, on the southern coast of England ; the origin of one, not doubtful, as they were universally acknowledged to have passed over from the country of the Belga;, and to have settled in those maritime tracts, which lay opposite to the coast of Gaul, and in parts of which, (Hampshire) their name long remained, and marked an important division of the country. Whence the earlier settlers, who were supposed to have been the aboriginal inhabitants of the island, oone, does not appeal*, Neither Cecsar nor any of the classical writers give the least information on a subject, which has caused no little controversy among antiquaries, but which will probably remain ■Bong the many unsolved problems of the origin of nations. Whit- Inker tli'. learned historian of Manchester, maintains that Britain was peopled from Gaul about one thousand years before the Christian •era, and that the Belgse, whom Casar mentions, followed more than &ix hundred years after.f I am not aware whether there is any better authority for this, than Richard of Cirencester, a chronicler of the middle ages, who records under the date, Anno Mundi M.M.M. Circa A«c tempora cullam et habitatam primttm, Britanniam arbitnuttur nonttulli, cum iUam sahitarent Greeri, Phwnices que mercaloree. If Richard be the only voucher for this exposition, as it appears to be, of • The interior of Britain is inhabited by people who are reported by tradition to "I! in the island; the maritime parts are possessed by inradcrs who [ o*»r from the country of the Betpr, allured by the hope of booty, and having made upon the Britons, established themselves in tlie country, and began to cultivate the .-Cult, Bed. Gall. l,b. v. 10. + In considering the question of the aboriginal population of our island, it is i remark the opinion of an observer so nccuratc, and a reasoner so judicious, «i Sir K. C. Hoare, Hie celebrated Wiltshire tu-tinuary, on Hie icra of Uic erection 16 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Caesar's text, those who are acquainted with the doubts which have been raised as to the sources of the monk's information, without neglecting his testimony altogether, will not be inclined to overrate its importance. Polwhele, our western antiquary, contends that the aborigines men- tioned by Csesar did not come from Gaul, but that they arrived by sea from the eastern parts of Asia* (Armenia as he supposes), and voyaging by the straits of Gibraltar, at length reached the westernmost coasts of Britain. Having settled in Cornwall and Devonshire, in after times, they were visited in succession by Phoenician and Greek traders, who made the distant and perilous voyage in search of tin, for which metal the Cassiterides were already famous, at this early period of history. In support of his favourite theory, he goes so far as to trace vestiges of these aboriginal settlers in the name of one of our Dartmoor rivers, and in that of a parish on its banks. Ermington is doubtless still generally pronounced Armeton by the common people, and this our enthusiastic antiquary regards as evidence that the Asiatic navigators might have debarked at the mouth of the Erme (Anne) in Bigbury bay, and named the country which was to be their future habitation, in memory of the land they had left. If they did so, their Danmonian descendants some three thousand years after, imitated their example, when they emigrated from the mouth of the Plym to an island in the Pacific, and founded a New Plymouth at the Antipodes. But the hypothesis of Asiatic colonization, rests on religion. far better support than this questionable etymology. The emigration of bodies of people in every age has been attended with one universally accompanying circumstance, — the importation of their religious opinions and rites into the country of their adoption. That there is a striking similarity between the religious opinions and sacred rites of the Druids, and those of the eastern nations, none acquainted with the testimony of antient authors on the subject will venture to question. From the undeniable of Stonelienge. He supposes that the inner circle was the work of the original Celts, and that the exterior trilithons were subsequently added by the Belgae, — Fide infra. • " The researches of the learned are daily adding to an accumulation of evidence which tends to prove that the aborigines of Britain sprang from the nations of the East ; that Druidism like the Brahminical superstition was but a modification of Arkite worship, and that we must look to a period long anterior to the dispersion of the Celtic tribes for the primeeval history of the British race." Davidson's British and Roman Remains near Axmintfer, p. 6. London, 1833. II evidence which Holy Writ affords, we know how popular and uni- versaUy prevalent was the worship of the heavenly bodies among the nations of the east, and with what frantic eagerness and perverse obstinacy, even the well-instructed Hebrews recurred again and again, in idolatrous practices, which the Holy One of Israel had expressly forbidden on the pain of his hottest displeasure, and had punished with the severest vengeance, times out of number. Still "they tempted and displeased the Most High God," and "burned incense unto Baal, to the sun, to the moon, and to the planets, and to all the host of heaven."* And this worship the Israelites derived from " the nations round about," for so early as the times of Job, it was the pardonable boast of that upright man, that he had not been carried away by the general prevalence of idolatry in the land of Uz ; his heart had not been enticed, nor his mouth kissed his hand, if he beheld the sun when it shined, or the moon walking in her brightness. t The Baal or Bel of the Canaanites and the Phoenicians, was evidently the same deity whom Diodorus describes as the object of worship in a northern island over against the Celtic of Gaul. They had a large grove and temple of a round form, to which the priests resorted to ring the praises of Apollo. J We have still etymological vestiges§ of the name of this oriental divinity, and remains of such circular temples yet in existence, among the wdds of Dartmoor. But whilst the Druids in the time of Ciesar, ministered to the popular propensities by ict toning the worship of idols, and, perhaps, the use of images, there are just reasons for the belief that these, with other practices, were the result of their intercourse with the Phoenicians, who seem also to have introduced the worship of their favorite goddess, Astarte, or Bali Sama, i.e., the queen of heaven.^ Their earlier and purer practice seems to have been much more nearly allied to the Sabrean • '.' Ki-.osi.iii. 5. t Jon *xxi. 26. 27. J Dion. Sic, book iii. f Botlui.-, the Cornish antiquary, asserts lhat the old British appellation of the Scilly Itlnndt was Sullch or 5yllch, signifying rocks consecrated to the sun.— Antiq. Corn- • [ l Her. Vernon Hnrcoiirt assorts that the Phoenicians introduced Ihe worship ofllaal, m 1'itv, fire lmnJnul yi'.ir. h fori; the Christian (era, among the aboriginal iiihabi- ■i hi* calls Moroonii, and whom lie describes as Arkites, -There (•» places," obaenes this author, " called MiieJi Tnrey, one in Ihe norih, the other in wralli -, and at both, not long before the Chrialian ssra, that is about the time when Arititet iceeived a strong reinforcement by a Scythian swarm from the norlh, called TiBUh d« Doinau, a buttle was fought between the Bels.Tr, the worshippers of Bel or e side, and the Danans, i.e. the Danai, tin: Dionusui, the Arkitrs, and the Deucdedonian, Diluvian tribes on the other."— Dact. Deluge, vol. i. 487. PERAMBULATION OF UARTMOOB. creed — the worship of the Sun under the form of fire — and abhorrence of every kind of image of the invisible God. They also appear to have scrupulously abstained from using any tool in the construction of their temples and altars, — a practice utterly unknown to the classical antients, and which seems again to point to an eastern origin, ;ind even to a traditionary acquaintance with the express ordinance of the Almighty, for the guidance of the Israelites in this particular (Ex. xx. , 25). But the Druids had their hill altars, — and sacred groves, — in exact correspondence again, with those idolatrous practices of the east with which Holy Writ has made us familiar ; — and what is worthy of remark, the favourite tree with the primitive British priesthood, for this purpose, was the oak, the very tree which is specified by the prophet Isaiah as connected with the worst atrocities of paganism, in the practice of his idolatrous countrymen, whom he accuses of " inflaming themselves with idols among the oaks (margin), slaying the children in the valleys under the cliffs of the rocks" (Is. lvii. 5). The Druids, like the Chaldteans, cultivated the science of astronomy (doubtless in connection with astrology), and were great observer* of the motions of the heavenly bodies." But the most remarkable point of similarity is the belief in the transmigration of souls, which the Druids are believed to have held in common with the Gymnoso- phists of antient India. Taliessin the Welsh bard, affirms that he had experienced in his own person the changes of the raetempaychom ; " I have died, I have revived ; a second time was I formed, — I liave been a blue salmon ; I have been a dog ; I have been a stag ; I have been a roebuck on the mountains; I have been a cock ; I bavi Acdd ; returning to my former state, I am now Taliessin. "t All these facts* may fairly be brought to support the hypothesis of an oriental colonization of the south western parts of England previously to the immigration of the Belga? from Gaul, B. C. 850.§ It may however be objected that although an earber peopling of Britain than tliis might have taken place, it does not thence necessarily follow that the settlers might not have crossed the narrow seas from the continent, at » ■ Hi term munclique magniluilinem el foimum mollis cCBli «c Bidcnuo. ac quod Di n&Btsdst profitMlor^- P«»r. Max*, lib. ii. e, 2. t Da*ibs'i Mythology of the Druids, p. 573. I Pliny was evidently muck will the tame similarity. Britannia hodieqne earn attonile celebrat Unlit ceiemoniis, ut de.lisse Pawia tideri Dossil.— Fmk. lib. xxx- } Diogenes Laerliua sayi ibe Druids aud GymnoMpliiati of India were similar.— Proem. 4, b, at. H. Sitpk. 1594. similar,— RELIGION. 19 NttOtel period, for instance, A.M. 3000, as Whlttaker supposes. To this it is answered, that few, if any, traces of similar religious doctrines are observable across the continent, in a direction which a wave of popu- lation from the east, would have taken, had it reached the shores of Britain, in one flow, or by successive undulations. Druidism had taken root among the German nations, and in Gaul, where it flourished in the latter times of the Roman republic, it was not indigenous. Ca?sar expressly records that the Druidical discipline was discovered in Britain, and transmitted thence to Gaul * The Rev. V. Harcourt, in his elaborate and valuable researches into the vestiges of the Scrip- ture doctrine of the Noachic deluge among the heathen nations of antiquity, traces them in their traditions, mythology, and worship, as well as in the etymology of the names of persons and places. He adduces a mass of remarkable testimony, to prove that the Arkite worship (which he believes Druidism to have been, in its purer and more antient form) prevailed from India and China in the cast, to Britain in the west. Iu proceeding with an account of the existing monumental relics of Dartmoor, it will be curious to remark in how many particulars they appear to bear out the theory which this learned author has brought forward- Without therefore attempting now to pursue further the inquiry, how far his opinions support the hypothe- sis of oriental colonization, suffice it for the present purpose to observe, that an aboriginal people, whose manners and religion indicate an Asiatic origin, in remote times occupied the south western peninsula of England, — the regions known to the Romans by the name of Danmonium or Dunmonium, and included with the Scilly Isles, in the loose geography of the Greeks, under the general name Cassiterides. Here then "the 6erce Danmonii dwelt," from the times of the Cffisars, np to a period lost in the obscurity of unrecorded antiquity, and here, as a modern author justly observes, our British ancestors cut off from all intimate intercourse with the civilized world, partly by then- remoteness, and partly by their national character, retained their primitive idolatry, long after it had yielded in the neighbouring countries, to the polytheistic corruptions of Greece and Egypt.f Such is the light which, when collected, the few scattered rays * Discipline in Britannia repcrta, atque iu Gilliam Iranalata c Cju*n BtU. Gall. lib. vL 13. t Rev. J. B. Deisb. SO PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. of recorded truth and just inference cast upon the obscure page of aboriginal British history. We shall now proceed monumental to m g^mi^^a of the monumental relics, still relics. . ' existing on Dartmoor, and observe how strikingly they illustrate the manners of the people and period to which we have ventured to assign them, and how exactly they correspond with the testimony of history, on this interesting subject. Of the Druidical antiquities of Dartmoor, none is more con- spicuous than their circular shrines or temples. circular -^y e k ave no exam pi e approaching either in vastness TEMPLE, i - . c « t OB or extent, to the massive proportions of Stonehenge, sacred circle, but there are not wanting specimens equally decisive in character, although inferior in magnitude. The Sacred Circle was evidently a rude patriarchal temple* such as the feelings of the people and the genius of their religion demanded, and for the construction of which, the region supplied ample and appro- priate materials. The accidents of nature have more to do with the decision of matters of this kind, than we are usually free to allow. The colossal architecture of Egypt had its birth in the granite quarries of that peculiar country ; the bituminous plains of Babylon suggested the employment of brick in the construction of the vast edifices of that " lady of kingdoms." The granite tors of Cornwall and Devon, in like manner, furnished materials for the apparatus of Druidical worship, abundant in supply and suitable in form and quality — as to form, sublime from their very simplicity and vastness; and as to durability, imperishable as the hills from which they were taken, rude and untouched by the workman's tool, as when dislodged by some primaeval convulsion of nature from their original position. This rude simplicity and complete absence of all preparation in the materials of the sacred circle, mark the high antiquity of the Dartmoor specimens, and in this respect invest them with an interest superior to the majestic, but artificial trilithons of Stonehenge. The ingenious theory adopted by Sir R. C. Hoare appears to be most accurate and just ; being fortified by such authority, it will scarcely be disputed, and will lead to some curious and interesting conclusions. * " That they (acil. sacred circles) were erected for the double purposes of religions and civil assemblies, may be admitted without controversy. — Sir R. C. Hoarb, Ant. WiU$ t vol. ii. 118.— Lond. 1812. MONUMENTAL RELICS. This laborious antiquary sanctions the opinion that the inner circle at Stnnehengc, was the nidc primitive temple of the Celtic tribes, but that the grand peristyle of trilithons, with its mortised imposts, was added by the Belgce after they had driven the Celts from their former possessions. Since, then, we have no approaches to the trilithon structure in our existing specimens of the columnar circle, we may infer that the Belgaj were unable to penetrate into the stronger coun- try of the Danmonian Britons, and that here they preserved their religion and sacred fabrics, free from Belgic innovation. Although the Druids inculcated the opinion that the Deity regarded not the worship which was offered to him in temples whose canopy was less sublime and comprehensive than the boundless expanse of heaven, they held it indispensable that certain spots should be set apart and dedicated to his peculiar service ; and so profound was the respect, and so unhesitating the obedience, with which the mandates of this extraordinary priesthood were regarded, that they appear to have had nothing more to effect for the preservation of these saoctuaries from violation, than to mark their limits by some well iliitined boundary — a boundary which would denote the extent of the sacred area, without obstructing the view of the rites and ceremonies therein performed. This object, which the Hellenic nations accom- plished by celebrating their sacred rites, in front of their temples and beneath their porticoes, the Druids attained, by performing them within a circle* formed of unwrought columnar masses, rude from the neighbouring tor. All the Druidical temples were hypoethral, — perfectly open to the sky, — and although the mighty columns of Stonelienge are connec- ted by horizontal imposts, in no instance do there appear the least ves- tiges of any provision for a roof. On Dartmoor, the stones which form the circle, are for the most part insufficient in height for any such purpose, nor have the uprights ever been furnished with imposts ; the size of the area would also have precluded any attempt at covering it with a roof, even if the principles of their religion had not denounced any idea of this kind. Our Danmonian sacred inclosures are therefore • " Stone circles occur at Malabar and the island of Tinisn in the Pacific Ocean." Stnbo Bays that the Persians " hid great inclosures called Pyrajtliia, in the middle uf which waa an oltat, called also Pyrirtliion." Foibroke, ™ho notes tliia, asks, "were these none circle) V—Sncyclop. of Anlig. ii. p. 922. 4io.— Load. 1B25. 22 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. of the same description as the fine Druidical temple at Abury in Wiltshire, as to the size, form, and character of the stones of which they are constructed, and the avenues with which they are connected : those avenues are held by some antiquaries to be decisive, that the circles with which they are connected, are Dracontia — temples in which serpent-worship was celebrated. In the great Dracontium at Carnac in Brittany, which the Rev. J. B. Deane examined and described with so much learned accuracy, he notices the serpentine form in the avenues, " A spectator standing upon one of the cromlech hills round which the serpent sweeps, cannot but be struck with the evidence of design which appears in the construction of these avenues.'** Here the ophite character of the temple is manifest, but as I have been unable to detect any traces of a serpentine form, beyond a very slight deviation from a direct line, in the Danmonian avenues, I should not be disposed to class the Dartmoor temples with the Dracontia, as some antiquaries have done. That the Druids were far from exempt from those feelings of veneration for the serpent, which prevailed so extensively in almost all the forms of idolatry, whatever might have been symbolized thereby, is yet sufficiently evident, from the know- ledge we have of their peculiar rites and ceremonies.f The circular form has been regarded as indicating the solar worship, but when found, as is often the case, in connection with the avenue, the orbicular part is held to represent the head of the serpent. But Mr. Harcourt's theory imparts new interest to the whole subject. His learned researches have led him to the conclusion that the wor- ship of the serpent is to be traced to a traditionary recollection of the universal deluge, which was symbolized by an enormous water-serpent coiled around the globe, — that this corrupted form of Arkite worship was in many respects identical with Druidism, and that the attempts to introduce the Solar, instead of the Aquatic idolatry, frequently gave rise to fierce controversies, and bloody conflicts, between the priests of the respective rituals, and their partizans. If the conclu- sions of the learned author are just, may not vestiges of these aboriginal polemics still be discernible in our monumental relics, and * Rev. J. B. Dbanb, p. 370. t Our British ancestors, remarks the Rev. J. B. Deane, were not only worshippers of the Solar deity, symbolized by the serpent, but held the serpent, independently of his relation to the sun, in peculiar veneration. MONUMENTAL RELICS. 23 indications of the struggle between ophiolatry and solar worship, be sometimes detected in the same structure. We have already noticed that a knowledge of the great Scripture fact of the universal deluge, may be somewhat indistinctly traced in these remarkable monuments of our remote ancestors; but if Mr. llarcourt is justified in his conclusion, that Diodorus Siculus des- cribes Draidical circles, when he records that certain votive memo- rials in the island of Samothrace, were raised by the inhabitants, in grateful remembrance of escape from a flood, an additional argument is afforded in favour of this opinion. These temples or inclosures, approach more or less closely to the circular form. They arc of various dimensions, and constructed of granite blocks of irregular shape, and by no means uniform in size. Taking a general view of monuments of this class in our island, some antiquaries have fixed the number of stones, as ranging from twelve to twenty-seven ; it is stated also, that they are more frequently found of the former number, than any other. This number is still preserved in the inner circle at Abury- This conjecture, however, seems to be much at variance with conclusions drawn from our examination of Dartmoor specimens. In some instances we found the number twenty- seven, but we also observed circles consisting of twenty-five, fifteen, twelve, eleven, and even ten; the height of the stones above the surface, ranging from seven feet and a half, to eighteen inches. In the latter cases they have probably been mutilated. The circumfe- rence varies from thirty-six feet to three hundred and sixty, which is the size of the Grey Wethers, below Sittaford Tor, the largest, it is believed, in Devonshire. The columnar, or sacred circle,* sometimes has a Cairn or Kist- raen within its inclosure — sometimes, as at Merivale and Longstone, it is found in connection with avenues ; — at Grey Wethers, there are two circles, whose circumferences almost touch each other, — and one example has been observed, enclosing two concentric circles. The columnar inclosure designed for religious purposes,t is at once clearly * Mr. Harcourt explains llifi celebrated story of Gyces' msipic ring, by referring it to DniidUra. " The ring was a Druid's circle, and he disappeared, by hiding himself in Ike myiUc cell, from which he could see without being seen."— Doct. Dtluge, «ol. i. 473. t As lo other circles, some particulars are especially worth notice, m . that Druids of lie ardt and bards uf the inclosure, arc mentioned in antienl British poems.— Ant. Willi. nL ii. \rl. 24 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. distinguishable from the hut-circles or foundations of ruined dwellings, so numerous on the moor. The stones, of which the former are composed, are in all cases set up at intervals of greater or less extent ; whereas the latter clearly indicate a totally different purpose, the stones being set as closely together, as their rugged and unwrought form would permit. These obvious characteristics will therefore mark with sufficient distinctness, the purposes for which these rude structures were exclu- sively appropriated to religious rites — and it may be concluded, that, even when used for secular purposes, the assemblies would be con- gregated within the sacred precincts, only on grave occasions, and under the solemn sanctions of religion, just as the Roman senators held their sittings in the temples of the gods. The notion of columnar circles forming places of assembly, for judicial, or other grave purposes of a secular character, identifies also these relics with some of the most venerable and interesting records of early Hebrew history. We are forcibly reminded of the twelve stones, taken at the command of Joshua, out of the channel of Jordan, and erected in Gilgal — the very name intimating the circular arrange- ment ; for Gilgal means any thing round or spherical. And when we bear in mind that Gilgal was one of the principal places where Samuel judged Israel — in his circuits, as ruler of the land — we shall not only be led to the conclusion, that amidst the wilds of Dartmoor, may be found a veritable counterpart of one of the primitive courts of Hebrew judicature, but shall also infer additional proof of aborigi- nal oriental colonization. Those curious relics of the aboriginal period of our history, the Stone Avenues had attracted little notice, and in- stone avenue, ^ ee( j j^ b een scarcely mentioned by our local parallelithon to P°g ra P ners or antiquaries, before our examina- tion of those near Merivale bridge, in the year 1827. Folwhele, who, in the most systematic and elaborate manner, classifies and enumerates every remnant of Druidical antiquity, in Dartmoor, mentions the avenue only in an incidental and cursory manner, in his minute account of the Drewsteington cromlech, which, he says, " is placed on an elevated 6pot— overlooking a sacred way, and two rows of pillars,' which mark this processional" road of the Druids. Lysons, in his county history, makes no mention of any MONUMENTAL RELICS. 25 tiling of the kind, although the existence of tliis curious conformation of stones was well known to the inhabitants of Tavistock and the cighbourhood, under the popular name of the Plague Market. Under that designation, our attention was directed to the spot, i No sooner did we mount the slope, than Col. Hamilton Smith instantly detected this interesting and characteristic feature of aboriginal worship, and pronounced the rows of stones to be nothing less than avenues, con- structed for the performance of some solemn Arkite ceremonial — probably in connection with the river below, to which their direction evidently pointed. The hypothesis of the purpose for which these avenues were designed, is abundantly confirmed by the examination of similar parallel lines of erect stones in other parts of the moorland district, and by a comparison of the opinions of those antiquaries, who have described stone avenues of a similar character in other places.* On Dartmoor they occur, cither singly or in pairs, but always in connection with other aboriginal relics, and most commonly with the columnar Sacred inclosure. The following features may be also noted, as the result of an examination of the principal specimens to be found on Dartmoor. They are straight on the plain, and never serpentine, — one example is very slightly curvilinear for a short distance. The stones are from two to four feet high, — appear to have been chosen with a view to B degree of uniformity, — and arc placed at irregular distances, but generally about three feet and a half apart. The terminating blocks »re in most cases of larger size than the others, and the parallel lines stand about four feet and a half asunder. The general direction of the avenues, appears to be from one of the Sacred circles to a neighbour- ing stream, and in several instances there seems to be preference given to a leaning cast and west, Among the relics of Druidical antiquity, authors have enume- rated the Logan Stone and Rock Idol. Of the latter of these, Dartmoor boast many remarkable specimens. Moulded as they are, as Corrington soothly sings, Id to a thousand shapes Of beauty and of grandeur, few arc the tors which would not attract attention, and inspire awe, jniie »t Arebury, in Wiltshire, is ia immediate connection with it that place, and though longei, is uf precisely similar chancier. 26 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. if pointed out for the purposes of worship to an ignorant and super- stitious people. But there is no conclusive evi- rock idol, dence that such adoration was ever offered by our aboriginal forefathers, although Borlase has ven- tured to particularize and classify these stone deities. To give any accurate notice of objects of this class, would be scarcely less than to enumerate the principal tors on the moor ; or rather it would be impossible to discriminate, in a classification, in which the judgment would have far less exercise than the imagination. Some have thought, that a rock basin on any tor, or pile of rocks, is decisive of its mythological character. Polwhele, who is by no means over cautious in admitting the claims of various objects to Druidical honours, judiciously restrains his fancy in this particular, and truly enough observes, that "we are afraid to fix on a Druid-Idol, lest the neighbouring mass should have the same pretensions to adoration, and all the stones, upon the hills, and in the vallies, should start up into divinities."* Yet he thinks " the principal rocks on Dartmoor might have been British idols," and is inclined to concede to Blackstonef and Whitstone, near Moreton, the honour of canoni- zation. And when we gaze upon such a mass as Vixen Tor, grand and huge, as it towers above the vale of Walkham, or view such a singular pile as Bowerman's-Nose, on Heighen Down, we can scarcely err in concluding that if the Druids had their Bock Idols, these must have ranked high in their granite mythology. The Logan Stone seems to have formed an impor- wgks stone, tant and characteristic feature in the mystic appara- tus of Druidism, but there are only one or two specimens now known to exist in Devonshire, and even these have almost, if not entirely, lost the quality which originally gave them fame and distinction. The celebrated Drewsteignton Logan Stone might be repeatedly passed by, without exciting more curiosity or attention than any other huge granite mass, standing aloft in the bed of the river. And it is impossible to traverse the moor in any direction without observing many a similar rock which once might have been a Logan Stone, or might have] been easily made to hgg (vibrate) — so fantastical and singular are the positions in which such superincumbent masses are * Historical Views of Devonshire, p. 53. f Blackystone and Heltor, as they arc commonly called in the neighbourhood. MONUMENTAL RELICS. 27 continually found, balanced on another rock below, so nicely as to admit of the immense bulk being moved, by the application of no more force than the strength of a man's hand. Such curiously adjusted masses seem not to have been unknown to the antients. Pliny, observes Polwhele,* hath evidently the Logan Stone in view, when he tells us that at Harpasa, a town of Asia, was a rock of a wonderful nature, " Lay one finger on it and it will stir ; but thrust at it with your whole body and it will not move." But the most curious mention of the Logan by the antients, is that of Apollonius Bhodius ; from which it would appear that such rocking stones were sometimes artificial, and raised as funeral monuments, in connection too with tumuli or barrows. In sea-girt Tenos, he, the brothers slew, And o'er their graves in heapy hillocks threw The crumbling mould ; then with two columns crown 'd, Erected high, the death-devoted ground ; And one still moves, how marvellous the tale, With every motion of the northern gale ! Fawkes, Argonaut, b. iv. 1761. In Wales, such stones are called Maen Sigl, the Shaking Stone, a term equivalent to the Loggan or Logging Stone of Devon and Cornwall. Our vernacular probably still retains the word; and "a great logging thing," familiarly and graphically describes any large mass in vibratory motion. The purposes to which the Logan Stone was applied by the Druids have given rise to no little antiquarian controversy. According to Toland, " the Druids made the people believe that they alone could move these stones, and by a miracle only ; by which pretended power they condemned or acquitted the accused, and often brought criminals to confess what could in no other way be extorted from them." Borlase having observed rock basins on the Logan Stones in Cornwall, conjectures that by the means of those basins the Druids made the Logan subservient to their judicial purposes, and applied it as an ordeal to convict or acquit a culprit, by filling or emptying the basin, and by this displacement of the centre of gravity rendered the mass immoveable, or the contrary, at pleasure. This ingenious conjecture * Hist. View Dtv., p. 56. Juxta Harpasa, oppidum Aaicc, cautcs stat horrenda, uno tigito mobili* ; eadem, si toto corpore iinpellatur, resistens.— Pun. lib. ii. 69. 28 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. of the antiquary has been thus felicitously rendered subservient to poetical purposes by Mason — Behold yon huge And unhewn sphere of living adamant, Which pois'd by magic, rests its central weight On yonder pointed rock ; firm as it seems, Such is its strange and virtuous property, It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch Of him whose heart is pure ; but to a traitor, Tho' ev'n a giant's prowess nerv'd his arm, It stands as fixed as Snowdon. Fosbroke considers the Logan or Rocking Stone as the " stone of power," occurring so frequently in the poems of Ossian, according to which authority it appears that the bards walked round the stone singing, and made it move as an oracle of the fate of battle. " He called the grey-haired Snivan, that sang round the circle of Loda, when the stone of power heard his voice, and battle turned in the field of the valiant" That a crafty and intelligent priesthood like the Druids, should have availed themselves of circumstances so favourable as the singular position of the Logan Stones, is highly probable, but that their being so placed is the effect of natural circumstances there can be no doubt Norden's explanation may apply to many though not to all the exam- ples. " It is to be imagined that theis stones were thus lefte at the general floudc when the earth was washed awaye, and the massie stones remained, as are mightie rocks uncovered, standing upon loftie hills." Like many other disputed points of antiquarian book basin, interest, where no contemporary authority or external evidence can be adduced on either side, the Bock Basins have afforded a fruitful source of controversy. Whilst some have strenuously advocated their claims to the venerable character of Druidical relics, "others at this doctrine rail/ 9 and attribute their formation to the action of the weather, and to the facility with which the component particles of granite disintegrate under certain circumstances. That numberless hollows or granite masses have been thus naturally formed, no observer of the natural pheonomena of Dartmoor will for a moment question. But that off these singular relics are to be ascribed to the action of physical causes, will scarcely be admitted by those who have examined such M(<5UlIUrrAL RELICS. £9 carious specimens as that on the- top of Great Alistor, one of the loftiest hills of the moor. This basin is in a singularly perfect State, in form a circle, three feet in diameter, and eight inches deep. Its sides are regularly formed, rising straight from the bottom, which » Sat ; a spout or lip is formed in its northern edge. It might be most characteristically described as a pan, excavated in granite (accordingly, ftfistax Pan is its popular designation), and it bears such n itiVal marks of artificial preparation, as could scarcely fail to convince any unprejudiced observer. That this rude and primitive species of basin formed part of the apparatus of Druidism there can be little doubt, but the specific purpose for which they were designed is not so clear. The frequent occurrence of rock basins on the surface of Logan Stones, induced Dr. Borlase to conclude that they were intended to regulate the motion of the Logan Stone. The same author supposes them to have been used for libations of blood, wine, honey, or oil, and describes some as large enough to receive the head and part of the body. Fosbroke unhesi- tatingly pronounces rock basins to be " cavities cut in the surface of a rock, supposed for reservoirs, to preserve the rain or dew in its original purity, for the religious uses of the Druid."* Polwhele observes, "with respect to the use of these basins, I think we may " easily conjecture that they were contrived by the Druids, as recep- " tacles of water, for the purpose of external purification by washing "and sprinkling. The rites of water-lustration and ablution, were " too frequent among the Asiatics, not to be known to the Druids, " who resembled the eastern nations in all their religious ceremonies, " fashions, and customs, * • From such basins the officiating Druid " might sanctify the congregation with rt more sacred lustration than " usual. In this water he might mix his misletoej or infuse his oak " leaves, for a medicinal or incantatorial potion." We learn from Mr. Vernon Harcourt that the connection, or rather the identity of Druidism with Arkite worship, may be satisfac- torily traced in this remarkable relic of antiquity, the rock basin. In the opinion of the Druids, or of their predecessors in the Arkite priest- hood, water was deemed so essential to the mysteries of regeneration, that they took great pains to secure a supply of it in the best way they • Bncyslop. of Antin., vol i. p. lb.— Land. 1825. 4to. 30 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. could, and for this purpose they excavated basins upon the surface of the rocks in their high places to contain it. The same author notes a curious circumstance, related by an oriental traveller, " There are three large troughs or rock basins, neatly cut out on the flat surface of a granite rock at Axum in Abyssinia; out of which, tradition says, that a great snake, the presiding genius of the flood, who resided in the hollow of the mountain, used to eat."* The following may be noted as characteristics of the rock basins observed in various parts of Dartmoor. Situation — commonly on the highest spot of the loftiest pile of the tor, very often near the edge of the block in which they are hollowed — in many instances, with a lip or channel, to convey the water from the basin, — bottom, flat, — sides, perpendicular, — depth, from four to eight inches, — form, for the most part circular, and varying in diameter from one foot to three. The Cromlech is, perhaps, the most curious relic CROMLECH. * •% • • i i ,i »,i» oi our aboriginal ancestors ; and the precincts of Dartmoor can boast one of the finest in the kingdom, which may be pronounced to be the only perfect specimen in Devonshire. Sir It. C. Iloare observes that the Cromlech has been confounded with the Kistvacn, but that he had strong reason for supposing they were raised for different purposes. The true Cromlech, as distinguished from the Kistvaen, generally consists of three rude unwrought stones, artificially fixed in the ground, and supporting a fourth, of an irregu- lar tabular form, as a canopy, in most cases at the height of several feet from the ground ; whereas the Kistvaen consists of four, five, or more slabs, forming a kind of rude stone coffin or sarcophagus, fixed in the ground, with a cover-stone for the reception of corpses. Instances occur of four, and even six supporters to the impost in cromlechs ; but three is the more usual number. It is singular that Dr. Borlase should never have found more than three supporters, as Trevethy Stone, near St. Cleer in his own county, has seven. He supposes three to have been chosen in preference to a larger number, as not requiring so much nicety in bringing the impost to bear. The masses, of which cromlechs are composed, like the Druidical monu- ments in general, are rude and unwrought, and appear to have been placed in their present position, rough from their native bed, — and * Doct. of Deluge, vol. ii. 505—6. MONUMENTAL RELICS. 31 untouched, except by the storms of three thousand winters. The term cromlech is of doubtful import, and the researches of antiqua- ries into its etymology have thrown little light on the purposes for which these primitive monuments were originally designed. Row- lands (Mona Antigua Restaurata) derives the name Cromlech from the Heb. Carem luach, which he renders, a devoted stone or altar. Sir B. C. Hoare traces the etymology to the British words crom, bending, or bowed, and ttec, a broad, flat stone. Dr. Borlase hazards the conjecture that the word means the crooked stone, the impost or quoit being generally of a gibbous or curved form. And with regard to the particular specimen at Drewsteignton, Polwhele is of opinion that the name of the farm on which it stands may be regarded as favouring this etymology, as he thinks Shilston is no more than a corruption of Shilfeston* (by which term the estate is described in antient deeds), which "signifies the shelfstone, or shelving stone.f One of the characteristics of the cromlech is its shelving cover-stone, or quoit as it is more commonly called ; and by those who contend that these curious monuments were gigantic altars,} raised for the celebration of the bloody rites of Druidism, — this form is supposed to have been adopted to afford the assembled votaries a fuller view of the devoted victim and sacrificing priest, and to allow the blood to run off readily. But whilst standing by the altar is a position familiar to all, as the universally prevailing practice among all nations where sacrifices have formed part of the worship of the people, the idea of a priest standing upon it is altogether foreign to our notions, and would doubtless appear to be abhorrent to the feelings of the Druids, who seem to have been most scrupulous in inculcating peculiar reverence for places and objects consecrated to the purposes of religion. Such an elevation as that of the Drew- steignton cromlech could never have been reached, except by the help of a ladder or steps. A Cyclopaean staircase of granite blocks • Hist. Views Det>. % p. 70. f It is worthy of remark that in our genuine Devonshire vernacular the word shelf is still pronounced shil, and thus far supports Polwhele's notion. Moreover the Anglo- Saxon scylfe is not only a shelf, but also an abacus, a roof or covering, as rendered by Bosworth, (Anglo-Sax. Diet, in voc. abacus, scamnum, tabulatam, tectum,) terms which describe with singular accuracy, the cromlech at Shilston, in the parish of Drewsteignton. % Olaua Wormius appears to support this hypothesis. " Ararum structure apud nos est varia. Maxima ex parte congesto ex terra constant tumulo, in eujus summitate, tria ingentia saxa, quartum, illudque majus, latius ac planius, sustinent, fulciunt ac sustentant, ut instar menses tribus fuleris innixae emineat." 32 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. might have given access to the surface, but no traces of such an accommodation have oyer been found in any of the numerous existing examples. For these and other reasons, we may justly question the hypothesis, which would discover a colossal altar in these remarkable monuments of aboriginal antiquity, and would conclude that this was their original destination. Still they might have been the scene of religious rites, although the cromlech itself was not intended to form an altar, but rather a 6hrine, or perhaps the tomb of the Arch- Druid or other distinguished personage. Sir R. C. Hoare considers the absence of human remains in a particular instance as evidence in favour of the cromlech having been intended for an altar ; but Dr. Borlasc remarks " as the whole frame of the cromlech shows itself to be unfit for an altar of burnt offerings, so I think it points out evidently to us several reasons to conclude that it is a sepulchral monument," though he allows that in his researches he never found bones or arms to support his hypothesis. Fosbroke quotes Holinshed in support of the altar hypothesis, but although the old chronicler speaks of an altar, it by no means follows that the altar he mentions must be a cromlech. " Cromlechs are further designated as altars by Holinshed, * * before quoted, where after mentioning places compassed about 'with huge stones, round like a ring/ he adds, ' but toward the south was one mightie stone, far greater than all the rest, pitched up in manner of an altar, whereon their priests might make their sacrifices in honour of their gods.' "♦ A mighty stone (standing singly) might be " pitched up in manner of an altar," without supporters beneath, (for this would destroy its altar-like character, and constitute it a table, instar tnenste, as Olaus Wormius has it), and there are thousands on Dartmoor, which only require to be raised on-end, to form altars, f exactly suited to the purposes and genius of Druidism, and closely approaching to the pedestal or truncated form, so generally preferred among the nations of classical antiquity, for this essential and prominent feature in the arrangements of their temples. * Holinshed, v. 45, ed 4to. Ency. Antiq., 508. t " The huge piles of stones erected from time immemorial, in several parts of Ireland, with immense coverings, raised in due order, are doubtless of Pagan times. Some think them Druidical altars. They have the generical name of Leaba na Feme. These words sig- nify the beds of the Phceni, or Carthaginians:* —Ency. Ant., 513. From this etymology, I should however infer that these erections were burying places rather than altars. i l It RELICS. M Another hypothesis regards tkc Cromlech as a sanctuary or acred cell, — a place of occasional retreat, for a. Druid, and intimately ted with Arkite ceremonies, probably representing the ark ■ After all the conjectures which have been made, as to the original desigu of these venerable and interesting relics of unrecorded f , the most reasonable conclusion seems to be that to which such writers as Borlase and Polwhele wore mainly led (from their acquaintance with the examples m Cornwall and Devon), viz., that they were chiefly intended as sepulchral monuments raised only .to persons of eminence and distinction, although this might not prevent their being used for other purposes. That very curious specimen, the Cromlech of St. Cleer, in Cornwall, is popularly called the . * Stone, and if this is rightly rendered the house or place of graces, it would appear that some evidences of antient burials had been found within its area. At least, we are certain that human ri'tuains have been discovered beneath the massive canopy of the cromlech, in various instances, although Sir R. Hoarc adduces an -. mentioned above, in which a cromlech occurs, surrounded by five kistvaens, all which contained bones ; yet none were found iitirlcr the cromlech itself: but then it must be borne in mind that the learned Wiltshire antiquary, as he himself allows, never had an opportunity of examining a cromlech, his own county not offering ■ advantages as are presented to the Danmonian investigator, in the fine specimens which remain in Cornwall and Devon. Polwhele prouounces that the Drewsteignton cromlech "was the sepulchre "of a chief Druid, or of some prince, the favourite of the Druid " order. Hence the cromlech acquired a peculiar degree of holiness ; " and sacrifices were performed in view of it, to the manes of the " dcad."t That religious ceremonies were celebrated at or near tlir.se singular erections may be inferred from the designations which some of them have traditionally obtained. Fosbroke mentions that the Cromlech, near Marecross in Glamorganshire, is still called the Old Church, among the common people. Mr. Chappie, who wrote an elaborate treatise on the Drewsteign- • Nonlcn. Low ever, calls it Trtthenic, Oho Gigantis; but TreTethy or Trethevy is Pmiin by which it is still knon 11 in the neighbourhood, t Hist. new. Dcv. 'Jt. 34 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. ton Cromlech, about seventy years ago, fancied that he had elicited from various careful measurements, an entirely new object, contemplated by the original constructors. He is convinced that it " could not be primarily intended, either as a religious structure, or a sepulchral monument, but was partly designed for sciatherical purposes, and in general, as the apparatus of an astronomical observatory 3 '! Without further adverting to this author's minute calculations and elaborate arguments, it will be generally concluded that cromlechs were more probably erected for sacrificial or sepulchral purposes than for astro- nomical; and that the theory which is built upon a foundation so fanciful will scarcely demand a serious refutation. The result of one of his calculations may, however, be noticed ; as he may possibly be somewhat near the truth, when he infers that upwards of one thousand two hundred years have elapsed since the Drewsteignton Cromlech was erected. Another calculation which Mr. Chappie made is likely to be accurate, as he had real data, and not imaginary premises to found it upon. He computes the superincumbent quoit to contain 216 cubic feet, nearly, and calculates its weight at sixteen tons and sixteen pounds. When we consider that this huge mass of granite rock is supported at the height of nearly seven feet from the ground, and has preserved its position for, perhaps, at least twenty centuries, we should be unjust in forming a low estimate of the mechanical skill of the people who could construct such a massive and durable fabric. The Kistvaen, Cistvaen, or Stone Chest, has been kistvaen. thought to differ from the cromlech only in size ; but even if both were designed for sepulchral purposes, their formation is essentially different. By the term Kistvaen is com- monly understood, stones placed edgewise, inclosing a small space of ground, and covered with a similar stone. " Of this relic of British antiquity," says Sir It. C. Hoare, "lam enabled to speak with certainty, if, by its form and name, it did not speak for itself; it is composed of several stones, set upright, with a large one incumbent, thus forming a stone coffin or chest, in which the ashes or bones of the deceased were deposited."* Sometimes it is found on the summit of a cairn, as at Molfra, Cornwall, but I have observed no example of this des- cription in Devonshire. Sometimes it is embedded in the cairn, and • Ant. Wilts, toL ii., p. 115. ~~ KOK1 MENTAL RELICS. H one of lliis kind remains on the highest part of Cosdon hill. One- we noticed near a trackway, below Rippon Tor, within the inclosure of one of the hut circles, or foundations of aboriginal habitations, and which would therefore not appear to be designed for sepulture. I observed and measured a fine specimen, in June, 1846, about a fur- long south of Hound Tor, within a circular inclosure (constructed of slabs closely set), twenty -six yards in circumference. The Kistvaen itself is formed of four stones, — one of the lateral slabs remains almost upright in its original position ; it is not less than six feet one inch long, one foot in average thickness, and fifteen inches wide. At the south end, the head or foot-stone remains erect, two feet three inches broad, and thus giving the breadth of this aboriginal sarcopha- gus. The other side and end stones are thrown down. Kistvaens we found in connection with the sacred circle, and with cairns, as above described ; but they arc more usually observed simply placed, i.e., independently of any other relic. In the centre is frequently seen a circular excavation, from wliich, in most cases, there is good reason for supposing a cinerary urn to have been removed, as in many instances both urns and bones have been found within these primitive depositories. Kistvaens, in barrows, with sepulchral re- mains, according to Sir R. C. Hoare, arc usually found in barrows, at the broad or eastern end. The Barrow, or Tumulus, is too well known as a barhow ... , , , SI) primitive monumental mound to require any caisd. lengthened description. Where stones were not abundant, the soil heaped together at once protec- ted the remains of the dead,— and formed their monument. But where stones of convenient size abounded, as on Dartmoor, the monuments of the departed were raised by an accumulation of stones all of a size, to be easily carried by a man, since we learn that every person in the army, or community, or town, brought one stone to the the Roman soldiers were each accustomed to bring a helmet full of earth to the tumulus, and thus was formed the cairn or carnedd, which Sir R. C. Hoare observes, resembles the barrow both in shape and purport, but differs in its materials and situation. Some authors distinguish between Cairn and Carnedd, regarding the latter as a place of sacrifice, the former of burial. But Sir R. C. Hoare pronoun- ces that several have been opened without any appearance of 36 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. sepulchral remains being detected, and thence concludes that many cairns or artificial aggregations of stones are merely heaps of memorial, — raised for the purpose of commemorating some remarkable event or transaction. The venerable and unerring records of divine history afford a well-known example of the existence of this custom, in the ear- liest ages of the world, when Jacob raised a heap of stones in attestation of the compact of reconciliation and amity between himself and his father-in-law, Laban ; and in the terms employed, and the ceremonies resorted to, it is not a little curious and instructive to trace indica*- tions of the several purposes to which similar monuments were alike applied by the Mesopotamian patriarchs, and by our Celtic fore- fathers. In this highly interesting record we have preserved even some minute details of the process of forming the monumental erection, after the conflicting parties had adjusted the preliminaries of the compact. " Now, therefore," said Laban, " come thou, let us make a covenant, I and thou, and let it be for a witness between me and thee." The effects of the appeal made to the domestic charities and kindliest feelings of our nature are seen in the construction of that kind of simple but significant monument, which was no doubt the recognised symbol and memorial of similar transactions. Jacob, as the chief of his clan or household, first chooses a columnar stone, maen, or rock pillar, such as are frequently seen on Dartmoor, and then calls upon his family and followers to collect other stones of a form suitable for the construction of a cairn or barrow. " And Jacob took a stone and set it up for a pillar. And Jacob said unto his brethren, Gather stones ; and they took stones and made an heap, and they did eat there upon the heap." We find that the word here rendered heap* properly means any round accumulation, the Hebrew root implying, in its primary sense, something rolled into a spherical form. Hence commentators have imagined that the stones thus collected might have formed a circular mound, with a single stone erect in the centre, and that it was upon this rudely constructed inclosure the people sat, when " they did eat there upon the heap," whilst the central pillar might have been an altar, of which arrange- ment there are many Druidical examples, especially when the sur- * Gal. acervus, cumulus, in rotundum aggcstus.—Siv.O'Sin Lex, Heb. in roc. MOMtTMEHTAl RELICS. .;: rounding iuclosure is a sacred or columnar circle- But the patriarchal monument, which we are now examining, was more probably a simple cairn or round stone barrow (iiovvoi hi the Septuagint), with a rock pillar elevated in the centre ; and as all the family and retainers seem to have been called upon to carry stones to the heap, it appears to have been intended to impress upon their memory the transaction in which they had been engaged, and thus to constitute them all so many witnesses of the covenant into which their chiefs had entered. That this catrn was primarily designed to attest and perpetuate the treaty of reconciliation and amity, we are expressly told, and the names which the patriarchs respectively gave it, — each in his proper tongue, leave no room for doubt on this point. Laban called it Jegar Sahadutha; but Jacob called it Galeed, both importing the same thing, the heap of witness. But Laban appears to have added a further designation, which indicates another use to which, these cairns were applied. It was also called Mizpeh — i.e. a beacon or watch- tower ; for he said, " The Lord watch between me and thee, when we are" absent one from another." Placed on some of the loftiest peaks of Dartmoor, the cairns were doubtless used as most suitable watch- towers ; and when alarm was necessary, the flaming pile raised upon them would be a conspicuous signal to the whole surrounding country. A beacon kindled upon the cairn on the top of C'osdon, often, perhaps, roused the warriors of North Devon, whilst it would be also seen from Hey Tor, and thus spread the alarm through East Devon and the South Hams. The mountain retains the name of Cosdon Beacon to this day. Furthermore, the mound raised by the patriarchs on this memorable occasion probably answered the purpose of a land- mark or boundary, — " And Laban said to Jacob, This heap be witness, and this pillar be witness, that I will not pass over this heap to thee, and that thou shalt not pass over this heap unto me, to do me harm." Such were the purposes, among others, to which these primitive nts appear to have been applied ; nor can we doubt that the counterpart of the Heap of Witness, piled up some four thousand years ago in the wilds of Syria, is to be found in many of the cairns and barrows of our British ancestors. Many of the cairns on Dartmoor, as those which gave name to Three Burrow Tor, at the southern extremity, are popularly but incorrectly called barrows, the simple and descriptive designation of 38 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. the latter being conveyed in the words, Sepulchrum cespes erigit, a monument formed of the sod, whereas the cairn is constructed of stones, whence in the rocky wilds of Devonshire, where these mate- rials are abundant, the cairn is frequent, while the true sod barrow is of comparatively rare occurrence. On the other hand, in a more champaign region, such as the Wiltshire downs, the barrow, in every shape, is found to prevail. Of the four principal kinds* which Sir B. Hoare enumerates, we have numerous specimens of the first kind, the Long Barrow, on the moorland heights of Devon. These are thought by this learned author to have been clearly alluded to by the celebrated Danish antiquary, Olaus Wormius, when describing royal barrows, in the form of a large ship (Begii tumuli ad magnitu- dinem et figuram carina, navis)-it would seenTkeel upwar^r. Harcourt points out this form as identifying this kind of monumental relic with that traditionary knowledge of the deluge, and veneration for the ark, which prevailed so extensively among the antient nations of the world — " It is not difficult to account for the reversed position of the ship ; for when the first wanderers over the ocean desired to have a place of worship, to which they might repair in bad weather, with the least possible deviation from their antient usages, it would naturally occur to them, that by hauling their ships on shore and turning their keel upwards, they would obtain at once an object of S€ religious reverence and a shelter from the storm."t But, whatever might have given rise to the form, and to whatever other purposes the barrow or cairn might have been applied, its sepulchral character will not admit of question ; although Sir B. Hoare thinks it wonderful that such gigantic mounds should have been raised for the deposit of a few human bodies, but in this remark seems to betray the want of his usual acumen, as it is evident on very slight reflection that magnitude was the only means by which monuments of such simple materials could be rendered conspicuous, distinctive, or permanent. But our Wiltshire antiquary admits that some cairns have been proved sepulchral, and as to barrows there can be no doubt, though both, as we have already seen, may have been applied to other €€ IC €1 • 1— Long Barrow; 2— bowl-ahaped ; 3— bell-shaped ; 4— Druids' Barrow. The three latter forms are scarcely likely to occur where stone barrows or cairns prerail, as in Deronahire. f Doct. Del, ii. 272. MONUMENTAL RELICS. 88 purposes. And with regard to their size being disproportioncd to their object U monumental erections, — in proof of what has been advanced above, Polwhelc records the opening of a cairn on Haldon, by Rev. Mr. Swete, of Oxton, in the centre of which was found a single cinerary urn, though the cairn was more than two hundred feet in circumference. We may, therefore, believe Silbury to have been a colossal monument (as well as a hill-altar*), especially, as this Wiltshire wonder, vast as it is, shrinks into comparative insignificance when contrasted with the tumulus of Ninus, near the city of Nineveh, which, according to Ctesias, was nine furlongs in height and ten in breadth ! This method of burial was continued in our own isle down to the Saxon a;ra. Thus, in Caernarvonshire, Bedn Gwortigern, still pre- serves the memory of the Grave of Vortigern, — a large Caruedd or Stone barrow. Whjttaker (Hist. Manchester, ii. 140), quotes Adamnan's Life of Columba, (lib. i., c. 33,) to show that it continued a century later, as the burial of a person is thus expressly described. "Socii congesto lapidum acervo sepelierunt." A Bimpler commemorative monument is the Kock rock PILLAR. Pillar, or rude Stone Obelisk — similar, probably, to that pillar which Jacob erected on the above occa- sion, and still more like that which he had previously set up at Bethel to commemorate the gracious manifestation of his Divine presence, which the God of his fathers had vouchsafed, and the promise to his countless posterity of that whole land on which he lay a forlorn and houseless wanderer. In the former case, where the pillar stood only as the witness to former transactions between man and man, we have no mention of any ceremonial of dedication. But the pillar which was raised to transmit to future generations the remembrance of the heavenly vision of the Most High appears to have been dedicated by the patriarch as marking a spot consecrated by the manifestation of the Almighty Presence, and regarded by bim as none other than the House of God and the Gate of Heaven. The sacred historian writes, that Jacob took the stone that he had put for " Mr. Harcourt is of opinion that in the conical or pyiamidicil banow may be traced ■ aymbolical representation of Ararat, a mountain held aactcd by many nations u the spot on -which the Ark rested after tbo Deluge. " The pyramid, like all other MCted mounts, was a memorial o( Mount Aiarat."— boci. Dtl., ii. 252. 40 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. his pillows, and set it up for a pillar, and put oil upon it. " This passage," says Burder, ts evinces of how great antiquity is the custom of considering stones in a sacred light, as well as the anointing them with consecrated oil." And in speaking of blocks of stone still wor- shipped in Hindostan and other eastern countries, the same author observes, " that it is very remarkable that one of the principal cere- monies incumbent upon the priests of these stone deities, according to Tavernier, is to anoint them daily with odoriferous oils. From this conduct of Jacob, and this Hebrew appellative (Bethel) the learned Bochart, with great ingenuity and reason, insists that the name and veneration of the sacred stones called Bactyli, so celebrated in all pagan antiquity, were derived." Thus, the setting up of a stone by this holy person, in grateful memory of the celestial vision, probably became the occasion of idolatry in succeeding ages, to these shapeless masses of unhewn stone, of which so many astonishing remains are scattered up and down the Asiatic and European world.* Many such are to be found on Dartmoor, and were probably designed for similar purposes. A striking specimen appears amidst the aboriginal relics near Merivale Bridge, on the Walkham, in the western quarter. Tapering in form, it presents, in a shaft of unwrought granite, twelve feet high, and eight in girth, at the base, a rude type of the architec- tural obelisk, and may be regarded as a characteristic illustration of the designation by which monuments of this kind are described by antiquaries — Maen Hir, the Long Upright Stone. When thus found in connection with other relics, a variety of purposes to which these insulated columns might have been applied, suggest themselves to the mind;f but that the primary object of their erection, was that of com- memorating remarkable or important events, there seems little reason to doubt. Imperfect but undoubted relics of these dwellings of the antient * Burder Orient. Cust. vol. i. 40. — Lond. 1827. But Mr. Harcourt, in noticing the vast numbers of such relics, in various parts of the world, attributes them to a much earlier origin ; and regards them as so many undoubted memorials of the Deluge, in a variety of forms ; symbolizing " The highest peak of the Diluvian Mountain," Le. one of the columnar or pyramidal crags of Mount Ararat. f SirR. G. Hoare states, that no example occurs in Wiltshire, — "but they are to be found in other parts of our island, in Ireland, and in Wales." — Ant. Wilts, ii. 114. This learned antiquary cites "the Devil's Arrows" in Yorkshire, and the rock pillars at Trelech, in Monmouthshire, as examples ; but seems to have been ignorant of the exis- tence of our fine Devonshire specimens, which, standing alone, are more decidedly mo- numental than the former, which are found in connexion with others. MONUMENTAL RELICS. 11 inhabitant*, are found in profusion in almost every part of Dartmoor. It is worthy of remark how little attention has been huts or I™** ky topographers and historians to these curious dwellings. aud unquestionable vestiges of the primitive popu- lation of our Island. The observations of Sir K. C. Hoarc, in reference to Wiltshire, will, for the most part, apply with equal if not with greater pertinence, to Devonshire. " It is somewhat singular," remarks that learned antiquary, " that the discovery of our British settlements should not have been made previous to my own researches, and that they had escaped the notice of Aubrey, Stukcly, and crery subsequent writer on our national antiquities. Their Lyes seem to have been dazzled with the splendour of an Abury and a Slonehenge, and to have noticed only the tumuli of the Britons, without turning a thought towards the residences of the living, to whose memory these sepulchral mounds were raised at their decease." So tin.' Drcwsteignton Cromlech and Logan-stone are the theme of every topographer; but the hundreds of ruined dwellings, scattered over the highlands of Devonshire, appear, for the most part, to have escaped observation, or to have been deemed unworthy of attention. I have however observed, that these ruined abodes of our rude forefathers are more numerous along the declivities, on the skirts of the moor, and on the hill-sides in the interior, which slope down to the water-courses, than in other parts. The principal groups of houses, (villages or towns,) are invariably found in rach situations. For miles in the heathy table land round Cran- mere Pool, I have only been able to find a single insulated dwelling, while in the slopes of almost all the valhes, especially those fronting to the south and west, they arc of frequent occurrence. The large aboriginal village near Mcrivale Bridge has a western aspect, -i!uated on the side of a hill, gently rising from the banks of the Walkham. The fortified town at G rimspound, with its Cyclopean cir cum variation, is built on the western declivity of Hamildown, with a spring rising on the eastern side of the inclosure. But in whatever situations the rude dwellings of the primitive Britons are found, whether inclosed within walls as at Grimspound, or in unwalled village* as at Merivale, — they are all observed to be similar in design, — and all, with only one ascertained exception, in the same completely ruined condition, with uothing but the foundations and 42 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. the door jambs remaining. These hut circles, as they have been called, to distinguish them from the sacred circles (from which they differ essentially) are all circular in plan; and consist of granite blocks, set firmly in the ground on their edge, and placed closely together, (instead of at wide intervals as the sacred circle,) so as to form a secure foundation for the superstructure, whether it were constructed of stone and turf, wattle,* or other material. To adopt the language of Whittaker, in describing the houses of the Lancashire Britons, " they were, as we have every reason to suppose what the general houses of the Gauls and Britons were, great round cabins, built principally of timber on foundations of stone, and roofed with a sloping covering of reeds." It would however appear that where stone was abundant, as on Dartmoor, the cabins in some instances at least were constructed entirely of stone, as the same author remarks of the remains of British buildings in Anglesea and Wilts. In this kind of masonry the interstices were filled with turf or earth, as, according to Whittaker, was the practice in the Western Isles of Scotland, who might have found modern examples of the same kind of building in England, since this " rough-and-ready" method of erecting walls seems to have been handed down from the earliest times, and prevails among our Dartmoor peasants to this day. The remains of the aboriginal habitations in Devon, as above- mentioned, consist for the most part of foundations only, with the door jambs, in many instances ; and the superstructure in these, was most probably of wood and other perishable materials. But one example has been discovered of the description just referred to, where the hut is in a state comparatively perfect, having been constructed entirely of stone and turf, the upper part only having fallen in. It appears to have been shaped like a bee-hive, the wall being formed of large stones, which seem to have been chosen with care, for the pur- pose of forming the widely arched roof; and which evidently had their interstices filled up with smaller stone and, probably, turf. The Danmonian huts have their counterparts in the shealings of the Orkneys, some of which are of this form, and are constructed of stone and turf; others have a base of stone consisting of two circles one within the other, with a roofing of fir poles, converging to a • Junctse cortice rirgsc. — Ovid. MONIMEKTAI, RELICS. [mini and ihutched with branches 01 heather. Both kinds appeal to luve existed on Dartmoor; and the Yestiges which still remain, sufK- aceord with the descriptions given by Diodorua Sicnlus, and Strabu, of the habitations of the Britons of their times, to induce the belief that they had received the accounts from some of those enter- prising mariners, who had seen the buildings, in their trading voyages to the isles of tin. The ruined basement, which constitutes the hut circle in the majority of examples, of a single course of stones, but in some instances, a double circle is observed. These stones stand generally from eighteen inches to thirty above the surface. The door jambs also of stone, are, in most cum--, higher placed, nearly at right angles to the outline of the circle: in a very considerable proportion of examples, the door faces the south. Theec dwellings measure from twelve to thirty feet, diameter; the most asual BUO being about twenty - six feet, though some occur of much larger dimensions, and these were probably appropriated to the chieftain of the clan. Caaar describes the houses of the Britons as similar to the dwellings of the Gauls, lighted only from the door, and on this Fo&brokc remarks, that his account was perfectly correct, from the representation of the British cabins on the Antonine column, where they appear as circular liuilrlings, with sloping or domical roofs, having an opening at the top for the emission of smoke." The Britons of the interior were a ! people, as wc may safely conclude from Ctesar's account of their mtide of subsistence ; " Interiores plerique frvmenta non sertmt ; ted /arte et carnc twunt" The nomadic life and habits evidently implied by this brief but comprehensive description, their inattention :■:. and their subsisting upon milk and flesh, would be quite in keeping with the nature off the wild uncultivated tracts of Dartmoor. Hence we may infer that the Britons had out-buildings and inclosures for the folding of their cattle, and that therefore some of the ruined foundations which have been described above, are the remains of build- • Kmcy. dnlig., p. 7G. f Like the Komadei of the antient limes, and tlie more modern Tartars, our Britons i-*ii]tii iipou the hillj, sheltered by liuta [rum the incl enjuncy of the weather, and subsist- ing on Iho produce of their cattle, and the venison, which the wooda supplied in abun- dance. The numerous remains we have discovered in each district of our country, . jiiuve tlic original rrf-ukuiv uf ill? Ilritruin to linvc existed upon llie hills; but in ■■■*, when civilued by the Homans, they probably bepan to clear Uie Allies tram woods, and to seek more abeltered situations in the vales, and in the Ticiiiity ef liven.— Ant. H'Uu , vol. iL, p. 106. 44 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. ings raised for purposes of this kind, and as in our own times, in most cases, adjoining the habitations of the owners of the flocks and herds. . For the protection of cattle, those curious inclo- pounds or sures, which occur in so many parts of the moor, ciRCUMVALLA- are traditionally supposed to have been constructed, tions. an( j aie therefore popularly called pounds by the moormen. That they were intended to protect the inhabitants as well as their cattle, on any sudden emergency, there can be no doubt, although it would appear that the most perfect of them, Grimspound, was designed as the fortification of a permanent settlement, rather than as a temporary strong-hold, to which, as we learn from Caesar, the Belgic Celts were accustomed to retreat, with their families, flocks, and herds, on the approach of danger. These inclosures are either low walls of stones piled rudely together, in a ridge-like form, or belts of huge granite blocks, placed erect in the ground. Their general form is circular, but some examples are ellip- tical. Remains of habitations are in most cases found in these primi- tive entrenchments, so that we may justly conclude "that they were originally constructed for purposes of security and defence. A fine specimen occurs, on the commons, west of Castor Rock, adjoining a moorland road which forms the boundary between the parishes of Chagford and Gidleigh, where the Round Pound, as it is called by the moormen, exhibits the foundations of a house within the inclosure, which itself forms a kind of courtyard round the dwelling, with the jambs at the entrance still erect. Grimspound is by far the finest and most extraordinary of all the relics of this class. Viewed from Hooknor Tor, which commands its entire area, it presents to the spectator an object of singular curi- osity and interest. Its situation is on the N.W. slope of Hamildon, on the borders of the parishes of Manaton, North Bovey, and Widde- combe. The wall or mound is formed of moorstone blocks, rudely piled up, but so large as not to be easily displaced. The base of this rampart covers in some parts a surface of twenty feet in breadth, but the average height of a section taken at any point would not exceed six feet. With the exceptions of an opening on the east and west sides, the inclosure is perfect, surrounding an area of about four acres. The original entrance is supposed to have been on the south The vestiges of antient habitations within this primitive entrenchment are MONUMENTAL RELICS. 45 numerous, (as already observed), and occupy the whole area, leaving only one vacant spot at the upper end, which might have been a kind of forum, or place of public concourse, for the inhabitants. A spring, rising on the eastern side, and skilfully conducted for some distance below the wall, supplied the inhabitants with pure water ; and the whole presents a more complete specimen of an antient British settlement, provided with means of protracted defence, than will perhaps be found in any other part of the island. A path-road from Manaton to Headland Warren runs through the inclosure. Of the other kind of Cyclopean inclosure above referred to, I know but one existing specimen, observed by us, first, in the year 1828, in a small pasture field about a furlong S.E. of Manaton Church, and conjectured by Col. Hamilton Smith to have given the original name to the parish, Maen-y~dun, the Fort, or Inclosure, of Erect Stones. This appears to be a description of primitive circumvallation, unknown to, or at least altogether unnoticed by, antiquaries. It is elliptical in form, and in an exceedingly perfect condition. The masses of which the fence is constructed are from four to six feet high, placed in a double row, and set closely together. I noticed, however, one stone so large that it fills the whole breadth, being six feet wide by five thick. The diameters^rf the elliptical area are one hundred and thirty-eight feet by one hundred. There are no vestiges of any Druidical relic within the inclosure or near it, and the most cursory observer will instantly remark that its character is totally different from the Pounds, and still more so from the columnar circle. As it is situated on comparatively low ground, where pas- turage must have been abundant, it was probably erected for the protection of cattle. Wherever there are communities having settled trackways habitations, however simple and uncultivated the or people, we justly expect to find some traces of the roads. means of communication between village and vil- lage, or one settlement and another. Nor is Dart- moor without numerous examples of this kind, affording proofs, in addition to those already advanced, of its having been inhabited in remote times. Trackways, under which designation those roads, or causeways, which cross the moor in various directions are generally known, Were no doubt often made to serve the purpose of boundary 46 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. lines. Sir R. C. Hoarc, describing those which he had examined in Wiltshire, observes — " The lines of communication between one village and another were by means of trackways, not paved or formed, but following the natural ridge of the country, by which they have gained the additional name of ridgeways, which some of them still retain." But this description of our primitive British roads, must be received with considerable modification, as applying to a country where stone was so abundant, as in the Devonshire highlands. There we find them constructed of stones (too large to be easily displaced) irregularly laid down on the surface, and thus forming a rude but efficient causeway, the general breadth of which is about five or six feet, but which, in one example (near Three Barrow Tor), we found to be fifteen feet, though much obscured by the encroaching vegetation. The most extensive trackway which has come under our notice is one which is supposed to traverse the forest in a line, bearing east and west, from Hamilton to Great Mistor. Considerable portions of the line can be traced in a direction corresponding to these points, but a large extent of it rests rather upon the testimony of tradition than upon the evidence of existing remains. The oral topographers of the uplands, recognise this trackway as the * equator of the moorland region, all above it being considered the north, and all below it the south country, a circumstance which though it affords good evidence of the antiquity of this relic, might be supposed to give it the character of a boundary rather than of a road ; but which will have less weight in this scale when we consider how frequently antient roads are found to form boundaries between parishes, manors, and other divisions of country, f This trackway may be observed in high preservation coming down the northern slope of Chittaford Down towards the banks of the East Dart. Here it can be traced for a considerable distance, and is visible running due west, through Hollocombe, and up the opposite hill to Little White Tor. Down the common, towards the Dart, it bends towards the north-cast, but * On the authority of the Rev. J. M. Mason, vicar of Widdecombe, whose intimate acquaintance with the topography and traditions of the moor, is as well known to the moorland tourist, as the obliging readiness with which he communicates the information, which he so extensively possesses, on these subjects. f A case which seems completely in point occurs, near the antient town of Ply mp ton, where an old road that keeps the crest of the hill in a remarkably straight direction, is still called Ridge Lane, and which for a considerable distance divides the parish of Brixton from the two Plymptons,— St. Mary and Maurice. MONUMENTAL RELICS. 47 in the level near Post Bridge, it takes a direction southward. With some difficulty it may be detected through the boggy meadows below Hartland farm. The peat-cutters are reported to come upon it, below the surface in some places ; nor is it at all unlikely that the encroachments of the vegetation, which in some instances are only partial, should in others have extended over the whole breadth of the trackway, and thus have obliterated all traces of it in the lower grounds. The trackways have no characteristic which would lead us to refer their construction to the Soman period of British history, nor have we documentary evidence that any of their roads ran through Dan- monium, in a direction corresponding to that of the Dartmoor track- ways. Neither are there in them any marks of modern construction, as fences, or bounds ; the remains of the oldest cattle fences on the moor, being so strikingly different, as to be evident to every observer of common penetration. Greatly similar in construction are the Tracklines, tracklines, or Boundary Banks, which are invariably observed in connexion with aboriginal dwellings and sepulchral banks. remains. They are numerous in every part of the moorlands, and like the same kind of primitive fosse which Sir R. C. Hoare describes as of frequent occurrence "through- out the downy district" of Wiltshire, " were originally thrown up for tiie double purpose of defence and communication," serving for "bounds and pathways, and connecting and enclosing dwellings. The xnost striking specimen is perhaps that which is presented on the south-eastern slope of Torrhill, near the road from Ashburton to Moreton, below Rippon Tor. Here are evident marks of regularity of design, and the tracklines intersect each other in such numbers that nearly the whole hill-side is partitioned into squares, conveying in a remarkable manner a lively idea of an aboriginal rural settlement, as there are remains of many antient habitations, within their respective closures. It would be too much to pronounce that we have evidence °f a different fashion prevailing in these constructions, in different W* of the moor, but on the south side of Hcytor, in the neighbour- * to °d of Torrhill, they are observed in rectangular outlines, while on ^°*don, they are in curves ; on Archeton hill, and below Wistman's Wood, in various irregular forms ; and near Littlcford Tor, one occurs 48 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. connecting two ruined dwellings in a line, which forms the segment of a circle. In a region such as Dartmoor, intersected by rivers bridges. and brooks in all directions, and those streams so peculiarly liable to be swollen by summer torrents, and by the thawing of the accumulated snows of winter, the progress of the trackways would be continually interrupted by these natural and formidable obstacles. In some instances, they may be found pointing to a ford, as would appear to be the case with the grand central road, below Chittaford Down ; but as the East Dart would fre- quently become impassable at that ford, the necessities of the case would task the ingenuity of the earliest inhabitants* in contriving the erection of a bridge. Happily the materials, which lay at hand, when such a necessity arose to a primitive people, were of a more durable kind than the felled tree, which in more wooded districts forms a ready and not inconvenient bridge. Vast slabs of granite afforded the means of constructing solid piers, by being merely laid one upon another, yet stable enough, without cement or other adventitious appliances, to breast the impetuous rush of the moorland torrents. The necessity of arching was obviated, by massive imposts of a tabular form, laid horizontally from pier to pier.f Adjoining Post Bridge, (a modern county bridge over the East Dart, traversed by the Tavistock and Moreton road) stands one of these venerable and characteristic relics of aboriginal times, presenting a truly interesting specimen of primitive Cyclopean architecture. The piers are three, and these with the abutments form four sufficient open- ings for the waterway. Its construction, though rude, is of the most durable kind. No structure of ordinary stability could have withstood the fury of the vehement Dart in his most turbulent moods, for twenty or thirty centuries. The piers consist of six layers of granite slabs, above the foundation. The superincumbent stones are singularly adapted for the purpose to which they are applied. The centre * In this immediate neighbourhood are many interesting remains of habitations on the newly -inclosed estate of Mr. J. N. Bennett, bf Plymouth, who, in carrying out his projected improvements, is laudably anxious for the due preservation of the relics of antiquity. f Some of these are formed of a single stone, and would then probably come under the vernacular denomination, Clam ; a term also frequently applied to a bridge formed of a plank, or single tree, although I have noticed a distinction sometimes made, the wooden bridge being called a Clapper, and the stone, a Clam. MONUMENTAL RELICS. 49 opening is narrower than the side openings ; the imposts here, were two, one of these by accident or design has been displaced, and lies in the bed of the river. These stones in general arc about fifteen feet long, and six wide, and thus a roadway was made over which even the scythed chariot of the Danmonian warrior might pass the river in safety. There are other specimens of the Cyclopean* bridge in various parts of the moor, but this is by far the largest and most interesting, and with the exception of the displacement of the stone above men- tioned, is in good preservation. Mrs. Bray, in enumerating other local antiquities, bears the testimony of an observant traveller to the uncommon character of these curious structures. " It is not unlikely that they are unique in their construction ; at least I can say that though I have visited in England, South Wales, and Brittany, many places celebrated for Celtic remains, I have never yet seen anything like our ancient Dartmoor bridges." t The camps, or earthworks, which are found on the skirts of the moorlands, may be regarded as forming FORTS AND . J ° , entrench- a connecting link between the aboriginal period of ments. British history, and the succeeding acras of Roman and Saxon dominion, since the same positions, from their national capabilities, would be occupied, in many cases, by the different invaders or defenders of the country in succession. Prcs- tonbury on the Teign, near Drewsteignton, and Hembury on the Dart, near Buckfastleigh, are both hill forts, so strikingly charac- teristic of the Celtic method of castramctation, that we can scarcely cr r in attributing their original construction to the Britons. We learn from Cxsar that our warlike progenitors, when repulsed by the Romans, betook themselves into strongholds, chosen it would appear *rth great discernment, for their natural advantages, and strengthened ty art with so much skill, as to deserve the commendation of a com- ^der so well versed in military affairs, as the conqueror of Gaul. ** e describes such a stronghold as excellently fortified by nature and **• A favourite position, according to the same authority, was a . t Nor have I observed any examples in North Wales, or in in Westmorland or Cum- H M. /,. / 50 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. pcninsulatcd hill, moated naturally, to a greater or less extent, by a river, and fortified, on the most accessible side, by a ditch and ram- part drawn across the neck of land. Such was the fortress of the Aduatici, in Gaul, described by Caesar. " The Gaer-Dykes, or Coxall Hill, where Caractacus was finally defeated, is a similar position," says Fosbroke, " on the point of a hill accessible only one way." The same author observes, that " the British camps in general occupy the summits of hills of a ridge-like form, and commanding passes." This is precisely the description of Prestonbury, which is a Celtic hill fortress, evidently of high antiquity, and of a most interesting description, whether we consider its construction, or the situation it occupies. This characteristic specimen of the primitive fortifications of the Danmonian highlands, occupies the extreme point of a ridge- like hill which forms the northern bank of the Teign, to the extent of about a mile between Fingle and Clifford bridges. Immediately above the former, it rises from the brink of the river in the form of a bold headland, fully commanding the low ground beneath, from its precipitous character. The hollow between Prestonbury, and the acclivity which rises towards Drewsteignton Church, has evidently the appearance of a pass from the champaign country, to the uplands by the ford, which, doubtless, existed before the erection of the oldest bridge, at or near, where the picturesque arches of Fingle now span the rapid current of the Teign. Thus situated, Prestonbury was admirably calculated for a watch-tower, as well as a fortress ; and the strength of its entrenchments seems to indicate the importance attached to the position. The extremity of this inland promontory is the highest ground of the ridge, which on the south side is scarped down by nature in a precipitous rocky glacis to the river's brink. Nature having therefore so amply provided for the security of the fortress on this side, less was demanded from the resources of arty so that a rampart without any ditch, rising immediately from the pre- cipice, was evidently thought sufficient. But on the north, where there is a much gentler declivity landwards, the rampart is of a far more formidable appearance, forming an entrenchment, in some parts eight yards in height. The circumference of the circumvallation, taken along the crest of the vallum, is five hundred and twenty yards; and this part of the entrenchment, which maybe considered as a kind of keep, was defended by two parallel outworks, constructed MONUMENTAL lit I n 9. 51 the ridge of the lull. The ground decline slightly from the side of the keep ; and at sixty yards distance', the iirst of the outworks occurs — a rampart and a ditch crossing the ridge saddle- wise, and dying away in the precipice on the south. The next en- trenchment is thrown up at the distance of one hundred and twenty yards ; here the vallum is loftier and the fosse deeper. Beyond this line of entrenchment, the ground rises, till at the distance of about a furlong cast of the keep, or principal work, it is lofty enough to com- mand the fortified portion of the hill already described. At this point, therefore, wc find fortifications erected to guard the approaches, where the ridge gradually slopes eastward, and where easy access might be otherwise obtained by the enemy. But when the whole of the neck of land was thus fortified, ample means were afforded for preventing surprise and for maintaining a protracted defence, if necessary. Here then on the northern verge of our moorland region, may be observed a curious and interesting specimen of those strongholds, to which the Celtic tribes were accustomed to retreat in cases of danger ; for although such a post as this, would scarcely fail to be garrisoned by the troops of the successive occupants or invaders of the country, and might undergo some alterations, in the lapse of centuries, yet enough of the primary features remain, to enable the antiquary to trace the original fortifying of this remarkable hil!, to our warlike Danmonian progenitors. The monuments of antiquity, which have been thus far enume- rated, indie ate a rude and simple state of society, and may be reasonably traced to the requirements of a primitive people, suggested probably, degree, by the nature and abundance of the materials sup- plied by the surrounding district. The memorial of some compact lictwecn two reconciled tribes would probably be needed, and the neighbouring tor would alike furnish materials for another Jegar Sahadutha (Gen. xxxi. 47} — the heap of witness, — as well as for a memorial pillar, or for a conspicuous and durable landmark to define the limits of adjoining pasture grounds. Their villages would re- quire defence from hostile attack, or protection from the beasts of prey, with which the rocky slopes and swampy tliickets of the Forest abounded, and the unwrought bowlders of moorstone would readily form the Cyclopean fortification of Grimspound. Their religion 52 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. demanded open shrines, — and a circle of rude granite obelisks, guarded the primitive sanctuary from all profane intrusion. Or if we look beyond natural circumstances, and should conclude that there would appear to be more of premeditation and design, in the choice of their materials, and in the forms employed; it might thence be inferred t that the notions which led to their erection were not of indigenous growth, but were brought from other lands, by the original settlers. Since, also, points of resemblance have been observed between these monuments and such as are found in eastern countries, or are known to have existed there in the earliest ages, for purposes which are recorded, although they do not establish the hypothesis of the colo- nization of Britain from the east, they certainly favour an opinion which is also countenanced by tradition, and which no less than eight centuries since had assumed a shape sufficiently definite to be preserved in one of the most valuable documents of mediaeval times, the Saxon Chronicle, — which states that " the first inhabitants of this country were Britons, who having come from Armenia established themselves in the southern parts of Britain." The legendary fable of the voyage of Brutus, from the Mediterranean to the shores of Devonshire, his landing at Totness, and overthrow of his gigantic antagonists at Plymouth, however unworthy of credit as to details, deserve consideration, as indicating some substantial truths, just as shadows, however distorted and exaggerated, are proofs of an actual substance. And if there is any just foundation for the ingenious theories of Mr. Harcourt, that the Albion of Aristotle* (Britain) was one of the isles of the Blessed, of antiquity ; the fiaicaptay ytjaoc of Lycophron (according to Tzetzes), that the celebrated Atlantis may be more reasonably sought for in the British isles than else- where, — that it was here that the slumbers of the Titanian Kronos were guarded by the hundred-handed Briarcus, as reported by Plato, that the island which was the abode of Neptune, was Britain, f and * De Mundo, c. 3. t I question whether the composer of the once popular sea-song, ever imagined that he could boast such high authority as the celebrated Athenian philosopher for regarding our island as the contemplated residence of the god of ocean. Daddy Neptune one day unto Freedom did say — If e'er I< should live upon dry land, The spot I should hit on would be little Britain, 'Tis such a snug, tight little island. Ouru) e>) teat rr\v vijaov fWf/cW rrjy AWavril-a \aywv. — Plato Critias. JfTAL RELICS. 65 i [esperide* to which Hercules travelled to fetch the golden fax Juno, were also the same islands, since Apollodorus that the Hesperian apples were not in Libya hut at the Atlas, among the Hyperboreans, • — -then shall we conclude, that there is more cause fin believing that there existed a much earlier communication by sea, between our islands and the eastern shores of the Mediterranean, than has been generally supposed, and that this may have partly arisen from the circumstance of the original coloni- al the British isles having taken place by a voyage through aits of Gibraltar. The expedition of Brutus is alleged to have been undertaken about U 1100, B.C., and in the first century after the Trojan war, from which period, Britain is supposed to have taken its name from that successful invader. These legendary tales may preserve the memorial of a real descent, by some foreign chief, about the time in question, and appear to intimate that the invaders had to encounter the oppo- sition of a fierce and warlike people. Hence these traditionary legends evidently assume that this island must have been peopled (it may be presumed) for some ages, anterior to the reported landing of the Trojan adventurers in the estuary of the Dart, and their conflicts at the mouth of the Plym — both Dartmoor rivers, and therefore iden- tifying these legends with the vimue of this treatise. But it is far !G probable that the truth of these fables will be found in a Tyrian expedition, rather than in a Trojan, when impartial history,! regarding imant* with equal eye, (Tros, Tyriusre, nulla discrimine,) to decide the rival claims, since we are assured that the enter- prising traders of Phoenicia had brought tin by sea, from some VMrrn country before the time of Homer, and that it is not more ,i!"l-.li|i' that Brutus, a great grandson, of iEneas, ever made an ■ - Totness, and gave his name to Britain, than that he I'l'inild! the city of Tours, in Gaul, as gravely asserted by Geoffrey sf afotuiumth. Much less fanciful is the etymology which woidd ■ final designation of our island, with the learned Bochart, Swuues, and others, from two Phoenician words — Barat-anae, the tt if Ddw ii., 150, 151, 152, 1 for wlioliy ti-jcctiiiB." snya Etahnji X ii.'olson, " all thai is contained * tttl lkir,ry. believing there is aomcwb«t of Itutliin it, under a mifliij hrap of monkish liiA Uistor. library. LuudoD, 171-1, p. 37, land of tin, translated in after-times, by the Greeks, Cassite since it is so far supported by historical evidence ; as we learn from classical writers, that the Phtcnicians" were the earliest traders upon record, to the tin counties beyond the pillars of Hercules, in the Hyperborean ocean. The period being determined, about which the Phoenicians first visited Britain, we shall obtain some historical data for calculating the tera of the aboriginal relics of Dartmoor. We learn from antiquity with what jealous vigilance they guarded the lucrative monopoly of the tin trade. The account of the Phoenician shipmaster, who ran his vessel aground, to prevent his course from being traced by a Roman galley, and his reimbursement by his grateful countrymen, is well known. It is also recorded that the Greeks of Marseilles, who had been long anxious to obtain a share in this traffic, were at last successful in their attempts to discover the Cassiteridcs, which became known to them B.C. 330. But Herodotus, more than a century before, whilst he confesses his ignorance of the precise situation of the Cassitcrides, mentions tin, without any question, as the product of the extreme regions of Western Europe, with which he was unacquainted, f Tin was one of the commodities, in the fairs of Tyre, enumerated by the prophet Ezekicl, (B.C. 595,) and was known to the Jews in the time when Isaiah prophesied, (B.C. 760.) If there- fore tin was generally recognised by the common consent of antiquity, as a product of the Cassiterides, and an import of the Phoenicians, wo are carried back to the age of Homer, who mentions the metal as forming an ingredient in the manufacture of armour in those early ages of the world. But if, with the apprehension of an anachronism, in this particular, we hesitate to go back to the siege of Troy, i B.C. to 1200,) there can be no difficulty in admitting that a v from the Levant to Britain might have been accomplished i remote a period as about one thousand years before the Chi (era. The learned Heercn fixes the flourishing period of Tyre and the Phoenician states, from 1000 to 332 B.C., nor does it seem * 1SULi>i> Nicolwn con temp luoualy dismisses iho speculations of Sammes about "thi! Plitrmcians his only darlings ;" but subsequent rciearcbes of the learned Lare shown that opinions which have been entertained from the times of Nennius. and were ndtocnted by liuchitrt, nrc not to be summarily disposed of, without investigation, as the buielcss rctcries of an enthusiastic, but ill-informed antiquary. t " Neither am I acquainted with the Cassitcrides Ishinds from whence tin coma tons."— Hebqd. Thalia tii., 115. Gronov. Jironism, jy, (1190 ,d .,'■ -, Christian MONUMENTAL RELICS. 55 without the bounds of probability to suppose, that their enterprising navigators possessed, even in those early times, the means, aB they doubtless had the desire, of extending their policy, of foreign colo- nization, even to the remote isles of Britain. A prominent feature in that policy was the forming of their mercantile settlements on islands I peninsulas. We know that they pushed their discoveries, by coasting Africa, in a southern course, after passing the Pillars of Hercules. There does not therefore appear any sufficient reason for questioning the probability of their having (as early as the reign of David or Solomon) voyaged northwards along the coasts of Spain and Gaul, until they reached the islands of Baratanac, the country of tin. The aboriginal period of our history, characterized by the monu- ments above enumerated, may therefore be regarded as commencing before the arrival of the Phoenician mariners, and as extending over the time when the tin trade was carried on by them, and subsequently by the Phoca? an -Greeks, from Marseilles, previously to the invasion of the Romans. Among those relics, examples of two kinds of for- i have been mentioned. Such as that of PreBtonbury, evi- dencing more artificial preparation than the simple circumvallation of Grimspound, may with great propriety be assigned to a period when the rudiments of barbarian castrametation had been improved by intercourse with the classical nations. But proofs of the presence of ihoe enterprising navigators may be traced with far more certainty in the vestiges of works, — more congenial to the commercial spirit of lot merchant-princes of Tyre and Sidon, and more germane to the news with which they dispatched their argosies, to brave the terrors of tin.' Hyperborean Ocean, — in the remains of primitive mining operations, which are still to be found in various parts of the moor. Polwhele remarks that the parishes of Manaton, Kingstcignton, «d Teigngrace, present examples of these antient works* The two «Kr he beyond our moorland district, towards the estuary of llcTeign, but the former is one of the border parishes of the Forest, tad contains many of the remains in question ; which, although it is e to assign them any date, with even an approach to histo- ry nothing of Cornwall, there Me numberless stream worka on Dartmoor - '~ilies, which have been forsaken for opes. In the parishes of Mannlun, a, »nd Teigngrace, are many old tin-works of this kind, whifcb the iiiliabi- e to thai period when wolves and winged serpents were no strangers to the -Hittor, Fievis of Dtvon, p. 110. 56 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. rical certainty, have been generally conjectured to be the relics of British operations, under the direction of the Phoenician traders. Speaking of these primitive stream works, Polwhele goes on to observe that " the Bovey Heathfield hath been worked in the same manner. And indeed all the vallies from the Heathfield to Dartmoor bear the traces of shoding and streaming, which I doubt not was British or Phoenician." Not only in the parish of Manaton, but in those of Chagford, Walkhampton, Sheepstor, and Lydford, (the Forest,) have I noticed many similar remains, all in situations favourable for the peculiar operations of streaming. And without controverting the opinions of our zealous antiquary, that some of these may present veritable examples of forsaken mines of the British and Phoenician period, we cannot suppose that of all the vestiges of these antient works, none are to be assigned to a later age. The nature of the case would rather suggest the inference, that as mining operations have been carried on in our county from the times of the Phoenicians downwards, so the existing relics, if discrimination were possible, would be attributable to different adventurers, and to successive ages and generations. Leaving those speculations therefore in the obscu- rity and uncertainty wherein time has enveloped them, and which can never be dispelled, let us proceed to collect the few scattered rays of light which antient history casts upon the mining operations and commercial transactions of the period in question, as far as they come within the plan of the present treatise. Britain had long been regarded as isolated from the rest of man- kind, no less by its remote and insular position, but by the fierce and intractable character of its inhabitants — toto divteos orbe Britannos. The jealous policy of the Phoenicians would doubtless be directed to foster this opinion as much as possible, to which they themselves had probably first given currency, from the desire of preserving in all its integrity their much valued monopoly of the British commerce. Hence as we have 6cen in the case of Herodotus, little was known by antient authors on the subject of the Cassiterides, beyond the fact of their existence, amidst the fabled horrors of the Hyperborean sea. But after the Greeks of Marseilles had succeeded in obtaining a knowledge of the country, and a share in its valuable trade, the philosophers and historians of antiquity had the means of acquiring some information, on a subject of no little interest, which at no distant MONUMENTAL RELICS. 57 period, were further enlarged by the invasion of Ca?sar. The late Smcoe, u recorded hy Polwhelc, accurately applies Caesar's notice of the metallic productions of Britain to Devonshire and wr. "When Ciesar, speaking of Britain, says Naacitur Hi plumbum album in Mediterranets regionibm, in marilimts feiTum, sed ejus exigita est copia, he elucidates our western history. To Ciesar it appeared that tin came from the inner country."" Under the general appellation of the midland or rather, perhaps, inland parts, Dartmoor must have been included, as well as the metalliferous districts of Cornwall, since we have abundant testimony, as already shown, that the south- western angle of Britain was the principal scene of antient mining operations. But CVsar, relying on hearsay evidence, collected probably in Kent, had been evidendy misled as to the exact situation of the principal tin mines ; some of which, even in our moorland district, were too near to the coast, to be correctly described as existing in the interior. "With regard to iron, his obser- vations are borne out by the presence of that valuable metal at Shaugh Bridge, on the southern verge of the moor, within six miles of the sea. The Greek historian, Diodorus Sicutus, who nourished about 40 B.C., enters more into detail, and lias recorded some particulars of antient mining operations and the tin trade carried on, in the southern parts of Britain, of the most interesting character, lie incidentally notices that the soil of the tin country was rocky, but had soft veins of earth running tlirough it, whence the metal was extracted. He also describes the principal tin mart, in a celebrated passage which has exercised the ingenuity, and divided the opinions, ' Bsive commentators and antiquaries. Describing the smelting of tin, by the Britons, he says, " When they have cast it into ingots they carry it into an adjacent island, which is called Iktis. For when it is low water, the intervening space is left dry, and they carry into that bland great quantities of tin, in waggons." Henry, the his- torian, as well as Whittaker, misled probably by the name, hastily • "The original ro.id by which this tin rvns conveyed, rtiould \«- an object of your lnwsligalion; and probably you will lied it carried over fords and farming towns in its MOgTMt between Dartmoor, and where Sir R, Woralcy now trFices il 10 have entered ilio We of Wight. On these fords, too. you will probably find a Roman Settlement, and uot ^posmhly, account for Crockem Tor, Chagford, &c.. haying been formerly places of •amine*." — Gen. Smcoe to Re». R. Polwhele. Hittor. yieitiof Dtvon, p. III). 1 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. conclude Iktis to be the Isle of Wight, without considering the insuperable difficulties which this hypothesis presents.* And since, among other speculations as to the real position of this island, Polwhelc has assigned it a site which would constitute it the em- porium of the aboriginal Dartmoor stannaries, his exposition of the curious and interesting passage of Diodoms, as far as it bears upon our local antiquities, deserves consideration. After disposing of the arguments of Whittaker.t Borlase, and Pryce, in favour of the Isle of Wight, Scilly, and Falmouth, Polwhelc enters into an elaborate and ingenious disquisition to prove that the much-controverted situation of Iktis, is to be found in Plymouth Sound. Without referring to extraneous points, it will suffice to advert to those bearing upon our subject. The same objections which militate against the adoption of the Isle of AVight as the stannary emporium of the south-west, lie in a great degree against Scilly, or even the Black Rock islet, at Falmouth, with relation to Devonshire ; whereas the geographical position of Plymouth Sound, at the mouth of two navigable rivers, running down from the heart of the tin districts of Devon, and those of East Cornwall, would offer facilities, common to both counties, which no other place presents. We can also comprehend the sending of tin from the western districts, to an emporium higher up the Channel, which had already become (as is highly probable) an exporting place for its own neighbourhood ; but we can hardly imagine it probable, that tin from Dartmoor and Hingston Down, would be sent so far west as Falmouth, and still leas, • If the antient Vcctis were the island mean! by Diodorui, the improbable pos- tulate is indispensable, thai the massive met it 1 must have been brought to the ihoicsof Hampshire, opposite to the Isle <>f Wiplit, from the south of Devon and the extremiucfl of Cornwall, (Bctsrium,) either by land or by sea. If by land, the vehicles as net) as the roads of our aboriginal ancestors, must hare been in a slate of advancement for which few would be prepared to give them credit. If by sea, the argument requires that Ihcse antient traders should have shipped their tin on the coasts of Daumoninm, and then steered up the channel to some port of the Belgic Brilona, opposite to the Isie of Wight, on the coast of Hampshire, where they landed their cargo, as it would seem for the mere pleasure of having it transported across the strait, in waggons, {when the chan- nel became dry, if ever it did, nt the ebbing of the tide.) instead of adopting the more obvious and direct method of landing the tin, immediately on the island, even if they did not make directly for the coast of fiaul, from their original port, which would more prabably have been the course adopted. t Borlnse confesses himself at a loss to have been the largest of the Scilly Isles, and idenlici Pryce discovers it in the Black Hock, in Falmouth Harbour; Polwhele claims the honour for St. Nicolas' Island, in Plymouth Sound ; and Hawkins, in his " Tin Trade of Cornwall," pronounces that it is St, Michael's Mount, in which opinion he is followed by Dr. Barham, Da la Heche, and others. MONUMENTAL REMCS. as Scilly, to be shipped for Brittany, in its way to Marseilles. The position of Plymouth, with reference to the parts where the metal was raised, as well as to the country for which it fw to be shipped, is thus far favourable to the claims of St. Nicolas. But there is one objection to this theory which has been overlooked by its advocate. Diodorus intimates that the metalliferous district, which he describes, is in the neighbourhood of the promontory Belerium. If by this, we are to understand the Land's End, as is generally supposed, we should be scarcely justified in allowing the expression, Kara to ai-pwrijpioy to taXoifiyoy BMptov, « raruirovtrfc, so wide a scope, as to embrace Plymouth Sound; unless we should conclude that this is another instance in which the imperfect geographical knowledge of the Greeks cannot be relied upon. It might then be supposed that the Belerium being a striking object to the navigators, and some tin mines being observed by the Greek traders in its neighbourhood, in such a general des cri pt i on as that of our historian, other mining districts, though at a considerable distance, might possibly be included. And whilst we should infer from natural circumstances, that the products of the rtannary districts on both sides of the Tamar would be exported from the mouth of that river, we arc fortunately in possession of unques- tionable historical evidence, that this noble and convenient roadstead vas known to the Greeks, at the period under consideration, by the appellation of Ta^ipuv hpo\>! — Tamari Ostia of the Bomans, wd thus far might have been the scene of the famous emporium of Diodorus. But should we advance a step farther with Polwhele, and fix upon St. Nicolas' Island," as the very spot, an obstacle of great local importance, which appears to have escaped his notice, imme- dately presents itself. He supposes that the isthmus, over which, & die i'bb, the tin waggons passed, lay between the island and Mount Edgcumbe ; and that in the reef of sunken rocks, known to 4is day, as the Bridge, may be found the remains of a neck of land "Me passable at low water, but since swept away by the action of the * Budon i> of opinion that Uii§ island ma; have been mentioned under the name or "JMrwurih. upwards of a thousand years ago. " In the Saxon's Heptareby, this jf™ 1 * (Plymouth) was called Tunerweorth, (as ia to bo read in the life of St. Indiactus), * 81 Kicolas' Island be col meant thereby; for Weorth, in Saxon, is B liter island. Wttd describes this islet, as " lying at the moulhes of Tnmar and Plym rivers," but "* 'is possessing, in his time, any of the peculiar characteristics of 60 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. waves. That the sea has encroached upon the land in many parts of our island, is a fact too well known to admit of dispute ; but in Plymouth Sound, the converse appears to have taken place, from a fragment of raised beach which was laid open some years ago, under the Hoe, opposite St. Nicolas' Island, and from the well-established historical fact that, in past ages, the tide flowed up from Millbay over the marshy plain between Plymouth and Stonehouse, so that the channel between the island and the mainland was probably much deeper 2000 years since, than it is now, and the possibility of the existence of an isthmus, over which waggons could pass at low water, scarcely imaginable. But even if such a means of communication had existed, the slightest acquaintance with local circumstances, would immediately show that this islet must have been most inconveniently situated for the purposes in question. The tin waggons from Dart- moor could never reach it without first crossing the wide estuary of the Tamar ; and those from Hingston Down,* and the Cornish side of the river, in general would have to approach the peninsula of Mount Edgcumbe by a circuitous and incommodious route. But although these objections appear fatal to the claims of St Nicolas, in particular, they do not in the least apply to Plymouth Sound in general; and taking into consideration the acknowledged retro* cession of the sea, from this coast, we may perhaps look with better success, for such an island as Diodorus describes, to the site of Plymouth itself. Feeling persuaded that the advantages of such a port, as must have existed at the mouths of the Plym and Tamar, could not have been overlooked, either by the Phoenicians or Massilian Greeks, I think it must be conceded that in all probability, the ore raised in the neighbourhood would be sent down to that point on the Plymouth coasts, which at that period was the most favourable for embarkation. And if the sea has receded from the inlets and creeks * That this district was the scene of antient mining operations, may be gathered from a popular tradition current in the time of Carew, no less than from the evidence afforded by the present appearance of this conspicuous hill. " From Plymouth Haven," writes the old Cornish Chronicler, " Hengsten Downe presenteth his waste head and tides to our sight. This name it borroweth of Hengat, which, in the Saxon, signifieth a Aom, and to such daintie beasts, it yieldeth fittest pasture. The country people hare a byt- word, that Hengsten Downe well y wrought Is worth London town, dear ybought, Which grewe from a store of tynne, in former times there digged up. M — Caabw*s Surrey of Cornwall, MONUMENTAL RELICS. 61 |he harbour, to the extent that some have imagined," an island answering to all the conditions required, might be found in Plymouth Hoe, and in the parts adjoining, separated at full tide from the rising ground, north of the present town, but connected with it at low water by the dorsal tract, which, amidst the chances and changes of twenty centuries, still exists in the direction of Old Town, sloping on one side to the Frankfort marshes, and Millbay, and on the other, to Sutton Pool. Or if it should be deemed, that we have no sufficient data for concluding that the water ever reached so high a level, as must necessarily be presumed, if the Hoe were originally an island, there con be no reasonable doubt that the corresponding hill on the opposite side of Catwater, was once insulated by the union of the waters of the Lary with Sutton Pool, and that Catdown would probably then, at low tide, be approachable by an isthmus, not unlikely lying, in the same direction, as the old lane leading from Tothill to Catdown. The same rise of tide which in old times flooded the Plymouth marshes and brought the sea to Frankfort Gate, would abundantly suffice to cover the comparatively low ground between e Lary and Sutton Pool. Thus if the reference to Belerium could ; satisfactorily explained, f an island would be found in all other respects, answering with singular exactness to the description of Diodorus, and most conveniently situated for the Danmonian miners bring their metal from the interior, for shipment to Gaul, for Marseilles, or, in earlier times, for the Levant direct, by the Straits br altar. But whether the claims of Plymouth to the disputed honours of ;tis be allowed or not, it can scarcely be questioned that trans- * Modem geologists assert, that in past ages the shores of the English Channel re been raised forty or fifty feet ; and if, according to a lute statement of the learned tuuui professor. Dr. Forctiouimer, before the ficitish Association, the disruption of igland from the Continent occurred not more than £500 or 3,000 years ago, we could r*»dily imagine that last changes must have taken place, along the whole iinc of the rout, from the Land's End to toe Kore, even if we bad not direct testimony to thefket- t If the term Cassiterides included all the tin country of the western peninsula. Might not BtUrium have been the Greek appellation for the Roman Jvgum Ocrinum, (the itainoua ridge reaching from Dartmoor to the Land's End), and the name of the onlory, in which it terminates, put by synecdoche, for the whole chain ? Were hypothesis tenable, "the dwellers below the promontory called Belerium" of .oni!, might be fairly interpreted us describing the inhabitants of the mining districts the south coasts of Devon and Cornwall. Or, since the informants of Diodorus 'Iwbly made the Land's End first, in their voyage, they might hare termed the country itwaxri, the coast •' below Belerium ;" if so, the term might hare included, as above, U Ibt maritime inhabitants of the stannary districts of Dnnmoniorn. actions similar to those described by the Greek historian, from the very force of circums lances, must have taken place at some part of the shores of Plymouth Harbour. The contrary supposition, that wiili every facility for exporting the metal, raised almost on the very coast,* the traders should have conveyed the ponderous commodity by waggons to some distant port, is too absurd to be admitted. If the Dartmoor miners then, had not the identical Iktis, at the mouth of their rivers, and in sight of their southernmost hills, they had doubt- less a similar emporium on their shores, and the interesting des- cription of the maritime Britons, may be fairly applied to the Danmoniaus, of the neighbourhood of Tamari Ostia, as well as to the other trading inhabitants of the Cassiterides. " The inhabit. in is of that part of Britain, below the promontory called Belerium, are exceedingly hospitable, (fiAcfo-or, fond of strangers,) and on account of their intercourse with foreign merchants, arc more civilized in their habits of life."t With reference to the existence of some kind of emporium on the coast, at a convenient distance from the mining districts of Dan- monium, it may be further observed, that the place known to the Greeks by the name of Tamara, had obtained sufficient celebrity in antient times, to be mentioned by Ptolemy, among the few places which his scanty information enabled him to enumerate on the Danmonian shores. This could scarcely have arisen from any other cause, thau the natural advantages of Plymouth Sound, — its con- tiguity to the stannary region, and the consequent growth of an emporium for the staple commodity of the country, at some con- venient spot, in the parts adjacent. Had there been no direct * The tidal waters of the I'lym arc known to have flowed, in former times, over great part of the Saltrum marshes, towards Plymplon St. Mary church, so thai tin mining ground, near Henicrdon, Newnhajn and Boringdon Park, was much nearer lo the estuary than at present. + It is not impossible that the precincts of Dartmoor, may hare supplied materials for the dockyards of Greek uaval architects two Ihousnnd years ago. Polwbele has noticed a circumstance which is worth observing. " That famous ship which was built at Syracuse under the direction of Archimedes, is at once a proof of the proficiency of the Greeks in the maritime arts, and of their connexion with Britain. According to Athemcus, Lbs ship had three masts, of which the second and third, were costly procured; but it was long before a tree for the mainmast could be found. At length a proper treo ««• discovered, in the mountains of Britain, and brought down to the sea coast by r> famoua mechanic, Phileas Tauromenilei. This is a curious fact. And the mountain! of Britain, I coDccive, were the mountains of Danmoniuui. Id other parts of the island the Greeks had very slight connexions. It was with Daumonium they traded." — Hit. i'ieu; 14S. MONUMENTAL EF.LICS. etidonce of the existence of such a port, nature would have indicated, that as a roadstead like Plymouth Sound, and such harbours as Hamoaze and Catwatcr, could not have escaped the notice of the Phoenician and Greek traders, so the circumstance of their resorting there, for purposes of traffic, would naturally lead to the gradual of some kind of port, of greater or less consequence. But having the testimony of Ptolemy, to the existence of a town in the neigh- bourhood of the Tamar, it is no longer matter of conjecture or inference, hut an historical fact, that such a place near the coast of Duunonium, was known to the Greeks and other classical nations, in the age of Ptolemy, and in all probability long before. Nor is it lev certain, that with the sole exception of Isca, (Exeter,) we can fii the situation of Tamara with more accuracy, than any other of the Dmraonian towns and places enumerated by Ptolemy. Its name identifies it with the banks of the Tamar, and, most probably, with the immediate neighbourhood of the estuary, since this author men- tiunj, borh Tafiapov *ora/tov tc/foX?, (Tamar Mouth,) and Tamara. Guided by the landmarks of nature, and the evidence of etymology, many antiquaries have agreed, that the anticnt Tamara is to be sought it in the modern Tamerton ; a conclusion at which those who are wt acquainted with local circumstances, will scarcely fail also to iniTc, although others, with Horsley, have supposed it to be Saltash. Dr. BorIa.se, referring to Ptolemy, says " The third city is Tamara, I "tin- h the name of the river Tamar, is too strong to he questioned, wd Tamerton, on the eastern bank of the river, lies almost opposite to Saltash, and must have been the place." Polwhele, venturing, on 'fry Blender and questionable authority, to divide antient Dan- Be-aium into cantredg, (which he says, gave rise to hundreds,) finds the principal town of the cantred of Tamara in Tamerton or Plymouth. Without adopting this author's fanciful opinions, on the subject of Ida supposed cantreds, we may conclude that there was a district rf wme extent, known by the name of Tamara, comprehending, Mips, the tract of country hounded by the Tamar, the Dart- *w Kills, the Plym, and Plymouth Sound ; and that within «** boundaries, at the village of King's Tamerton, in the parish of the true site of the Tamara of the antients, will pro- ud, opposite to Saltash, on the Roman road to the ferry, »q from its commanding situation, in full view of the estuary of the 64 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Tamar, (Ta/xdpoi/ kjSoX^,) and therefore a situation likely to be fixed upon, by the Danmonian Britons or the Phoenician traders. Since Diodorus describes Britain as a populous island, (iroXi/avfl/Nrfxoc vrjvoc) we may justly conclude, that this description must have applied to that part of the country, concerning which he had received the most accurate information, viz., the metalliferous districts. Hence we infer that the south of Devon, before the Roman sera of our history, was inhabited by a numerous population ; — that on the coast, at the mouths of the rivers flowing down from the hilly country, where the staple commodity of the island was raised, there would be smelting establishments, and ports for the shipment of the metal by foreign merchants ; — that the maritime inhabitants, from their inter- course with these traders, became comparatively civilized, and pro- bably adopted many foreign practices and opinions, whilst the dwellers of the interior retained their nomadic habits, and preserved their primitive superstitions, amidst the Forest wilds and rugged steeps of Dartmoor, as Carrington soothly sings, These silent vales have swarm'd with human life, — These hills have echo'd to the hunter's voice,— Here rang the chase, — the battle burn'd, — the notes Of Sylvan joy at high festivities, Awoke the soul to gladness ! Dear to him His native hill, — in simple garb attired, The mountaineer here rov'd ****** 'Tis said (hat here The Druid wander'd. Haply have these hills With shouts ferocious, and the mingled shriek, Resounded, when to Jupiter upflam'd The human hecatomb. The frantic seer Here built his Sacred Circle ; for he lov'd To worship on the mountain's breast sublime — The earth his altar, and the bending heav'n His canopy magnificent. The rocks That crest the grove- crown'd hill he scoop'd to hold The Lustral waters ; and to wondering crowds And ignorant, with guileful hand, he rock'd The yielding Logan. COSDON BEACON. 60 Pound, and, with the exception of a small portion of the circum- ference, in a remarkably perfect condition. The area inclosed by it, is boggy ground, although it is very nearly on the highest part of the mountain on which Cosdon Beacon stands, at an elevation of 1792 feet above the level of the sea. This far-famed beacon bears nearly due south from Belstonc church, and was long thought to occupy the loftiest spot in Devon- shire, and consequently in the south of England.* But from obser- vations made since the Ordnance Survey, it has been ascertained that Yes Tor, about eight miles to the west, is the highest point of our Dartmoor range ; but Cosdon, apparently, has the advantage, from rising immediately, without any intervening high grounds, from the lowland country at its base. From this circumstance, it has more the appearance of a true mountain, than any other of the Dartmoor hills, though Mister cannot be regarded as a rival of mean pretensions, seen from the gorge of the Walkham. The cairn is about ninety yards in circumference, and appears to have been opened in two distinct places, where there arc hollows of considerable size ; but for what purpose, these hollows have been dug, does not appear, unless with the view of forming a kind of hearth for the reception of the fuel of which the beacon fire was made. Few places could have been chosen more admirably adapted for the purpose of rousing the whole neighbourhood than this, where can sweep three-fourths of the untire horizon, and look forth upon the greatest part of North Devon, with large portions of the western and eastern districts of the county, and sonic of the loftier poults of Cornwall, Somerset, and Dorset. Exmoor looms large and distinct in the north, and it is said that the Bristol Channel can be seen in a clear day, which is perfectly possible, while there is no doubt that the English Channel, off Teignmouth, is distinctly visible. Imagine then, the bale-fire kindled on this commanding eminence. I ley tor, which rises full in view against the south-eastern sky, would instantly catch the intelligence, and repeat the signal to Buckland Beacon above Ashburton, whence it would be as speedily comrau- to Brent. Brent would report to its neighbour the Eastern 66 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. great mail road from Exeter to Okehampton and Cornwall, which sweeps round the very base of Cosdon HilL Here an unpretending but convenient inn affords accommodation, such as may well content the moorland tourist, bent on exploring the " wild and wondrous region" extending beyond the mighty eminence, which towers so majestically above the village nestling among the thickets, that fringe the rocky channel of the Taw, here issuing forth into the champaign country, from a noble mountain gorge. "Without pausing to ascertain the exact position of Hoga, let it suffice that it must have been suffi- ciently near to Cosdon, to authorize our making Sticklepath the starting-point of our Forest perambulation. Proceeding along the high road up the ascent from whence the village derives its name,* at its western extremity, we notice on the left hand, hard by the way-side, and on the verge of a rocky common, the shaft of an antient cross, formed of the durable granite from the neighbouring mountain. It stands nearly six feet high, is about eleven inches in thickness, and has its sides rudely sculptured in curves, lines, and crosses, with little regularity of design ; and which having been much defaced, by the weather or by violence, are scarcely discernible, unless the sun shines full upon the shaft Adjoining the cross, a path winds away into the upland gorge, formed by Cosdon on one side, and the Belstone hills on the other. Looking down upon the windings of the Taw, with the mill and the cottages peering through the trees, on its banks, we are strongly reminded of some of the softer features of Welsh scenery in similar situations. A rugged path through broken ground, high above the river's western bank, leads to Taw Marsh, a plain of considerable extent, and remarkably level, dotted with huge masses of granite and surrounded by lofty eminences, with all the features and incidents characteristic of the peculiar scenery of the moor, t Here is one of the spots where the evidences of some mighty convulsion of nature, strike the beholder with astonishment, and carry irresistible conviction to the mind. The characteristic tors of Belstone, cresting the rocky hills on the west, their sides sloping down to the marshy level through which the Taw winds its way, are strewn with blocks and slabs of granite, * Stickle-path, the steep road, from Sticcle, (Sax.) steep and path. In the Devon- shire vernacular, we still retain the Saxon word ; a stickle roof, is a high-pitched roof. t See Plate — Scene on the Taw. lAH M.lltSH (|7 forming those aggregations of stone, which are known to the moormen by the name of Clatters,* a term expressive of their con- fused appearance. Among those may be noticed, near the river's brink, one of unusual size, and so singularly shaped, that it has been 'I by some to have been artificially reduced to its pretest . bat a slight examination is sufficient to prove that Nature alone has formed its rude outline, like a mimic gnomon of colossal proportions, and planted it firmly in the ground as if to mark the progress of the silent hours of the desert. Down through the rugged and precipitous glen on the south comes the Taw, white with foam, and hastening to sooth his ruffled waters in the level chanmi of the plain below. Here, in Taw Marsh, the philosophic observer may detect evidences of the existence of groves and woods, which oacc appear to have clothed the Vidhes and accUvities of the moor, to ■ far greater extent than at present. Deep in the antiseptic soil, here, and in similar situations, whence the peat has been removed, branches, trunks, and roots of trees, chiefly oak and birch, havo been frequently found, which on exposure to the air speedily acquire great hardness. The birch, as it is well known, delights in the moorland soil, nor is there any just reason for questioning that the trees thus exhumed, once flourished on the spot where they were afterwards submerged in the morass, having probably been gradually undermined by the saturation of the ground with excessive moisture. Leaving these speculations, and the boggy level, which has given rise to them, let us take advantage of the natural stepping- stones, which, during the summer, may be found in the wider parts of its channel, to cross the Taw, and scale the steeps of Cosdon, which rises abruptly from the eastern bank. Advancing, up the ascent, we shall soon look back upon Belstone church ; and taking its tower for a landmark, shall find the advantage of making for the beacon on the summit of the mountain, by shaping our upward course in a south-easterly direction. We shall thus also come upon one of those antient paved ways, in a state of good preservation, principally exhibiting the characteristics of the trackway, as described in the former portion of this work, but partaking somewhat of the • The Clatter is sometime* erroneously confounded with tlie Tors bul the In tin- Tmlura! lock, cresting the lit]), while the Clutter is the Collection of stones ptuniUcuoiuly together, along its declivity. 72 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. to the supply of water. The streamlet from Rayfcarrow flows, at ft short distance in its course, towards Pain's Bridge ; and, still nearer, ft tributary of the Teign rises immediately below Shelstone Tor. Both these streams wind their devious way towards Chagford, to unite with the Teign, in its southward progress, while within a few yards of .the former, a brook takes its rise from the roots of the Cosdon, and joiaft the Taw, in its course to the Bristol Channel in the north* One of these tributaries of the Teign may possibly be the Wotet? brook described in the perambulation, as falling into that river. Or it may be the stream which we shall observe in our progress m Endsworthy Hill, flowing in the hollow below towards Wallabrook, but this I am unable to ascertain. Above, on Shelstone and Ends- worthy hills, are cairns or barrows, placed, like most other sepulchral monuments of this description, on the crest of the eminences. Nearly due west from Endsworthy, Steeperton Tor and Hound Tor rise above the course of the Taw, but will scarcely offer attractions enough to draw us so far away from the interesting object which we begin to discern, after we cross Buttern Hill and descend the slope of ScorhiH Down, — the Sacred Circle already described. This is by far the finest example of the rude but venerable shrines of Druidical worship in Devonshire ; and although unnoticed by antiquaries or topographers, may successfully dispute the palm with many that have acquired historical celebrity, such as the circle at Castle Bigg, near Keswick, or that at Kollricht, in Oxfordshire. Scorhill* Circle, stands near the tor of that name, on the downs, west of Gidleigh Park, and at a short distance above the Wallabrook, at its confluence with the North Teign. The rugged angular appearance of the massive stones, of which this rude hypsethral temple is con- structed, forms a striking contrast to the Grey Wethers — the Sacred Circle — below Sittaford Tor, which arc of a squarer, and move truncated form. The two principal columnar masses in this granite peristyle, stand at nearly opposite points of the circle ; the highest rising nearly eight feet from the surface, and the other standing upwards of six feet. The lowest are about three feet high ; several have fallen, but twenty of these time-worn obelisks still maintain their erect position, and circumscribe an area of about one hundred * Qy. ? Scaur, q. d. Scaurhill. WATERS T(i». 73 GrI in diameter. There is no appearance of any central column or altar, and the whole of the inclosed area lias evidently been indus- triously cleared of stones, as the surrounding common, without the consecrated precinct, is abundantly strewed with the usual moorstone. Such., then, is the finest and most complete specimen of Druidical temples, or shrines, in Devonshire; and few spots could have been chosen more in accordance with our notions of the requirements of that singular system of worship, which, as we learn, from undoubted contemporary testimony, was carried to such a pitch of perfection in Britain, that the Gauls, who wished to be iuitiated into its most recondite mysteries, repaired to this island for instruction," as to the general university of the Druidical communion. Om course now leads to the Wallabrook, which flows at the foot of Scorhill Down. The means of crossing is afforded by one of the primitive bridges already described, consisting of a single slab of ponderous granite, fifteen feet long, nearly three wide, and twenty inches thick. Proceeding westwards, we shall cross the swampy flat between the Wallabrook and North Teign, and mount Wateni Hill to examine the singular tor, which forms so conspicuous an object on the northern extremity of the ridge. Watcrn Tor is one of the many remarkable natural conformations of the granite rock which will repay a more particular examination. It consists of a series of piles, rising from the ridge of the hill, the stratification of which presents the appearance of laminar masses, in a horizontal position. The two piles at the N.N.E. extremity, in one part, near die top, approach so closely, as to appear to unite, when seen from some points of view, leaving a large oval aperture in the tor, through which the moormen say, a man can ride on horseback. But on a closer examination, it will be observed that there is an interval of at least one foot wide in the narrowest part ; and in the widest, the piles ttand about eight feet apart, leaving ample room for man and horse to pass through. This aperture appears to have given rise to the name of Thirlstonc, f by which this part of the tor is known. The lesser of the two pdes, if viewed apart from the rest of the tor, is not Dinciplinn in Britannia reperla, fllver the hill, through extensive turf-tics, towards Sitta- ford Tor, we reach the circles popularly known by the name of Grey The circumferences of these circles almost touch each . They were originally constructed of twenty-five stones each ; remain erect in one, and seven in the other. The largest has been displaced and lies on the ground. It is a slab four feet nine inches wide, less than a foot thick, and must have originally stood out five feet high. Both circles arc one hundred and twenty feet diameter. ig eastward and leaving the North Teign on the left, 78 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. within two miles from Grey Wethers, we shall reach Frogymead Hill, adjoining Fenworthy. Here is another circle of a similar description but of smaller dimensions. Its diameter is sixty feet. The stones of which it is formed are twenty-seven, (about three feet apart,) still preserving their original position. The highest stands four feet from the ground. Leaving the South Teign, which flows near Fenworthy Farm, and proceeding northward, about a mile and half from Frogymead, we shall explore a cluster of remarkable relics, beginning with the Gidleigh Bock Pillar, called, in the Ordnance Map, Longstone, to which reference has already been made. The letters D. G. inscribed on two of the faces, show that this primitive obelisk has been used as a boundary stone in modern times ; but that it is a fine specimen of the genuine Maen Hir, of antiquity, there can be no reasonable doubt. (See plate.) It stands on the slope of a hill about a mile S.W. of Castor Bock, and is evidently in connexion with the avenues and circles, referred to in the former part of this work. The avenues, although presenting the same general features with those at Merivale, are in far less perfect preservation. If any of these parallelithons deserve the name of Cursus, which has been sometimes applied to them, from the supposition that they were designed as race courses, by our British forefathers, the Longstone Avenue certainly could not have been one. The ground is ill-adapted for the purposes of a hippodrome ; and, on the other hand, the con- struction and arrangements (as shown in the accompanying plate) are all indicative of its character as a Via Sacra, ox processional road, of Druidical worship, according to the Arkite ceremonial Beginning on the acclivity above Longstone Maen, the avenue passes over the hill, towards the Teign, in the direction of the great Sacred Circle, on Scorhill Down, above described. The Teign flows at the distance of about half a mile, and this avenue terminates in full view of another, near at hand, which runs down the declivity towards the river. At its southern extremity is a dilapidated cairn, the only example observed in the immediate neighbourhood. The avenue instead of being perfectly straight, as at Merivale and Stanlake, in the West Quarter, is, in some parts, slightly curvilinear. This is the only indication of an ophite feature, which I have been able to detect, in any of the Danmonian avenues ; and it is so slightly serpentine, r t t * 9 r r { 1 I,OXOSTO\E AVENUE. 711 yto warrant the conclusion, that the vestiges of a Dracontium, Serpent Temple, may here be traced. The avenue appears sud- denly to stop ; as it seems impossible to trace any connexion with another, whose course, if continued, would have made a right angle with the former. From its second commencement it runs nearly direct, and almost parallel to another, at a short distance down the declivity eastward. Of these avenues, tic eastern line could be traced only forty-one yards, but the western is one hundred and forty yards in length, taking its commencement in a circle, adjoining which is another Maen, lying on the ground, ten feet long. This avenue runs down the hill, becoming more and more imperfect, until it disappears, for a considerable interval. There is, however, apparently, distinct termination in two erect stones, which stand apart, although In the same line. Taking Castor Rock for our landmark, we Bhall now bend our ■ps northwards, and on the western acclivity of the hill from which that conspicuous tor rises, we shall notice an interesting specimen of the hut circle, or ruined habitation, surrounded by an external in closure. By the rnoormen it is well known as the Roundy Pound, id is situated near a moorland road which forms the boundary between the parishes of Chagford and Gidleigh. The inner circle, hich seems to be the basement of a ruined dwelling, is forty-five ards in circumference, Between this and the outer circle, which 5 ninety-six yards in circumference, an area is left, conveying the dea of a courtyard surrounded by a circular Cyclopean wall of great thickness, formed, like those in other similar examples, of granite uses rudely piled together. The door-jambs, which remain erect their original position, mark the entrance, and the whole presents i appearance of the dilapidated dwelling of a primitive sheep-master or Rock rises high above Chagford ; and standing on one .tposts of Dartmoor, forms a conspicuous object from a large bf North Devon, and consequently commands a varied and prospect. From Cosdon, in the N.W., to Maredon in the ages round a grand am phi theatre of moor and mountain. i Beacon, Yestor, "Watcm Tor, White Horse Hill, Icytor, and East Down, above Manadon, are all Hidden, the Blackdown hills, and Exmoor, PEEAMBTJLATIOH OP DARTHOOK. bound the view in the distant horizon. Chagford "lower town" arc seen on the slope below Middlcdown in front, \ rocky dells and sylvan wilds of Gidlcigh on one side, and tl and groves of Whiddon Park on the other. On Castor, is no rock-basin ; but on Middletor, a sin; on the same common, is a very perfect specimen, almost c form, and about six inches deep. One side of this tor over! least ten feet, and forms a massive granite canopy, under which the cattle frequently are seen to take shelter. Descending the hill towards Chagford, we pass over Teigncombe Down, where many trackliriis and other antient vestiges will be noticed. Teigncombe Common lane, through which our course now leads, may be noticed as a curiosity. Of all the approaches to the moor, by which turf, fil i are conveyed to the neighbouring farms and villages, and cattle driven, this is certainly the most extraordinary. It is difficult to con- ceive anything bearing the name of a road, less suited to the purpose than Teigncombe Common lane, which is nothing more than a gully between two hedges. The steep floor is bare granite, strewn with bowlders and stones of the same material, many of them dep there by the force of torrents rushing from the hills. I learn that in former years, all the turf for the supply of the immediate neighbour- hood was brought down through this lane, on packhorses, but since carts have come into general use, it is now only traversed by the sure- footed moor pony, or by cattle pasturing on the commons above. In our downward progress wc follow the course of the South Teign, through broken ground and little verdant crofts, so charac- teristic of the moorland borders, to Yco Bridge. Here the banks rise into steep cliffs, and form richly-wooded dells, at the bottom of which the stream hurries along, foaming over the rocky n of which the channel is formed. Just above Lee Bridge, is I junction of the North and South Teign, whose unili d from thence towards Holy-street, through the deep and rugged g which bounds Gidleigh Park on the south. Scarcely half a i above Holy-street, a tor rises near the river's brink on the south si called, by the country people, the Puckie, or Puggic Stone,' * For Ihe means of examining: this basin, as it can only lie readied by a la am indebted to the kindness or Mr. Nicolas Clampit, Ihe hospitable occupier o interesting old mansion at Holy-street, one of ihe Forest [ennuis. 1 was here st PrCKIE, OR PUGGIE STOJiF.. 81 celebrated for the large rock-basin, or pan, (as it is popularly called,) on its summit. The antiquary, trusting to local report, will be dis- appointed when, after having succeeded in scaling the rock, he finds that the characteristics of the genuine rock-basin, as described above, (p. 29,) are not sufficiently clear to enable him to pronounce, that this is not one of the examples, attributable exclusively to the operation of natural agencies. Although of large size, it is not of tfae usual circular form, nor do its sides display any decisive indi- cations of artificial adaptation. But if disappointed in the main object of his research, the explorer will be repaid for his escalade, by the commanding view he will have gained of the wild-wood glen down which the Teign rushes, foaming along its rock-bound channel, in all the youthful vigour of a mountain-born torrent. And if on his descent from the crest of the Puckie Rock , he will brave the difficulties of the rugged glen before him, and thread his adventurous path up i course of the North Teign, he will skirt the fine woodland scenery of Gidleigh Park, until he emerges upon the moor, amidst the countless granite masses which strew the steep sides of the declivity, or have been precipitated into the channel of the river, fhafVmg (he force of the headlong current for a moment, and forming i succession of miniature cascades. Among these, let us pause to remark a singular mass, lying near the right or northern bank of Ihe river, as we ascend the stream, which, had there been no other object of attraction, would repay the antiquary for his walk up this and romantic glen. This granite mass, approaching to an irregular rectangular form, ila north side is imbedded in the channel of the Teign, and rests •murm'ulir si ^PJttfime of an antienl quaa!", or hand-mill. It tiad be *• Holj.firefl farm, which Mr Clampit was engaged in d ™n uf a similar description, and odh, a perfect circle, ™ 'rem tho ipol at souie considerable depth below Hie wbicli appears originally lo have farmed half of a circle of eighteen si. There had evidently been a hole perforated in ihe centre. About two In diameter, and the appearance of the alone altogether, was that of part of the ■ftwtlone of an anlienl quaae, or hand-mill. It Eiad been dug out of a swampy spot draining. There were several c, with ft hole in the centre, depth below Ihe surface. If not parts of tho .- kand-niills referred lo in Holy Writ, (Is*. xlvii. 2, jER.iiiii.lt), M*ti. hit. i.iy used among the nations of the east, and doubtless known lo the "•Bicians, and to our aboriginal ancestors, I am at a loss to conjecture for what :■ ) could have been intended, if they really are parts of primitive ill '. then have we in our moorland dial net, not only numerous remains if d*ellitjc* of the original inhabitants, but n curious specimen of their domestic mii. The hole is rtactly similar to that described by Funbroke, an made in tho if I he latitats, for pouring in the corn. (Ens. Anlig., 3US.) He remarks •pecimetu are quite common, and refers to one figured in MonUaucon, 82 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. on two subjacent rocks, at an angle of about twenty-five degrees. The outline of the stone, above the surface, measures about thirty feet, and near the southern edge is a large and deep perforation, of a form so regular, that, at first view, it will scarcely fail to convey the idea of artificial preparation, and to warrant its classification among the granitic apparatus of the Druidical ritual. But a closer inspection will probably lead to the conclusion that natural circumstances, within the range of possibility, might have concurred to produce this singular conformation ; although, on the other hand, it is far from improbable, that advantage might have been taken of some favourable accident of nature, and, as in the case of the Logan-stone, art had perfected the operations of nature, and this remarkable cavity had thus been adapted to the rites of Druidism, for lustration or some other religious ceremonial; which is the tradition connected with this stone by the legendary chroniclers of the moor. But its present condition, (as it has no bottom,) precludes the possibility of its having been used as a rock-basin, except in some extraordinary flood, when the waters of the river might rise above the under surface of the block, and partially fill the cavity, so as to admit of its being appropriated to the purposes of a font, or lustral vessel. It presents the appearance of a cylindrical trough, hollowed out in the granite ; just three feet in diameter at the top, about two feet ten inches at bottom, and two feet eight in depth, with a con- vexity in the middle like a barrel. The outer side, towards the centre of the stream, is partially broken away, thus rendering the cylinder imperfect in that direction, leaving a curved breach in the southern face of the mass, about two feet high, and thus adding to the singular appearance of this curious relic, whether seen from the northern or southern bank of the river. When this breach might have taken place, and whether in past ages the bottom and side might not have been perfect, can, of course, be only matter of conjecture. Under these circumstances, or on the supposition that the river might occasionally rise, sufficiently high to fill the cavity, its being em- ployed for lustral purposes is perfectly imaginable. To this or some other Druidical ceremonial, it is traditionally supposed to have been appropriated ; and while this primitive font was so used for adults, the legends of the moor relate that a smaller one (which is supposed to have been destroyed) was resorted to for children. ,'«' TOLMEN, OR HOLED STONE. OO Without therefore pronouncing that this was never " a rock" which the Druid " scooped to hold the lustral waters," the antiquary will not fail to have suggested to his mind another kind of aboriginal relic, from an inspection of this curious memorial of by-gone ages. 'rom its present aspect, he will probably conclude that it should rather be pronounced a Tolmen, and if it really belong to this class of relics, the interest with which we shall regard it, will be much creased, as it is the only known specimen in Devonshire. It has itherto escaped the notice of topographers and antiquaries, and while uilech, Logan-stone, Grimspound, &c, are popularly known, id have been described in county histories and topographical and itiquarian works, this singular relic, unique in its character, and obscure in its destination, is known only to the oral topographers of c moor. The Tolmen, or Holed Stone, as the word, in Cornish, implies, found in Cornwall, in Ireland, and, according to Fosbrokc, in the Bast Indies. This learned antiquary describes the tolmen as a per- orated stone for drawing children through, and adults also; and adds two brass pins wero carefully laid across each other on the top edge of this stone for oracular purposes."* With reference to the ■eat Tolmen, at Constantine, near Penryn, Gilbert, in his History of Cornwall, observes that it seems probable that the aperture was an instrument of superstitious "juggle, and applied to the purposes of lurilication or penance, or for the removal of bodily disorders. "t the other hand, regards the tolmen as a rock idol. " There kind of stone deity, which has never been taken notice of other author that I have heard of; its common name, in and Scilly, is Tolmen, or the Hole of Stone." Besides the celebrated specimen at Constantine, he mentions one on St. Mary's iland, (Scilly,) at the Salakee Downs, and the other on the little isle Northwithce. All these, however, are huge masses resting upon natural rocks below, and leaving apertures beneath, but near' Lanyon, one of the same description as our Teign tolmen, (as I woidd enturc to designate it,) though incomparably less curious. It is escribed by Gilbert, as one of " three erect stones, on a triangular 84 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. plane." The tolmen " is thin, flat, and fixed in the ground on its edge ; it has a hole in the middle near two feet in diameter, from whence it is called, Men-an-tol, that is, the holed stone." This evidently however, is artificially set up, whereas, our Men-an-tol in the Teign, seems to have been placed in the bed of the river by natural agency. Mr. Harcourt unhesitatingly connects the tolmen with some recondite mysteries of Arkite worship, since, as he finds them in con- nexion with other Arkite monuments on Brimham Moor, near Pately Bridge, Yorkshire, he concludes they can leave no doubt of the reli- gious system to which they belonged. The description given of these monuments, by a writer in the Archsologia, would lead them generally to be classed as Druidical relics, strictly speaking, even if it be granted that Druidism is a more recent form of Arkite superstition. This account is quoted by Mr. Harcourt, and may be adduced in proof of the opinion above advanced, — that the holed stone of the Teign is a Druidical monument of the tolmen class. Among other relics, three tolmens are described. "One of them with an aperture through which a man might pass, and a rock-basin at each entrance; in another, the passage was three feet and a half across, and contained a rock-basin three feet in diameter. The excavation in the third, is little more than three feet square at the entrance, and runs in a straight direction no more than six feet ; but on the right hand side, a round hole, two feet only in diameter, is perforated quite through the rock to the length of sixteen feet. And from this form, it has obtained the name of the great cannon. A road has been made over a bed of rock on purpose to reach it, and the whole rock is ninety-six feet in circumference. Lastly he describes an assemblage of rocks which seem to have been a chosen spot for religious ceremonies : " here," says he, " we find rock idols, altars, circular holes, evidently cut in the sides of rocks, and passages between, for some sacred mysterious purpose."* The accompanying circumstances of the tolmen in the Teign are strikingly similar. The sacred circle stands at a short distance on Scorhill Down. On Middletor, near Castor Rock, on the other side of the Teign, is a fine rock-basin. Not far south-west is placed the Longstone Pillar, already described, in immediate connexion with the * Doct. Deluge, vol. ii., p. 509. CHAGFORD. 85 cursus or parallclithons, on the slope of the hill below Batworthy. Here then, as at Brimham Moor, wc find an assemblage of relics, " which seems to indicate a chosen spot for religious ceremonies ;** and here, as in the Yorkshire example, we find the tolmen in immediate connexion with other monuments of primitive character and incontes- table antiquity. Should the tourist, instead of proceeding up the glen from Holy-street, visit the tolmen, from Longstone and the avenues, he will find it, by following the course of the Teigu down- wards, at forty yards from the spot where the Wallabrook falls into that river, immediately opposite a new-take wall, which separates Batworthy from the moor, and which terminates on the southern bank, in front of the holed part of the stone. I have remarked that the assemblage of relics at this spot seems to designate it as a place dedicated, in past ages, to the celebration of religious ceremonies, the general nature of which it is not difficult to conjecture, although it may not be easy to assign to the different monuments the particular ceremonies for which they were originally designed. But the observation may he justly extended to a much wider scope, than the immediate precincts of the Teign tolmen. The whole neighbourhood is rich in Druidical and aboriginal relics, and if the antiquary wished to establish himself at a point where, as from a centre, he could, within a moderate circumference, have the means of inspecling a specimen of the several monuments of Danmonian antiquity, he could fix on no place more advantageously situated for the accomplishment of his wishes, than the pleasant little town of Chagford, where he will find homely but comfortable accommodation at a respectable inn, and be placed within reach of those various objects of antiquarian interest and picturesque beauty, with which liourhood abounds. Chagford itself, as an autient stannary and market-town, built on a pleasing acclivity, backed by the lofty eminence of Middledown with its jagged crest, — a prominent outpost of the granite range, — with the moor Btr etching away indefinitely in the distance, and the diversified vale of the Teign, directly in front, is well worthy of a visit. It presents some of the most interesting characteristics of our moor- land border-towns. There is an air of picturesque informality in its general appearance. Many of the houses are of moorstone — grey, antient-looking, substantial ; some with projecting porches and parvisc- BO PERAMBULATION OP DARTMOOR. room over, and granite-mullion'd windows, — like the hostelry aire: commemorated, — while a perennial stream, fresh from the bouring hills, and clear as that which flowed from the Blandui fount, speeds vivaciously along the principal street, through a < moorstone channel. The church, substantially built of native granite, with its sturdy steeple of the same durable material, — embattled porch with granite -groined vault, springing from low columns, with Norm an -looking capitals, — appropriately forms the central and principal object, among the simple buildings of this quiet, retired border town. The quaint little market-place, is in perfect keeping with the accompanying features of the scene. Standing apart from any great thoroughfare, the echoes of the Chagford hills are never awakened by the "twanging horn," nor its streets roused by the rattle of the stage-coach or royal mail. At the door of the Three Crowns, a postchaise is still, in the middle of the nineteenth century, enough of a phenomenon, to collect a group of rustic gazers. The public conveyance which maintains a periodical intercourse with Exeter, has not yet been dignified with the elegant euphuism of Omnibus. The carriage road from More ton to Okehampton and the north of Devon, passes over Eushford Bridge, about a mile from the town; but the roads and lanes leading to the adjacent parishes, hamlets, farms, and commons, are, for the most part, so steep and rugged, as to be ill-adapted for any vehicles, where springs form an integral requisite in the construction. Accordingly the methods of conveyance and transit, partake of the olden times, and are charac- teristic alike of the country and the inhabitants. Breasting a formi- dable ascent on the south, the road to Ashburton is much better adapted to the packhorse of the last century, than to the carts or waggons of the present day; while the upland track, — which the western traveller, to his no small wonder, is admonished, by a timely finger-post, to follow, as the road to Tavistock, — scales a precipitous hill, and would have been far more suited to the wary paces of the palfrey of the abbot of that antient borough, in by-gone days, than tn the poles and springs of the Broughams and Britschkas of modern, times. Instead of the convenient market-car of the lowlands, wo therefore observe, without surprise, that panniers maintain the ascendancy with the rustic dames of the neighbourhood; and the phenomenon of a double Itorse, with saddle and pad, or even the antiquarian curiosity of a pillion, may still be met with in the rugged and narrow by-ways of a district, where rural manners and old-world customs still linger, and find an asylum, which modern fashions ren- der every day more precarious and untenable. Among the patriarchs of the hills, the straight-breasted blue coat, (the relic and memorial of the "prentice suit, or the wedding garments,) made before the revo- lutionary innovation of lappels had been imported from republican France, may still be seen witli (but a much rarer occurrence) the shoe fastened with buckle and strap, a memorial of the days of " then- hot youth, when George the Third was king." In the market and at church, the observant eye will trace also, among the elder women, the vestiges of the fashions of their youth, in the carefully preserved red cloak, with its graceful and convenient hood, — the respectable looking, matronly silk bonnet, edged with black lace, and set off by the becoming mob cap of past generations. On a rainy day, the costume of such a matron will be characteristically completed by the umbrella, with which she protects her head-gear from the impending shower. The faded green cotton material ; the stout stick, with a few faint vestiges of original paint, the ring at the top ; the substantial whalebone ribs, enough to furnish forth a dozen of the flimsy pro- ductions of modern bazaars ; the absence of crook and ferule, (and every similar contrivance to make the umbrella perform the additional duty of a walking-stick ;) all characterise this as a specimen of original construction, and point to a time when the appearance of this useful invention, at a Devonshire church, would cause a general sensation in the congregation, and furnish more than a nine days' wonder to the whole neighbourhood. Many agricultural implements, which have quite disappeared in the more level districts, will stdl be found in the homesteads of the hilly country. In such a place as Chagford, the cooper, or rough car- penter, will still find a demand for the packsaddle, with its accom- panying furniture of crooks, crubs, or dung-pots. Before the general introduction of carts, these rough and ready contrivances were found of great utility, in the various operations of husbandry, and still prove exceedingly convenient in situations almost, or altogether, inaccessible to wheel carriages. The long crooks are used for the carriage of corn, in sheaf, from the harvest field to the mowstead or burn, — for the removal of furze, browse, faggot-wood, and other light materials. The writer of one of the happiest effusions of the h muse, with fidelity to nature, equal to Cowper or Crabbe, has intro- duced the figure of a Devonshire packhorsc, bending under tlip " swagging load " of the high-piled croo/is, as an emblem of Care, toiling along the narrow and rugged path of life * The force and point of the imagery must be lost, to those who have never seen (and as in an instance which came under my own knowledge, never heard of) this unique specimen of provincial agricultural machinery- The crooks are formed of two poles, about ten feet long, bent, when ■ Care pushes by them, o'erladen ttith crooki. — The Devonshirb Line, by the late Rer. John Marriott, same time Vicar of Broadcast, Devon. While I cud readily imagine that the identical lane which furnished the excellent author wilh his original sketch, may be found in the neighbourhood of Broailcliat, and while I could fancy that one bowery lane, in particular, leading towards Pollimorc, might have eat for the picture, yet there aie •o many of our moorland b order-] an ea which exhibit an eiact family likenes*. that every feature of a scene so faithfully depicted and bo felicitously applied, may be traced, in numerous instances, especially in the environs of Chagford, Uoreton, Ashburton, Flymp- ton, &c. The insertion of the entire piece, — bo happily illustrative of the peculiar feature* of Devonshire scenerv,— and which is much less extensively known than its merits deserve, will, I am satisfied, require no apology. In a Devonshire lane, as I trotted along T'other day, much in want of a subject for song, Thinks I to myself, 1 have hit on a strain, Sure marriage is much like a Devonshire lane. In the first place 'lis long, and when once you are in it. It holds you as fast, as a cage does a linnet ; Forhowe'er rough and dirty, the road may be found, Drive forward you must, there is no turning round. But though 'tis so long, it is not very wide. For two are the most that together can ride; And e'en then, 'lis a chance, but they gel in a pother, And jostle and cross and run foul of each other. Oft Poverty greets llir™ with mendicant looks. And Care pushes by them, o'erladen with crooks ; And Strife's graiing wheels try between them to pass, And Stubbornness blacks up the way on her ass. Then the banks are so high, to the left hand and right, That they shut up the beauties around them from sight : And hence you'll allow 'tis an inference plain. That marriage is just like a Devonshire lane. But thinks I loo, these banks, within which we are pent. With bud, blossom, and berry, are richly besprent ; And the conjugal fence, which foilids us to roam, Looks lovely, when deck'd with the comforts of home. In the rock's gloomy crevice, the iriglit holly grows; The ivy waves fresh o'er the withering rose, And the evergreen love of a virtuous wife, Sooths the roughness of cure, — cheers tie winter cf life. Then long be the journey, and narrow the way, I'll rejoice that I've seldum a turnpike to pay; And whate'er others say, he the last to compliiin, Though marriage is just like a Devonshire lane. ANTIENT AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. 89 green, into the required curve, and when dried in that shape, axe connected by horizontal bars. A pair of crooks, thus completed, is ■long over the packsaddlc, — one, " swinging on each side, to make the balance true." The short crooks, or cruhs, are slung in a similar These are of stouter fabric, and angular shape, and are used for carrying logs of wood, and other heavy materials. The dungpots, the name implies, were also much in use, in past times, for the removal of dung and other manure from the farm yard to the fallows or ploughlands. The slide, or sledge, may also still occasionally be the hay or cornfields, sometimes without, and in other cases mounted on, low wheels, rudely but substantially formed of thick plank, such as might have brought the antient Roman's harvest-load to the barn, some twenty centuries ago* The primitive contrivance for hanging the gates of the moorland crofts and commons, may also be seen in this neighbourhood. No iron hinge of any kind, nor gate-post is employed. An oblong moor- stone block, in which a socket is drilled, is built into the wall, from which it projects sufficiently to receive the back stanchion of the gate, while a corresponding socket is sunk in a similar stone fixed in the ground below, unless a natural rock should be found in situ, tuitable for the purpose, which is frequently the case. The gate, thus Mcured, swings freely, swivel- like, in these sockets ; and thus, from materials on the spot, without the assistance of iron, a simple, durable, »nd efficient hinge is formed by the rural engineer. The flail, f with its monotonous strokes, still resounds from the barn-floors of all our smaller farms, where economy or attachment to old usages, has prevented the introduction of the modern threshing- machine. Still more rarely is the old method of winnowing resorted 10 ; hut in a few instances the Windatoto may yet be seen, where the process is accomplished by simple manual labour, — the grain being i ! 'o the action of the wind, on some elevated spot, and passed though sieves, shaken by the hand, until " clean provender" is ' Tudaque Eleusins mntiis ToWentia plaustru.— Virg. Gtorg. 1. 163. These loo utljiiu anno into r supposes lo have hail wheels without apoits, Plnustra quorum roll ■ radiate, ted lyuipanorum, siiliilia tabulis. t In Deronahire, the band Lhresbing-inslrument is not known by itie Dame of flail. Wnocutar retains [he old Snxon word Tlirrscol, by metal ticsii Tnreahel, and. as in ■.spiraio in changed into d, makes it drabel ; so thor/ie, a Tillage, Dutch. In the Lancashire dialect they hare the same word. 1 ***it, (identical with .■M hMMd "i MU. do PERAMBULATION OF UAKTMOOR. produced, like that which was " winnowed with the shovel and with the fan"* on the hills of Judaia of old. In this primitive process, the memory of the method of separating the grain from the chaff, so common in our "county, forty years ago, (before the introduction of the winDowing machine,) is still preserved. When we construct our roads of iron, it may be justly said that we live in an iron age. Ploughs, harrows, and drags, wholly of iron, have superseded the timber frame-work of those implements, to a great extent ; but the old wooden plough may yet be seen on some farms, little if at all changed in its material parts from that which the Romans might have taught our rude forefathers to use, when they subjected the western angle of the island to then sway, and induced them to become husbandmen, even if they had not been previously brought to add this useful occupation to their more antient one of shepherds and herdsmen. The antiquary, versed in classic lore, will observe with interest, the striking similarity between Virgil's descrip- tion of the plough, in the reign of Augustus, and that which may still be seen in Devonshire, after a lapse of eighteen centuries. Continrjo in sylvis magna vi flexa domatur In luirim d enrvi formura accipit uirmts aralri. Hinc a stirpc pedes temo protentus in octo, Binai aures, duplici apiantur dentalin dorso. Geditur et tills ante jugo levis, altnque fagns, Stivaque, qafe curnis a tergu torqueat imos. Via. Georg. lib. , 174. The hurts, or beam, (though not always made of elm,) has still a slight curvature. The ear of the ploughshare, by which the sod is turned off from the furrow, — the stita, handle (or haul, vernacular) by which the plough is guided, — aud the yoke, (where oxen are employed, as is still often the case in Devonshire,] formed of the light alder, instead of the lime, or linden tree, which is not so common • Is. Xxiii. 21. Our winnowine sievo answers lo the shovel here mentioned, nnd w the fan, (Matt. iii. I'i) whieh, as Slmw (qnoled by Bliiuer, — Oriental Custamt. to], ir., ji. 'i'Jb) observes, is loo imiibersomi: n machine lo be thought ga its erection to the earliest periods of history, and connect it *'tu the artificial formation of the adjoining sheet of water, and the ; r action of the cromlech as noticed above. 102 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. I have before me the MSS. notes of Col. Hamilton Smith/ on these relics, after a visit to the spot, in which he remarks the appearances which presented themselves to our notice, and records the conclusion to which he had arrived, from a personal inspection. " The sheet of water, or dub, embracing a part of the sacred hill, and probably a sacred grove, having on one side an oblique com- munication with the water by a gradual ascent, occurs in other places, particularly in two similar monuments of Celtic origin, among the Savern hills and the Vogesian mountains, where altars, sacred inclo- sures, and consecrated pools of great depth occur as here. Forests surround them, as was no doubt the case also at Shilston. As for the sloping ditch, forming a road, it may have served for the covered coracle, containing the novice in his mystic regeneration, and second birth, to be drawn up from the waters to the mimic Ararat of Gwidd-nau." " Worship on high places," says Mr. Harcourt, " imitations, or at least memorials of Ararat — was a characteristic feature of the diluvian rites ;" and the same author has adduced a number of instances to show, that where natural hills or mountains contiguous to, or peninsu- lated by, water, did not occur, that the memory of the diluvian mountain would be preserved in artificial mounts and pools, such as Col. Smith supposes those at Shilston to have been ; where, as it has been shown, the artificial piece of water, (Dub ,fj is in immediate connexion with an artificial mound. The reasons for this, he traces to a traditionary recollection of the altar built upon Mount Ararat, by Noah, and to a supposed injunction of that patriarch to his descendants to construct their altars in such situations as would preserve the memory of that awful catastrophe, and that the cause of the deluge was the impiety of mankind. " Thus every high place devoted to religion, would become a sign or emblem of Ararat. * * * All indeed, who retained any reverence for the patriarchal precept, would avoid a long residence upon extensive plains, because it would deprive them of their hill altars. "When, therefore, the rebels of * The high reputation of a gentleman, so profoundly versed in antiquities, ethnology and the physical history of man, as Col. Smith, will not fail to ensure the greatest respect, for any opinion he may advance. f " Dub, in Ghaldee, is To flow." Doct. Del., vol. ii., p. 417. BRADFORD POOL. 103 Shinar, in opposition lo the Divine will, determined not to be dispersed, their leaders could not devise a more politic plan for keeping them contentedly in the plain, than by building an artificial mountain, to be their place of worship, that the name of the Lord might dwell there."* Our author further shows, from a variety of evidence, that " the mountain was honoured first as the throne of the avenging deity, and secondly, as the sanctuary of peace, which was first disclosed by the retiring flood. At the same time," he continues, " there is dis- tinctly visible on idolatrous disposition to transfer the glory of the Creator to the creature, either to the mountain or the man, which extended itself even to the remotest islands, scattered in the Pacific Ocean, and must therefore be admitted to exhibit, in the strongest light, the indelible permanence of its character, and the antiquity of its origin. Those," says the missionary Ellis, " who were initiated into the company of Areois, invoked the Mouna Tabu, or sacred mountain ; which, it further appears, is exactly like one of the mountains or mounds which were held sacred by the Celts, for it is conical, and situated near a lake, and what is most material to this enquiry, the natives have a tradition which shows, at once, the reason of its being Tabu, or sacred. The San dwic hers," says the missionary, " believe that the Creator destroyed the earth by an inundation that covered the whole earth except Mouna Koa, in Owhyhec or Hawaii, on the top of which one single pair had the good fortune to save themselves." f If, therefore, it should be questioned, whether the evidence of the existence of such a sacred mound and lake, J at Bradford Pool, as are above described, is sufficiently conclusive, it must be admitted that the widely-spread tradition of the deluge, in connexion with consecrated mountains, may jusdy be alleged as an argument in its favour. If the memory of that "overwhelming flood" is preserved at the antipodes, in our own times, it can scarcely be imagined that it had not reached oar Celtic ancestors, two or three thousand years ago, by means of their intercourse with the Phoenicians, even if it had not been • Docl. Del., vol. L. p. 149. t lb., vol. i., p. 378. I Among the legends of the neighbourhood, may be mentioned one, which relates, thai linn* ii a parage lineJ with Impe Mimes (high enough foi ii man to walk upright) bom thi* lake to the Teign, near the Logan-stone. 104 PER AM ROTATION OF DARTMOOR. brought hither by aboriginal settlers from the east. In that < specimen of our antient native literature, the Welsh Triads, we accordingly find an express mention of the deluge, in the account of the bursting forth of the lake, LI ion, by which the face of the earth was overwhelmed, and all mankind drowned, with the exception of a single pair, who escaped in a boat, and subsequently repeoplcd the island of Britain. The tradition of the deluge, being thus manifestly familiar t the primitive inhabitants of our island, it is far from improbable, 1 indications of its existence would be found in their religious rites » monumental relics. And if, as some antiquaries contend, c are Arkite cells, not only is plausibility added to the oonji which interprets the legend of the erection of the Drewsteignkiu cromlech, by three young men and their father, who came down from the heights of Dartmoor, as originating in an obscured and perverted tradition of Noah and his three sons, — but the probability of an Arkite character pervading the accompanying archaeological relics, is increased in proportion. Leaving these interesting speculations, we shall now proceed eastward, by the Drewsteignton road, to Stone Cross, the origin of which appellation we shall have no difficulty in tracing to the- fai- famed cromlech. Turning out of that road, at the cross, wo dull take the right hand lane, and passing by Stone Farm and Parford, shall reach Sandypark, at the crossing of the roads to Okefa and Moreton, Chagford and Exeter. Here, at the wayside U stranger may obtain directions for finding his way to the Logan-stune, should the route now indicated, be insufficient for that purpose, which, however, will scarcely be the case. The Moreton road from Sandypark will lead us directly to the bridge over the Tcign, within a furlong from the inn. We shall not cross the bridge, but shall follow a beaten path on the left, down the river, along the northern bank. Following the course of the stream, as it tlirough the meadows, we shall soon reach that point, where a rock- crcstcd headland rises abruptly above the little lateral vale of Coombc, on one side, and the wooded steeps of Whiddon Park press forward to narrow the valley on the other. Scarcely a quarter of a mile from tins point, by keeping close to the river's brink, on the north side, we shall discover the Logan-stone, already referred to in the ■ FINGLE BRIDGE. 105 description, (p. 26.) Should the explorer inadvertently follow a more accessible track, which winds along the side of the hill, at a short distance above the river, he may pass the Logan-stone without noticing it, among the numerous masses of granite, with which the channel of the Tcign is profusely strewed ; but by making his own path close to the brink, he will not fail to find the object of his search, rising boldly out of the bed of the river near the northern bank. It is an irregular pentagonal mass, the sides of which are of the following dimensions. Eastern, five feet four inches in width; northern, seven feet eight; north-west, six feet four; south-east, five feet four ; and the southern, towards the river, ten feet six. It is about seven feet and a half in height at the western corner. This huge mass rests on a single rock, and still loggs perceptibly, but very slightly, by the application of one man's strength, but the motion most have been much greater in former times, especially in those early ages when probably its nicely- adjusted eqiiipoisc was rendered subservient to the purposes of Druidical delusion. Proceeding down the river, we shall be greeted with some of the most striking vale scenery in the west of England. The course is a continuous succession of graceful curves ; the banks, on the south, or Moreton side, clothed with wood and heather, as high as the eye can reach, and on the Drewsteignton slope presenting abrupt and bare declivities, occasionally interspersed with craggy projections, beetling above our rugged but romantic pathway. In one particular spot, high in the abrupt declivity, two bold cliffs will be observed, jutting out from the lull, like the ramparts of a redoubt, guarding the narrow pass below. Lower down, the northern bank becomes wooded, and the path, proceeding through a tangled copse, at length emerges upon the Drewsteignton and Moreton road at Fingle* Bridge. Here let us pause on its narrow roadway — just wide enough for a single cart — to gaze from its grey moorstone parapet, on a scene, the general features of which may be recorded by the pen, bat of whose particular features of loveliness, the pencil alone can convey an adequate idea. Three deeply- scooped valleys, converging " Some topographers, misled by sound, ot aniious to impart an Ossianic character to tiic »noi, have spelt this wont— Fingal. Mr. Short! derives Fingla from Fyn, Cornish, ■ boundary, and Gelli, hazel. But oa* is the characteristic trea of this moorland boundary, and not hoztl. May not gill, the woll-known designation of a waterfall, ■snoog UM Comb-rim Celu, form part of the original word, which would then be Fingill ? to one point, — two at three little stripes of greenest meadow- occupying all the narrow level at the foot of the encircling hill*, — thf fortified headland of Prestonbury, rising bold and precipitous, iu rigid angular outline strikingly contrasted with the graceful undu- lations of the woody slopes which confront its southern glacis, — the mill at their base embowered in foliage, and the river, clear and vigorous, giving animation to the scene, without marring iu sylvan seclusion, — all combine to form a scene of surpassing loveliness, which it is a disgrace for any Devonians not to have visited, before they set out in search of the picturesque, to "Wales or Cumberland, or the Highlands, and, still more, before they make their continental peregrinations, Or by the lazy Scheldt or wandering Po, Or onward, where the rude Carinuuan boor Against the houseless stranger, shuts his door. Proceeding from Fingle Bridge, we shall now mount the adjacent hill towards Moreton, by a steep mountain road, at whose narrowness and ruggedness we shall not for one moment repine, since it retains enough of primitive simplicity, and freedom from modem improvement, to make the supposition perfectly credible, tliat it is the identical track, by which our aboriginal forefathers maintained a communication between Preatonbury fort and the champaign country beyond, and Cranbrook Castle on the crown of the hill above, and the moorlands of the interior. So steep is the ascent, that it can only be accomplished by a succession of zigzags ; and these, at the several angles, present the most favourable points for commanding the romantic scenery of the vale of the Teign below. At one of these elbows, about half a mile up the bill, the view is so striking that it would amply repay those who, perhaps, generally content themselves with the more accessible beauties of Fingle Bridge, for the trouble of the ascent. The road passes through oak copse, which shuts out all but glimpses of the surrounding scenery, until you reach this point, when a scene of singular loveliness bursts upon the sight. We look down upon the wooded glen through which the Teign winds his devious course from Chagford to Fingle Bridge. Five pro- jections of hills fold in behind one another ; the last, on the right hand bank, being the craggy ridge above the Logan-stone, and on the left, the wooded declivity of Whiddon Park. Imagine the morning ntal PEEBTONBUItV. 107 to be still, and partially overcast, (and to be seen in perfection, we should reach our point before the sun has passed the meridian), such a sky as we often have in August and September, when the " lazy clouds," pacing slowly along, throw one part of the landscape into dark shadow, while the other remains in uninterrupted sunshine. The narrow vale of the Teign, seen from this spot, thus enveloped in shade, seems to sink deeper down in gloom and pleasing mystery. Beyond its western gorge, in the middle distance, cornfields, pastures, groves, cottages, and farmsteads, are glowing beneath the sunbeams in tli^tinct and characteristic colour, while Cosdon, from these peculiar " skiey influences," borrows more than his natural elevation, and towers, in purple majesty, high in the distant west. At the angle of the next zigzag, we look down upon Prestonbury, and enjoy a favourable opportunity for obtaining a bird's eye view of the fortifications of this remarkable headland ; and shall be better able to estimate the wisdom of our British ancestors in fortifying this important position ; which, as it has been already observed, seems intended to command a border pass, from the champaign country, north and east, by the ford, or bridge, (which, probably of Cyclopean construction, existed even in the earliest ages,) into the moorland district, then the favourite habitation of the hardy Danmonian Britons. Emerging from the copse, the road still winds upward through a common, richly embroidered with the purple heather, golden furze, and green whortle. Arrived at the top, a grass path turns ofF from the beaten road over the common to the left, by following which, we shall soon find ourselves within the area of another of these hill- forts, of which there was an evident chain guarding the moorland frontier. Cranbrook Castle occupies the highest ground of all the neighbouring forts ; and whilst it would be chosen for the purposes of defence, it seems impossible to observe how it commands the whole of the vale of Chagford, the country round Drewstcignton, together with a vast tract of Dartmoor, south and west, and a considerable extent in north and east Devon, without concluding that it would be also used as a speculum, or watch-tower, and that an alarm would be often given from this height by the kindling of the beacon-fire. Mr. Shortt describes Cranbrook Castle as " consisting of a vallum, or agger of moorstone, without cement, about seven acres in 108 PERAMUVT.ATION OP DABTMOOR. extent." Lysons mentions it " as an irregular encampment, conta about six or seven acres, with a double ditch on the south, ditch on the west, and none on the north and east." On measui it, in 1840, I found it six hundred and sixty-six paces within the rampart, the inner slope of which, on the south side, was then about twenty-one feet, the outer, forty-two feet in height. It is quite clear that the north side (towards the deep vide of the Teign) vu never so strongly fortified, as the southern and western sides, where the hill ia much more accessible. No one can visit this interesting monument of antient days, without grieving to observe the wanton spoliation to which it has been exposed by reckless ignorance and parochial parsimony. We perceive, with indignation and regret, that the rampart has been resorted to (and that in a country where stone is found at every step in redundant profusion) as a convenient quarry for road material. In one spot, on the west, I found the vallum, or rampart, had been dug up to the very foundations. My lamented friend, and antiquarian coadjutor,* who visited it in 1832, first called attention to this gratuitous spoliation, and, in 1840, Mr. Shortt brought it under the notice of the late Col. Fulford, whose regard for the venerable relics of antiquity, I rejoice to say, immediately led to securing this interesting relic from total destruction. Mr. Shortt, in his Collectanea Curiosa, gives the following account ; — " The composition of the vallum, or agger, is chiefly moorstone, loosely piled together, of no great height, in some parts grauwacke, or shillct. Part of both have been broken into small fragments, as material for the adjacent roads, and ready for removal. I took the first opportunity of remonstrating, in the proper quarter, against this Vandalic piece of profanation, which is of a piece with that which, in other parts of the kingdom, has fast obliterated the traces of many noble and venerable works of antiquity, * * • and hope to -•-.-■ noble camp from future devastation by the mediation of a trustee of the property, the public-spirited representative of the antient house of Fulford." " The agger of granite, at Cranbrook, may have been British," continues Mr. Shortt, "and the shape on the north-east and south-east, which is not entirely circular, may per- haps lead some to suppose it was an anticum, or summer camp of the • Mr. Henry Woollccmbo, lalo of Plymouth. (RAN BROOK CASTLE. 109 Romans." * But Mr. "Wo oil com be, whose valuable MSS., containing the results of his examination of more than fourscore of these antient hill-forts in Devon, I have now before me, unhesitatingly pronounces it to have been a British settlement. " Cranbrook Castle, near Moreton, is situated in that parish. I have twice visited it, the last time in 1832. It is constructed on the brow of a hill above the Teign river, commanding most extensive views on every side ; to the north, seeing hills, which, I conclude, must be in the neighbourhood of Barnstaple, Coddon Hill, and that range ; to the south, seeing the barrier of Dartmoor. On this side, Coedon is magnificent; and many tors adorn the scene, especially Heytor, in the south-cast quarter. Towards Exeter, the view is uncommonly rich, as it is likewise westward, though not equally so. This castle is evidently the remains of a British town of large dim en - sions, being surrounded by a single rampart only, and one t ditch on the outside. The vallum has been composed of stones principally, but many have been dug up to make fences, yet still enough remains to attest the antiquity of the structure." Returning by a grassy path to the Moreton road, we shall soon reach a weather-beaten granite guide-post, at a crossway. Turning to the right, we shall follow the old Exeter and Chagford road, down the hill, as it skirts Whiddon Park, and thus completing our circuit, return to Chagford, to prepare for our next excursion. Having mounted the hill immediately above the town, and examined the rock-basins on Middledown, we shall proceed by the Tavistock Road, towards the moor, in the direction of Jesson. Near this place the road passes through a moor-gate, where the place of gate-posts is supplied by two natural masses of granite rock. On the top of that on the right, are three rock-basins, one of which, is very perfect, and well denned. On the opposite rock, there are some cavities, evidently of natural formation, presenting a marked contrast to the artificial appearance of the former. Pursuing our course in a westerly direction, we shall enter upon the commons, towards Broadmoor mires and Bushdown Heath, one of the spots where a few grouse still find shelter in the heathery * Shohtt'9 Collectanea Curiosa, p. 26. t On revisiting Cranbiook, in JBil), Mr. Woolkombc made a more partkolir elimination of the ditch and found it double, on the south, as kbore stated. PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. cover. Here the hills begin to swell boldly from the lowlands, a numerous springs trickle from the bog*, to render their tribute to the neighbouring Teign. The scene which here presents itself, might have formed the original of the moorland border picture, so graphically sketched by the truthful pencil of Scott. " A few birches and oaks still feathered the narrow ravine, or occupied, in dwarf clusters, the hollow plains of the moor. But these were gradually disappearing, and a wide and waste country lay before them, swelling into bare hills of dark heath, intersected by deep gullies, being the passages by which torrents forced their currents in winter ; and, during summer, the disproportionate channels for diminished rivulets, that winded their puny way among heaps of stone and gravel, the effect* and tokens of their wintry fury, like so many spendthrifts, dwindled down by the consequences of former excesses and extravagance." * Many of these streams, such as Shute Lake, are tributaries of the South Teign, towards which we shall now bend our courso for the sake of visiting the Grey Wethers, by this route, should the tourist prefer it, to the excursion along the North Teign, already pointed out, (p. 77.) Passing between Loughten Tor on the left, and Fcnworthr on the right, we shall follow the principal stream of the South Teign, hi a westerly direction ; and having traced it to its source, within a mile of Sittaford Tor, shall be in a position to command a full view of these remarkable circles. Seen from this spot, wc shall readily trace the popular designation to the appearance, which at a distance these time-worn masses would present to the moorland shepherds, of a flock of sheep, pasturing on the common. But the more poetic eye, will rather here realize the image of a group of overthrown Titans, as "bodied forth" by the bard, who might almost be supposed t< sketched, on this spot, the grand and gloomy imagery of one o most striking scenes of his Ilyperion — One here, one there, Lny, vnst and edgeways, like a dismal cirqne, Of Drnid stones, upon a forlorn moor When the chill rain begins at shot of eve. In doll November, and their chancel-vault ; The heav'n itself, is blinded throughout night. — Keats. OBEY WETHERS. Ill These circles have been already sufficiency described, (p. 77,) nor should we find anything at Sittaford Tor sufficiently attractive to induce us to extend our excursion in that direction. "We shall therefore retrace our steps along the eastern bank of the South Teign. Here the moormen will point out to us the dark green spikes of the sparrow grass, which they affirm to be of the most deleterious quality, if eaten by bullocks before Midsummer, but perfectly harmless and nutritious for cattle, after that season of the year. Continuing by a moorland cart-track, in the same direction, we shall soon pass Mevil, near which is the moor-gate bounding the parishes of Lydford and Chagford. Following this track, with the Teign on the left, flowing below Thornworthy Tor, we shall cross Tawton Common, where are some faint vestiges of tracklines and a hut-circle of the ordinary description, about thirty feet in diameter. From hence we may vary our route by following the lane nearest to the Teign, through Gully Hole, instead of taking the road which passes immediately below Middledown to Chagford. Bidding farewell to Chagford, we shall proceed by the high road to Moreton Hampstead, our next station, passing Wick Green — a name in which will probably be traced vestiges of an antient Vicus — and Drewston,* the place referred to by Chappie, (quoted above,) as indicating, together with Drcwsteignton, the former haunts of the Druids. In Moreton, we shall find excellent accommodation at the White Hart, where tourists, who may require post-horses or chaise, be accommodated with both steed and vehicle, as this town is rituatcd on the turnpike road from Exeter to Plymouth and Tavistock, and is the market and post-town of a considerable district. In the situation of Moreton, and the objects by which it is surrounded, we shall not fail to observe evidence sufficient to convince us that the true orthography of the name is Moortown, and to none of our border-towns could that appellation be so properly applied, encom- passed as it is by a noble amphitheatre of hills and moorlands, at a x or less distance, in every direction. Moreton is a clean- looking, cheerful little town, built on a gently rising knoll. The are irregular, and many of the houses arc of that antient and 112 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. substantial character, which marks the neighbourhood of the n The sunken cross, leaning against an old pollard elm, in the principal street, — the open arcade of circular-headed arches (a relic of the early part of the seventeenth, century) in front of the old poor-house, and the church, with its lofty granite tower, will all be noticed, as characteristic and interesting features in the scene. From the brow of the knoll, on which the church is budt, one can scarcely look forth on the surrounding eminences without being forcibly reminded of the hills which stand round about Jerusalem, as beautifully described by the sacred lyrist in Psalm exxv. And while our thoughts are thus directed to Him, whose omnipresent power stands round about his people, the rock-idol, which rises darkling from yonder rugged steep, and Heytor, with its rock-basins, looming huge and grand in the southern horizon, carries the thoughts back to " the vanities" of our heathen forefathers, and to the sad spectacles which then- blood-stained altars presented, in contrast with the pure and peaceful shrines of our Christian England, consecrated to the service of " the True God and Jesus Christ whom he hath sent." Let us now proceed to examine these and other relics, which can be conveniently visited from Moreton as a central point. Taking a northward direction, the ground we traverse will be adjacent to that which we passed, in our excursion to Cranbrook Castle. Leaving the town by the old road to Exeter, we shall mount a steep ascent, and, at abou.t the distance of a mile and a half, shall diverge to the right, across the common, to examine the antiquarian relics on Mardon Down, But before leaving the road, let us pause to cast a glance at the landscape which stretches away to the south, aa wc shall never see Heytor, to greater advantage than from this point. The view of Moreton and the surrounding country is also very interesting. Mounting the northern slope of Mardon, we shall notice some aboriginal relics. Among these, the most conspicuous is a circle, thirty yards in circumference, with nine stones remaining erect in their original position, one of which stands two feet and a half above the surface, and is of similar form with the jambs of hut- circles, in other parts. The collection of small stones in the area, would rather convey the notion of a dilapidated cairn, from which the greater part of the stones had been removed. Near the circle are some tracklines, two of which intersect each other. Mounting WOOSTON CASTLE. 113 the lull and bearing towards the south, in search of the Giant's G^ave,• as laid down in the Ordnance Map, on the S.E. side of Mardon, we shall notice the remains of a cairn, which seems to be the relic so designated, but which presents no appearance worthy of particular remark. Turning northwards again, and following a moorland track over the common, wc shall leave Buttern Down liigh on the left, and return by the old road from More ton to Clifford Bridge, passing Pinmoor (more correctly perhaps Penmoor) in our way to Wooston Castle. Near a finger-post, where a road branches off to Chagford in the direction of Cranbrook Castle, we shall diverge to the left over a common overgrown with heath and furze, which slopes northwards, in the direction of the Tcign. The ground has evidently been much disturbed, and it is traditionally reported in the neighbourhood that the appearances here presented are vestiges of antient mining operations, but some of them look much more like fortifications, in connexion probably with Wooston Castle, which we shall now proceed to examine, as it is immediately in front, rising boldly above the wooded glen of the Tcign. Wooston Castle is by far the most curious and interesting specimen of antient castrametation, in the whole of our moorland region. Mr. Shortt pronounces it to be a British camp, and justly conjectures it, with Cranbrook and Prestonbury, to " have been one of a chain of forts on the Telgn." The camp itself is an earthwork of an irregular oval form, but there are subsidiary entrenchments and other works, in immediate connexion with it, of an exceedingly interesting description. The site itself is worthy of remark, as occupying much lower ground than the lull which rises immediately behind it, on the south. But with relation to the valley of the Teign, it rises high above a precipitous, wooded cliff. It would »r, therefore, that the greatest dinger was apprehended from the north, where, probably, in the lowlands, tribes of different manners ho-lilc dispositions were seated, against whose incursions the Danmonian highbinders found it necessary to guard their frontier. • " Kafdon," »ay» Mr. Shortl, " which bona to of the giant's cairo, or grave, but tumv/vi of llie (riant wm anfortmi&tel; stripped of ils granite to repair tlio roads, and plm:e of sepulture was nearly obliterated in consequence." Shobtt'b Collect., p, 28. | Her. W. f.jnsford, the Hector of Drews to ignton, Rises a similar account of the .oval of the materials of some tumuli, on Murdon, lor the repair of the ronds ; and of thoae is, in all probability, the calm above mentioned, known traditionally as the Grave. PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. The camp occupies a platform, or ledge, on the side of the furzy hill above described. On the north and west sides, the rampart follows, for the most part, the natural outline of the ground, which sinks deeply down towards the river. The rampart, or vallum, is accordingly very inconsiderable, where the ground itself rendered the camp impregnable. On the north, west, and part of the east side, the rampart is unprovided with a fosse, but on the southern side there is a deep ditch, and a rampart at least ten or twelve yardi in average height, from the bottom of the trench to the crest of the vallum. In 1840, I traced the line of circumvallation on the south and west sides very distinctly, to an extent of two hundred and forty yards. Mr. H. WooUcombe, who visited Wooston in the same year, gives the following description of the subsidiary earthworks. " About two hundred feet up the hill, towards the south, where the castle was very defenceless, another considerable rampart was made, with a deep ditch on the outer side. On the eastern side of the castle, and immediately communicating with it, is a covered way, which descends to the river, and might afford shelter, for access to the fortress. But from whence it communicates with the camp, it proceeds up the hill for some distance beyond the second rampart, and terminates in a mound," which, apparently, may have been used as a fire-beacon, as from hence may be seen Prcstonbury and Granbrook Castle on one side, and Holcombc and Pcrridge t on the other, and an immense extent to the northward. Higher tip the hill, adjoining the road to Morcton, another piece of rampart occurs, totally unconnected with the castle. This has much the appearance of the banks raised by the Romans for their roads, but it is an isolated piece, which I could trace no further; it is true the ground adjoining is cultivated, and, therefore, its continuation may have been obliterated." * Mr. Wooll- combe's notion of the fire-beacon on the south, in connexion with the principal work, removes a difficulty which occurred to my mind, when I observed that from the castle itself, so few of the neigh- bouring hill-forts could be seen. Neither Cranbrook nor Cotley are ■ A deep trackway, or ditch, nppears to lend into l!ie work from the upper pul of the hill, mid there is besides a email crescent-ahaped redoubt, or outwork, abuve Uie Ciiiii|>, and 1'u.cinglo the west. Suontr'a Collect., p. 28. t Better known by the name of Coltcy, on the crown of a coni'Mi hill, in Hie N-E corner of tlie parish of Dunsfurd, torn man ding a fine view of Eieter and the Tale of Ihe Teign. 1 lind that the adjoining held, is still called CasUe Field. t Woolloobde's Fortified Bill* in Devon, MSS. CLIPFOHD BRIDGE. 115 in view from that point, but since these and others can be commanded from some spot within the entrenchment, the choice of this situation for a fortified post is more intelligible ; yet should we be far from concluding that a work of such extent was ever constructed for the purposes of a beacon only, as appears to have been sometimes sup- posed, from Mjf.Shortt's pertinent remarks on the subject. "The shape and defensive lines of Wooston, and its adjacent colossal brethren, must put an end to the hypothesis of their being mere beacons, on which no such labour was needed to be lavished j nor were they the Gorsedifou, or British Courts, seats of judgment, and Goreeddadleti , convened in the open air, on the tops of hills, for the same ostensible reason, any more than astronomical observatories of Druidism." Taking advantage of the covered way, above described by Mr. Woollcombe, by which our ancestors resorted to the river, for water or other purposes ; at the interval of twenty centuries, we shall follow their footsteps through brakes and thickets, down to the south bank of the Teign, where it forms a sharp bend immediately beneath the natural glacis of the castle. From hence we shall make our way, by a beaten path, — where occasional difficulties will scarcely do more than increase the interest of the walk, along this sequestered dell, — until we reach Clifford Bridge, where the old road from Moreton and Chagford passes eastward to Exeter and Crediton. The scenery here, though not so bold and romantic as at Fingle, varied, pleasing, and characteristic. The river glides away in a graceful sweep below thickly- wooded acclivities on the right bank towards Dunsford. The country, on the eastern side, though inclosed and cultivated, rises scarcely less boldly, and from several points commands highly-interesting views of the course of the Teign, it flows down through its woodland gorge from the western moor- lands. Prestonbury, with its bold angular headland, scarped down to the river's brink, forms a prominent object, in front of the deep, wooded glen beyond, while the giant bulk of Cosdon shuts in the scene, in ihc distant west. Crossing Clifford Bridge, we shall diverge from the Moreton road, and follow a pleasing rural lane on the right hand, which, at first, skirts along the eastern bank of the river, but soon striking into the inclosed country, leads us through the charmingly situated village 116 1'BRAMBUI.ATION OF DARTMOOB. of Dunsford, to Dunsford Bridge, where the features of i beauty, though of similar character, are moro striking than tho* Clifford. We now find ourselves on the direct road from Exct Moreton, and as we mount the lull, looking down a precipitous *' to the river on the right, shall notice the peculiar characterist the scenery of the Upper Teign, in the steep cliffy banks of re< gray rock, shouldering back the course of the river, — the protrudi banks being bare and rocky, and the corresponding recessions on the opposite side, being, for the most part, woody. These characteristics prevail along the course of the Teign, in a greater or less degree, from Whiddon Fark to Dunsford Bridge. Many patches of the shelving bank on the north side, studded with groups of low brush- wood, with the gray debris of the rock scattered between, will recall (on a small scale) the appearance of Fairfield Hill, above Rydal Mount, Westmorland, as seen from the top of Loughxigg, on the opposite side of Rydal Water. Still following the turnpike, we shall observe a wild brow rising on the left above the road, called AVoodhiU, where hugo bowlder masses project from among the furze and heather ; the first charac- teristic and unequivocal indications of our approach to the great granitic district of Devon from the cast. We shall continue to follow the road, until we reach the top of the hill, at tho crossway, where a finger-post points out a road to Crcditon on the right, and a lane, cm the lilt, leads to Blackystone. By taking the latter road, and proceeding eastward, we shall soon discern this remarkable tor, rising in sombre majesty from the common. It consists principally of two huge masses of natural rock, the upper, crowning its colossal supporter with an immense granite cap. This tor, like its twin -brother, Whitestone, (or lleltor, as it is more generally called,) forms a con- spicuous object to the whole country round, and as far south, a* the mail road, near Eickington, it may be seen peering over the edge of Pcppcrn Down. Leaving Blackystone, by the road which winds round its base, we shall proceed somewhat to the north, and, at about the distance of a mile, shall reach lleltor, which occupies a more commanding position than even Blackystone, as the hill on which it stands, rises abruptly from the vale of the Teign. Hem discernible from a greater distance to the north and east, than il* giant brother is to the south. Viewed from Dunsford and the HELTOK AND BLACK YSmXE. immediate neighbourhood, it wears the appearance of some antient castle-keep, drapericd with ivy, and built to defend the pass below. On a closer examination, it is found to consist of two distinct, but closely adjacent piles, on the top of which are rock-basins ; three on the northern pile and three on the southern. One of these is consi- derably larger than the others. They are all of irregular forms ; the larger about three feet in diameter. Thus, on the eastern confines of the moor, Heltor and Blackystone are stationed, at the gates of the wilderness, the Teign, which flows hard by, forming the natural boundary of the Dartmoor district ; and the former of these remarkable tors, rises, as we have seen, immediately above the southern bank of that river. Ucltor stands about a mile north of Bridford Church. Pro- ceeding to that village, and going along the road to Exeter, about a quarter of a mile, we shall observe in a field, on the right, adjoining the lane, a conglomeration of stones, looking like the remains of a dilapidated cairn. In this heap of small stones, two tabular masses, appearing originally to have formed the side stones of a large kistvaen, placed tn a parallel position ; the largest, six feet wide, three feet above the surface, and about eighteen inches in average thickness, Proceeding southward from Bridford, we shall mount the hill which rises in front of the village, to visit Skat Tor, remarkable for its singular conformation. The south front is graduated into a series of rude seats, or steps, leading to a broad platform, on wliich is placed a mass of rock, with a smaller one at the side, as if it might have been the result of art. I do not find that Skat Tor ever enjoyed ihe reputation of a logan-stone ; but if so, this curious appearance would, in all probability, be satisfactorily explained. Skat Tor occu- pies a commanding situation above the vale of the Teign, between Bridford and Christow. Retracing our steps by Blackystone to the Moreton turnpike, we dull pass near a farm, called Moor Barton, in the parish of Moreton, where, at no distant time, there existed a cairn,* which was destroyed by the occupier, in carrying into effect some agricultural improve- • Mr. Sbortt thus describes Ihe cairn, and the interesting relics found there when il »i* opened. The lumulua was " nine Inndynrds round, in which a sort of rode fc*»»el>, of iii (treat stones, was found, with ,1 spear-liond of copper, the two pegs, or tfmti, which fastened it to its stnlf; a kIuss British bead, and a small dmuk't of soft ime chief, — calcined bones, ashes, &c." Shohtt's Collect., p. 29. 118 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. ments on the estate. The spear-head, glass bead, &c., which were taken from the kistvaen, were, for some time, in the possession of the Rev. Mr. Carrington, late vicar of Bridford, and are important in the chain of evidence by which the occupancy of this part of the island in remote ages is established. Following the turnpike, as it winds down the hill towards Moreton, one of the finest of our moorland border landscapes expands before us. The greater portion of the amphitheatre, which sweeps round the town, is seen from a most favourable point of view. The huge dorsal ridge of Hamildon, stretches far across the western horizon, while along the Bovey Vale, southward, the eye looks down a long-drawn vista, where the picturesque forms of the ground, and the rich variety of foliage, irresistibly attract the attention, and make us resolve to obtain a nearer view of the individual features of this charming scene, assured that they will lose nothing of their attractions on a closer inspection. Our next excursion will therefore lead us by the Bovey and Newton road to Lustleigh, which we shall reach, (within five miles,) by diverging to the right. Lustleigh Church is placed on the plea- sant slope of one of our deepest Devonshire coombs* where the most pleasing features of village scenery are happily combined, whilst not a single uncongenial object intrudes to mar the keeping of the har- monious whole. A clear vigorous stream, ripples cheerily down the dell, — to turn the busy mill at the end of the hamlet ; graceful shel- ving acclivities partitioned by varied foliage into green crofts, or blooming garden grounds, substantial farm-steads, and whitewashed cottages peep from among the orchards or are nestled under shelter- ing trees. Bowlder rocks, with thickets and copse interspersed, protrude from the soil, on the higher ground, while the far-famed Lustleigh Cleave, with its granite barrier, fences in the vale from the storms of the neighbouring moor. The combination of rural scenery of this particular class, thus presented in this sequestered spot, is certainly not surpassed, if equalled, in any other part of Devonshire. Passing from the church up a steep bridle-road, to a nearer examination of the Cleave, we shall find it to be a genuine moorland * Coomb, or combe, from the Anglo-Saxon Coomb, a low valley. This term is peculiarly descriptive of the curved hollows which are scooped out on the sides of oar Devonshire hills, especially in the sandstone formation. LUSTLEIGH CLEAVE. 119 Obiter, where, amidst the wilderness of granite masses, it will be difficult to detect the particular block, which is said to be a logan-stone, hut where many are so placed that they might be easily made to logg ,- and some may have thus moved, without strictly claiming the honour of the antient logan. But if we should fail in identifying any Druidical relic in this rocky labyrinth, the smiling coomb of Lustleigh below, contrasted with the stem magnificence of the moorland heights above, "ill abundantly repay the trouble of the explorer ; and some will ih i "k the picturcsqtte masses of rock, with shrubs and foliage springing up from their fissures, in the evergreen crofts of the little hamlet of Hammerslake just below, are more worthy of notice and admiration than the more conspicuous and celebrated Cleave itself. Returning through Lustleigh, to the turnpike-road, we shall leave it at a place called Slade, where a lane on the left mounts the hill eastward. On reaching ihe lull, by turning to the right, and proceed- ing along the crest of the eminence, we shall reach Bottor Rock, a con- spicuous tor," at the extremity of the headland, which rises above the valley of the Teigu and Bovey Heathficld.f The huge block on the highest part of the tor has been supposed, to have been worshipped as a rock-idol. Some vestiges of antient remains have been discovered in the immediate vicinity. { From this point which presents a noble panorama of varied interest, bounded by Haldon, the heights of Dartmoor and the coast, we shall bid farewell to the Teign, which has so long been the companion of our wanderingB. We shall mark its course along the deep vale on the left, with the pleasant town of Chudleigh, and its characteristic cliff, on the eastern bank. Below * Boltor may be cosily visited from Chudleigh, from which it ia scarcely three miles t Bottor, Dear Hcnnock, has oak trees growing in its clefts, and at its feet are hMlows. like cavern*, lined with 6y?viu nufe.it, which according to De Luc, at particular ■pots. Mid iu certain lights, displays a very glittering appearance, of a greenish hue. Sota to Cahringtoic's Dartmoor. X Mr. W. C. Radley of Nevrton Abbot, in a communication inserted in Woolmer's EtEtcr Gazette. Not. lfltl, records the following appearances at Bottor. " About three hundred yards S.W., in a large field called Brady Park, two rock-circles, concentric, one within the other, may still, in part, be seen, the one, measuring from the centre of the inner circle uu either hand, thirty -eight feet and a half, to the verge of the outer circle, gives a diameter of seventy-seven feet, divided thus: outer wall four feel thick, then a circular space eighteen feet wide to the inner circle. The Second wall is four and a half lo five feet in thickness, and the diameter of the area within is twenty-four feel. It bad been hollowed out to a lower depth than Ihe surrounding ground. Both walls ore neatly formed without cement, (if rough uncliissi'lc.-l Mocks uf sicuitic rock, the smooth faces being placed within, and without having the central part filled up with the smaller fragments, as stone walls are at present made." 120 PER AMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Chudleigh Bridge, it sweeps in front of the- stately j Ugbrook Park, and loses the character of a moorland Leaving the narrow vales and deep glens through which : hitherto pursued its devious way, it now enters upon ' alluvial plains of Tcigngrace and Kingsteignton, and through t copse and pasture, meanders, in gentler mood, along channel to its estuary at Tcign mouth. Leaving with reluctance this pleasing scene of alternate s and grandeur, and descending the hill by another lane, church-town of Bovey Tracey on the left, we shall cross the valley to uV banks of its neighbouring tributary stream, by some called the Wert Teign, but described by Risdon as the Bovey. Here we shall strife upon a road skirting the common below Yamour Wood, and follow- ing the direction of a guide-post pointing to JIauaton, shall proceed to Becky Fall,* — a considerable cascade on the Hayne, a branch of the Bovey river, which we shall find by turning out of the road on the left, and repairing to the stream in the wood nearly opposite lo Lustleigh Cleave, about a mile from Manaton. When the river is ; diminished by summer droughts, nor impoverished to ium^h v power for some adjacent works, it rolls down in a fine foamy v over a succession of rock stages, about seventy-five feet in height, top to bottom. The fall is thickly overshadowed with foliage, a general effect is pleasing and characteristic of a moorland I But if the tourist should he disappointed in his expectations, and find an insignificant rivulet trickling down through the moss-cov< rocks, he should remember that the most celebrated waterfalls i Lake country, arc subject to the same contingency. Lodore, a head of Derweiitwater, whose " splashing, and flashing, and d and crashing," has been sung in echoing numbers, by a often be visited, when in the tamed and duninished streai sanguine admirer of Southcy would be at utter fiiult in discovi "how the water comes down from Lodore" in all the than magnificence of wintry streams or summer torrents, at represented in the simulative strains of the sportive muse. Leaving Becky Fall and proceeding up the hill side, S.11 p, and find ss -covered alls in the are, at the idaihinc. rcatc, wdl ream, the iscovering MANATON CIRCLMVALLATION. 121 shall notice a dilapidated cairn, with a trackway, bearing in some places the appearance of an imperfect avenue, or parallelithon, coming upward* N.E. from the valley, and ending, after a course which can be traced two hundred and forty yards, in the cairn above. We shall here find ourselves on a moorland road leading from Heytor to Manaton, and returning towards the Latter place, we shall pass the small field on the right hand, where the singular elliptical circum- vallation mentioned in the general description, (p. 45,) will be observed, and which will not fail to attract the attention, and repay the inspection of the antiquary and the tourist, Our road will now lead us through Manaton church-town, screened from the north by a rugged tor, which rises immediately behind it. The steeple is of less sturdy appearance than some of our moorland towers, but in the western front, it has a massive round- headed granite doorway, of almost Cyclopean character. "We shill notice with satisfaction, in passing, the simple rural churchyard, , with its well-kept turf and venerable yew, and the village green adjoining, a pleasing accompaniment, which oue would rejoice to see connected with every hamlet in the kingdom. Following the road to North Bovey, we shall pass below East Down, a detached pyramidal hill, forming a conspicuous object to all the country round. We shall be disappointed in our search for Dmidical relics, on this eminence, although it is plentifully strewed "iili masses of the natural rock. Polwhele records the existence «f » logan, formerly on this common, called the Whooping Rock, Nt which had been wantonly moved iroin its balance, some years "*fore that author wrote his account. He describes it as " evidently a Druiiiical logan-stonc," and says it " has been venerated by the tious neighbourhood, as an enchanted rock, from the time of "» Druids to the present day." North Bovey, at the foot of the hill, is a village of similar cha- i Manaton, (having also its well-planted green, or Play stow, in """t of the church,) but with more picturesque accompaniments, in nderings of the beautiful stream below, which we shall cross a "IT return to Moreton. The eye rests on every object with satis- * ct, °H, as we pass along, except on that which should form the centre deasing rural scent; — the church and its granite tower ; but e letter, unfortunately, has been so strangely bedaubed, as to offend ct{T y feeling of propriety and taste, by its parti-coloiu'ed garniture. 122 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Our next excursion will cause us to retrace our steps to North Bovey, in our way to Bowerman's Nose, btlt when about quarter of a mile from Manaton, we shall leave that village on the left, and crossing a tributary of the Bovey, shall mount the hill by a moor- track, which passes over Heighen Down, in front of that remarkable pile. Bowerman's* Nose, as it is popularly called, rises from the brow of the headland which projects from Heytor, and the hilly track, between the dale of Widdecombe and those of Manaton and North Bovey. It is seen to greatest advantage, when approached from the north by the road we are now traversing ; and is found, on examination, to consist of five layers of granite blocks, piled by the hand of nature, — some of them severed into two distinct masses; the topmost stone (where I presume the nasal resemblance is traced) being a single block. Folwhele seems to have been mistaken in cal- culating the height at fifty feet ; it is rather less than forty above the clatter from which it rises. Conspicuous from its position, and remarkable for its form, it is easy to conceive that this fantastic pro- duction of nature, might have been pointed out to an ignorant and deluded people as the object of worship; nor is it unworthy of remark that, viewed from below, it strongly resembles the rude colossal idols, found by our navigators when they visited Easter Island, in the Southern Pacific, and when seen from the south, on the higher ground, it presents the appearance of a Hindoo idol, in a sitting posture. It is only on the spot, that we can duly appretiate Cairington's graphic and faithful description, On the very edge Of the vast moorland, startling every eye A shape enormous rises ! High it towers Above the hill's bold brow, and seen from far, Assumes the human form ; a granite god,— To whom, in days long flown, the suppliant knee In trembling homage bowM. The hamlets near Have legends rude connected with the spot, (Wild swept ty every wind,) on which he stands The Giant of the moor. ♦ The cognomen of Bowerman, is thus accounted for by Mr. Burt. Speakrai the pile, he says : " It is generally considered as a rock-idol, and bean the name Bowerman's Nose, of which name there was a person in the Conqueror's time, " lired 41 Hountor, or Anndtor, in Manaton." Note* to CAmaiHGTOw's Dartmoor, r> « L *»> HEYTOlt BOCK. Among the unnumbered shapes, which, pqet so truly *ings, vagety form'd, — fantastic, vast, i; desert throng, — Bowerman's tor will always occupy a position of highest rank, for its natural conformation, and for the legendary recollections with which it is associated. Among the numerous masses by which the hill-side is plentifully strewn, may be observed one, so well suited for the purposes of a logan-stonc, that very little artificial adaptation would be required to impart to it considerable vibratory motion. A trackline connects the tor with another tor, southward, on the same hill. Front this head- land we look down npon Manaton, and observe immediately below, the Cyclopean elliptical inclosure, near it, as already described. Leaving the height, and proceeding southward, we shall soon enter the Ashburton Road, and passing through a moor-gate, shall not foil to remark a lofty tor on the left, the north front of which the appearance of a mimic castellated building, with two ■jeering bastions. On closer examination, we shall find it to be Houndtor, one of the most interesting of the tors on the moor. The top of the bill is flanked by two colossal walls piled up of huge granite masses, sixty, eighty, and in some places, probably, a hundred feet high, with an open space between, forming an esplanade where Titan sentinels might have paced along, or rebel giants might have held a council of war. Returning from Houndtor, about a furlong S., I pass the kistvaen described above, (p. 85,) and follow the Ashburton Road until at the foot of Rippon Tor, where a road to the left, which wilt soon bring us to lleytor, — which, from its commanding position on the south-eastern frontier of the moor, — at the head of a wide expanse of declivities which slope directly down to the level country, (through which the great mail- roods, from Exeter to Plymouth, pass by Totnes and Ashburton, in full view of the tor for many miles,) is probably more generally known and admired than any other of its granite kindred of the wmle. lleytor rises from the brow of the hill with sombre grandeur, in two distinct piles ; and when viewed from the neighbourhood of Kingsteignton, and other adjacent, lowlands, under the influence of a sullen and cloudy sky, presents a singularly accurate resemblance 124 PERAMBULATION OF DA&TMOOR. to a ruined castle, the massive keep of which, is represented by the eastern pile. On the top is a rock-basin, two feet and a half in diameter, but much less perfect than Mistor Pan and many others. We shall now find ourselves amidst the " sights and sounds" so eloquently described by Howitt.* And if our visit can be so timed, we mav even realize the characteristic accidents which will not fail to enhance the intrinsic loveliness of the scene. Here are "the wild thickets and half-shrouded faces of rock ; — the tors standing in the blue air in sublime silence, the heather and bilberry on either hand showing that cultivation has never disturbed the soil they grew in;" and here too, perchance, "one sole woodlark from the far- ascending forest on the right, filling the wide solitude with his wild autumnal note." We shall look with eager interest for that "one lax^e solitarv house in the valley beneath the woods," which he has commemorated ; and contemplating the manifold variety before us, of rock and mountain, flood and fell, wood and meadow, busy towns and silent wastes, the level flat of Bovey Heathfield and the beetling steeps of Dartmoor, the placid estuary of the Teign and the wide expanse of ocean seen over the rock-bound coast stretching far away to the misty verge of the southern horizon, — shall enter into the feelings which he has thus enthusiastically recorded. " So fair, so silent, save for the woodlark % s note and the moaning river, so un- earthly did the whole scene seem, that my imagination delighted to look upon it as fairy land." t At the foot of the western pile of this conspicuous tor, we shall observe a trackway, running from south-east to north-west, intersected at the extremity by another, tending to the converse points of the compass, and discernible to the extent of two hundred and forty varus. I he adjacent commons abound with similar remains of track- way* and tracklines. One of these, of very marked character, comes down the hill from Kippon Tor. and crossing both the Bovey and the Ashburtoa Road, mav be traced about two miles. We shall also notice many hut-circle*, and other vestiges of aboriginal occupancy. One of the circles tuav be specified, consisting of eighteen stones eloM-A placed, forming a circumference of seventv-five feet * oiling the winding course of the trackline mentioned above, we • ** l^v. *, .V . Ho. itt-, A«/ W , # Smgiamt9 ToL ^ p . 379. NORTH AND EAST-QUARTER BOUNDARY. 125 shall find ourselves on the high road to Chagford, which we shall follow, retracing our steps to the moor-gate, near Iloundtor, and leaving Bowerman'a Nose on the right, shall return towards Morcton, below East Down, on the western side, and passing Bector Cross, — (the time-worn cross itself stands in an adjoining field,) — shall enter the town by the Plymouth and Tavistock Road. Our next excursion will lead us along that road until we reach ihe fifth mde-stonc from Moreton. Here a group of interesting remains will attract our attention. One of the most prominent is a circle, or pound, two hundred and forty yards in circumference, inclosing two hut- circles. Three branches of trackways will be observed in connexion with this inclosure. One may be traced S.S.YV",, passing from the c ire um variation to the valley below. Ano- ther, beginning at the circle, is lost in the boggy hollows beneath, but reappears on the opposite hill, and crosses the turnpike. Nearly parallel with the last, another fine proceeds also from the circle, and is lost on the opposite slope, after crossing the high road, about a furlong west of the former. "We have now returned to a point where we have the means of ascertaining the course of the antient perambulation. We have arrived at the bounds of the East Quarter, which joins the North at Wotcsbrook Lake foot, described in the original perambulation as Hilling into the Teign ; and which was thought by the Perambulators, Who made their survey in the reign of James I.,* to be the same as the stream then called "Whoodelake. There, they accounted the North Quarter to end, one mile from Hingstone, or Highstone, near Fenwortby Hedges, t As the boundary proceeds from thence in a straight line to the stream which rises below the cairn-crested hill, called King's Oven, where it makes an angle, and then holds on in a direct line to King's Oven, we have in that well-known spot, and in Fenworthy, two ascertained points, between which we shall be able to trace the hounds of the East Quarter without danger of material error. In Broadmoor Mires wc shall probably find the "turbary of Aherheve,"; or Aberheeved, "the fennye place, now called Turfehill" " xvi. Aug., 6 James I., A.D. 1609. t Called bjthe aforesaid Peramtiululnrs, Feraworlhie Hedges. Tho inclosure* of Fenworiuy have therefore been evidently of lotiB standing. " In the root of this word, wo have an instance of Ihe inlient British prefix Aber, ion in Wales and Scotland. unnvithui.b 126 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. by the aforesaid Perambulators, and in " King's Oven " on the hill above, Surt Regis, (which seems to be a strange misprint for Furaum Regis,) in Risdon's copy of the original document. But we must again forsake the guidance of the Perambulators, and return to the scene of our recent investigations, with Warren Tor, on the right. Diverging from the high road, and mounting the hill southward, we shall notice many other vestiges of hut-circles and tracklines, in our way over Shapely Common. Passing the tor on the summit, we shall turn to observe the fine expanse of country which lies behind us, stretching away to the Exmoor range on the north. Taking the tors for our landmarks, we shall now keep a southward course, and make for Hooknor, the nearest tor in that direction, as this will probably be our best guide for finding Grimspound, (which will be our next object,) should our means of locomotion enable us to disre- gard the accommodation of roads. But if otherwise, the tourist will find it more convenient to proceed by the turnpike (instead of leaving it as above) to Vitifer mine, near a small inn by the way side, about six miles from Moreton. Here a carriage can be put up, and he will find himself about two miles from the object of his search, which appears on the slope of the lofty ridge, terminating the prospect eastward. A tolerable road to the stamping mills in the valley below, will be our best course from this point. In the angle between this road and the turnpike, we shall notice an antient granite cross, near the boundary of the parishes of Lydford and Chagford, standing erect in its original position, but time-worn and weather- beaten, with the storms of centuries. The modern letters, W. B., are graven on the shaft. Leaving this venerable relic of medieval times, on the left, we proceed eastward, and cross the springs of the West Webburn near the source. The water-power thus furnished is rendered subservient to the mining operations in the valley below South-stone Common. A path east from the mine, leads us still eastward over Challa- combe Down, where we shall notice many deep excavations and other remains of antient mines. On the saddle of Challacombe Down, with Grimspound immediately opposite, we shall cross, at right angles, an important parallelithon, or stone avenue,* running north and south, * First noticed by Mr. John Prideaox, twenty years since, but apparently remain- ing in the same state, at the present time. liRIMSPOUND. 127 mucli wider than these at Longstone and Merivale, although the stones are of the same size and character. But unlike those, the Challacombe avenue has a third line of stones, so that instead of a single aisle, a double one is formed. The line of avenue may be traced clearly to the extent of eighty yards, terminating towards Birch tor on the south, and on the north, lost in an old stream-work. By a steep descent, we shall reach the vale of ChaHacombc, where the origin of the local designation will be observed at a glance, and its significance manifested in this secluded nook, hollowed out of the acclivities of surrounding hills. This coombe, which opens pleasantly to the south, is watered by another spring of the West Webburn, and presents a pleasing proof of successful cultivation, under favourable circumstances, in the heart of the moor. But Grimspound is now before ue, as we mount the southern slope, below Hooknor tor. From this point of view, on the north side of the circumvallation, the sketch for the accompanying illus- tration of this most remarkable relic of aboriginal antiquity, was kithfiilly and felicitously made. A general description has been ilieady given (p. 44) of this venerable specimen of a primitive British town, fortified by a strong wall, and containing numerous remains of antient dwellings within its Cyclopean bulwark. The hrge stone represented in the print, on the eastern side of the circle, marks the spot where the spring rises, and from whence, beneath the foundations of the wall, as already described, it flows, Doci the name of Grimslake, to join the Webburn. After a dry Spring, and a whole month of continuous hot weather immediately preceding, I have found, at Midsummer, a clear and copious stream "wing immediately from the source ; so that it would appear, under ordinary circumstances, the inhabitants would have been always "Efficiently supplied with pure and wholesome water. The classical lnv csti (Tutor will probably be disappointed at not finding in Grims- pound the characteristics of an antient British town, defended by "nods, swamps and thickets, as described by Caesar, in his account °f the fortified post occupied by Cassivelaunus, where a large body °f persons and herds of cattle might be congregated in security. But without raising the question, whether, when Grimspound was originally built, these naked declivities might not have been clothed *ith wood, as some suppose, the present natural circumstances might 128 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. suffice to account for the different kind of castrametation, exl in the stronghold of that valiant British prince." The i Britons, on the banks of the Thames, had not the same advai in point of materials, as their Danmonian compatriots the granite blocks and bowlders of Dartmoor, from which au effectual circumvallation could be speedily formed ; to which those aboriginal engineers appear to have deemed it unnecessary to add the further protection of a fosse, since Grimspound is totally unpro- vided with any kind of ditch, or additional outwork, beyond its single rampart. This is a feature of much significance, and should be duly regarded in our endeavours to ascertain the period of the erection of this rude but venerable fortress. The rampart is doubtless nmtli lower than it was originally built, but unlike many of the i-ulht of our hill-forts and earthworks, it has not been tampered with, box the original design altered by successive occupants. Sir It. Hone furnishes us with an important axiom in archaeology, which may be legitimately applied in determining with proximate accuracy, at lea&t, the aira of the erection of Grimspound. " In examining those earth-works, we must endeavour to discriminate the work < people who constructed them; and wherever we find very i and elevated ramparts, and deep ditches, with advanced t such as Bratton, Battlesbury, Scratchbury, Yarnbury, Chidbui Barbury, Oldbury, &c, we may, without hesitation, attribui camps to the Belgic, or Saxon rera; for neither the Britons not Romans had recourse to strong ramparts." f But whilst, to many, the evidence of the existence of an i ginal town at Grimspound appears conclusive, there are not v, those who, in this venerable monument of past ages, can trace other objects than those which have been above assigned. Where history is silent, and monumental evidence disputable, an ample field is opened for theory and speculation. Some have discovered in this relic, a colossal temple of the Sun. Polwhele, who imag antient Danmonium to have been divided into six cantrca circuits, observes, "that Grimspound was the seat of judi * Fosbroke, misled by Lysons, describes " Grimspound, in Dcvonthirc, u ■□ inclosure, blIu&Ic in a mari/t." Encjf. Antiq., p. 77. t Ant. WiUt., yoI. U., p. 108. AS HUM k of the ■:;:: hidburt, ■ tons sot an abori- twtntmg 11AM1LIJ0.V BEACON. 1S9 for the cautred of Durius, is no improbable supposition." * It lb true that the Gorscddau, discovered by Pennant, in Anglesca, and described by him as the Bryn Gwyn, or royal tribunal of the Aich- tlruid, appears to have been similarly constructed, in some respects, being a circular hollow, surrounded by a vallum of earth and stones, but forming a circle of not more than one hundred and eighty feet in diameter, whereas Grimspound covers an area of nearly four acres, an extent totally incompatible with purposes that might be conve- niently accomplished in an amphitheatre whose circumference was less than six hundred feet. But to whatever conclusion the investigator may be led, as to the people by whom this marvel of the moor was constructed, or the objects contemplated in its erection, he will not return from his examination of Grimspound, without being convinced that he has inspected one of the oldest monuments of our island ; whilst the mystery in which its origin is shrouded, and the appear- ance of hoar antiquity with which its gigantic rampart is invested, •ill add interest to his speculations, and deepen his recollections of tins ertraordinary, if not unique, relic of aboriginal times. But no isolated examination of Grimspound, or speculation on ih origin and purposes, will be satisfactory or complete, without faience to the other remains of primitive antiquity, existing in the immediate neighbourhood, and without due consideration of their pliable bearings upon the question. Cairns are numerous on the adjacent downs and hills. We shall find [hem on King Tor, north, and Hamildon Tor, east of Grims- pound. Hamildon, the Saddleback of Devonshire, rises majestically be stronghold, in a long bold ridge, and on its lofty eminence, *e »hall observe Hamildon beacon, commanding a vast extent of wintry, in all directions, and admirably adapted for the conspicuous "l* of a signal-flame to alarm the country, or for kindling the wltine-fire, in the celebration of those Druidkal rites in the month °> May, t of which the bonfire was an essential feature. Mounting "w hill, we shall come upon the grand central trackway above ' Huiorical Fiewi of Devon, p. 20. t llur Dluidiotl year commented at Ihe beginning; of M»y, and a principal feast *« Bade, «nd a InrgB boniire kindled in Commino ration of the telurn of warmth and '■' *fe Tin [rub call Ihe month of May Btttine. or Belus" fire. Fobbboke, Ency. *J**., p. 5J8. ll is worthy of remark, that anions many other iintient and expressive >u, il retained in. Our vernacular, the terra tins, <" *'*dlt ajtame, is a till preserved. 130 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. described, (p, 4C,) and from this elevated position shall ha* opportunity of observing the direction it takes, and the probable relation which such constructions have to the autient mining work* in the neighbourhood, aud to those of the moor generally. In the general description of this trackway, reference has been made to the authority of the Rev. J. H. Mason, a cautious and practical antiquary, whose long and intimate acquaintance with the topography, history, and traditions of the moor, entitle his views to the greatest respect, whatever difference of opinion may exist, ■ to his conclusions, from the facts which he has industriously colli ■ t, il When, therefore, he inclines rather to regard these curious vestiges of antiquity as boundaries than as roads, I am anxious to pBHtn his observations on a subject of much local and antiquarian interest, as invaluable data, which might otherwise be lost to those who would gladly have recourse to the testimony of a competent observer, in endeavouring to solve an aichrological problem of no little difficulty. The point in our perambulation, at which we have now arrived is peculiarly suitable for investigating the subject under consideration, Hamildou and its immediate neighbourhood, having been the prin- cipal scene of examination, with immediate reference to the track- ways and tracklines, or, rather, division- lines, as they are termed bv an antiquarian friend * of Mr. Mason's, who had referred to him on the subject, and to whom he replies in a communication, which appeared in a provincial paper. "There is no chance," VlftH Mr. Mason, " of my being able to ascertain the height af iln boundary-lines ; they are now, I fear, in every part, razed to the ground. I have reason to believe, from the inquiries I have since made, that one of the boundary-lines you saw, (that on Hwncl Down,) went to Crockern Tor, and from thence on to the common adjoining Roborougb Down; if so, it divided Dartmoor, and murt have extended from twelve to fourteen miles, There is a barrow on Peek Hill, near Walkhampton, where the boundary-line is now to Ik traced." On this Mr. Northmore remarks, "the whole line being from E.N.E. to S.W., and Dartmoor being thus divided into two • Thomas Northmurc, Esq., Inn; of Cleeve, near Exeter, who, in ■ nddreased lo Hie Editor of Besteu's Sutler Newt. trots, ill lamo length, of these lii'moo- lines, nnd refers lo the researches of Mr. Mnson mid others. His letters »ppeirri» 1825. and, with some other imporlunt documenla, have been obliginglj put taM my li*" 1 by Mr Mason, for the purposes of ihi* work. ANTIENT TIX BOUNDS. 131 almost equal parts, the north and south divisions," — a distinction still traditionally recognised, as has been already noticed in the general description. In the same correspondence occur the following remarks, by the Ber. EL P. Jones.' "The dykes, or trackways, have been traced tin? uncultivated parts of the parishes of Manaton t and imbC] over Hamildon, and from thence across Dartmoor. They generally run in a straight direction, nearly parallel, and arc i to seven feet in breadth. They are formed of large stones, nud are raised above the level of the ground, and are frequently lost in bogs. In the inclosed country they cannot be traced, the stones having been removed. Two of these dykes have been traced out ; one terminates at Crockcrn Tor, and the other about two miles distant, H Waydon Tor, on Dartmoor. They extend for about ten miles. On Hamildun they are not above half a mile from each other, and in the neighbourhood arc several cairns, barrows, and circles." "In tracing the northernmost reaee* from Hamildon," writes on, " we lost it in a tin-work. The western end was, some time after, discovered towards Newhouse, emerging as it were, from * wall, the boundary of the Courtenay property." Mr. Mason adds itioo of great pertinence. "Are not these reaves, as they I il, the work of the tinners.' Omne ignotum pro magnified. Kb bounds have been brought down from an early period, and dusted by working tinners over property belonging to others. The estate of Fcnworthy has, in my recollection, taken in a very large tccording to an antient tin-bound, admitted at Lydford Castle W ihe reign of" Elizabeth. In the neigh hour hood of Gidleigh, nt time curate of ihe neighbouring pnrish of North Bovey, a gentleman whu unities fur eiamtng this quarter of the moor, and who is writ- known in tiio scientific world for his valuable pub licalions on the Botany of Dartmoor «J the rieintty. t One of these is probably the tracklinc before described, where the mural ctrn- r*cl« was so striking that, at a distance, il might be ciisily mistaken for a dilapidated new-take wall. [ This Is the term by which these lines are universally known among the moormen. Jta*r Is a tentacular term commonly used in Devonshire in describe row*, or courses. earth, or other substance, raised b any ridge -I ike shape. Sometimes it lake» l»e tunn of roare. which expresses the snme tiling. Wmd-rrma, orroava, arerow* tf hay, hurley, or oats, raked together in ridges, in harvest operations. This is, probably, i 001 salient Teutonic language. Her/, in Icelandic, is roqf; and hi (he ■ I'-like fiiriii. nt' I In- .i In . -, rii:i_v )iussil.]y Im ii;ii-i'.l the nricitin] idea conveyed ■ il.ir I. nil rtane. A ree/ of rocks is probably derived from the same source. i be inaptly remarked that the old word, reaver, (Ang. San. rtaftrt,) and the tandem rotor, are identical, so that from rrai>e to roave appears an ordinary trausiiiun. PERAMBULATION Or DARTMOOR. similar reaves of stone were taken to be the boundary of a f from the crown of a considerable portion of the Forest to Giles de Gidleigh, and the question at issue was thereby decided." * Nothing can be more satisfactory or conclusive, than the evidence thus adduced in favour of the existence of antient boundary-lines on Dartmoor, constructed for marking the limits of commons, grants, tin-bounds, and other like purposes. But if a corollary be thence deduced, that such boundary-lines comprehend all constructions of this kind, I cannot but venture to question, however, deferentially, a conclusion which would militate against the distinction, drawn in the former part of this work, between tr.icklines and trackways, — the latter being regarded as causeways, or means of communication ; the former, boundary-banks, dykes, or defensive lines. This dis- tinction is fortified by the opinion of Sir R. Hoare, as it has been already observed, who remarks that by following these trackways on the Wiltshire downs, in more than one instance, he has been led directly into a British village. There seems no adequate reason for supposing that the Bclgat of Wiltshire enjoyed conveniences of this kind which were not possessed by their Danmonian countrymen, and that which would be legitimately inferred from the nature of the case, seems clearly demonstrated by existing monuments. "While the boundary or tracklines vary from three or four to seven feet in breadth, trackways arc found fifteen and even twenty feet broad ; and while the former are seen to partake more or less of the mound, or vallum character, where not razed to the foundations, the track- ways are totally destitute of all such appearance, and are merely causeways, constructed of stone, rudely laid in the soil, and - raised above the natural level of the country. Wc can scarcely imagine that a line of pavement, (however rude,) twenty, or even fifteen feet wide, and of considerable length, could ever have been constructed for the mere purposes of demarkation. That roads, or ridge-ways, have served as boundaries, has already been shown, whilst the very etymology of the word demonstrates the original design of the ridge, too obviously to admit of question. The period when these works were constructed, is a point of far greater difficulty. Mr. Mason connects them with antient min ■ licv. J. H. Mason, in aleitcrto the author, 1847. " .nUH-AHMHE VALB. 133 operations, justly remarking that " the earliest trade from this country in tin ; the tinners were the most numerous class of working people. That they inhabited Dartmoor and its purlieus, their extensive works, fallen inclosures, and remains of hovels, evidently attest. 1 * Mr. Narthmore thinks the dykes, or division-lines, may be of high antiquity) and originally constructed for a defence against beasts, as well as borderers ; but he adds, " I am sometimes inclined to think them of later construction, having relation to the Normans, ■nd feudal rights and customs," and assigns as his reason for inclining lo the latter opinion, a communication he had received from Dr. Oliver," with an extract from King John's Charter, de liber- latHnu Derontte, in which Mr. Northmore thinks there is evident nlVrence to these division -lines of Dartmoor, "within which, the people of Devon could not make their deer-leaps, or indosureB." Having carefully examined these interesting monuments, we shall have no difficulty in concluding that they may have been con- nected with mining operations, and yet belong to the British period of our history. But without pursuing these speculations further, ind leaving the opinions which have been advanced, to be brought to toe test of existing remains, by the practical antiquary, we shall now descend the north-east declivity of Hamildon, below the tor, and notice a circular inclosure called Berry Pound, much overgrown with km and heather, but of similar construction to those already des- cribed in other parts of the moor. Here a salient ridge, projecting from the flank of Hamildon, throws the drainage on one side to the fibutaries of the Teign, and on the other side to those of the D«t and the Wcbburn. By following the latter, we shall soon Grilse upon a lane that enters the head of Widdecombe Vale, along *hich we shall now proceed, with the ridge of Hamildon, high on *»ltcr Stapledon, Bishop of Exeter, whilst in London during the autumn of 1320, «j Wlloua lo examine the oricinal ..-barter of John, and applied to the Abbot, Robert ««pbell, to send it up. The Abbul intrusted it to the care of a trusty friend, and the *<*op conceited it to bo of such, importance, that he caused il lo be copied into hia «»Juwr. (fol. 15a,) ad plenlorem mtmoriam fulurorum. By this charter, Iho whole 'Wotyof Deion, with the exception of Exmorr and Darlmore, were di>«fToreMtd, or "ripped of the oppressive privilege* Mtiiubed to forest*. Thr inhabitant wore even •Wed lo hunt, inclose aud impark, ' infra roenrda moranim illarum.' on fulfilling the *»«! customs; but, 'iu divisis piediclanim mi.ramm, nnn potenmt saltnloria vel hails fitire."' 134 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. the right, forming for a considerable distance, the stupendous rampart of the valley on the western side. Here the tourist will observe the most perfect counterpart in our western peninsula, of one of the lovely dales of Westmorland or Cumberland, and the antiquary will find two logan-rocks as he proceeds, within half a mile of Widde- combe church-town. Both are still moveable. The Rugglestone, as it is called, in the neighbourhood, is an immense oblong rock, of which, as I learn, on the authority of the Rev. J. H. Mason, the computed weight is one hundred and ten tons. This huge mass rests on the supporting rocks beneath, so as to form a combination of the cromlech character. Its sides measure respectively about twenty-two, nineteen, seventeen, and fourteen feet ; in mean thick- ness it is about five feet six inches. The other logan, is a flat stone, about eleven feet in length by nine in breadth, but not more than fourteen or sixteen inches thick ; which can be set in motion by the pressure of the foot. The dale expands about midway to make room for the pleasant knoll, on which the village and church are built, the " cynosure of neighbouring eyes." The lofty granite tower is finely proportioned, embattled, and finished with crocketted pinnacles. The name of this sequestered sanctuary is permanently associated in local history with one of the most awful and sublime, and the same characteristic accompaniments of moorland scenery — the thunder-storm. Moreton has been called the land of thunder, and such terrific storms as that which recently took place, when the greatest alarm was occasioned and considerable damage was done by the lightning, abundantly justify the appellation. But the skirts of the moor generally, from their mountainous character, are subject to these terrific "skiey influences ;" and Widdecombe, with the mighty ridge of Hamildon • on one side, and the lofty crest of Rippon Tor on the other, to gather and arrest the thunder-cloud, must be peculiarly exposed to such occasional visitations. Hence, probably, the appalling out- break of that awful storm, the terrors of which are traditionally - recorded,* after the lapse of more than two centuries. ♦ One of the legends connected with the storm at Widdecombe, used to rivet the attontion, and to excite the terrors of my childhood. The tale passed current, thai cither a thunderbolt or a terrific minister of wrath in an unearthly form, was pent tc inflict condign vengeance on one who was presumptuously playing at cards, in his pew by dashing him against the moorstone pillar, where the bloody evidence of his guilt ant THUNDER-STORM AT WIDDECOMBE. 135 Oft the swain, When deeply falls the winter night, narrates To his own rustic circle, seated near The peat-pil'd hearth, how in th' involving cloud Tremendous, flashing forth unusual fires Was wrapt the House of Prayer ; — thy sacred fame Romantic Widdecombe ! The village bard, In simple verse, that time has kindly spar'd, Has sung it ; and in style uncouth, The pious rural annalist has penn'd The fearful story. — Carrington. The village bard/ and the pious rural annalist thus comme- morated, were Richard Hill, schoolmaster, and the Rev. George Lyde, vicar of the parish, as we learn from Prince, author of the Worthies of Devon, who, in his memoir of Mr. Lyde, embodies an account of this awful tempest ("the chief ground," he observes, "of my inserting him here") in the quaint and characteristic style of the age. "In the year of our Lord, 1638, October 21, being Sunday, *** rectangular inclosure, forty-two feet by eleven, formed of the same materials and in the same manner as the hut-circle ; but whilst the circular form is found in every part of the moor, the rectangular i* of exceedingly rare occurrence. Below the road, and nearer the? river, just above the Eastcombe cottage, is a very fine circular foun- dation, of large dimensions, and of a very interesting description^ being, at least, thirty-eight feet in diameter, and having walls six feet in thickness. The door-jamb is of unusual size, five feet high an A six wide ; and the whole ruin is in much finer preservation than any of the smaller hut-circles. * The seat of the late Lord Ashburton. 141 Yartor is one of the tors which should not be passed by, without a visit, presenting, as it docs, the appearance of a hill fortified by the engineering of Nature herself. On the north and south are two courses, or walls, of natural rock. The western side has a low rude fence formed of granite blocks, and the eastern has a similar breast- work, though less perfect, and somewhat in advance of the parallel courses on the other sides of the tor. The whole conformation pre- sents a rude but grand inclosure, suggesting the idea of a Cyclopean hill-fort, or of a natural temple admirably adapted to the wild and mystic rites of a dark, superstitious religion. The remains of some hut-circles, and the ruins of a kistvaen, the cover-stone of which is about five feet by three, will be observed N.E. from the tor. In the vale below, the East Dart will be seen sweeping round the foot of Yartor hill, in its progress to join the western branch of the river at Dartmeet, where the confluence takes place, and where also is the junction of the three parishes of Widdecombe, Holne, and Lydford. Here we also meet again the Forest bounds, and find them well-defined by the watercourses of the Wallabrook * and the Dart. The last point noticed in the line of perambulation was King's Oven, (p. 126,) From thence an imaginery line marked the boundary of the East Quarter to AVallabrook, or Wcllabroke Head, " and soc along by Wallebrooke," say the Perambulators, " until it fall into Easter Dart," at a short distance north of Yartor foot. The East Dart then becomes the limit of the Forest, and of the parish of Lydford to the confluence, at Dartmeet. The scenery here is varied and interesting ; the fine reach of the Dart, — the noble slope and mural crown of Yartor, — the wildncss of the moor contrasted with the plantations and inclosures of Brimps, rising immediately above the bridge, — all combine to attract and arrest the tourist's attention. An aboriginal Cyclopean bridge similar to that at Post- bridge, formerly spanned the stream, but is reported to have been ■wept away, not many years since, by an inundation of the Dart. Crossing the bridge, we shall proceed by the turnpike road, leaving the line of perambulation, which follows the course of the \\ i ■■;(: Dart up the valley. Below Huckaby Tor, (which presents nothing remarkable,) we shall diverge from the main road leading to ■ One of the ni !■; kaowo by Iba! n 142 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Two Bridges, and proceed by the Holne road on the left, which winds down through the little moorland hamlet of Huckaby, to the river's bank again, in the midst of interesting border scenery. Here we cross the Dart at Hexworthy Bridge, and wind up the hill on the opposite side. Looking back over the valley of the Dart, we shall observe the river making a fine sweep round the common, rising boldly from the brink. We follow the road about a mile, and just before reaching Saddle Bridge, which crosses a rivulet called Old- brook, or Wobrook, flowing from Skaur Gut, shall notice a group of trackline-inclosures on the slope of the hill, immediately above the road on the right. Here we again touch the Forest bounds, at the point of junction of the East and South quarters. Having crossed Saddle Bridge, and advanced on the road about one hundred yards, we shall notice, on the right, a remarkable relic, constructed of materials like the circular inclosures in other parts of the moor, and presenting a similar appearance, but rectangular in form. Ruins of the wall to the height of five feet remain, where the ground declines towards the rivulet. At a short distance above, on the same declivity, will be observed the remains of a large pound-like inclosure in good preservation. The stones of which the fence is constructed are large, and are piled up more like walls, than those which are generally seen. This is particularly observable at the entrance, where, in most examples, granite slabs form the jambs ; but in the present case, the sides of the doorway are built up, and pre- sent less of a Cyclopean appearance. This doorway is on the east side, and the wall remains, in some parts, not less than three feet high. Skirting along the hollow above Oldbrook, various remains of extensive tin-works will be noticed which may have been connected with the buildings below. Returning to the Holne road, we shall soon reach Cumsdon Tor, on the left, standing on high ground, above the valley of the Dart, and opposite Sharp Tor. Here we shall probably seek for a reputed logan-stone in vain, nor although we scale the highest pile of the tor, shall we find any rock-basins, to repay our search. But we gain a commanding view of Dartmeet Bridge, and of the windings of the river at some of the most interesting points of its moorland course. Crossing the road, and taking a course southward from Cumsdon Tor, we shall proceed over a wide extent of common towards Peter's 143 Boundstone, by a gentle ascent. On t find very few monumental relics ; while those that occur, such as a cairn, near Cumsdon Tor, another about half a mile south, and an inclosure, fifty yards in circumference, at no great distance from the Utter, present nothing worthy of particular remark. Cairns also are found on the eminences at Holne Ridge and Peter's Boundstone. Returning over Holne Lea, (a wide extent of monotonous moor country,; we shall pass through Holne church-town, without : g anything of especial mark to detain us at that moorland Tillage, except the "frugal fare" for man and horse, which may he there obtained, and will scarcely fail to be needed, after so long an excursion over the breezy downs. From hence out course will continue through Shuttlcford to the road which traverses the ridge above the deep glen of the Dart, with Hrabury Wood on the left. This will soon bring us to Hembury, or Henbury Castle, a hill-fort of an oblong irregular form, in the northern part of the parish of Buckfastleigh, Lysons computes the irea inclosed by the ramparts, at about seven acres, and adds "at the north end* is a prsctorium forty-four feet by seventeen." Prom Mr. H. Woollcombe's examination of it, in 1840, it appears to have renuined in the same state as when we first visited it. Henbury occu- pies a commanding position on the wooded ridge which forms the western bank of the Dart, between Holne Bridge and Buckfast Abbey. Mr. W'onllcombe's description gives the following particulars. "The ramparts are all very entire, and the ditches on the south, west, and put of the north sides, are still deep, having been forty feet in width. On die north and east the ground sinks so precipitously, as to form a natural fence. These sides are now clothed with coppice, and may perhaps have been always wooded." Hence this observant antiquary justly infers, that Henbury may have been one of the antient British towns surrounded by thick woods. "The Fra^torium," Mr. Woollcombe coutinucs, "I imagine to be of more modern construction, and it is so completely a mound of earth m to lead me to think it might have been raised there in Norman «. If I conclude it to have been occupied by the Romans, and then to have had this PrEetorium added to it, I do not see why they 144 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. should have possessed themselves of it, not being connected with any road through the county.*" The site is commanding and well- chosen for defence, as well as for observation, — the vale of the Dart, Holne, Brent Beacon, Haldon, and the southern heights of Dartmoor are all in view. By the road which skirts the western side of the fort, we shall soon descend to Buckfast Abbey and Dart Bridge, and shall terminate our lengthened excursion at Buckfastleigh, a small market town, whose church, conspicuously placed on the brow of an eminence, which rises above the Dart, has lately been rendered an interesting object to the whole neighbourhood by the completion of the spire, " Whose finger points to heaven." This, with other judicious repairs of this venerable fabric, reflect credit on the liberality of the vicar and parishioners, by whose exer- tions the old truncated, half-finished spire, which had so long been a blemish on the scene, was removed, f Our next excursion will lead us along the great Plymouth road to Dean gate ; from whence we shall branch off to the right, in search of the scene thus described by Polwhele. " About four miles from Ashburton, in the parish of Dean Prior, the vale of Dean-Burn unites the terrible and the graceful in so striking a manner, that to enter this recess hath the effect of enchantment; whilst enormous rocks seem to close around us, amidst the deep foliage of venerable trees and the roar of torrents. And Dean-Burn would yield a noble machinery for working on superstitious minds under the direction of the Druids." Leaving the inclosed country, and proceeding westward, we shall return to the extensive tract of common land, J which we left, on * Woollcombe's Fortified Mills in Devon, MSS. He appends a note, quoting from Polwhele, to the following effect. " Some yean since, a great number of oral stones were dug up at Henbury. They were plano-convex bodies, about three inches in dia- meter ; no doubt they were the sling-stones of the antient Britons." f The ecclesiastical antiquary will remark that this is the only spire among all the border churches All the others have towers. J These, and similar tracts of waste, are probably those referred to by the Peram- bulators of 1608, when they " present that the soyle of dyvers moores, commons and wastes, lyinge for the most parte, aboute the same Forest of Dartmoore, and usuallie called by the name of Common of Devonshire, is parcel of the Dutchie of Cornwall ; and that fosters, and other officers of His Majesty, and his progenitors, kings and queens of England, have always accustomed to drive the said commons and waste {(rounds, and all the commons, moores, and wastes of other men (lyinge in like manner about the said forest, home to the corne hedges, and leape yeates rounde aboute the same common and forest,) some few places only excepted." — Presentment of the Perambulator*, 1606. IVOS IlKAIl 145 southwards, tu visit Henbury Castle. On the ridge, near a aim, we shall find a moorland road, coming up in a straight direc- tion from Dean, and here dividing into two branches, one diverging to the left, towards Huntingdon (or, as it is in the Ordnance Map, ■ ton) Cross and the Abbot's Way, and the other proceeding by Puppers and Ryder's Hill, to Aune, or Avon Head. We shall remark that these moors, extending between the Avon and the Dart, are remarkably deficient in tors, which so strikingly characterise the borders in other parts. The monumental relics arc also com- paratively few, and consist principally of cairns on the most con- spicuous eminences. We shall now return to the boundary of the South Quarter, in the midst of these monotonous moors, at Knattleburrow, about a mile to the eastward of the springs of the Avon ; this is supposed, by the Perambulators, " to be the same that is called, in the old records, Guattcshill," and by Risdon, (apparently,) Battshill. From the point, where the south and cast quarters meet at Wobrooke, or Oidbrook, as mentioned above, in our last excursion, it is not easy to trace the Forest bounds, which are described as "from thence Hnvalhe asccuding to Drylake, alias Drywoorke, and from thence ascending by Drylake into Crefeild Ford, or Dryfeild Ford, and from thence !o Knattlcburrow" — but from this point we shall again have the advantage of the satisfactory guidance of natural objects. From Knattleburrow the boundary proceeds lineally to Western Wella- brook Head, following that stream till it falls into the river Avon. From this point, the boundary-line is carried to Western Whitta- burrow,* or Peter's Cross, and from thence it proceeds in a straight tb'rection to Redlake foot, a rivulet which rises about a mile north of Enne Pound, falling into the Ernie, and marking the boundary of the Forest at the latter place. But we have again reached a tract, where the hills are crowned with tors, and the moors abound with objects of antiquarian interest. We shall therefore leave the Forest bounds, and explore the inter- esting district, between the line of perambulation on the north ; the verge of the common lands on the south ; the Erme westward, and the Avon on the east. Proceeding eastward, from Peter's * Tlie ['erwnb ulaUuu aaja Eastern Whitttburrow, but, Ll would a] 146 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Cross, and following the old road at the foot of Western Whitta- burrow, called Abbot's Way, we shall regain the banks of the Avon. Leaving Huntingdon Cross on the left, we trace its course below Eastern Whittaburrow, through a wild and waste hollow, to Shipley Bridge, noticing some vestiges of aboriginal circles on the declivity as we proceed. The channel is steep and rocky, and the river flows vigorously towards the inclosed country, through a narrow gorge, flanked on one side by Black Tor, and on the other, by Shipley Hill. The single arched moorstone bridge, — little verdant pasture-crofts won from the waste, — a moor-farm, scarcely sheltered from the upland storms by a few sycamores, — peat stacks and granite bowlders, — furze brakes and heather banks, — rugged moor-tracks winding up from the valley to the heights above, — all combine to impart a pleasing character of border wildness to the scene. Following the moor-track which leads from Shipley Bridge westwards, with Black Tor on the right and Bedlake rivulet on the left, we shall trace the stream upwards to the bog below Three Burrow Tor, from whence it takes its rise. Ascending the slope on the northern side, we shall strike upon a fine trackway, coming up the hill from the north-west, sixteen feet wide in many parts, and ending in the large cairn on the crest of the height. This cairn is of enormous size, probably one of the very largest in Devonshire ; and with the two others, immediately near it on the same eminence, and in a straight line, gives name to this conspicuous and well- known tor. The cairns appear to have been erected upon the line of the trackway which we shall trace from the north-western tumulus. through the centre, to the south-eastern, and from thence shall follow it in that direction to the extent of a mile. Proceeding towards Coryndon Ball, we shall observe an entrance gate opening upon the inclosed lands adjoining the common, through which a road leads to South Brent. Within a hundred yards of the gate will be noticed a congeries of massive stones, in which the observant investigator will have no difficulty to discover unequivocal evidence of a cromlech, once standing on this spot, but now in ruins, and apparently overthrown by intentional violence ; as I observed that the supporters are not crippled under the impost, as if pressed down by the superincumbent mass, but are lying in situations where they could not have accidentally fallen. The third supporter stands erect BUKNT Bl-.Ai ON. in in its original position, of a pyramidal form, only four feet high, and five feet wide in the broadest part. The impost, or quoit, is eleven feet long, fire feet at the widest end, and fourteen inches in average thickness. There are no other stones scattered around, bo as to lead to the supposition that these are only large masses of granite, among man; ethers, naturally thrown into these positions. There is only another large flat stone, of greater size than the impost, suggesting the notion of a covering for an Arkite cell. The height of the supporters of the overthrown cromlech, appears more adapted to the purposes of a kistvaen than of a cromlech, and it may also be observed that the monument stood at the verge of a large mound of stone and sod, sixty yards in circumference. A few score yards, S.S.E., are the evident remains of a cairn, sacked, doubtless, to build the boundary-wall adjoining. While thus far on our way to South Brent, we shall take advantage of the moor-road over Coryndon Ball, to visit some interesting objects in and about that little market town, which is ily situated on the Avon, at the foot of a lofty pyramidal hill, known by the name of Brent Beacon. Passing through the village, and going about half a mile along the old Exeter road, (which winds over its eastern shoulder by a toilsome ascent,) we ■hall find a pathway leading to the top of the hill. From hence an live view spreads before us in every direction." In front, the rale of the Avon and the South Hams; on the north and west, the bleak expanse of the moor ; while to the cast, the prospect extends to the heights of Hal don. Descending over the steep declivity, on the north-western side, wc shall reach the banks of the Avon, above the village, and proceed to the bridge, which i3 a single lofty arch spanning the deep and narrow channel of the genuine mountain stream, that runs chafing and foaming over the granite masses below. A pretty cottage, redolent with roses, and a "trim garden," overhanging the torrent, give contrast and effect to the scene. Returning by the river-side, through a stately avenue of beech, in the vicarage lawn, we shall pass the church, which is bounded on one side by a thickly- wooded and steep bank, rising immediately above the river. There is a fine old yew in the centre, which, with the mHjM of u uil.Uiig which furimrls siui.nl on the ji I. riv .. 148 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. low machicolated and battlemented tower, — the chancel higher than the nave, externally, — the remains of the screen, and the piers and arches in the interior, — will not fail to detain and interest the tourist. Following the Plymouth road to Brent .Bridge, and there diverging towards the commons, we shall pass by Glaze Meet, on our way to the Eastern Beacon, a hill which, rising immediately above the inclosed country, forms a conspicuous object on the southern borders of the moor, and is crowned with a characteristic tor, the western pile of which is surrounded by a cairn-like agglomeration of stones. We shall observe that all the neighbouring heights are crowned with cairns, as we proceed southward, to Butterton Hill and the Western Beacon, which (if we may regard the chain of hills that encircles Dartmoor, as a vast natural circumvallation,) we shall describe as a huge ravelin projecting into the South Hams and over- awing the lowlands. Of all the views gained from the border- heights of Dartmoor, none is more extensive, varied, and inter- esting, than that which greets the eye from this the southernmost point of the great Devonshire moorlands. The South Hams lie mapped out, at our feet, with the iron-bound coast from Torbay to Plymouth Sound, forming the rugged boundary seaward. Beyond, the blue expanse of the English Channel stretches away far and wide, from Portland, in Dorset, to the Lizard Point, in Cornwall. Bays, headlands, and estuaries, diversify the sea-board scene, while mansions, churches, villages, and farms, are plentifully interspersed among the corn-fields, pastures, orchards, and woodlands, which occupy the whole district from the foot of the hills to the verge of the channel. The estuary of the Yealm, beyond Kitley, and the Lary, near Saltram, being completely landlocked, have the pleasing appearance of inland lakes, while the steeples and forts of Plymouth, rising amidst the smoke and haze of a populace and busy port, form a conspicuous and interesting feature in the western distance. Nor shall we fail to notice the railway's mazy track winding round the base of those rugged hills, and marking, by those works of almost more than Roman daring, (the viaducts at Glaze, Ivybridge, Blatch- ford and Slade, in this immediate neighbourhood,) the memorable sera in which we live. In such a spot as this, the admirer of natural beauty may be pardoned, if, catching the enthusiasm of a Goldsmith, "% l\ l BRIDGE. 140 he cannot refrain from apostrophising the varied objects of interest which meet his delighted gaze,— claiming them as his own, by the very power of approbating and enjoying their charms. Ye glitt'ring totvu*, with wealth ami sj.h-iuluiir crowu'd; Ye fields, whan Summer spreads profusion round : Ye lakes, whose vessels catch tha busy gale ; Ye swains, whose laboara (ill the flowery vale ; For tin', your tributary stores combine, ■:i's heir, tile world, the world is mine. — Traveller. U" have thus reached, as already observed, the southernmost point of the great western waste, from whence, with a trusty guide, rible to traverse, without any other obstacle, than those of bogs and morasses, tors and clatters, a distance of twenty-two miles, over an uninterrupted succession of moorlands to the fences of Okchampton Park in the north. Bending our steps northwards, and skirting the western slope of the hill, we shall notice some remains of hut-circles, and observe below Black Tor, a large pond, which, in winter, might almost aspire to the distinction of a mountain tarn. On the common, above Lukesland Grove, are traces of a able circle, or ring, much dilapidated, which will not detain us from our inn, in the valley, to which we shall hasten through the moor-gate above Stowford, and crossing the line of the South Devon railway, in front of the viaduct, which here spans the ravine at one hundred and fifteen feet above the waterway of the Erme, and appears suspended in mid-air, — shall soon reach the border village of Ivy-bridge and there close our excursion. Ivybridgc, situated at the 'foot of the southern heights of Dart- ir, on the banks of the Erme, has been long celebrated for the picturesque bridge, drapcried with ivy and overhung with luxuriant foliage, to which it owes its name. The great mail road from Plymouth to Exeter, was here, in former years, carried over the deep rocky channel of the Erme ; but more recently a commodious bridge has been erected lower down, now superseded in its turn by the South Devon railway, whose viaduct we have observed spanning the deep glen above the village, between Hanger Down and Stowford. Nil raortalibus nrduiiiu est. Gelum ijisniii jvetitmip. 150 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Passing below this aerial highway, we shall proceed up the sylvan dell of the Erme to Harford Bridge, and from thence by Harford church, a little rustic sanctuary on the verge of the moor, with its characteristic granite steeple, and well-planted green adjoining, shall enter upon the commons, through a moor-gate hard by. In our progress along the side of the hill, above the eastern bank of the Erme, we shall notice a kistvaen in considerable perfection, within a circle of nine stones still erect, one of which is a large slab four feet six long, by three feet wide in the broadest part. The kistvaen itself is four feet six inches by two feet four, — the coverstone appears to have been broken, and has fallen into the cavity, which is about eighteen inches deep. This antient relic will be discovered without difficulty, by a practised eye, as the surrounding common is remark- ably free from natural rocks, furze, and heather. The lower part of the common, towards the river, is inclosed by a new-take wall, within which, we shall observe a group of singular inclosures, which the antiquary will find it difficult to classify. Antient tracklines, or boundary-banks, are mingled with walls of (apparently) more recent construction, yet these are evidently not erected for the ordinary purposes of modern fences. There are also the foundations of several large circular inclosures, one of which has the jambs erect, and another looks like a dilapidated cairn. The most perfect of these inclosures is thirty-two yards in circumference ; but there are no hut-circles of the usual size, indicating aboriginal population. Traces of antient excavations might lead to the suppo- sition that these appearances are referable to the mining operations of former days, but the most plausible conjecture will still leave much room for speculation. The Erme runs at the foot of the declivity, and the battlements of Harford church are seen peeping oyer the shoulder of the hill southward. Proceeding up the slope of the common, N.E., we shall cross a line of bound-stones, tending towards the cairn on the summit of Sharp Tor. This cairn is about sixty yards in circumference, and at least ten feet high. A mountain track, which it may be possible for turf-carts to traverse, passes below this tor, and skirting Three Barrow Tor, bears onward to Erme plains. We shall follow this track to Redlake, where we left the Forest bounds in our last excursion, and noticing Erme Pound, near the river, shall trace the boundary along l.AM.rouitE KI8TVAEN. 151 the rivet to Erme, or Arme Head, which the Perambulators take to be a place named in the said [old] records G ritnsgrove." Hence we shall i-iss a tract of unvaried morasses, or bog-lauds, to Plym Head, following the guidance of the Forest boundary-line, which is here drawn from point to point, — from the source of the Avon to the if the Plym. Here the South Quarter ends, and the Western takes its commencement; and near tins point, about a quarter of a mile west of Plym Head, in Langcornbe Bottom, with Shecpstor looming boldly against the western sky, we shall observe one of the Boost perfect specimens of the antient kistvaen in the whole of ■ if This aboriginal sarcophagus is formed of granite slabs, abuut a baud-breadth in thickness. The side stones of the sarco- phagus arc four feet nine in length ; the footstone is two feet three inches. — I 111 breadth of the kistvaen in the clear, The depth is about ■i i. The co vers tone has fallen in, but in other respects this auticut sepulchre is singularly perfect. It seems to have been con- structed on an artificial mound, or tumulus, slightly elevated :ibove the natural level- A circular inclosurc, thirteen yards in circumference, surrounds the kistvaen; some of the stones of which it is formed, remain erect in their original position, others have fallen. The ground, on all sides, is much overgrown with heather, and the anti- • Some etymologists have triced the nameof Graham, or Grirme, in Grtmsgrove mil (irimspound. and have thought tint these appellations should be included in the same •tjino logical category with Graham's Dyke. t 1 am indebted for my knowledge of this Liitercsliris riiic "!' aniiuiiiiY, ti> ilie kind. »*M*(P. O. Treby, Esq., of Goodamoor. one of the four Deputy Fo res I era of Dartmoor, »>nu tli.ironehly acquainted with every part of the moor in this nei;;libour)ioiid, and whoso tofMioo to the sporis of the field, for which Dartmoor affords such singular advantages, toes aol prevent his interesting himself, in the preservation of the venerable monuments **»J-gons times. The votaries of nature, no less than the sons of Ntmrod, will cor. *»U» respond to the general sentiment of the following characteristic lines, which were •Muintlv. brought under my notice, at Goodamoor, and cannot be more appositely '■■nicd, khan in this place. Let Fashion exult in her giddy e-areer. And headlong her course o'er the universe steer; There"a a land in Hie west never bow'd to her throne, Where Nature for ages lias triuinph'd alone, And Dian olt revels in wild ecstasy, O'er gray granite tors, or soft mossy lea, Where the fox loves to kennel, llie btiBiard in soar All boundless and free o'er the rugged Dartmoor. Far retnov'd be the day ere fashion deface The features and charms, of this primitive place ! The freehold of Nature. though rugged it be, Long, long may it flourish, utisu] lif.i and free ; May the fox love to kennel, the tiuszard to soar, The tenants of Nature on rugged Dartmoor. 152 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. quary, without a guide, may have some difficulty in finding the object of his search ; but by crossing the boggy table-land from Yealm Head to Plym Head, N.N.W., and by following one of the springs of the Plym, as it flows down Langcombe Bottom, carefully examining the right-hand bank as he proceeds, he will not fail to discover it near the northern brink of the stream. Or if he comes from the Sheepstor side, and traces the river upwards, he will find it conversely on the left hand. And whilst he will not grudge the trouble of penetrating these difficult and dreary moorlands, he will scarcely fail to be struck with surprise, to find this primitive tomb in the midst of the wilder- ness, so far remote from every vestige of the occupation of living inhabitants. Turning from the Forest boundary, and mounting the bank opposite to the kistvaen, we shall traverse the morasses, and pass a modern bound-stone, marked on three faces L. B. P., in our way to Yealm Head. This river takes its rise on the southern yerge of the swampy table-land, which stretches to a wide extent above the sources of the Avon, the Erme, the Plym, and the Yealm. We shall follow the course of the latter stream, down a narrow moorland glen, between Broadall Down and Stallmoor. As we skirt along the western bank, we shall observe, on the declivity of Stallmoor, opposite, evident vestiges of circular inclosures. In this glen, about a mile from the source, we shall observe the ruins of a curious building, which was conjectured, by Mr. Wooll- combe, (who discovered it in 1844,) to have been a hermitage. " Far in a wild, unknown to public view," it certainly is, and thus might have met the wishes of the most solitary anchorite. Sooth to say, the recluse might have found some difficulty in supplying his scrip with fruits and herbs, like the " gentle hermit of the dale " of lyric fame, except when June had ripened the purple whortle- berry ; but a supply of water from the spring, clear and abundant, the Yealm would furnish, as it flowed close to the walls of the sequestered cell, in a succession of cheery little waterfalls. A nar- row strip of level ground runs along the river's brink, backed by a rocky scarp on the cast. Under the lee of this ledge, are the ruined walls of a small oblong building, inclosing an area about twenty-one feet by sixteen. The walls are formed of large stones, laid in earth ; no mortar appears to have been used. The remains 158 of the walls are from one foot to three in height. Mr. Woollcomhe thought he could trace the appearance of the remains of a piscina in the eastern wall, where a recess will be observed, formed of granite slabs, bo vestiges of a fire-place appear. The door was in the north-cast comer. A squared stone, much mutilated, will also be noticed, in which two oblong apertures have been made, but for what object is not apparent. Nor is it easy to decide for what purposes the building itself could have been creeled, in this wild and remote spot, even if the evidence in favour of its eremitical character should be deemed questionable or insufficient. Leaving the banks of the Yealm, and crossing Broadall Down, W. by S., we shall reach one of the tributaries of that river, rising in the hill-side below Pen Beacon. On the ascent immediately above, we ehall observe the remains of numerous hut-circles and other vestiges of antient occupation, within a large irregular curvilinear losure. From hence, mounting the hill, N.W. by N. we shall make for the cairn on the summit, well-known by the name of Pen eon. From this cairn, a trackline proceeds directly along the ridge; this we shall follow in the direction of the neighbouring eminence, which we shall observe rising above Pen Beacon to the north. As we proceed, we find the trackline which probably here Mrred as a boundary, on its approach to Shell Top, diverging from the tor, on the summit, a little to the east. Here, as on Whitta- borrow, a cairn has been built round the tor, which is of small size, sad consists of layers of native rock, rising like shelves above the unrounding aggregation of loose stones. Shell Top, or, to adopt the more euphonious appellation of the moormen, Pensheil, rises to the height of sixteen hundred feet above the sea-level, and is 908 hundred and thirty higher than Pen Beacon. As frontier heights, these are both conspicuous objects from all the adjacent Wkads; whilst the prospect from their summits, comprehending iter part of those objects seen from the Western Beacon, is •till more extensive towards the north-west, where Mistor, Cockstor, Mil Stapletor are seen on the western borders, and Bellevor is •htwrnible in the very centre of the moor, peering over the line °* Uble-land on the north-east. The lakc-Uke appearance of the Stearics of our Devonshire rivers is here even still more decisive. 154 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. If acquainted with the country, we can almost trace, by means of its wooded banks, a great part of the course of the Yealm, — Pride of our austral vales, as Carrington styles it, from the point where we left it before, through the pleasant vale of Blatchford, (with the church and village of Corn- wood on the western bank above,) onwards to the estuary, where, surrounded by the groves and heights of Kitley, Puslinch, and Wem- bury, we can discern its tidal waters " sleeping in sunshine," like an inland lake. The Lary, (the estuary of Plym,) seen curving round Saltram point; the Lynher, or St. German's lake; and the Tamar between Beer Ferrers and Llandulph, are all visible, presenting the appearance of inland sheets of water, more or less extensive. But we must leave this noble panorama, and descend the south- western slope of the hill, to examine a considerable aboriginal village, where the hut-circles are of the usual description ; but the circum- vallation is rectangular, instead of oval or circular as it is more generally seen. Lower down is Whithill Yeo, where the Tony, a considerable tributary of the Plym, takes its rise. Passing through a moor-gate, we now proceed S.S.W. to Cholwich town moor, where, on the lands of the Earl of Morley, near Torch Gate, there is a single line of stones, placed at regular intervals, of precisely the same des- cription as the double lines, or avenues, already noticed in other parts of the moor. This venerable monument of antiquity has been lamentably despoiled within the last year, but the line can still be traced to the extent of two hundred and thirty yards. The stones are placed erect, at intervals of from three to six feet ; at the northern extremity is a sacred circle of five yards in diameter, formed of six stones. The line runs nearly north and south ; the highest stone is about six feet. I learn, with regret, that a much larger stone was removed a short time since ; this is described as having been twelve feet high, and was therefore probably a maen, similar to that in the large village at Merivale. Under any circumstances, such spoliation would be most justly censured; how much more, when the whole neighbourhood abounds with granite, in all respects adapted for the purposes of the railway contractors, so that there is not the slightest plea for the sacrificing those monuments of past ages, at the shrine of modern enterprise. HEMERDON BALL. 155 Passing through Torch moor-gate, in the direction of Brimedge, we shall notice some traces of tracklines and hut-circlea much oblite- rated. From hence we shall pass Goodamoor, the seat of P. Treby, Esq., a situation well-adapted for the residence of the Deputy- Forester of the South Quarter. Here we follow the Plympton road through the village of Sparkwell,* and passing 13eechwood,t the seat of Col. Mudge, to whose Ordnance Map of Devon the Dartmoor tourist is so much indebted. We here leave the Plympton road, and turning to the right, shall skirt the eastern side of Hemerdon Ball, on which an encampment for troops was formed at the beginning of the present century, in prospect of a French invasion ; and which was then a heath-covered common, but which has since been culti- vated to the summit by the judicious management of Capt. Wooll- combe, of Hemerdon, the proprietor. From hence, we shall soon enter upon a good road, which passes from Ivybridge through Cornwood towards Tavistock, and as we advance along the commons, shall notice the china-clay works, on the lands of the Earl of Morley and Capt. Woollcombe, mentioned in the Geological View. (Appendix No. 1., p. 207.) By the road- side, on the right, on Lee Moor, north of the buildings connected with >:ks, is a rude, massive cross, the shaft of which appears to have been broken off, as there is only enough now left to raise the cross slightly above the large block, in which a socket has been formed to receive it. Diverging from this road, and proceeding to the westward of the Morley clay works, we shall find, near the road from those works to Shaugh church-town, a singular relic, • Here we shall notice a little unpretending chapel, which has been provided for ihit distant pan of the extensive pnrign (>f V/lympUm St. Mary, ?>y the indefatigable cxertioni of Ihe zealous incumbent, the Bev. W. J. Coppard, seconded by the liberality of lie neighbouring proprietors. t The Beech grow* vigorously in many spots on our moorland borders. At Great Fnlford, the fine old seal of Baldwin Fulford, Esq.. is a noble avenue, so widely spread- ing tint ViTftiL might nave placed Tityrns with perfect satisfaction under the shade of the least. Col. Mudge'i seat, on the soul h hordor, derives its name from a number of the** stately tree*, which adorn and characterise the spot. In anticnt times the numbere wen probably far greater, and with the oak, might have been frequented by out Pagan ancestors for ihe purposes of worship; and if our excursion from the height* of Pensheil to beechwood has been made under a cloudless sky, *e shall fully enter iulo Ibe feelings of the friend of Wilberforee, who thus felicitously describe* the amenities of a beech en froto, and carries us back to Druidieal associations. "O what a deucioui oralory is a beech wood, in a calm hot day 1 Not a leaf stirring,— not a sound.— a sacred kind of Rudy light, with berc and there a straggling sunbeam, like the gleam of providential a direct course to Corn wood. At Lcemill Bridge it is crossed by the great Plymouth "•d, puses Ycalmptuti, to which il gives mime, mid 111 eels the sea in a lotely esluary, ramplrtely landlocked by tin' htiphls el Weuibury, Newton Ferrers, and llevelatoke, no Uloltam, »t full tide, two kikes of singular beauty. The Emit, or Ann e, takes it! rise suulli of Outer's Beam, about a mile and a half foro Pljm Hf this massy chair." After speaking of the Reeve, (the probable despoiler of Crockern Tor,) he adds, " but I am fully convinced that originally designed for a much greater personage; no less, perhaps, than an Arcbdruid, or President, of some court of judica- ture.*" Dennabridge Pound occupies a large area, inclosed by a rough moorstonc wall. It is now used for the forest drifts, and is capable of containing vast numbers of cattle. Dennabridge adjoins the Ashburton road, which we shall follow, until we cross a small tributary of the Dart. Near this rivulet, on the common, east of the road, is an aboriginal village inclosure, but without any remains of hut-circles within the area. We have now again approached the Forest bounds, at the junction of the East and South Quarters, on the West Dart, We therefore return over the common, near the rivulet above mentioned, with Loughtor about balf-a-mile north. From hence, we can make our way through a 172 PERAMBULATION OV DARTMOOR. succession of inclosed common lands to Belle vor Tor, below v on the S.S.W., is a huge moorstone slab, raised about nine inches above the natural rock on which it stands, so as to be mode easily to vibrate. This is, probably, one of the many similar masses on the moor which have fortuitously assumed the lagan character. Should we search for rock-basins on this conspicuous tor, we shall be disap- pointed; but the venerable pile affords a fine central station, from whence a noble panoramic view of the moor is obtained. Holne Lee, southward ; Hessary, Great Mis tor, Longaford Tor, west ; Sitia- ford, north; Hamildon, Houndtor, and Rippon Tor, east; with Buckland Beacon, Quarnian "Down, and Yartor, south-west ; and ■ vast extent of waste, are the characteristic objects by which, on all sides, we are surrounded. In the name of Bellevor, as well as in Belstonc and Beltor, many, with Polwhele, have imagined that they can discover traces of the idol worship of the antient Britons, and proofs of the eastern origin of their religion, supposing these places to have been so designated, from the celebrated oriental deity, Bel, or Baal. Descending from the tor, northward, we cross a moor-road leading from the turnpike to Bellevor Farm. Crossing this road to the common opposite, we shall find many aboriginal relics on Lakehead Hill. On the higher part of the eminence is a congeries of stones, possibly the ruins of a very large kistvaen, one of the side- stones being about six feet in length. At the east end, the stone is fallen, and the cover is also displaced. On the same hill, about a furlong N.W., is a kistvaen in great perfection. The sides, which are about four feet four inches long, by one foot nine, stand fifteen inches above the ground. Another kistvaen, at no great distance, will be observed in connexion with a cairn, as in other places. We return to the rough moor-road, and having noticed, on the descent opposite Bellevor, a circle, twenty yards in circumference, shall proceed by Bellevor Farm (one of the oldest moor-farms in the Forest) to Bellevor Bridge adjoining. Below the modern structure over the East Dart, are the remains of an aboriginal Cyclo] bridge of three openings. The rude piers and abutments still r> and one massive granite slab still spans each of the eastern i western openings ; but the centre stone has been displaced, and no trace of it appears in the stream below. This primitive bridge a structure yclopeu. 1 remain, tern and anil tin AKCHEHTON. 173 up the stream, but the stones large, measuring only twelve similar to that at Post Bridge, high which span the waterway are not feet six in length. From hqnee, passing over Redridge Down, where we shall notice a circular inclosure in a very imperfect state, we shall proceed to the Wallabrook, above which Quarnian Tor rises on the south-eaBt. Ill this direction we shall observe many cairns, but none sufficiently remarkable to detain us from our progress up the Wallabrook, for the purpose of tracing the line of perambulation from hence to King's Oven, where we left it in our former excursion. (See page l~f>. j Having observed the cairn which, on the summit of the eminence, marked this well-ascertained boundary, and exercised our ingenuity, as others have done, in endeavouring to find some relics which would account for this curious designation, we shall direct our course westward, and leaving Mcrripit Hill on the right, shall proceed to Post Bridge, on the East Dart. The aboriginal bridge has been already described ; but when we observe that this is the scene of considerable agricultural improvements, and that many dwellings have been erected in the immediate neighbourhood, we shall be as much surprised as pleased, to find that this venerable relic of primitive times has escaped demolition, and has been preserved to a period when a more enlightened appretiatiou of national antiquities extensively prevails. We shall remark that the antient structure bears more east and west than the modern bridge, and probably thus points to the great central trackway which passes over Chittaford Down. We may hope that in future, this antient British structure will be under the protection of a neighbouring gentleman, who, whilst he has proved himself one of the most successful, as well as one of the most enterprising, improvers of the moor, has displayed the most laudable anxiety for the preservation of the remains of antiquity. At Archerton, on the Dart, just above Post Bridge, Mr. J. N. Bennett, of Plymouth, under a grant from the Duchy, has inclosed a considerable tract of land, in the centre of which he has built a comfortable residence. On the slope in front of the bouse are some antiquities of great interest, which are now protected within a recently erected fence. The remains of a singularly formed elliptical inclosure can be traced, with an entrance on the south-cast, *herc the oval outline, instead of being continuous, is bent into two 174 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. circular sweeps, between which, apparently, was the original entrance to the inclosure. Within are vestiges of tracklines, and the ruins of an aboriginal hut, where not only the formation but the remains of the walls are still to be seen. Some years since, it presented the most perfect specimen of a ruined British habitation, of more solid construction than those generally found on the moor, as this appeared to have been constructed of stone, the interstices being filled with sod, and to have had a roof of the bee-hive, or domical form. Within the inclosure are other antient remains, and in the immediate vicinity, relics of kistvaens, more or less perfect. One of these primitive sepulchres may be particularly noticed, as it is surrounded by an external circle eight feet in diameter. The kistvaen itself measures four feet six inches by four feet three. Between the boundary of Mr. Bennett's estate and the Dart, a moor-track runs north, towards Hamlyn's New-take, where we shall notice several hut-circles. Still proceeding along the high ground, above the valley of the Dart, we shall observe in Templer's New-take, opposite Hartland Tor, and about a mile above Post Bridge, a Cyclopean circumvallation, which deserves the name of a miniature Grimspound ; but, unfortunately, its rampart is much less perfect, having been demolished on the N.W. and partially built upon for the purpose of forming a modern fence, which intersects the area on this side. A large segment of the circular inclosure, how- ever, still remains, forming a sweep below the new-take wall, two hundred and twenty-four yards in length. The original base of the wall, or rampart, appears to have been about twelve feet wide ; in some parts of the circumvallation, it has more the appearance of a wall than usual, as the stones are piled upon each other instead of being heaped up promiscuously. On the north side, the rampart re-appears beyond the new-take wall, but here the spoliation has been lamentable. We shall notice a large hut-circle with others of smaller dimensions, and the whole forms one of the most striking and interesting objects in the Forest. Passing over Broad Down and Ladehill, we shall notice several cairns on the heights, and, turning southwards, shall cross Chittaford Down beyond the inclosed lands of Archerton. Here we shall trace, without difficulty, the trackway already described, as it passes from the East Dart westward, over the common, to Waydown Tor. From I hence we shall scale the steep acclivity of the long ridge which runs between Cherrybrook and the West Dart, and terminates in an inland promontory at Crockem Tor. This ridge is fortified by a range of tors in succession, of which the most conspicuous are Longaford, Betor, and White, or Whitten Tor. On some are rock- basins, and, near Longaford, a hut-circle of the usual dimensions. Of these relics, we shall observe many more groups, and a pound of irregular form, on the western slope of the hill, above the narrow vale of the West Dart, and near the " lonely wood of Wistman." Wistman's Wood is the third of Risdon's " three remarkable things" in the Forest of Dartmoor. By him, it is described as con- sisting of " some acres of wood and trees that arc a fathom about, and yet no taller than a man may touch the top with his hand." The general description of this third wonder of Dartmoor, is iu sufficient accordance with its present condition to warrant the con- clusion that the lapse of more than two centuries has not materially changed its aspect, and that probably for a much longer period it has presented the same singular appearance as now. The traditionary account that the wood was planted by Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon and Albemarle, in the thirteenth century, has been related by some authors ; but, as Mr, Bray justly remarks, " to any one who has visited the spot, it is evident, no other hand has planted it thau that of God."'* Nor can there be any reasonable doubt, that here we behold the poor relics of those sylvan honours which we may reasonably conclude once graced many of the moorland vales and acclivities, without contending that the entire district (whose soil, as Dr. Moore t has shown, is unfavourable to the growth of trees,) was at any period one continuous forest, hi the ordinary acceptation of the term. The whole world cannot boast, probably, a greater curiosity, in sylvan archaeology, than this solitary grove in the Devonshire wilder- ness. AVordsworth has celebrated the characteristic yews of the Lakelands, in his description of the " Fraternal Four of Borrowdale ;" but whilst venerable yews may be found in a thousand English sanc- • Tamar and Tavy, vol. i., p. 102. This gentleman also refers to a Perambulation of (he Hoar, (made immediately after the conquest, slid still preserved among the Records of [he Duchy,) to prorc that" Wistman's Wood was, even at that remole period, much the same as it now appears." t Appendix, No. iii., p. 217. 176 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. tuaries, the antient storm-stricken oaks of Wistman are without recorded parallel. Viewed from the opposite steep, when sullen clouds have lowered down upon Longaford Tor, and shut out all surrounding objects, — when mist-wreaths half shroud and half reveal their hoary branches and moss-covered trunks, — there is something almost unearthly in their aspect Our native bard has however chosen the profound sunlit repose of a moorland noon (and it is only in the shelterless solitudes of the moor, amidst the quivering rack of a heated atmosphere, that the truthfulness and beauty of his- imagery can be appretiated,) as most perfectly in keeping with the old mys- terious grove which had lived perhaps more than a thousand years, but had not grown for centuries. How heavily That old wood sleeps in the sunshine ; — not a leaf Is twinkling, not a wing is seen to move Within it ; — but, below, a mountain stream, Conflicting with the rocks, is ever heard, Cheering the drowsy noon. Of this grove, This pigmy grove, not one has climb'd the air, So emulonsly that its loftiest branch May brush the traveller's brow. The twisted roots Have clasp'd, in search of nourishment, the rocks, And straggled wide, and pierc'd the stony soil : — In vain, denied maternal succour, here A dwarfish race has risen. Round the boughs Hoary and feeble, and around the trunks, With grasp destructive, feeding on the life That lingers yet, the ivy winds, and moss Of growth enormous. E'en the dull vile weed Has fix'd itself upon the very crown Of many an antient oak ; and thus, refus'd By Nature kindly aid,— dishonour^— old — Dreary in aspect, — silently decays The lonely wood of Wistman. To add to this sketch, faithful and graphic as it is, would be superfluous and impertinent. It will be only necessary to state, that the account of the stature of the trees must be taken with due wistman 's wood. 177 allowance for poetical license. Ten feet might be more correctly given as the average height of the trees, — nor can the wood be said to be silently decaying. Although it is probable that the trees have not increased in height, for many an age, yet these dwarf patriarchs of the Forest produce bud, leaf, and acorn, in their season. The grove extends along the rocky declivity, about four hundred yards in length, and is less than one hundred in the widest part. If in other spots, led by the evidence of the pillar'd circle, the lustral basin, or the oracular logan, we are carried back in imagination, to the age and ceremonial of a mysterious and sanguinary ritual, — surely this antient oaken grove, whose age outdatcs tradition and history, and which is such an anomaly in physiology, as to baffle scientific calcu- lation, might have itself been a favourite resort of the hierophants of Druidism, and might have sheltered the last of the Danmonian priesthood, who, in these secluded wilds of the west, might have found an asylum from the vengeance of the exasperated Roman. But it is not a little curious that among the aboriginal relics, in the immediate neighbourhood, no sacred circle, no avenue, no logan, is to be observed. Nor among all the parasitical plants which crowd the branches of these venerable oaks, — the most sacred tree of Druidism, — has the far-famed misletoe ever been discovered.* Yet would this consideration not be sufficient to detract from the claims of Wistman to be regarded as the remnant of a Druidical grove, especially since we learn, from an antient contemporary writer, f that the misletoe, even then, was scarce, and seldom to be met with, on the oak in particular. Hence, when found, they gather it with great devotion and many ceremonies. But the same author informs us that whatever the Druids found growing on the oak, parasitically, whether misletoe or other plants, they esteemed as a Divine gift, and as a token that their god had made that tree his peculiar choice. If then the Wistman oaks were draperied with the same exoteric garniture as at present, they must have been regarded by the Druids * Although the misletoe is plentifully produced on the apple tree in the neighbouring county of Somerset, it is remarkable that, in Devonshire, it is scarcely known as an indigenous plant. After numerous inquiries, I have never been able to discover more ***n one specimen of the misletoe growing in Devon or Cornwall. On an apple tree, in tta orchard at Higher Fordton, Grediton, in an estate belonging to James Wentworth Boiler, Esq., of Downes, there is at this time a thriving specimen of this interesting plant, the greatest botanical curiosity probably in the county. t Pliht, Nat. Hist., lib. xvi. 14. 178 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. with peculiar veneration. Nor can "imagination body forth" a place more congenial to the sights and sounds of dark and blood- stained rites, than this dreary, narrow, rock-strewn glen of the Dart We can imagine the appointed Druid, on the natural watch-tower afforded by the neighbouring tor, carefully marking the moment when the moon has completed the sixth day of her age, — when haply a misletoe has been found, in the grove below; — we follow him to the tree, and there see him clothed in his robe of pure white; and bearing the golden hook, reverently ascend the oak and cut the plant, which is received by the assistant priests below with every demonstration of gladness and awe. Wistman's Wood is just such a place as the holy prophet of the Most High describes, as one of the scenes of the idolatrous orgies of the Israelites. Here are the oaks, here " the valleys under the clifts of the rocks " where they sacrificed their children, — here " the smooth stones of the stream among which was their portion." In this spot too, might the Roman bard have found his original of the grove, which he depicts as consecrated to the mystic ceremonies of Druidism. " Lucas erat longo nunquam violatos ab «vo, Obscurum cingens conncxis aera ramis, Et gelidas alte summotis solibus umbras. Hunc non ruricoto Panes, nemorumque potentes Silvani Nymphae que tenent, sed barbara ritu Sacra Deum, structrc sacris feralibus arte Omnis ct humanls lustrata cruoribus arbos." * LUCAN. The explorer of Wistman's Wood, should tread its rocky labyrinth with some caution in summer, lest he should encounter * " Not far away, for ages past, had stood An old unviolated sacred wood ; whose gloomy boughs, thick interwoven, made A chilly, cheerless, everlasting shade ; There, not the rustic gods nor satyrs sport, Nor Fauns and Sy Ivans with the Nymphs retort; But barbarous priests some dreadful Power adore. And lustrate every tree with human gore." Rows. Nicolas Rowe, the translator of Lucan, is alleged by some, (as observed bv Mrs. Bray, Tamar and Tavp, vol. L, p. 98,) to have been born at Lamerton, near Tavistock, of which parish his father was vicar. His version of this classic description of a Druidksi grove, (as that of a Devonshire poet,) may be read with additional interest somewhat unpleasant testimony to the accuracy of the resemblance, in another particular noticed by the bard of the Pharsalia : — Soboraqtie amplexos circuraflu xisse dracones. Like many other sheltered glens, strewn with moors to tic, Wistman's Wood has an evil reputation among the country people, as abounding with noxious reptiles. It was accordingly represented to Mrs. Bray, by a neighbouring moor-farmer, in the genuine vernacular, as " j irlust old place sure enough, and as full of adders as can be." The notion of rendering these reptiles harmless, by charming them with an ashen wand, which still obtains among our peasantry, is pronounced, by this lady, as " nothing less than a vestige of the customs of Druid antiquity." We have already noticed the evident connexion between Druidism and the Ophite rites, as traced in the Dracontia, or serpent-temples, and in other particulars, and have seen that these were probably corruptions of the purer forms of Arkite worship. The celebrated anyuinum, or serpent's egg, may also be mentioned, as bearing upon the subject, since it is alleged by Davies, to have reference to Arkite mysteries. The rock-strewn glen, — the dwarfish, mysterious looking grove, its growth as if suddenly paralyzed by some malignant spell, — the dark river flowing beneath, — the hut-circles, pillars, and cairns on the neighbouring heights, — all forcibly lead to the conclusion that we are wandering amidst scenes congenial to the spirit of Druiclism, and polluted of old by the sanguinary rites of that mystic and terrible superstition. From Wistman's Wood, we return by a path along the eastern bank of the Dart, to the inn at Two Bridges, and there close our excursion through the central parts of the Forest On setting out for our next excursion northwards, we shall pass the little river Cowsic at its confluence with the Dart, immediately below Bairdown Hill, a long ridge of high ground with a series of tors, along the summit, known by the names of Bairdown Tor, Lidford and Devil Tor. Thero is nothing of particular mark or in these tors, nor on the neighbouring common, except Man, a rude granite obelisk, (similar to those already ,) eleven feet in height and eight feet in girth. In this nilar designation of the rock-pillar, we shall doubtless discover the original term Macn, and shall find in Bairdown Man another 180 PERAMBULATION OP DARTMOOR. specimen of the Maen hir, or Long Upright Stone* Bairdown Hill is peninsulated by the Dart on the east, and by the Cowsic on the west. On the latter stream, near the confluence, we shall observe the thriving plantations referred to by Dr. Moore, (Appendix, No. iL, p. 212,) in proof of the agricultural capabilities of the more sheltered parts of the moorlands. To the improvements at Bairdown Farm, commenced by the late Mr. Bray, may be attributed much that has been done to reclaim portions of the moor ; but it must be admitted that the sheltered dell, on the western side of the down, presented facilities which are not to be met with in less favoured situations. The farm is now in the possession of Mr. Frean, of Plymouth, who, as it has been already remarked, is successfully engaged in agricultural improvements in this part of the Forest. But the tourist will find "metal more attractive" in tracing the course of the stream, as it foams along amidst the huge blocks of granite with which its channel is studded, until he comes to the antaent bridge, by which it is crossed, in the dell below Bairdown Farm. Our best acknowledgments are due to the provident care of some lover of antiquity, (I presume the Rev. E. H. Bray,) for the effectual manner in which it has been preserved from injury, by iron braces which hold together the granite blocks. It is in excellent preser- vation, and, though on a smaller scale than some others, is not the less interesting as a specimen of British architecture. It consists of five openings ; it is thirty-seven feet in length, and somewhat less than four feet in average breadth. The roadway is scarcely three feet and a half from the water, under ordinary circumstances. "We leave the vale of the Cowsic, and proceed over the common westward to a clam, or single-stone bridge, thrown over the Blacka- brook, a stream which rises below Great Mistor, and falls into the "West Dart between Two Bridges and Prince Hall. At a short dis- tance from this primitive bridge, in a rushy swamp, is a structure of mediaeval antiquity, which has excited some speculation, and no little discussion, as to the date which should be assigned for its erection. This is Fice's Well, thus commemorated by the writer in Blackwood's Magazine, quoted above, (Preface, p. ii.) "What a strange little edifice ! Interior and sides of granite. Inscription, (which must be a lie,) 1168." The inscription which has given rise to the suppo- sition that the well was erected in the twelfth century, is on the front F1CE S WELL. 181 edge of the cover-stone ; but whilst an unpractised observer might have misread the second figure of tiie date for 1, it is difficult to imagine how any one who had been conversant with similar inscrip- tions could have been so misled. The letters are in low relief, inscribed in a kind of panel on the face of the stone above the well, and there is no doubt that the true date is 1568. The cover -stone is three feet nine by three feet three, the opening about two feet square, and the well scarcely three feet in depth. In 1827, wc read the date without difficulty as 1568, and it is scarcely probable that the correspondent of Blackwood, who wrote in 1839, would have found it so much obliterated, in the course of Six years, as to have mistaken 5 for 1, unless he had been previously led to suppose that the date was 1168. Mr. Bray, who examined it in 1831, justly remarks that it would appear more or less distinct, according as it might happen to be viewed in full sunshine or in shadow. This author assigns good reasons for supposing that the true designation is Fitze's and not Fice's Well. " I think it most likely that Fitze's Well was constructed by John Fitz, the old lawyer and astrologer of Fitzford, whose traffic with the stars, in foretelling of his only son, is still the theme of tradition." In addition to the evidence adduced by Mr. Bray, from old records, in con- firmation of this conjecture, Mrs. Bray records the following legend of the origin of Fice's Well, which is too interesting to be omitted. " John Fitz the astrologer and his lady, were once pixy-led, whilst riding on Dartmoor. After long wandering in the vain effort to find the right path, they felt so fatigued and thirsty, that it was with extreme delight they discovered a spring of water, whose powers seemed to be miraculous; for no sooner had they satisfied ;;•!. than they were enabled to find their way through the moor towards home, without the least difficulty. In gratitude for this deliverance, and the benefit they had received from the water, old John Filz caused the stone memorial in question, bearing the date of ihc year, to be placed over the spring, for the advantage of all pixy-fftl travellers. It is still considered to possess many healing >ntnf-." Following the course of the Blackabrook downwards, wc shall observe just below the Plymouth road, near Prince Town, a Cyclo- pean bridge of two openings, of smaller dimensions, but of similar 182 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. character to those already described. Should the tourist be anxious to examine the agricultural improTements made by the late Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, at Tor Royal/ a short walk will bring him there. He will also have an opportunity of visiting the celebrated War Prison, at Prince Town, (described in Appendix, No. vii.,) as well as Messrs. Johnson's extensive granite quarries at Fogginton. But the antiquary, following the Tavistock road to Bendlestone, will proceed along the highway, to examine the large and interesting group of aboriginal relics near Merivale Bridge, at the spot popularly known in the neighbourhood, as the Plague Market. Here it is traditionally reported, during a pestilence which prevailed at Tavistock, (sup- posed by Mr. Bray to have been in 1625, when the burials in the parish register amounted to 522,) provisions were brought for sale from the neighbouring country, at a safe distance from the infected precincts of the town. But to whatever purpose these venerable monuments might have been applied, there can be no doubt that, originally, they were erected by the earliest inhabitants of our island, and that here will be found the remains of one of the most important aboriginal settle- ments in the west. At our visit, in 1827, we found, in addition to the avenues, or parallelithons, and sacred circles, specimens of almost all the other monuments of aboriginal antiquity. The town, or vil- lage, is within half-a-mile of the river Walkham, which is crossed by Merivale Bridge in the valley below. Its site is on the slope of the common, inclining to the south-west, and the ground over which the circular foundations of houses are scattered, is of considerable extent But among all other relics, the parallelithons will immediately . strike the observer as the characteristic feature of the place. By the learned explorer of Carnac, they would be described as undoubted parts of a Dracontium, or serpent-temple, but whether their presumed Ophite character be admitted or not, there can be little doubt that they were constructed by our Pagan forefathers, for the purposes of religious worship. Their direction is towards the river, and they * Tor Royal was entirely formed by him in 1798, with its adjoining fields, planta- tions, and garden, to which there was no road when he undertook the work, but he toon made one, as well aa another for uniting the Plymouth with the Tavistock road. In short, to Sir Thomas all the modern improvements on Dartmoor must be referred.— Notes to Carrimotom's Dartmoor. MISTOR BRITISH TOWN. 183 mediate connexion with sacxcd circles ; tlie northern ter- ing in one circle, and the southern having another at mid- length. It will also be observed that they are in apparent relative connexion with a large sacred circle and lofty maen on the south. From these circumstances, the avenues will afford the best central station for describing the position of the several objects which will engage the attention of the antiquary. These avenues run east and west parallel to each other, one bandied and five feet apart; the longest, eleven hundred and forty- ihree feet, the other nearly eight hundred. The former has the circle in the centre, and at either extremity a stone of larger dimen- sions than those in the lines. The western half of this parallelithon is divided at mid-length by a higher stone, and ends with two stones which have been thrown down. About twenty-four yards from the south avenue is a small dilapidated cairn ; and one hundred yards south, a circle sixty-seven feet in diameter, consisting of ten stones. Near this is a fine specimen of the maen, or rock-pillar, described ■bore, (p. 40,) and near the avenues, the ruins of a prostrate crom- lech. The quoit, ten feet six by five feet four, has been dislodged from its three supporters. N.E. by N". of the avenues is a Cyclopean inclosure, or pound, differing essentially from Grimspound and others, in the construction of the wall ; this consisting chiefly, though not entirely, of upright stones, while in many other examples they are rudely piled together. Advantage has been taken of the natural position of some huge blocks in forming this singular fence, the form of which approaches, though imperfectly, to a circle, the diameter of which is one hundred and seventy-five feet. At the upper, or east end, is a vast block, large enough to form one of the sides of an interior rectangular inclosure; having remains of walls at right angles, suggesting the idea of a resemblance to the adytum within the Druidical circle near Keswick. Thirty feet from this inclosure, a large quoit-like stone, sixteen feet by nine feet eight, and three others, have all the appearance of supporters, with their impost, — the ruins probably of a second cromlech of very large dimensions. There are hut-circles within and immediately without the inclosure, which are of a large size, as well as many others throughout the town. The ruins extend about a mile along the side of the hill, from the highest point of which Great Mistor majestically 184 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. overlooks the whole, and may therefore with perfect propriety claim the right of giving name to this curious and interesting monument of the aboriginal occupancy of our island, as the Mistor town, or village, since the perambulators also describe this part of the Forest as Mistor moor. As we have again reached the line of perambulation, let us follow its direction as it passes from North Hcssary Tor to Mistor Pan.* The designation, thus employed by the perambulators, was evidently adopted by them from popular usage. Hence it is clear that the singularly perfect rock-basin on the summit of Mistor, has existed in its present state for centuries, and has been regarded as the characteristic feature of the tor, from time immemorial. It can therefore scarcely be deemed a forced inference, if (taking into account the information we possess with regard to Druidical rites, and the existence of other relics, which are known to belong to the period of Druidism,) we conclude that Mistor Fan is an artificial excavation of high antiquity, and can scarcely be attributed to the action of the elements, and the disintegration of the granite block, in this particular part. The basin is in a remarkably perfect state, three feet in diameter, eight inches deep, and with its perpendicular sides and flat bottom, suggesting to the moormen the idea of one of their dairy milk-pans, hewn out of the massive rock. In our ascent to the top of Great Mistor, we shall pass an antient stream-work on the side of the hill of considerable extent. We shall also observe Little Mistor, in our progress, which may be noticed for its presenting a rude resemblance to a vase of colossal magni- tude. On reaching Mistor Pan we shall command a magnificent prospect along the western border; but among the many interesting objects which open to the view, Vixen Tor and the vale of the Walkham immediately below, will not fail to arrest the attention. Looking down the woodland gorge, between Walkhampton and Sampford Spiney, the eye at length rests upon that part of the noble estuary of the Tamar above Saltash, where it expands into a broad lake at the confluence of the Tavy with its waters, near Beer Ferrers. To the voyager up the Tamar, when he arrives abreast of Warleigh * From thence linyallie to another Histworthie, and so from thence Unyallie through the midst of Mistor moore, to a rock called Mistorpann. Perambulation 1606L ■ i hi: uai.mum. 185 us Maria tow, Mister rises with all the grandeur of » genuine mountain in the purple distance, nor could a more favourable point of view perhaps lie chosen, for giving a stranger a just impres- sion of the elevation of our Dartmoor hills * than this part of the Tamar estuary, or the Cornish bank of the river on the north pre- cincts of the town of Saltasli. Leaving the summit of Mistor, we shall reach the banks of the W;dkham immediately below, by a steep descent, and finding our way across its rocky channel, shall scale the opposite ridge, on which, in a line parallel to the course of the river, rise a series of conspicuous and remarkable tors. The northernmost of these is Rolls Tor, or Roose Tor, next to which is Great Stapletor ; Middle Stapletor is farther south, and Little Stapletor is on the declivity near an antient *tieam-work of large extent. Seen from Roborough Down, and some other points southward, these tors have a strong resemblance to castellated ruins, and, on a nearer examination, will be found to present many features of much interest. Some of the component masses are granite slabs bearing the appearance of a cromlech quoit, or impost. Other blocks appear to be so marvellously poised, as to be ready to be toppled down by the impulse of the first upland Morm ; and one has been thought to be a tolmen. f On the N.W. pile of Great Stapletor is a rock-baain, sixteen inches in diameter, and on Little Stapletor, near the edge of the highest and largest block is another, two feet in diameter. Continuing our southward course, we shall cross the road from ■ ■ k to Two Bridges, leaving Mcrivalc Bridge in the valley on the left. From hence we shall observe Vixen Tor, not forming the crest of an eminence ns is more frequently the case, but rising majes- tically from the common, near the steep banks of the Walkham, about a mile below Merivale Bridge. On a nearer approach, we shall remark the rpsemblance which it bears to the Egyptian sphvnx, when beheld from a particular point of view, ['routing the river the huge masses of which the tor is composed are piled up tier after tier, in a rude but noble facade, divided into three compartments by perpendicular * Height of Mi^tur. 1 7 'ii.) feet, 05 deduced l>j Mr. Mc. Lauchlan from data obtained during ihe TrigonometriunJ Survey. Da n Bkche. f The Be* E. H. limy iinbeaitalinglji protrounces it to be a tolmen, •' On the same poop of rocka is ■ lingular Draidical monument, or lolmcti, for mch I am convinced it is." Timor and Topy. »ol. L, p. 'IVl , through which an ascent to the summit can he effected, ■whereon appearances of rock-basins will be observed. The river- front faces directly south, and this lofty rock is traditionally reported to have been reported to in past times for astronomical purposes. Vixen Tor, whether considered in itself, or with reference to the striking scenery of which it forms the central object, is one of the most interesting in the moorland district. The vale of the Walkham presents a long-drawn mountain defile, stretching away to the south. On the acclivity beyond Merivale Bridge eastward, is the aboriginal town, above described, where the admirer of Scott's truthful pictures of natural scenery may trace the main features of the Black Dwarfs forlorn retreat on Mucklestane Moor. There is " the huge column of unhewn granite raising its massy head on a knoll near the centre of the heath, and the ground strewed, or rather encumbered, with many large fragments of stone of the same consistence with the column, which, as they lay scattered over the waste, were popularly called the Gray Geese of Mucklestane Moor." And down the stream southward, near Ward Bridge and Huckworthy Bridge, the river, rock, and wood scenery is of the most fascinating description. Should the tourist recross the Walkham, and follow the windings of the Plymouth and Dartmoor railway, as it sweeps round the oppo- site hill by King Tor and Crip Tor, he will be abundantly repaid by a succession of views of wide extent and varied interest. Near the point where the railway crosses the Plymouth and Prince Town road, he will be struck with the peculiarly fine grouping of the tors, as he looks towards the N.E. with the lofty steeple of Walkhampton rising conspicuously from the acclivity in the foreground. Returning by Walkhampton, he will leave the steep lane leading to the church, und crossing a fine old moorstone stile, will find a pathway along the fields, which commands the vale of the Walkham at some of the most picturesque points. Far inferior as the accompanying mountain elevations confessedly are, yet, in all other respects, the scenery of this lovely glen may dispute the palm with the most celebrated spots of North Wales or the Lakelands. This conviction will be deepened by every step we take in the direction of Ward Bridge, by width we shall cross the river, and having made a detour N.E. over the common, to notice the rude time-worn cross called Beckamoor Cross, near a rivulet on the plain, shall mount the lull half-a-niile north of 187 Sampford Spiney church, to visit Pewtor Bock, a frontier eminence and one of the most interesting of all the moorland tors. Pewtor is traditionally regarded as a Druidical court of judi- cature, probably from the peculiar conformation of the granite masses whereof it is composed. Raised by the hand of nature, these masses form two divisions ; that on the east consists of four piles of rock, standing at the four cardinal points, like huge bastions, con- nected on the eastern and western aides by a rude breastwork or curtain, but open to the north and south. On the north-west pile is a series of rock-basins, irregularly disposed over the surface of the granite mass. One on its northern margin is complete, and is fur- nished with a lip, or spout, calculated to pour the water over the edge. This basin communicates with a second, much broken, which has a like communication with the third, of a more oval figure, and is placed cast of the second, on the verge of the rock. Near the western edge of the same mass, but detached from the others, is a fourth basin, two feet in diameter and eleven inches deep. Standing in the area of this hypaithral judgment-court, and looking southward, the natural piles of mimic masonry form the frame of a landscape of great extent and beauty, comprehending the bold uplands of Boborough, the confluence of the Tavy and Tamar, and the Cornish hills on the weBt. From hence a pleasant walk of two miles and a half over Whitchurch Down, will bring ua to Tavistock, where we ■hall close our excursion at the Bedford Hotel, and the traveller must be fastidious indeed, who would complain of the accommodation he will find, at one of the beat inns, in one of the most interesting country towns, in the west of England. Nor will the explorer of Dartmoor forget that Tavietock is one of the stannary towns, and that perhaps on the very spot where he now "takes his ease in his inn," the earliest printed copy of the stan- nary laws was struck off, a printing press having been established in Tavistock Abbey soon after the introduction of the art of printing into England. The inn is built within the antient precincts of the monastery, nor will the antiquary depart on his next moorland excur- sion without examining the existing remains of the largest and most magnificent abbey in Devonshire. The noble gate-house and adjacent buildings on the north-east, — " the ivied abbey wall along the very brink of the Tavy, with rampart, battlement, and parapets, — the still- 188 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. house tower, and the turret known as Betsy Grimbal's tower, within the vicarage premises, are among the most interesting vestiges of the antient grandeur of this once famous monastery, which continued to advance in wealth and dignity until its abbots took their place among the mitred peers of the realm. The spacious church, with its lofty steeple, under which will be observed the unusual feature of an open arched passage, will also attract the traveller's attention, who will not fail to commend the manner in which the interior has been lately renovated. The old ungainly pews have all been re- moved and have been replaced by oak seats of appropriate character. At the western extremity of the town, just above the antient mansion of Fitzford, the tourist will obtain a most pleasing view of Tavistock and its immediate neighbourhood. The town, with the church and abbey buildings, and some felicitously grouped trees, form conspicuous objects in front ; on the right, the Tavy flows vigorously down the vale, while a circling range of hills and tors form a noble background. As a central point for visiting the various objects of picturesque and antiquarian interest with which this part of Devon- shire abounds, Tavistock cannot be surpassed. Many of the anti- quities of Dartmoor in the Western Quarter, the moorland villages of Marytavy and Fetertavy, the glens of the Walkham, Dedham Bridge, Buckland Abbey, the picturesque hamlet of Milton, Maristow on the Tavy, Morwell Grange, Morwell Bocks, Calstock church, the Weir Head, Newbridge and Endsleigh on the Tamar, Brentor church, Lydford Bridge, waterfalls and castle, are all within a circle of five or six miles radius. As a more detailed description of this interesting town and neighbourhood would be incompatible with our plan, so might it be deemed supererogatory, if not presumptuous, by those who are aware how elaborately the subject has been treated by Mrs. Bray, the talented authoress of the Letters to the Laureate, and of many popular tales founded on the legendary lore, and descriptive of the romantic scenery of the west. In the former work are embodied many valuable contributions on antiquarian subjects by the Rev. £. A. Bray, a gentleman who also as vicar of the parish, has displayed a laudable zeal for the preservation of the antiquities of his native town. Tavistock and the vicinity arc replete with deeply-interesting l\\\ 18T04 K. 18i) associations of the olden time, and of poetic lore. Mason has placed the scene of his Elfrida at Harewood,* on the hanks of the Tamar, but the accuracy of his poetic venue has been questioned in the Letters to Southey, where it is contended that Prince is correct in stating that jElhelwold was killed at Wilverley (since Warlwood) in Dartmoor, and that therefore the memorable hunt took place in that Forest, where there is still a place called Willsworthy not far from Tavistock. But another fair authoress, to whom the " green lawns and mantling woods and winding river " of Harewood on the Tamar, are endeared as the home of her youth, thus modestly advances its Yet haplv jiiil^'il tln-v rightly, who here placed la this remote peninsular retreat, The scene of Edgar's hiililen loves, wli«ro dwelt The beauteous yet unlovely dame, whose false Aspiring heart betray'd to death her lord. But admonished by her timely strain, let us turn from Earl Orgar and the gigantic Ordulph — from the ambitious Elfrida and the ill- starr'd jEthelwold, to our main object, for, as she aptly proceeds, Yonder ridge Of Dartmoor's pinnacles afar descried And towering high into the azure air i!roi]l- ill,.' mind Irniii MTtii'> of human strife And gnilt and warfare, and each [invly thought Creeping iloag the littleness of life, To rove upon the vast and lwundless range Of the Eternal Hills. Scenes and Stetehet in Cornwall. Tavistock, 1844. Passing forth from the town, along the pleasant causeway, between the embattled abbey-wall and the river, and leaving Guile Bridge, already commemorated, on the right, we shall depart from the town eastward, by the new Okehampton road, through the valley of the Tavy. In a neighbouring vale, which lyes extended to the north 01 Tiivv's streams, • Tab seal of Sir W. S. Trelawney. Lord Lieutenant of Cornwall. A lovely apol. ever connected in my o«n miuil, with pleasing nssocinLiuns and gratefully remembered kinilntMes.— S. B. I'KKAMUULATION OF DARTMOOR. Two high-LirowM rocks on qjrther ride I* As wilh iui arch to close the valley in, wo shall be interested in tracing the resemblance to the original sketch by Browne, a Devonshire poet, who, according to Prince, wa« born at Tavistock, A.D. 1590. " The swains, By the tradition from tlieir sires JcrtvVl, CallM it sweet Ina's coombe." The description occurs in hie principal work, Britannia's Paste where the Wallabrook, a neighbouring tributary of the Tavy, is ■ celebrated in Arcadian allegories, characteristic of the pedi euphuism of the age. Browne, is better known by his caustic description of Lydford, and its jurisprudence, a copy of which, as graphically illustrating the manners and sentiments of our Devonshire ancestors, is inserted at the close of the work. But we hasten onwards to the more immediate objects of our excursion, with the well-wooded grounds of Mount Tavy, bounded by the river, on our right. Crossing the stream at Harford Bridge, we shall make for Cocks Tor, a lofty frontier hill of trap-rock, where we shall notice several hut-circles. A rugged road at its foot, will lead us to Petertavy, which with its simple rustic church below the fine bold brow of Smearridge, its picturesque mill, mountain torrent and brawling cascades, will amply repay a visit. From hence, by an upland road through Cudliptown, with the Tavy murmuring along the hollow below, and White Tor on the right, we shall proceed to Stannaton Down, a hill strewed with granite masses and marked by a cairn. Turning south we shall traverse, not without difficulty, a tract of boggy land to Lints Tor, near the source of the Walkham, where are some imperfectly -defined traces of a trackway. Here, I presume, we again meet the Forest boundary, which we last marked at Mistor Pan, from thence it crosses the Walkham at the Hanging Rock, to Dcadlake Head, which the Perambulators " think to be the next bound, called in the old records Mewborough." But whatever difficulty there may be, in identifying the last-named bound-place, we shall have no hesitation in fixing the next, (described in the FTTKTOK. Perambulation as Lintsburrow,) at South Lints Tor, to which the boundary-line next advances. Leaving Lints Tor, and the Forest bounds, we proceed north- wards to Furtor, in the North Quarter. We shall find, that by a gradual ascent from the Tavy, we have here attained one of the loftiest points on the moor, the approximate height of Furtor, above the sea-level, being given as no less than 2000 feet. We have also penetrated to the most secluded and inaccessible parts of our western desert. Vast tracts of morass, bog, and heath, stretch away on every side. Besides Furtor, few tors appear to break " the deep- felt monotony " of the dreary wilds around. Not a sheep-path or peat-stack gives token of the presence of man or beast ; and the heath-fowl which you may occasionally spring from the heather, only prove that this, one of their last retreats, is seldom invaded by the sportsman. But haply twenty centuries ago, this solitary spot would seem to have been occupied by man. Perhaps a Druid recluse (if such there were) here found a place of studious retirement and meditation, where, at least, he would have enjoyed ample oppor- tunities for pursuing one of the favourite sciences of his order, in the wide expanse of the starry heavens, commanded from the brow of Furtor.' The foundation of the structure is similar to that of the hut-circles in other parts, but in form it is elliptical, about fifty -feet in circumference. This aboriginal dwelling stands alone on the brink of one of the tributaries of the Tavy. No vestige of any other anticnt remains is near, except a cromlech in ruins, near the head of the river, about a furlong from its western bank. Although surrounded by many scattered blocks of granite, there can be little doubt as to the original intention of these four remarkable stones, which an expe- rienced observer will readily distinguish from the surrounding masses lying in their natural position. The quoit, or impost, is about the ordinary dimensions, thirteen feet by five, and has fallen with its longest side in the ground. It is retained in a slanting position by the three original supporters, which appear to have yielded to the pressure of the superincumbent mass. We now follow the stream of the Tavy downwards to Wutern 192 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Oak and Western Redlake, a natural boundary, specified in the Perambulation, to which the line comes from lints Tor. Between these two latter points, according to the Perambulators, the Western and Northern quarters meet. Near the same point, a considerable stream from Amicombe Hill, called Rattlebrook, falls into the Tavy, and forms the Forest boundary northward for some distance, to its head. Still following the course of the Tavy, downwards, we shall soon reach Tavy Cleave, a magnificent range of castellated tors with which Nature appears to have fortified this fine peninsular hill, while the rapid stream sweeps round the headland, and forms an effective moat to the Titanic citadel above. These tors range in succession along the precipitous sides of a rock-strewn declivity. There are five principal piles, of which the third is the loftiest and most majestic ; and the whole cliff presents a remarkable resemblance to the dilapidated walls of a time-worn edifice. Even on a nearer approach, the illusion is kept up by the whortle, heaths, and other plants flourishing in the interstices, so that the aspect of this mimic castle, is novel and peculiar. Imagina- tion too, with little effort, may figure a natural outwork or barbican, in the lower pile, on the southern glacis, guarding the approach, and thus fortifying this inland promontory almost to the river's brink. The whole declivity being overspread with scattered masses of granite, stands in bold contrast with the grassy common on the opposite bank. The bed of the Tavy presents in general, the usual rocky characteristics of the Dartmoor rivers, but immediately below the cleave, the stream flows for some distance, over a solid granite floor. The view down the moorland glen, with far off glimpses of the culti- vated country beyond, will abundantly repay the tourist for scaling these natural ramparts, in his way to the neighbouring heights, along which we shall proceed westward to Gertor, or Great Tor, which crowns a bold eminence beetling over the Tavy, and is remarkable for its stratified character as contrasted with Tavy Cleave. If rock-basins are always to be ascribed to natural agencies, few tors would be more favourable to the production of such cavities, but none are to be found on any part of the rock. Between Tavy Cleave and Gertor we shall notice a hut-circle, with the jambs erect and the doorway facing the river. A trackline appears in connexion with this ruined dwelling. From hence, passing Great Tor, with the river for our BRENTOR. 193 guide, we shall wend our way to Marytavy, another rural church amidst scenery pleasingly varied by homely objects and the bolder of the moorland border, and returning to the turnpike road, shall close our excursion at Tavistock. Leaving the town by the old Okchampton road, for our next excursion, we shall soon discern high on an insulated hill before us, the church and steeple of Brentor,* four nides from Tavistock, on the northern verge of Heathfield Down. Unlike the Dartmoor tors, Brentor is a volcanic eminence rising abruptly from the surrounding country. The church which crowns the summit, is said to owe its erection to the pious gratitude of one of those " who occupy their in the great waters," in commemoration of his deliverance from the dangers of the stormy deep, and in fulfilment of a vow which in the time of peril he had made to build a church on the first land he- might discover, should he be permitted to reach the shore in safety. This is said to have been Brentor, and here accordingly the votive shrine was erected by the grateful merchant. There is however a popular legend current in the neighbourhood, which reports that the church was intended to have occupied a more convenient site, but the design was frustrated by Satanic devices. Of the existence of a church at Brentor there is a record so early as 1383, when it was known as St. Michael de Rupe; such lofty insulated sites, being considered as peculiarly appropriate to churches dedicated to St. Michael the archangel. The structure, built on the verge of the precipice, is small and low, but solid and durable, well calculated to brave the storms which eo frequently and fiercely beat upon this rock-founded house of prayer. The roof is open, the exterior battlemonted, and some traces of Early English architecture will be detected by the ceek'Mastical antiquary. Probably at the same period that the beacon flamed from its heights, Brentor was fortified, as there are some appearances of earthworks on the upper part of the hill. In surveying the varied panorama which this lofty eminence commands, the eye glancing southward over the grove- crowned heights of Mount Edgcumbe and Maker, will rest on the • Bern! is supposed by man)' anthers to ho derived from the German brenntn or Amy 1 o-£ axon byritan tu burn. No donbl in former times this conspicuous eminence mtS u it beacon, and ibal here, as on ninny other similar heigh", sigTi.tl-firci i kindled, as ■ ready mode of telegraphic i 194 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. expanse of the distant Channel, in search of the spot from whence land so anxiously sought for, could be descried by the storm-stricken mariner. Returning to the highway, we shall reach the banks of the Lyd at about three miles distance from Brentor, and find ourselves in the midst of scenery characteristic of the immediate neighbourhood, and in many respects peculiar to this part of the moorland border. Through a rural homestead we pass onward to the copse, and by a steep zigzag pedestrian path, descend to the celebrated Lydford Fall. The stream, a tributary to the Lyd, turns the neighbouring mill and falls over a slaty precipice, about one hundred and ten feet in height. Midway a ledge of rock opposes a temporary obstacle to the head- long stream, and enhances the picturesque effect. In one of the happiest of his out-door sketches, Carrington thus graphically paints the scene. At once, the stream, all light and music, springs From the bold bank. Yet not in one broad sheet It leaps the dark majestic cliff — a rock Divides it, and the bright and broken flood Impetuous descends in graceful curves To mingle with the foaming world below, While sparkling in the midday beam, a shower Of spray, for ever hovering, bathes the plants That love the mountain and the stream. To view this cascade with advantage, it should be visited in winter or after a summer storm, as the stream is inconsiderable at other times. But the accompanying features of the scene will never disappoint. The spot is one of calm woodland seclusion, at the confluence of four deep and narrow glens, so that when we stand at the foot of the waterfall, we are surrounded by " insuperable height of loftiest shade." Leaving this fascinating scene, we thread our adventurous way along a tangled and "bosky" defile, guided by the darkly-flowing Lyd ; but before we reach Lydford Bridge, shall find it necessary to climb the precipitous bank, as the channel there is formed in a narrow ravine, through which the river struggles with a fretful murmuring sound. The rocky sides of the chasm are con- LTDPOfiS BSISOE. 195 nee ted by the arch which is thrown over the river, at the height of sixty or seventy feet from the water. The similarity observed in "the rifted banks of Lyd" has given rise to the supposition, that the ground has been rent asunder by some terrible convulsion of nature ; whether this conjecture be well-founded or not, the scene at Lydford Bridge is one of great singularity and uncommon interest Unlike other rivers, which glide through open plains or sunny valleys, the Lyd forces its darkling way at the bottom of a deep rocky fissure. We have only to substitute the name of Lyd for Tees, and Scott's vivid description of the northern stream will apply with striking accuracy to our own. When/ Toes full niaay a fathom low Wears with his rage, ao common foe ; For pebbly batik, nor sand-bed here, Nor clay mound, checks his fierce career ; Coudenui'd to miao a channeU'd way O'er solid sheets of marble grey. The tourist who contents himself with the view from the parapet, without venturing to explore the ravine below, as well as above the bridge, will not duly appretiate the singular impressiveness of this romantic scene, the Devil's Bridge of Devon. An author/ unbiassed by local predilections, thus warmly but faithfully describes the scenery which greets the eye on the banks of the Lyd. " At a little distance below the arch, the fissure gradually spreads its rocky jaws ; the bottom opens and instead of the dark precipices which have hitherto overhung and obscured the struggling river, it now emerges into day, and rolls its murmuring current through a winding valley, confined within magnificent banks, darkened with woods, which swell into bold promontories or fall back into sweeping recesses till they are lost to the eye in the distance Thickly shaded by trees, which shoot out from the rent, the scene at Lydford Bridge is not so terrific as it would have been had a little more light been let in upon the abyss, just sufficient to produce a " darkness visible." As it is how- ever, the chasm cannot be regarded without shuddering, nor will the Walts through the Western Counties, 196 PERAMBULATION OF DABTUOOB. lord, stoutest heart meditate unappsJled upon the dreadful anecdotes nected with the spot."* Clambering along the bank above the bridge, and followinj course of the river upwards, about a mile, we shall reach Kate's where the Lyd, fresh from the neighbouring moor, bursting throi rocky fissure, and rushing down a steep descent, forms a cascade, some respects finer than the more celebrated Lydford watei We cross the stream, above the cascade, and through a lane on the opposite side shall soon reach the once important borough of Lydford, the principal vestiges of whose former greatness, will be found in keep of the antient castle, which rises conspicuously on the west of the present church- town. But Lydford appears to have been a place of importance even before the date of its castle. t " Yea doubtless," writes Kisdon, " in the Saxon heptarchy, it was a town of some note, that felt the furious rage of the merciless Danes," by whom it was plundered and burnt in the same expedition, when Tavistock Abbey was destroyed by these marauding invaders. The castle was built subsequently Conquest, and by a charter of Edward I. Lydford was appointed as the stannary prison, where alone all offenders against the stannary laws, were to be incarcerated. Here, accordingly, Strode, member of parliament for Plympton, an ancestor of George Strode, Esq. of Ncwnham Park, was imprisoned in 15J2, for his exertions in parlia- ment, in procuring an act to prevent injury to harbours by operations. For this be was brought before the Stannators at court at Crockern Tor, and having refused to pay a heavy according to their sentence, was confined in Lydford Cutis. T ■ A gentleman from the neighbourhood of K\etcr, ruined l,v . hate crossed the moor on horsebiuk to this place, where dismounting, madly i elf- destruction, he leupcd d.iwn the terrific chasm. In a deep pool maniac is also said to linve drowned himself. But the scene ia also ussociated incident to which the mind gladly turtti fn.m the contemplation of madnesa In our present excursion we have traversed the old highway leading IViin I'l' through Tavistock to Okehamplon. A benighted horseman, once tinielling Ih'i nmidst the din and fury of a moerland tempest, on approaching Lydford, found ai pressed briskly forward, that his horse made a sudden leap, for »hi account, as there was no apparent obslnelc in the way. In the nit i : explained when he heard with astonishment, (and it may he hoped, with also.) that the bridce having been swept away by the raging lonwit during, il night, had not his horse gallantly cleared the chusm at a bound, he must hat. perished in the yawning abyss, t For various interesting particular of the castle, borough, manor an Lydford, the reader is referred to the valuable historical document* at the n parlb- f mining lilt tidr avy fine. Tic i lyootl 1.1 lll'HKIi fASlLi;. 197 sufferings of this gentleman, and of otter victims of these arbitrary enactments, in such a " hainous, contagious and detestable place," as this dungeon was commonly reported to be, must have been great. Both the jurisprudence and the prison appear to have obtained an unenviable notoriety about this period. A proverb in Ray's Col- lection doubtless embodied the popular opinion, First bang and draw, Then hear the cause is Lvtltunl Uw, But Browne, our Tavistock poet, has described the castle and borough of Lydford, " so very exactly and facetely in running metre," as old Westcote phrases it, that I have inserted the poem in extenso, at the end of the Appendix. The expense incurred by Prince Charles, as Duke of Cornwall, in repairing the castle, appears to have done little to retard the ruin, to which it seems to have been doome'd in Browne's time. A sur- vey of the borough of Lydford, gives an interesting but lamentable account of its dilapidated state in 1650." The castle, on the north and west sides, is defended by a deep hollow with precipitous banks, winding down to the glen of the Lyd. On the eastern side stands " the little church," commemorated by Browne, where there is a curious font, of such antique sinrplicity that it may have been coeval with the departed glories of Lydford, in Saxon times. Leaving Lydford, we shall direct our course to the mail road from Tavistock to Okehampton, where the tourist will find, at a wayside hostel, called the Dartmoor Inn, refreshment and sufficient accommodation for the night should he require it. Or, if disposed to pursue bis researches, he will cross the high road, and entering the commons at the back of the inn, will pass over Highdown eastward, : the Lyd once more, as it comes foaming down from Noddon. On the brink of the river, in the vale below Doctor, which bears almost due east, is the ruined foundation of an antient hut, peculiar both in form and construction. The form is rectangular, and the ■tones of which the basement is composed, instead of being fixed erect in the ground, edge to edge, are set face to face, and in the present ' See Appemiii — Hiitoricnl Docrnnenli. 198 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. ruined condition of the building, have declined from their original erect position. The hut is twenty-six feet long by thirteen wide, and stands apart from any other antient remains. Having crossed the Lyd, we shall mount the opposite hill and find ourselves in the midst of a fine group of tors. Between the Lyd and a tributary rivulet, Little Lints Tor, Armstor, Brator and Doetor form a range, in a line almost north and south. East of the rivulet, Links Tor, Dannagoat, Clatter, Sharp Tor and Hare Tor, form another series almost parallel to the former, and fortify the ridge which ends in the promontory at Tavy Cleave. At the foot of this ridge on the east, the Rattlebrook pursues its noisy way to the Tavy, and tracing its course upwards, we shall once more return to the Forest bounds, which proceed northwards from the head of Rattlebrook to Stengator, or Steincator, with the lofty dorsal ridge of Amicombe, high on the right. Passing over its northern extremity, we shall notice Brandscomb's Loaf, Shelstone Tor, and Sourton Tor, the latter rising above the little border church of that name. In our progress over this part of the moor, we shall meet with few antient monuments except some cairns on the surrounding heights. From Stengator the boundary goes straight to the vale of the West Ockment, which it crosses at Sandyford, called also in the Perambulation, Longaford. From hence the boundary proceeds in a straight line to a place called High Wilhays, or Willinghayes, and from thence to West Miltor, skirting the eastern flank of Yestor.* Here wc deviate from the line to scale its lofty peak, of which the approximate elevation has been calculated at two thousand and fifty feet, thus making it the highest point in the moor, and consequently in the whole south of England. From this Alpine height, the whole of the western and north-western districts of Devon, and a large extent of East Cornwall, lie mapped out before us. Towards the north-east, we look over the broad shoulder of Cosdon, to Raddon top and the higher points of country, between Crediton and Tiverton, whilst in the south-west, we descry the bold eminence of Hingston Down above Callington, and in front, stretch our gaze over Broadbury towards Holsworthy, Bude, and the Bristol Channel. * Probably East tor is more correct. The change of E or H into Y, is common in the Devonshire vernacular. Thus we have Yeaffield for Heathfield, and Yeffer for Heifer, and Yaffull for Handful. OKEHAMPTON CASTLE. m We shall find nothing worthy of special note at Miltor, and shall therefore leave the guidance of the Perambulators, to follow the course of a rivulet, which flowing down the hollow between Yestor tod Miltor, falls into the West Ocknicnt below Iflackdown. The whole of this part of the moor is remarkably destitute of antient remains, and eastward of Yestor, is of the same dreary monotonous character as the vicinity of Craumere Pool, to which it extends. aery on the West Ockment, in the deep glen at the foot of Black Tor, is grand and impressive, but will not long detain us from tracing the course of the river onwards, till it sweeps below the venerable ruins of Okehampton Castle, which occupy the summit and declivity of a rocky mound, about half-a-mile from the western entrance of the town, and full in view of the mail road to Cornwall. Above this eminence, thickly -clothed with foliage, the massy walls of the keep are seen to rise, with the most picturesque and happy effect. One lofty fragment appears ready to topple down headlong, at the first assault of the blustering tempests from the neighbouring wilds of Dartmoor ; but from the durable qualities of the cement, it has withstood the fury of the elements, and may, we trust, long remain to add interest and beauty to this charming scene. The antiquary, with his thoughts reverting to the lordly barons, who once here held sway, the Baldwins of the Norman a;ra, and the Courtenays of the Plantagenet times, will enter from the east and trace the remains of the castle-gate and the moat, the base court and the chapel, and reach the square keep on the western side by a pathway overhung with trees. Embosomed in foliage, — its moul- dering walls mantled with ivy, and surrounded by hills of varied form and hue. Okehampton Castle, in sunshine or in shower, "at morn or dewy eve," will be always an object of pleasing interest, but like Melrose and oilier celebrated rums, to see it in perfection the tourist should " visit it by the pale moonlight." To facilitate this object, we shall take up our quarters for the night at the White Hart, and before proceeding next morning on our final excursion, shall visit the most prominent objects of interest in tills antient borough, which we shall observe is situated on the very verge of our moorland district, nestling beneath the bold brow of the once celebrated park, on a pleasant little plain, watered by the twin of the Ockment, which peninsulate a large portion of its 200 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. site and unite their waters just below the town. The two bridges in the main street, the chantry chapel near the east bridge, with its embattled steeple, and some old gabled dwellings, will not fail to attract our attention, nor shall we grudge our walk to the church, which occupies a commanding situation on the hill that rises above the town on the western side. The parish church of Okehampton, a spacious structure with a lofty pinnacled tower, forms a conspicuous and pleasing object amidst the surrounding scenery. Tt was acci- dentally destroyed by fire a few years since, but has since been restored, in excellent taste and with due regard to the accommodation of the parishioners. Returning to the town, by a road in front of the vicarage lawn, we shall pass the entrance to Okelands, the modern mansion of Albany Savile, Esq., whose charming grounds are enlivened and adorned by the Ockment, which here flows onward to render its tribute to the Torridge, through picturesque banks overhung with luxuriant foliage. It has been conjectured by some writers that a Roman road ran in or near Okehampton, on its way from Exeter to Holsworthy and Stratton. One circumstance on which this supposi- tion has been grounded, is indisputable, the existence of a Roman camp on Broadbury Common,* about five miles N.N.W. of Oke- hampton in the line which such a road would probably have taken. But the traces of a fortified post, and of a Roman road which have been supposed to exist in the park near Halstock, cannot safely be adduced in evidence, as we shall find in our progress in that direc- tion. Proceeding southward from the town between the two Ock- ments, we shall enter the park by a rough road, which, as we ascend the hill, soon degenerates into a steep moor-track, chiefly used for bringing turf down from the commons and for driving cattle to pasture. A few veteran hollies of large growth, on the northern and western declivities, are almost the sole remains of the sylvan honours of the antient park of Okehampton, which was disafforested by Henry VIII. in 1589, at the same time that the castle was demolished. * It can scarcely be doubted that Bradbury is a specimen of a Roman summer camp, on an extensive tract of table-land, in the parish of North Lew. The form is an oblong square, two hundred and sixty-six feet by two hundred and thirty-six, and the vallum is not more than eighteen feet in the highest part, on the outer slope. The names of Chester Moor, Scobchester and Wickchester which occur in the immediate neighbour- hood, appear to indicate the presence of the Romans. OKEJIAMI'TON FAHK. 201 On tliis spot we are also reminded of the wild legend connected with Lady Howard's oak, still current in this part of Devonshire, and embodied in Mrs. Bray's tale of Khz of Fitzford ; nor is it improbable that there are some still whose superstitious fancy figures to them the doomed spectre of the once proud heiress, in her coach of bones, preceded by her skeleton hound, driving through the streets of Tavistock, at midnight, to bring a blade of grass from Okehampton I 'ark to the gateway of Fitzford. Nor shall we omit to notice Fitz's Welt, a spring on the ridge of the hill, which, according to the statement of the anonymous author of a concise but interesting account of the history and antiquities of Okehampton, " it was a custom till within a late period for young persons to visit on the morning of Easter day."* From this commanding spot we shall gain varied and favourable views of the town in the valley, the church on the eminence above, the mansion and groves of Okelands, the course of the Ockments, and the picturesque ruins of the castle. We shall here also appretiate the extent of the park, which stretching from the banks of the West Ockment in front of the castle, reaches to the channel of the eastern river, and forms the extreme northern fore- land of the great Dartmoor waste, which we have been perambulating. Passing over the brow of the hill to Blackdown, we reach the Forest boundary once more, beyond the verge of the park, at Rowtor, or Roughtor, to which eminence it comes in a direct line from West Miltor, the spot at which we left it in our last excursion. The line of perambulation then goes down the north-eastern declivity of Kowtor to Chapel Ford, at the confluence of the Blackaven water with the East Ockment, called by the Perambulators the ford which lieih in the east side of St. Michael's chapel of Holstock. Scarcely a vestige of this antient sanctuary now remains. " The storms of six centuries," says the author above cited, " have wrought their work in its destruction. Excepting the line of its foundations, now covered like the rest with green sward, and a path leading to the spot from Belstone, with its crossing place over the East Ockment, still called the Chapel Ford, there is little left to point where our forefathers worshipped." The course i r through this secluded glen presents a ' Account .if llie Bnronjr and Town of OkehnTitnLii 202 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. succession of scenes of romantic grandeur and wild magnificence. The river comes foaming down from the moors over a solid granite bed, in some places sufficiently steep to form a succession of waterfalls, and makes its way through a deep mountain gorge to Belstone Cleave, where it sweeps round the bold acclivity which forms the eastern boundary of the park. The hanging woods clothing the steep bank on the Okehampton side, are strikingly contrasted with the bare and rock-strewn declivity, which confronts them. Nor will the tourist reach this, the last definite bound-mark of the Forest, without con- fessing that in his whole perambulation he has seen no spot where the peculiar features of our moorland scenery are more felicitously com- bined than in this, the lonely glen of St. Michael of Halstock. Crossing the river we shall mount the steep ascent towards Belstone Tor, and within a quarter of a mile, on its western slope, we shall observe the circle called in the neighbourhood Nine Stones, but which in reality consists of seventeen stones, erect, the highest of which is not more than two feet and a half from the ground. We shall climb the hill, and having noticed the fine series of tors, which rise from the rock-strewn ridge, between the watercourses of the Ockment and the Taw, shall mark the direction of the line of perambulation, from the Chapel Ford in a line to Cosdon beacon, the Hoga* de Cosdown of the Perambulators. Having thus reached once more the point at which we com- menced our wanderings round the Forest bounds, on the banks of the Taw, we shall return towards Okehampton, and pass in our way the moorland village of Belstone with its simple church and low sturdy tower, built as if to resist the fiercest onslaught of the mountain tempest. We shall regain the vale of the East Ockment, in front of Belstone Cleave and the sombre gorge through which that stream pours down into the valley on the north side of the park ; and again crossing the stream, shall skirt the south bank in our return to Okehampton, and there terminate our last excursion. * I am now satisfied that we should look in vain for a place named Hoga, and that it is to be sought for in the hill or height of Cosdon itself; the word corresponding with Heag, ( Ang. Sax.) Hoog, (Dutch) Hoch, (German) &c. all implying altitude. THE APPENDIX. 2c APPENDIX, GEOLOGICAL VIEW OF DARTMOOR, By Edwabd Mdobb, m.d., f.l.s., late Secretary to Lbs Plymouth Institution. This mountain elevation ia one of the many masses of granite rock, which have risen up through the various shales, slates, and sand- stones, which constitute the geological surface of Devon and Cornwall. These latter had been, for a long period, considered as a peculiar formation, to which the undefined term of Grauwacke, or Transition Rocks, had been applied. Recent investigations, however, have led to the announcement, by Professor Sedgwick and Sir R. Murchison,* that the upper series, or culm measures, occupying principally the centre and north of Devon, belong to the carboniferous system ; and that the lower series, extending throughout nearly the whole of South Devon and Cornwall, is equivalent to the old red sandstone of geolo- gical nomenclature. This latter view, first conjectured by many with hesitation, among the earliest of whom was Mr. John Pridcaux, of Plymouth ;t and respecting whom, Mr. Lonsdale* says, "full credit must be given to him, for placing part of the limestones in the old red sandstones" — was, at length, (after the investigation of its fossils by Mr. Lonsdale,) boldly asserted by Messrs. Sedgwick and Mur- chison, and is now admitted by nearly elII geologists. To the entire system of rocks they have given the name of the " Devonian System," which occupies a position intermediate between the carboniferous and Silurian systems. This class of rocks, stretching from Dartmoor to iili Coast, consists, in succession, of 1st, an indurated meta- morphic group near the granite ; 2nd, a great complex slate group with bands of limestone ; 3rd, a coarse red arenaceous group ; 4th, a great schistose deposit, dipping south, but at length reversed as it approaches, 5th, a mass of mica and chlorite slate, extending from the Start to Bolt-tail. Rocks of a similar character, consisting of five groups, also form the lower scries on the North Coast of Devon ■ P/iil. Mag., vol. li... p. 241, and Geological Tram. vol. - t Tram, of t'tpHout/i Instilulion, p. 48. J Gtological Tram., vol beneath the culm measures* Between this region ' occurs the cultniferous scries, occupyiug a vast trough and dipping away on both sides, from the rocks with which it is in contact. It is divided into two groups; the lower consisting of dark carbonaceous shales, sandstones, micaceous and siliceous flagstones, and calcareous shale with subordinate beds of black limesfctne ; the upper thi sandstones are generally thin-bedded; the former often indurated and containing beds of anthracite and fossil plants, &c. the L like coarse coal grits, sometimes assuming a conglomerate form, and containing pyrites and iron-stone. AH these beds are much con- torted, the flexures being considered by geologists, generally, t to be dependent on the protrusion of the granite, which has turned up their edges around. Sir Henry Do la Beche observes, that the southern boundary of the carbonaceous system, runs along the edge of Dart- moor, from Tavistock to Holnc Chase, (forty-six miles,) and, through- out this distance, the protrusion of the granite, has thrown up the edges of the beds, in some places nearly vertical; J yet, allowing this to have a certain influence, he doubts whether it is not necessary to seek some greater geological cause for the numerous contortions of the preexisting rocks, (p. 188.) The slates are traversed by greenstones, and other trap-rocks, and a band of trappean ash commences at Dunterton, and runs by Milton Abbot and Endsleigh to Grendon; and Brent Tor itself is a mass of conglomerated cinders. Large masses of trap form the elevated lands of Horndon, White Tor, Smearridge, Cock's Tor, &c. These igneous rocks have flowed, says Sir. H. De la Beche, during the accumulation of the sedimentary deposits around them ; viz., the grits, shales, and slates of the carbonaceous scries. This subject is more recently illustrated by Sir H. Di I. in the 1st vol. ot Memoirs of the Geological Survey of Great Bi ' — where it is shown that extensive volcanic action lias oca throughout the whole scries of the paleozoic rocks, and the traj ash such as iB found at Brent Tor, he considers as the result ol aerial volcanos existing at that remote period of the earth's liistory, and prior to the eruption of the granite. The trap-bands skirting Dartmoor, seem as if thrust out of their original position by the protrusion of the granite — consequently this must have been of later formation than the trap ; thus the venerable tors, which have for so long a period excited our admiration, as belonging to the mass of primaeval foundations of the earth, are shown to be in geological sequence, posterior to the rocks, by which they are surrounded. The proofs of this arc also manifest in coast sections, and other situations, where the junction of the granite and slates is readily seen; veina of granite arc found penetrating the slates, and often large masses of the latter are insulated in them ; and from the very minute strings in which they often terminate, we may be led to Milie, istory, GEOLOGICAL VIEW OF DABTMOOB. 205 infer very considerable fluidity, on the part of the erupted masses in many parts of their confines. At St. Michael's Mount, Cape Cornwall, &c, these veins are seen, again penetrated by similar I io wing that, during consolidation, cracks occurred, into which granite was again forced, as is seen at the Land's End district, and not unfrequently on Dartmoor. These are distinguished from elrans, by their tortuous course. Other marks of the fluid state of the granite, also constantly occur, where the neighbouring rock is altered in character, by the heated mass. Thus many of the gneissic meks, in the vicinity of granite, are ascertained to be altered slate rocks ; and the successive beds of the culm measures, abutting upon "i . of Dartmoor, become changed in structure ; the siliceous bands are converted into quartz rock ; the shales, iuto Lydian stone, compact felspar, porphyry, &c* All of which point out its subsequent " The granite of Dartmoor," says De la Bcche, " is in compo- sition a mixture of quartz, felspar, and mica ; the latter, either black The felspar is most prevalent, and often occurs in large rendering the rock porphyriticf It frequently appears as if stratified in beds, depending on its tendency to become fissured or jointed, when near the slates ; or by weathering, as seen in the tors. On the coast, it often appears as piled, block upon block. Eivans are granite dykes of differently aggregated constituents. On the south of Dartmoor, an elvan traverses Roborough Down, — it is a porphyry, composed of a felspathic-quartzose base, with quartz crystals, and may be seen in the valley between Milton and Maristow. A granitic elvan also occurs near Jump. On the north of Dartmoor, two eivans run in the carbonaceous series ; one near South Zeal, the other through Lidbridge Ball to Hathcrlcigh : none have been noticed on tin.' east of the moor. In chemical composition, these granites and eivans arc nearly similar, subject to minor variations arising from the presence or absence of schorl and talc. A recent author J classifies granite according as its component minerals contain alkalies, or alkaline earths. Among the former he enumerates — First. Ternary granites, formed of quartz, felspar, and bin-axal mica, all of which are deficient in earthly ingredients/ but yield potash, soda, and lithia. Second. Among the latter we have granitoid rocks, into which hornblende enters as a component part, — hornblende contains none of the alkalies, but abounds in magnesia and lime. Also granites with talc, chlorite or steatite, (instead of mica,) which contain magnesia. Also granites with tourmaline or schorl, which contain nearly equal quantities of silica and alumina and oxide of iron, traces lei and MunoaiaoN. t Kin c Tur aud many ethers in the S.W. of the moor aro of this character. t Mr. Wallace. Geological Proceeding*, vol. iv., p. 193. ILK AMBULATION OP DARTMOOR. of the alkalies and earths, and some boracic acid. This schorlaccous variety, is the prevailing granitoid rock of Cornwall and Devon, and is mostly found on the borders, at the junction with the elates. Often, indeed, a gradual passage may be traced from the ternary granite to schorl rock ; the mica disappears first, though some- times all four minerals are found in nearly equal proportions, then the felspar fades, leaving the quartz and schorl only : the latter often occurs in radiating nests in the quartz. Sir. Wallace is of opinion that ternary granite is the lowest accessible rock of the earth's crust, and that it has been protruded at different times, either solid or fluid ; when the latter, it has been sometimes altered by a second fusion, and hy mixture with other rocks of a sedimentary character through which it has passed. The fine grained varieties are probably second fusions ; so when it becomes porphyritic, and also when elvans occur, (which are mostly eurite,) and when talcose, (protogine,) and again where schorl prevails ; in short, wherever mica is absent, and minerals abounding in magnesia and lime or metallic oxides are found, — or transitions into syenite, porphyry, basalt or volcanic rocks are noticed, — it indicates an origin of kter date than antient granite. Mr. Prideaux, speaking of the granites and other rocks in the vicinity, says the granites of Dartmoor " vary in hardness from such as defy the tool, to those which fall to pieces with a blow, or may be cut with a spade." Tin, copper, and manganese are found among them, but not lead. A coarse porphyry occurs on Morwcll Down, Grenofen, and Walkbampton ; the porphyritic elvan (Roborough Stone) is quarried at Harewood, west of the Tamar. The slates near granite, are micaceous at Meavy, Shaugh, Black- alder Tor, Heytor, &c. ; and talcose at Collard and Walkh.n A slate with quartz veins is topped by what is locally called Blackacrc, at Warleigh Tor. A compound of quartz, clays tone and schorl, forms the hills at Ringmoor Down, Wigford, Roborough and Crownhill Duwns. Trap, occurs abundantly, and may be seen at Cock's Tor, White Tor, Brazen Tor, &C. In his catalogue, Mr. Prideaux enumerates the following rocks.* ON DARTMOOR. 1. Common granite, tw the centre. 2. Finer do. Seytor ; metalliferous. 3. Red do. Irowhworthy Tor. 4. Compact do. Pen Beacon, 110RDKRING THE GRANITE. 1. Fine granite ; Gthtocl: 2. Hornblende rock, (" trap ;") Cock's Tor. 3. Schorl rock ; Roborough, &c. ; mctallifer TransacliQiu oj Plj/mouOi Jntlilulion, p. It. GEOLOGICAL VIEW OF J1ARTMOOK. 20 4, Quartz with claystone, (" capel ■") metalliferous. 5. Micaceous slate ; Bet/tor, Skaugk. . pawing; into clay-slate ; Cotehele. 7. Clay-ante; Harwell Down, &c. ; metalliferous. 8. Do. compact, ("killas;") borders of moor ; non-metalliferous. '.'. Etiblttxkd jasper ; Iny-bridgi; White Tbr, &c. 10. Granitoid porphyry ; Grmmfm, Wialkhampton. 11. Felspar rock; Fancy, Collar d, Blatchf or d. 12. Greenstone, (" trap ;") Rock, Egij liucMand, Estover, &c. IS. Finer ditto, (" hypersthenic ;") Cock's Tor near Granite. The influence of the atmosphere, causes diiferent effects on these rocks, according to the state of their component parts ; thus, weathering, as it is termed, sometimes extends to many feet deep. The tors and cairns are formed of mineral matter less inclined to decay than the parts around them. Schorlaccous parts make great resistance to decomposition ; the original divisional planes, which dispose granite into cuhoid, or pyramidal masses, permit atmo- Kberic action on their edges, which thus tends to produce a rounded rrn. This weathering, accounts for the numerous logan rocks to be found in all granite districts, and also for the basin-shaped hollows, often seen on their upper surfaces, which have been supposed to have been the work of the Druids, but they arc so numerous as to do »way with that supposition, though it is not improbable that they might have occasionally been made use of in the Druidical ceremonies. Thu felspar is the most prone to decompose. The traps resist it most ; hence they display many prominent points, as at Cock's Tor, Smear- ridge, White Tor, and the Botter Hock, near Hennock, and others ■round Bridford and Christow; when these decompose, the horn- blende suffers as much as the felspar, the protoxide of iron becomes i peroxide, aud the rocks have a rusty appearance. The decom- position of the felspar in the talcose variety of granite, yields " china- clay," which is now prepared artificially near Cornwood, (south of ihc moor,) in great quantities, and exported to the Potteries, from Plymouth to the extent of several thousand tons annually ; the H.'ihliin, Small Hanger, and Morley quarries, are now in full work. It Is found in a natural state at liovcy Traccy, having been probably vanhed down from Dartmoor into a lake, or estuary, (De la Beche,) *nd is exported at Teignmouth, in some years to the extent of 130 to 25,000 tons. The rocks of Dartmoor and its neighbourhood, are extensively roploycd for economical purposes. It is used as a building- stone, rith great profit, though much care is required in the selection, as "lies," so called from the faculty of working them, are he soonest to decay. Large quantities of good stone are exported o London from Heytor, and also from Foggin Tor, by the tram- ■oad to Plymouth. Two hundred tons arc now sent every fortnight o the new docks at Keyham Point. Much granite is also employed n the streets of Plymouth, for curbing, to which it is well-adapted ; 208 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. but for street paving, it is far inferior to the t lnat while the southern side of them has been raised forty or fifty feet, the north coast has reached an elevation of one hundred and twenty feet. Greater points of elevation are ' Transactions a/ Geological Society of Cumieall. PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. observable in Wales ; and, indeed, marks of the sea-level at different points, in all countries, are now considered as so many proofs of the bii wm j w rise of the laud.* This opinion has been extensively illustrated by Mr. Darwin, t from observations in South America. These effects are not less certain, whether we consider them arising from a continuous clevatory force,J aided, as some suppose, by the contractions of a cooling surface, or from, successive intrusions of igneous matter. Facts arc also now sufficiently accumulated to war- rant the conclusion, that volcanic agency has been extensively in operation in the neighbourhood of Dartmoor, during the deposition of the different strata of which the district is composed ; and in reference to similar evidence respecting the Mai vein Hills, Sir. R. Murchison says, (p. 78,) "Such facts are, it seems to me, miniature counterparts of the upraising, at successive periods, of mountain- chains, and the grand phenomena of the Caucasus, the Alps, and the Pyrenees, may nearly all be studied in our small English ridges." The same causes which appear to have acted in former ages, are now being followed by similar results ; the ruins of the various existing rocks, disintegrated by atmospheric and other changes, and gradually conveyed into the present sea, are " all destined, probably, in some future condition of this portion of our planet, with the remains of the creatures that exist in and upon them, to be raised above the level of the Atlantic, and to be covered with terrestrial life, as has happened with the far greater part of the lands of Corn- wall and Devon and West Somerset, the latter of which is merely formed of the superficially decomposed bottoms of antient seas, that have been elevated above water into the atmosphere.§ In this short outline I have endeavoured to give a view of the present state of knowledge respecting this district, which togethfl with the surrounding country was for so long a time an unresolved problem in geology ; but the very searching enquiry to which so many able geologists have devoted themselves, has probably overcome the difficulty, and at length pointed out the true position of the slates and granites of Devon and Cornwall. More extended information respecting the geology of these counties must be sought for, in the various interesting memoirs which have been published on this subject by the writers already referred to, and also by Professor Phillips, Mr. Austen, Rev. D. Williams, Col. Harding, &C. whose contributions are to be found in the various Reports of tiie British Association. Muhchisik's Anniversary Address. Ctotogieal Proceedings, roL it,, p. 9S. Voyage of the Beagle. Hi'Pkisb. Cambridge Philotophieal Tram., vol. vi., nnd Philosophical Mage Us la Beciik'. Report, p. 41k). APPENDIX, SOIL AND AGRICULTURAL CAPABILITIES OF DARTMOOR. By Edwaui) Moore, k ., late Secretary Lo the Plymouth Institution. This has been, for a long period, very debateable ground, and the efforts which have been occasionally made to render this barren spot productive, have been, in most instances, unsuccessful ; it is from this fact, that the prevailing opinion among the moormen arises, that it is incapable of cultivation. Still, when the difficulties to be sur- mounted are considered, it may be a question whether the defect is to be fairly attributed to the climate, elevation, or soil. Much, no doubt, is owing to the exposure,* the snow drills in winter, and long- continued rains in autumn ; but that is no more than occurs in all Alpine countries, and is not wholly destructive of vegetation in Scotland or Switzerland. The right of" common enjoyed by the inhabitants of the parishes surrounding the moor, and which is a great drawback to improvement, may have some influence on the opinion, and also the application of plants to the soil which it is not physically calculated to sustain, may be taken into account, and which the late improvements in chemistry may enable us to surmount : we will endeavour to illustrate this as we proceed. It is scarcely to be expected that the debris of the granite rocks should support such a luxuriant vegetation, as the more favoured spots resting on the schists and trap-rocks of the surrounding districts ; still it may be a question, whether much of the barren appearance be BOl chiefly owing to a want of adequate shelter from the cold and high winds which the more elevated localities are exposed to, since throughout the moor many of the dells and ravines, between the tors and in the neighbourhood of the rivers, present much fertility. • In Woolmrr'M Ezttcr Gaxetle, for December 7. 1839, occur Ihe following obaer- TulionB. in a communication from the Hev. J. H. Mason: — " I attended Mr. VancouTer, when he viewed the inonr. previously to hi? publishing hi* Survey of Union ; and he imMintd that Ihe blichis the luwlnnds "p subjret to. were uccasiuricd by winds which blew across the mass of pent. At Lydford, Ihe S.E. wind, ntid at W id de com be, the N.W., was injurious." Such statements from competent authority, should always be borne in mind, in all speculations on the agricultural capabilities of the moor. — S. 11. 212 PERAMBULATION OF UARTMOOE. Wistman's Wood, whose gnarled and stunted appearance is always quoted as an instance of want of congeniality or climate, may as readily be adduced as an indication of what Nature can perform there, in spite of the obstacles which exist. One of the necessary ingredients for successful cultivation, (water,) is presented in the i rivers and smaller streams which diversify the surface of the b The soil of Dartmoor, at the surface, is chiefly peat, which for ages has been accumulating in the bottoms between the tors, so as to be occasionally found from one to twenty-five feet* in thii lessening in depth as we ascend the higher grounds, where it is nui above a few inches thick. The subsoil is fine sand, which is etn beneath the peat in the numerous pits made to obtain gravel for the various roadways. The depth of this is uncertain, probably filling up all the inequalities between the different granite peaks. The present state of the moor indicates less a want of fertility than of luxuriance. It is not deficient in grass, and the whole forms a fine pasture for cattle, sheep and horses. At Baredown Farm, near Two Bridges, a very good plantation is now flourishing. The efforts of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, at Tor Royal, though at first successful, have not been followed out with equal energy, yet much benefit may be expected from recent facilities of conveyance. A granite soil is not in itself wholly unproductive, since, in low situations, the growans of Cornwall are not deficient iu that particular ;f and it has long been known that ihe neighbourhood of Penzance supplies abundance of potatoes to the London and Plymouth markets, and tliat of Exeter is chiefly fur- nished from the neighbourhood of More ton itself- De la Beche observes J that oaks, ash, and sycamore, grow well in growan, or granite soils, in sheltered situations, and though from their n to part with their moisture, these soils are less calculated for the support of fibrous than of bulbous roots, yet in Dartmoor the gnal quantity of moisture which exists will compensate lor this de quality. Sir Humphrey Davy observes, tj in a moist climate, a "siliceous sandy soil is much more productive than in dry dial And the same author states, that a sandy or gravelly sufi-soil, (such as exists in Dartmoor,) " often corrects the imperfections of too great a degree of absorbent power in the true soil." (p. 163.) "A soil,"' (says Liebig,||) "formed by the action of the weather on the com- ponent parts of granite, &c, will become a magazine of alkalies, in a condition favourable for their assimilation by the roots of plants." In order to display the qualities of Dartmoor soil, in a more particular manner, let us make a few observations on soils in general, and their action on plants during vcgetatioi • Ne«r Row Tot it is thirty feet deep. t Seu Dr. BoAir, litol'iytail TroH&actunu of Cornwall ; Hepiirt on Geology of Devon twit Cormratt. p. ilb. >} .lyri^utlitrtUCicmtfiiry,p. [I\l. || Ckentiury of Agriculture and Physiology, p. 136. ACR1C11/J I It A I. I AI'Alill.l'l ll>. 213 Soils are compounds of earths, silica, alumina, lime, magnesia, f iron and manganese, animal and vegetable matters in a losing state, and (saline or alkaline combinations, {Dam/, Ll.il -,j and the best natural soils are those of which the materials ve been derived from different strata, intimately blended together. A soil may be considered a magazine of morganic matters, which arc prepared by the plant to suit the purposes destined for them in its nutrition. (Lii'big,-p. 10.) Th» ultimate constituents of plants are those of organic matter ;il, viz., carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen. These are united in various ways: in one, to form woody fibre, starch, gum, jar; in another for the organic acids; in a third manner, to bun volatile and fixed oils, wax, and resins ; and in a fourth, to produce albumen and gluten. A plant, therefore, requires for its development, the presence of substances containing carbon and nitro- gen; of the elements of water, (viz., oxygen and hydrogen,) and also of the soil, to furnish the inorganic matters essential to its vitality. Acids and alkalies are the most important division of inorganic substances, both having a tendency to unite together and form neutral salts ; then alkaline earths, metallic oxides, &c. They vary according to the soil, and are obtained by chemical forces, guided by the vital principle, acting on the ingredients in solution, which are absorbed by the roots, and the substances thus conveyed to plants, are retained in greater or less quantity, or entirely separated, when not suited for assimilation. Sea plants require metallic iodides for their growth, and alkalies and alkaline earths, (found in their ashes,) are necessary for the development of land plants. In spring, when the organs of plants are absent which nature has appointed for the assumption of nourishment from the atmo- sphere, the component substance of the seeds is exclusively employed in the formation of the roots, which perform the functions of leaves, from the first moment of their formation ; they extract from the soil their proper nourishment, viz., the carbonic acid, generated by the humus.* ( Bulbs and tubers do not require food from the soil, and this class of plants is ranked amongst those which do not exhaust a soil, p. 60.) By loosening the ground, we favour the production of carbonic acid. The plant, as it increases, itself effects this change, and receiving food, both by its roots below and other organs above ground, rapidly advances to maturity ; and when the leaves, by which it obtains food from the atmosphere are fully formed, the carbonic acid of the soil, is no longer required, (p. 41).) When the food of a plant is in greater quantity than its organs require, the superfluous nourishment is employed in the formation of new organs. The functions of leaves are to absorb carbonic acid, and with the aid of ;ht and moisture, to appropriate its carbon, which serves for all the lid matters of the plant. They also now produce sugar, starch. ■ Woody fibre in & state of decay is lie tubaUnce c»llod Humus.— Lie mq, p. IS. PEKUtBUUTIOS !•!■ DiitrUOOK. and acids. When woody fibre is produced, to a certain extent, the supply of nourishment takea a new direction, and blossoms are pro- duced. The functions of the leaves cease, upon the ripening of the fruit, and these now yielding to the chemical influence of the oxygen of the air, decay, change colour, and fall off. Thus, in the earlier stages, the carbon is derived from the humus, or decayed vegetable matter in the soil, which is not taken up unaltered, but presents a slow and lasting source of carbonic acid, which acting in the same manner in a soil permeable to the air, as in the air itself, is absorbed by the roots. In a more mature state of the plant, the carbon is derived from the carbonic acid of the atmosphere, (composed of oxygen, nitrogen, carbonic acid, and ammonia,} which plants decompose, and appropriating the carbon for their own use, give out the oxygen again as soon as the direct or indirect rays of the sun strike them. The fertility of a soil is much influenced by its physical pro- perties of porosity, colour, attraction for moisture, and state of disintegration ; but independently of these, fertility also depends on the chemical constituents of which it is composed, (p. 199.) Alkalies, earths, and phosphates, found in the ashes of plants, are indispensable for their development. All the different families of plants are dis- tinguished by containing certain acids, in combination with earthy or alkaline bases. Thus, the vine contains tartaric ; the 60rrels, oxalic ; and corn plants, silicic acid, extracted from the 6oil. There are also, malic and citric acids, &c. The generation of these acids is prevented, when alkalies are absent from the soil in which they grow ; potash, soda, lime, and magnesia are thus as indispensable for the existence of plants as the carbon from winch their organic acids arc formed. Thus, the salts necessary for the support of the vital func- tions, if wanting in the soil, or if the bases are absent, cannot be formed, and the juice, leaves, and fruit cannot he matured. Different plants require different acids and alkalies : soda is found in sahne plants ; lime and potash, in corn-plants, &c. Upon the correct knowledge of the bases and salts required for each plant, and on the composition of the soil on which it grows, depends the application of manures, and indeed the whole system of a rational theory of agriculture. {Lttbig, p. 201.) Now in reference to Dart- moor, a pure sandy soil is generally barren; but in the disintegration of common granite, (which consists of quart/, felspar, and mica,) certain chemical constituents are found, which form useful components. Quartz is chiefly silica. Felspar, according to Bucholz and Vauquelin, contains (i0 pel cent of silica, 20 per cent of alumina, 14 per cent of potash, and a little lime. Liobig states that it contains 17j per cent of potash, and that albite, (pure felspar,) yields in addition 11.43 of soda. (p. 135.] China-clay, or porcelain earth, is decomposed felspar. Mica, according to Klaproth, yields by analysis, silica 47 per cent, alumina 22 per cent, oxide of iron 15J per cent, potash 14{ per cent, and a little manganese. Licbig says it contains only 3 to 5 per cent of potash; and according to Mr. Wallace, (Geological ?l"j Proceedings, vol. 4, p. 193,) when binaxal, potash, the new alkali, lithia, and also fluoric acid. When uniaxal, it contains magnesia, but no lime. In Dartmoor granite we find an abundance of Schorl, sometimes with, and sometimes replacing the mica. This species of tourmaline contains 36 per cent of silica, 84| per cent of alumina, 21 per cent of oxide of iron, with a little potash, magnesia, and manganese, together with a large portion of boracic acid. ( Klaproth.) The chief want, therefore, in the granitic debris of Dartmoor is a greater proportion of the alkaline earths, magnesia and lime, but these may- be obtained in the neighbourhood. Limestones occur all round the moor ; and hornblende, which is a component of the various trap- rocks, abounds in magnesia and lime. ( Wialiace, p. 194.) Hence we find nearly all the chemical ingredients necessary for vegetation in the various rocks of this district. Again, the earthy matter of peat soils is uniformly analogous to that of the stratum on which they repose ; therefore different peats on granite soils have always yielded ashes principally siliceous, (Dory, p- 167,) but other important ingredients occur in them. A barren heath, near Brunswick, according to Liebig, fp. 216,) yielded I Silica, with sand 92.651 Alumina 1.342 Oxides of iron and manganese 2.324 Lime, with sulphuric and phosphoric acid .... 0.929 Magnesia, with sulphuric acid 0.S83 Potash and soda, as sulphates and phosphates 0.564 Phosphoric acid, with lime 0.250 Sulphuric acid, with potash, soda, and lime . . 1,620 Chlorine in common salt 0.037 100.000 This heath was rendered fertile by manuring with lime, marl, cow- dung, and the ashes of the heaths which grew upon it. The peat then, besides furnishing these different salts, contributes also to form the vegetable mould, or humus, necessary for the support of vege- table life. It will not be necessary to enter farther into the chemical changes, which take place in plants, and which are fully explained in Liebig's Treatise, it is presumed that enough has been stated to point out that the soil of Dartmoor possesses qualities sufficient to warrant a fair prospect of profitable returns, when submitted to the ordinary processes of agriculture. The application of manures, whether animal or vegetable, must be determined by the necessities of the particular plants requiring to be cultivated, which if not found in the soil, must be externally supplied, for it is certain that the soil must gradually lose those of its constituents, which are removed the seeds, roots and leaves of plants reared upon it. Now in Dartmoor the great quantity of silica, will afford one of the i ingredients for all the gramineous plants, and this is shown in the luxuriance sometimes observed in corn grown on the moor. Mr. Frcan informs me, that some of his fields have yielded stalks of com- plants six feet in height. The attempts which have been made, from time to time, to bring this waste spot, into profitable use, will no doubt ultimately convert it into productive land. Great improvements were effected at Tor Royal, by the late Sir T. Tyrwhitt, amidst many disadvantages from the want of good roads. The progress may be slow, and it must be admitted that an isolated endeavour ia not so likely to be beneficial, as where many similar measures are being carried out at the same time. Let any one pass over the district, or examine a good map, and he will find that all the parts of the granite soil, east of a line, drawn from Buckland through Widdecornbe, North Bovey, and Moreton to Drewsteigntou, arc already brought into cultivation. The increasing population, in past years, pressing westward from the neighbourhood of Exeter, has gradually surmounted the obstacles of elevation and climate, and daily encroachments are still making on all the borders. The large number of workmen (200) employed at Koggintor Granite Quarry, who have no accommodation there, ha* induced the Messrs. Johnson to cause numerous cottages to be erected for their use, and gardens have already been appropriated to them. A naphtha company has lately been established at the site of the prisons, near Prince Town, and it is found that by distilling the peat, many useful products, i\s naphtha, camphine, &c, are produced. These Naphtha Works are under the management of .Mr. Drew, the inventor of the plan of proceeding, who resides there. The interior is lighted with gas obtained from the peat ; and when in full eporatUB, the consumption of peat will exceed thirty-six tons per day. Mr. Frean and others have established a powder manufactory near Two Bridges, and Mr. J. N. Bennett, solicitor, of Plymouth, has erected a dwelling-house, and inclosed 150 acres of land, uo Arche Tor, or Archeton Hill, in the centre of the moor. All these measures, by causing a demand for the wants of an increasing popu- lation, are gradually bringing the moor within the infiaeoot properly conducted industry of man. Taking therefore into consi- deration the prospects arising from the above statements, and noticing the luxuriance of those plants, which nestle in sheltered situations on all parts of the moor, we may infer that the principal desidcr.i: any attempts which may be made towards its cultivation, is, pro- tection from the one evil of boisterous winds ; and the properly- directed efforts of an industrious population may, by the erei hedges and walls, and the formation of plantations, at length, in rendering its excellent natural qualities ultimately available. APPENDIX, BOTANY OF DARTMOOR. i Moose, M.D., I.L.I., late Secretary to the Plymouth Institution. A granitic district, it is well known, is always regarded as barren and unproductive, and Dartmoor cannot be considered to be different in this respect from its congeners, even although the term " Forest," applied to great part of it, may load to the inference that, in earlier ages, it might have been dotted with trees and shrubs ; indeed trunks of tolerably-sized trees have been occasionally found in the bogs, the roots of one of which, indicating a considerably advanced growth, is now in the Museum of the Plymouth Institution. Stdl, after all, the appellation may only mean to be used in the loose sense of a Forest, or Chase, fit for the resort of game, and the recreation of the nobility of feudal times. But, it is in just such a place as this, where nature is left in full sway, unmolested by the operations of man, that the botanist meets with his greatest rarities, and many a spot exists on the moor, in which the explorer of nature may fancy himself, far removed from the busy haunts of men, where the view is bounded only by the surrounding tors and sky, and where the awful silence, which reigns around, will afford ample opportunity for sublime con- templation, only interrupted perhaps, by the sudden flight of the ring-ouzel, scared by his presence from its nest; or he may be occa- sionally startled from his reverie by the screams of the curlew, or the shrill whistle of the lapwing, dotterel, or stone plover. It will be in vain to attempt a full account of all the vegetable productions which occur in wild luxuriance, in this region, but many of the following are peculiar to it, or otherwise considered as rare in botanical collections. They are nearly all found within the granite borders, and most of them are represented in Smith and Sowerby's " English Botany," or Greville's Cryptogamia. The natural system 218 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. * of classification is adopted from Hooker's "British Flora;" the localities are from Jones and Kingston's " Flora Devonienns," except where otherwise specified. CLASS I. EXOGENOUS PLANTS— DICOTTLEDONBS. * English Names. Latin Nambs. Locality. Ord. 1.— ^Crowfoot Tribe. 1. — Banuneulaeett. Water Crowfoot Ranunculus aquAtilis Dartmoor. (M.) Ord. 3.— Water Lily Tr. 3.—Nytnph. Dwarf Orchis Orchis ustulata Shaugh Vale. (M.) Pyramidal Orchis pyramidalis Bogs. (Miss S. Baron.) Butterfly Orchis Habenaria bifolia Widdecombe. Ord. 95.— Iris Tribe. 95.— Iridece. Yellow Water Iris Iris pseudacorus Dartmoor. Ord. 98. — Grasses. 98. — Graminece. Reed Canary -grass Phalaris arundinacea • . . • Do. Bristle-leaved Bent-grass . . Agrostis setacea Do. Purple Melic -grass Melica csrulea Do. Blue Moor-grass Scsleria ca?rulea Do. Reed Meadow-grass Poa aquatica Do. Floating do fluitans Do. Alpine do alpina Do. Ord. 99. — Sedges. 99. — Cyperacece. Prickly Twig-rush Cladium mariscus Do. (M.) Black Bog-rush Schacnus nigricans Do. White Beak-rush Rhyncospora alba Do. Bull-rush Scirpus lacustris Streams. (M.) Floating Spike-rush Eleocharis fluitans Do. Many-stalked do multicaulis .... Do. Creeping do palustris Dartmoor. (M.) Scaly-stalked do ^__ cacspitosa Do. Hare's-tail Cotton-grass . . Eriophorum vaginatura .... Bogs. (M.) Broad-leaved do polystiehion . . Do. Common do augustifolium . . Do. (Miss S. Baron.) Flea Carex Carex pulicaris Do. Tufted-bog do ca?spitosa Hamildown. Great pendulous do pendula Widdecombe. Great panicled do paniculata Dartmoor. (M.) Lesser common do paludosa Do. Greater common do riparia Do. CLASS III. CELLULAR PLANTS.— ACOTYLEDONES. English Names. Latin Names. Locality. Ord. 100.— Ferns. 100.— Filices. Sub. Ord. — Polypodiacerc. Mountain Polypody Polypodium phegopterus . . Beckey Fall. Common do vulgare Moor, generally. Prickly Shield-fern Aspidium aculeatum Dartmoor. Lesser crested do — — spinulosum Woods, Dunsford. Filmy-leaved do Hymenophyllum Tun- bridgense Rocks, Wistman's Wood. BOTANY OF DARTMOOR. 223 nglish Names. Latin Nahbs. Sub. Ord. — Lycopodiacee. >n Club-moss Lycopodium claratum . . . seiago 01. — Mosses. 101. — Musci. Falcate Andrea .... Andrea Rothii eared Bog-moss .... •ear-shaped Beardless >ear-shaped do hint-fruited do ed do leaked Weissia .... do j rim mi a eared do ng Fringe-moss .... do d hoary do inted do as do ired Fork-moss .... lo do pur-fruited do se do e Screw-moss iring Hair-moss :ed do Thread-moss . . .rent green do. yme do. ...... do ?ndulous do. . . »cked do ine do. . . I bog do. a Apple-moss alked do. ... Pterogonium eckera us Anomodon 'ater-moss ... lo Hookeria . . . eather-moss . r*s do do 5 do nted do. g-leared do. . o do -leared do. . rared do. ... lo i do rested do. ... Sphagnum obtusifolium Gymnostomum fasciculare . . — — — - pyriforme .. — — — — truncatulum. Anictangium ciliatum .... Weissia cunrirostra crispula , Grimmia orata Didymodon heteromallus Trie hostomum patens ... lanugino8um . heterostichum microcarpon . fasciculare .. Dicranum taxifolium glaucum flexuosum rirens , strumiferum Tortula reroluta Polytrichum urnigerum undulatum . . Bryum palustre crudum » # • • roseum . . . turbinatum . nutans elongatum . alpinum ... rentricosum Bartrammia marchica arcuata Pterogonium gracile Neckera pumila • Anomodon curtipendulum . . Fontinalis antipyretica .... squarrosa Hookeria lucens Hypnum donianum — — schreberi alopecurum • dendroides — — piliferum Bquarrosum ■ palustre — — fluitans rugosum .. uncinatum undulatum scorpioides molluscum Locality. Heaths, Dartmoor. (M.) Do. Rocks on the moor, near S. Zeal. Bogs on the moor. (M.) CosdonHill. (Dr. Grerille.) N. Borey. Moor, generally. Downs, Dartmoor. (M.) Granite rocks. Do. Yannaton Down. Hey tor. Cosdon Hill. (Grerille.) Sheepstor, Dewerstone. (Rer. J. Tozer.) Rocks, Lustleigh. Do. N. Borey. Lustleigh, N. Borey. Do. Dunsford. Widdecombe. Bogs. (M.) Cosdon HU1. (Grerille.) Prison. (M.) Hey tor. N. Bovey Bridge. Streams, White works. Moor. - Bogs on do. (M.) Do. Hedges, N. Bovey. Whiteworks. (Tozer.) Peak Tor. (Tozer.) Wild Tor. Heytor Down. Bogs on the moor. (M.) Do. Cosdon Hill. (Grcville.) Lustleigh, Botter Rock. N. Bovey. Tore, Wistman'sWood. (M.) Streams. (M.) Prince Town. (To^er.) Streams, Beckey Fall. Woods, Man a ton. Dartmoor. (M.) Do. Lustleigh Cleve. Do. Man a ton. Prison. (M.) Prince Town (M.) Source of Plym. (Tozer.) Do. of Tory-brook. (Tozer.) Manaton. Do. Source of Tory-brook. (T.) Heaths, Dartmoor. (M.) >2. — Liverworts. 102. — Hepaticce. Jungermannia Jungermannia albicans .... Tors. (Rer. Mr. Newberry.) 224 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. English Names. Latin Names. Locality. Ladder Jungermannia .... Jungermannia scalaris .... Houndtor Wood. Hollow-leaved do cochleariformis Streams on the moor. (M.) Toothed do barbata Beckey Fall. Creeping do reptnns Houndtor Wood. Silvery alpine do julacea Streams of Dartmoor. (M.) Ord. 103. — Lichens. 103. — Lichenes. Brown Mushroom Bceomyces Baeomyces rufus Rocks, Heytor Down. Grey -clouded Endocarpon . . Endocarpon miniatum Tors, Mo re ton, Ac. Brownish-black Lecidea . . Lecidea fusco-atra Tors on the moor. (M.) Confluent shielded do confluens Do. Black shielded do parasema Do. Map do altro-virens Do. Heytor. White do alba Do. N. Bovey. Frosty shielded do albo-ccerulescens . . Do. Rusty shielded do caesio-rufa Do. Rock do — — petrsea Do. Ingsdon. Red Spangled Lecanora . . Lecanora ventosa Do. Heytor. Wall-eyed do glaucoma Do. Widdecombe. Crab's-eye do., or Perelle . . perella • Do. Doddiscombleigh. Tartareous do. (Cudbear) . . tartarea* Do. Blackstone. Blood-speckled L __ hcematomma .... Highest tors. Yellow wall do ~__ murorum More ton. Glomuliferous Parmelia . . Parmelia glomulifera .... Trees, Chagford. Perforate shielded do '■ perforata Granite rocks. Bright green do herbacea Chagford, Lustleigh. Purple rock do —__ omphalodes .... Tors, Mo re ton. Sunburnt do aquila Tors, Botter Rock. Borrer's do borreri Trees, N. Bovey. Chesnut shielded do conspersa Rocks, Wist man 'sWood.(M) Lungwort Sticta Siicta pulmonaria Trees, Lustleigh Cleave. Pitted do scrobiculata Do. N. Bovey. Mealy-bordered do limbata Rocks, do. Pitted wood do sylvatica Hedges, near the moor. Jagged Collema Collema lacerum N. Bovey, Moreton. Marginal do marginale Walls, N. Bovey. Thrush Peltidea Peltidea aphthosa Woods, Lustleigh. Dark-ground do ___ rufescens Manaton, N. Bovey. Many-fingered do ■ polydactyla .... Beckey Fall. • These two yield a red dye ; the Cudbear however is inferior to the Perelle, which equals the celebrated Archil (Rocella tinctoria) which grows on maritime rocks, and is abundant on those of the Scilly Islands. — E. M. These Lichens a few years since formed a profitable article of commerce. In September, 1843, the host of the Saracen's Head, Two-Bridges, informed me that he had often been employed to receive the moss collected from the rocks in that neighbourhood, and to send it to Plymouth for exportation. At Trowlsworthy, on the southern borders of the moor, the warrener gave me a similar account, in June, 1843, stating that although the women and children, who gathered the lichen, were obliged to use a kind of chisel to detach it from the rocks, they could procure as much as would pay them at the rate of two shillings a day. But in former years the demand must have been greater. Lysons re- lates that in the years from 1762 to 1767, inclusive. Mr. Davey collected from the rocks and tors of Dartmoor nearly one hundred tons of the lichen tartarea. Many tons of the lichen perella were collected in the neighbourhood of Okehampton, about twenty yean ago. •• After they have been well stripped," remarks Lysons, " it requires many years to clothe the rocks again with these vegetable productions." The Rev. E. A. Bray, (Tamar and Tavy, vol. 1, p. 128,) noticing the mosses of Dartmoor says, * 4 1 amuse myself with fancy- ing that I have discovered an allusion in Pliny, to the beautiful scarlet moss still found on the moor, which not many years ago, was used as a dye for cloth." Pliny says, when speaking of British dyes, that '*they were enriched by wonderful discoveries, and that their purples and scarlets were produced only by certain wild herbs." — S. R. BOTANY OF DARTMOOR. 225 English Nambs. Latin Nambs. Locality. Resupinate Nephroma .... Nephroma resupinata . . . . Rocks and trees, Chagford. Snout Gyrophora Gyrophora proboscidea .... Tors, Dartmoor. (M.) Corroded do „• __ erosa Do. (Rev. Mr. Newberry.) Fringed do __ cylindrea Do. ( Rev. Mr. Newberry.) Burnt do deusta Rocks, near Prison. (M.) Blistered do pustulata Blackstone, Scobitor. Fleecy do pellita Heytor Down. Glaucous Cetraria Cetraria glauca Heytor, Botter Rock. Iceland do.* islandica Dartmoor. (M.) Branny Borrera Borrera furfuracea Tors, Dartmoor. (M.) Brasswire do flavicans Rocks and Trees. Blistered Umbilicaria Umbilicaria pustulata .... Dartmoor. (Hooker.) Fastigiate Ramalina Ramalina fastigiata Heytor, Lustleigh. Rock do. f __ scopulorum .... Do. do. Jointed Usnea Usnea barbata Widdecombe, Chagford. Rock Hair J Alectoria jubata Heytor rocks, Lustleigh. Dark Radiated Cornicularia Cornicularia tristis Rocks (Rev. Mr. Newberry) Black woolly do lanata Do. (Rev. Mr. Newberry.) Aculeated do spadicea .... Do. (Rev. Mr. Newberry.) "White Isidium Isidium coral linum Do. Heytor Down. Dubious do paradoxum Dartmoor. (M.) Coral Sphsrophoron Spherophoron coralloides . . Do. Grimspound. Tender do fragille .... Do. Sheepstor. Compressed do ■ compressum Do. do. Much-branchedStereocaulon Stereocaulon paschal e .... Do. Grimspound. Clustered do botryosum . . Do. Elk's-horn Cup-lichen .... Scyphophorus alcicornis . . Tors, common. (M.) Endive-leaved do endivifolius . Heytor, Bottor Rocks. Buckshorn do __— _^_— cervicornis .. Do. do. Fringed do __ fimbriatus . . Do. N. Bovey. Thread-shaped do — - filiform is . . Heytor Down. Fingered do digitatus . . N. Bovey, Manaton. Scarlet do cocciferus.. Tors. (M.) Forked Cladonia Cladonia furcata Heaths on the moor. Short perforated do uncialis Do. Rein-deer Moss rangiferina . . . Do. Heytor Down. Ord. 104. — Characeous 104. — Characea. Tribe. Common Chara Chara vulgaris Streams on the moor. (M.) Hispid do hispida Bogs. Flaccid do flexilis Do. Ord. 105.— Water Flags. \05.—Algce. Sub. Ord. — Confervoideee. Moor Conferva Conferva ericetorum Dartmoor. (M.) Purple do purpurascens Do. Alpine do alpina Do. Silky do bombycina Do. Floccose do floccosa Do. Inflated do - vesicata Do. River do rivularis Do. • This is the celebrated Iceland moss, made into cakes and eaten by the Ice- landers, with grateful thanks, at a time when other food is scarce. It is used medicinally in this country as a demulcent in coughs, &c. f "This," says Hooker, p. 225, "appears to hold the place. in northern regions, which Rocella tinctoria does in the southern." X This affords food to the rein-deer in winter, as well as the cladonia ; but as it is principally found on trees, these (when the snow is frozen) are purposely cut down that the animals may more readily obtain it. 226 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. t English Names. Latin Names. Locality. Inflated Zygnema Zygnema inflatam Bogs, Heytor Down. Orange Chxoolepus Chroolepus aureus Rocks on the moor. (M.) Sub. Ord. — Gloiocladeae. Rosy Palmeila Palmella rosea Woods, Manaton. Plaited Nostoc Nostoc verrucosum Rocks and Streams. (M.) Common do commune Dartmoor. Ord. 106.— Mushrooms. 106.— Fungi. Black-scaled Agaric Agaricus melleus Manaton. Subacrid rufous do lactifluus Do. Tawny do. farinaceus Do. Moss do hypnoram Heytor, and near Prison. Cinnamon Polyporus .... Polyporus perennis Woods, Moreton. Real Amadou fomentarius .... Manaton. Pepper Boletus Boletus piperatus Do. Common Stinkhorn Phallus impudicus Beckey Fall. The preceding list is confessedly an incomplete one ; the formation of a botanical collection is a work of time ; that of Dartmoor can only be perfectly accomplished by one who has leisure to reside on the spot ; by others, casual visits must be made at particu- lar periods, during the flowering of the various plants, and that often under many disad- vantages, where the botanist in the absence of all shelter, is exposed to sudden changes of weather, and frequently drenched to the akin : such a misadventure becomes an effec- tual damper to his zeal and ardour in the pursuit. Some unlucky instances of this kind, are the excuse which the writer of this notice must plead for his deficiences of the present contribution. The specimens noticed in the Flora Devoniensis are chiefly from the east side of the moor, whilst those marked (M.) have been procured in the wild and less cultivated district on the west side, within a circle of ten miles, taking Two-Bridges as a centre. Where the succession of the orders is not numerically followed, in the preceding catalogue, it arises from the writer not having obtained plants belonging to those which are omitted. Instead of carping at such a catalogue as is here presented, the readers of the Perambulation, will, 1 am persuaded, agree with me in feeling grateful to Dr. Moore, whose interest in the natural history of his own neighbourhood has led him to find time from the important professional duties of a physician, practising in a populous town, to furnish the present ample list of the principal Plants, with the following catalogue of the rarer Birds of the district, besides his valuable papers on the Geology and Agricultural Capabilities of Dartmoor. — S. R. APPENDIX, No. IV. ORNITHOLOGY OF DARTMOOR. By Edward Moobs, m.d., ?.l.s, late Secretary to the Plymouth Institution. The catalogue of Dartmoor birds will be found of a much more limited character than the wildness of its aspect would lead us to expect. The preservation of game, induces a watchful scrutiny of the district, and no sooner does one of the elegant falcon tribe make its appearance, than, under the name of vermin, it becomes a sacrifice to the merciless gin or the gun of the gamekeeper. The progress of cultivation, also, has tended to drive away the antient denizens of the Forest, and the eagle, the bustard, the crane, and the kite are now but seldom to be met with. The black cock is fast disappearing, and though the ring-ouzel still clings to the locality, yet it may not be long ere the extension of civilized life may deprive it of its resting- place. The chronicler of the day, however, must take nature as he finds it, and be content to register the changes which time in its progress may effect. The present state of the moor still exhibits that dreary character, which excites the admiration of the poet, and the explorer of nature will yet discover many a spot where he may fancy himself to be far removed from the busy haunts of men, where the view is bounded by the surrounding tors and sky, and the awful silence, which reigns around, will afford ample scope for divine contemplation, only interrupted perhaps by the sudden flight of the ring-ouzel, scared by his presence from its nest ; or he may occa- sionally be startled from his reverie by the screams of the curlew, or the shrill whistle of the lapwing or golden plover. The aerial visitants of the moor itself are generally those whose wild nature precludes their descending into the lower grounds ; but the greater cultivation on its eastward side has occasioned its ornithology to be there of a mixed character, while around its borders, where 2£8 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. ■ good shelter occurs, we shall find most of the rarer specimens belonging to the climate. The frequenters of the uncultivated parts are now chiefly the sparrow-hawk, the hobby, the goshawk, the hen-harrier, the brown, or marsh harrier, and the buzzard. In the neighbourhood of the solitary turf cottage, may be found the crow, blackbird, thrush, the redbreast, sparrow, chaffinch, and wren, and occasionally the swallow and martin. Near the water-courses, are the wagtails, the kingfisher, and water-ouzel. On the open downs and heaths, are the skylark, titlark, wheatear, mountain-linnet, black-grouse, quail, golden, great, and grey plovers, lapwing, dotterel, curlew, whimbrel, snipe, purre, and sanderling. The common gull is an occasional visiter, and the ring-ouzel remains the greater part of the year. The great facility, which occurs in the neighbourhood of the moor, for procuring specimens, has occasioned considerable attention to be paid to ornithological pursuits, and collections have been made in various parts of Devonshire. Besides those of Exeter, and of Ashburton, (formed by the late Dr. Tucker,) I have derived assistance from the following sources : — Museum of the Eight Hon. the Earl of Morley, at Saltram. : — in the Park of the Right Hon. the Earl of Mt. Edgcumbe. of the Rev. K. Vaughan, Aveton GifFord.* of John Newton, Esq., Millaton, Bridestow. of the late W. Comyns, Esq., Mount Pleasant, Dawlish.* of Richard Julian, Esq., at Estover. of the Rev. Collins Trelawney, at Ham. of Sir George Magrath, M.D., Plymouth. of J. Whipple, Esq., Plymouth. of Edward Moore, M.D., Plymouth. of Mr. Bolitho, Plymouth. of Mr. J. B. Rowe, Plymouth. of the Athenaeum, Plymouth. of the Natural History Society, Plymouth. of the late Mr. Drew, Stonehouse. of the Rev. W. S. Hore, Stoke. of Cornelius Tripe, Esq., Devonport. of Mr. Row, Devonport. of J. Pincombe, Devonport. The following list will include all that I can learn have been found on the moor itself, for which the authority will be given, either of the capture or of the collection in which the specimen may be now * Now dispersed. J ORNITHOLOGY OF DARTMOOR. 229 seen, which in the case of Mr. Drew, Mr. Bolitho, J. Pincombe, and myself, will be distinguished by the initials D. B. P. M. respectively. Those which breed on the moor, will have the letter (4) appended to the name, and the occurrence of any very rare bird in the neighbourhood will be noticed in a separate list, the circumstances respecting which will be detailed. RAPTORES. Sea Eagle, or Erne — Aqxdla albiciUa. A specimen obtained near the Eddy- stone, some years ago, was kept alive by the late Addis Archer, Esq., at Leigham. One, at Drew's, was shot in 1834, near Bridestow ; another, frequently seen on Dartmoor, in 1832, was shot in October of that year, near Kingsbridge, by W. Elliot, Esq. Polwhele* mentions a black eagle as formerly having a nest in the woods of Eggeford, (a corruption of Eaglesford ?) and states it to have been frequently seen on the moor. The Osprey — Pandion haliceetus. Frequently seen on the moor, says Pol- whele. Several specimens have been obtained : two in May, 1831, at Estovcr ; another in September, 1831, is at Saltram ; one on the Avon, at the Rev. Mr. Vanghan's ; another on the same river, now in the Rev. W. S. Horc's collection. Peregrine Falcon, or Cliff Hawk — Falco peregrinus. Seen on Dartmoor during the migrating seasons. One caught in a trap, at Mutley, in 1831, is at Sir G. Magrath's ; others in the collection of the Athenaeum, Mr. J. B. Rowe, and D. B. P. Hobby Falcon — Falco subbuteo. Breeds in Devon, according to Polwhele. In Lydford woods, Mr. Newton. Mr. G. Leach says, also, in Chebitor Wood. Specimens at Millaton, Ham, and one in my possession, shot at Warleigh, June, 1830. Kestrel — Falco tinnunculus. Mr. Newton, D. B. P. M. Goshawk — Astur palumbarius. Seen on the moor. A specimen, at Bolitho's, was shot on the nest, near South Tawton, in 1830. Sparrow Hawk — Accipiter fringillarius. Mr. Newton, Mr. Rowe, D. B. P. M. Kite — Milvus vulgaris. A specimen caught at Trowlsworthy warren, Dartmoor, is in Capt. Morshead's collection, at Widey, 1831 ; another at Saltram ; one at Sydenham's, 1835 ; D. B. ; but is annually becoming more rare. Common Buzzard — Buteo vulgaris. Mr. Newton, D. P. B. M. Hen Harrier (b) — Circus pygargus. Mr. Leach, D. B. P. M., m. and f., at Saltram. Marsh Harrier, or Moor Buzzard (b) — Circus rufus. Mr. Leach, Mr. Newton, B. M. INSESSORES. Water Ouzel (b) — Cinclus aquaticus. Mr. Leach, D. B. M. Missel Thrush (b) — Tvrdus viscivorus. M. B. D. P. * History of Devonshire. 2g 230 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Song Thrush (b) — Tardus musicus. M. B. P. D. Fieldfare— Turdus pilaris. M. B. P. D. Redwing — Turdus iliacus. M. B. P. D. Blackbird (b) —Turdus merula. M. B. P. D. Ring Ouzel (b) — Turdus torquatus. Migrates in October ; returns in April and breeds about the tors. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Hedge Warbler (b) — Accentor modularis. M. D. B. Redbreast (b) — Sylvia rubecula. D. B. M. Stonechat(6) — Saxicola rubicola. Mr. Leach, D. B. M. Whinchat(ft) — Saxicola rubetra. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Wheatear(6) — Saxicola cenanthe. Mr. Leach, D. B. M. Pied Wagtail(6)— Motacilla Yarrellii. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Grey Wagtail — Motacilla boarula. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Ray's (yellow) Wagtail — Motacilla flava. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Tit, or Meadow Pipit (b) — Anthus pratensis. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Skylark (b) — Alauda arvensis. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Woodlark — Alauda arborea. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Snow, or Tawny Bunting — Plectrophanes nivalis. Mr. Newton, D. B. Yellow Bunting — Emberiza miliaria. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Chaffinch — FringiUa Calebs. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Brambling — FringiUa montifringilUu Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Mountain Sparrow — Pyrgita montana. Polwhele. Sparrow (b) — Pyrgita domestica. M. D. B. Twite — Linaria montana. Polwhele, D. M. Bulfinch — Pyrrhula vulgaris. Mr. Leach, M. D. B. Starling — Sturnus vulgaris. Mr. Leach, Mr. Newton, B. M. Raven (b) — Corvus corax. Breeds on the moor, (Mr. Leach ;) at Tavy Cleave, (Rev. S. Rowe ;) on Dewerstone, (E. Moore.) Crow — Corvus corone. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Hooded Crow(6) — Corvus cornix. Said, by Pennant, (Zoology, vol. 2,) to breed on the moor, but resorts to the coasts in the winter : is becoming very scarce however. One at Mr. J. B. Rowe's, D. B. Rook — Corvus frugilegus. D. M. Jack-daw — Corvus monedula. D. M. Magpie — Pica caudata. M. D. B. Wren (b) — Troglodytes vulgaris. M. B. Hoopoe — Upupa epops. Polwhele says it was shot on Dartmoor. Speci- mens have been obtained at Millaton, Warleigh, Ham, and Saltram. Cuckow — Cuculus canorus. M. D. B. Kingfisher (b) — Alcedo hispida. Mr. Leach, M. B. Swallow — Hirundo rustica. Mr. Leach, M. Martin — Hirundo urbica. Mr. Leach, M. Swift — Hirundo apus. Mr. Leach, M. The swallows and martins, after leaving the nest, roost in large flocks in the low brushwood of the borders of the moor. RASORES. Black Grouse (b) — Tetrao tetrix. Mr. Newton, M. B. Red Grouse^ — Lagopus scoticus. A single specimen of this bird was shot on ORNITHOLOGY OP HAHTMOOR. 331 DtoQaoor, in October, a few years since, by Mr. Newton, in whoao collection it. remain*. I am also informed by Mr. C. I'ridcaux, of Dodbrook, tli.it a female of the same species was shot mar St. .ki.nl nun, ■ f<-\\ mmi.- -inee, by Mr. Case, (on tilt estate nuud Prance, j in whose poMoaaioa it now i>. 1 inajgm — Lagopvt mattu, A single specimen of this bird, in snmmer plumage, wm also shut 00 Dartmoor, in October, by Mr. Newton, who flU hag it in his ■ rVtridge(i) i'.-nli.i- •-imrai. Mr. Leach, B. M. QmO — I'.nlix mturnu: Mr. Leach, B. M. hi 1846, a qnail, on a nest with niiu- egga, was killed by a scythe, in a field of Mr. C I'ridcau\'s, at Dotl- bruoL Poiwhclt- has seen tlie eijgs also in ll'e ]Mri.-h of Sherfurd. GRALLATORES. Great Plover — sEthtiieiiius m/iiltm*. Ilev. S. Rove, M. I!., ami U !l;nn. Gulden Pl. H. M. ■ood* often teen on the moor. Dotterel — Cliayndriti* mormtllui. Rev. S. Rowo, U. Seven] of tbecs Mr. Rowe on Chittaford Down, in September, 1828. My specimen was shot un Dartmoor, in April, 1840. Lapwingf/i) — VawMus crist.itm. Mi. Newton, B. M. These, and thi- golden plover, are found in flicks, towards winter, on the borders of the moor, and arc brought to market in groat numbers. Sander ling ft) — Clmrailrins rttlitlrix. Mr. Newton, I). II. M. Often mia- uken for, and not bo numerous &, the pnrre. It is seen mi the moor, from April toJaJy. Crane — Grus dnerta. Cranmere Pool, on Dartmoor, is supposed. In -nm., named, from the resort of cranes there in antietit times. A fine speci- men, at Drew's, was shot on the borders, (at Buckland Munaehorum,) in 1826. Black Stork— C't'oniVi ni;/™. A fine specimen was seen nn the moor in 1881, which was afterwards shot on the banks of the Tamar, and is now in Drew's collection. Link- Bittern — Botaums mimitus, Bridestow. Mr. Newton. Night Heron — Nycticwoj: /•'iirn/iinm. Occasionally seen on the borders of the moor. Specimens have been shot at Lcigbam. Two were in the Rev. Mr. Vaughau's "■!!< iTi-.n, shot at Aveton Giflbrd. Glossy Ibis — Fbu fakmellm. Borders of the moor. Shot at Warleigh ; »l»o near Bride-stow, by Mr. Newton. Cnrlew(&) — Numeimx arqaatu. Breeds on the swamps of the moor. Spe- cimens at Mil la ton, Sal tram, D. B. M., &c. : Sandpiper — TVanu* macularia. Mr. Newton, M. Woodcock ft) — Sim Iojms > uMiMla. Polwhele says it breeds on Dartmoor. In May, 1830, a young bird was shot at Cann Down, near Bickleigh Vale, which N>'Ction at Saltram. [6) — Scolopax gaJiinat/o. Mr. Leach, l>. U. M. Grant Snt|ie — s,;./,./„t,- i,,uj<,r. (Jov. S. Hore. In November, 1646, a ser- ir Anthony Boiler, shm a Kue specimen >>" hart moor, which «.i- sen! l« Mr. Leaili. who informed Uie of the eircn instance, il is now in Hie museum ..I' the l>eron and Cornwall Natural lllstorv Society, "tie at Mr. liow's. Jack Snipe — .ew's, and Pincombe's. Lake. ORNITHOLOGY OF DARTMOOR. 233 Snowy Owl — Strie iiyctea. One at the Rev. Mr. llore's, shot on Millbrook Long-eared Owl — Ota* vulgaris. A pair shot at Bncklaud Abbey by Mr. Wdliaui C.ill, In April, 1846. Specimens at D. B. P. Short-eared Owl — Otus brachyotet. Saltram, M. ike — Lfiidus txeMtor. Polwhele : ■.■ae shot at Leigham, 1815, in my possession ; out* swn at Hani. 1830. Mr. Newton has one, shot near Millatoii. Pied Flycatcher— Muswvtpa utricapithi. Mount Edgcumbe, Rev. Mr. Hore. Golden Oriole — Orivlu* gtttbuta. Specimens have been obtained at Oke- hampton Park, by Mr. Newton, also hy Mr. Julian, at Estover, and at Mount , i Warbler — Wtraria locnstclla. Hare. A specimen, shot at . is in my collection ; another in the liev. Mr. Vaugban's ; one also at -lid Mr. Row's. Dtrt&rd Warbler — Mtluophitus Dartfordicnsis. Specimens at Drew's and BetibWa, Fireercst — Regidus ignicapiUus, A specimen at Pincombe's. Bearded Titmouse — Cnbiinophibu btarmJau. Specimens at Mr. Tripe's, aa'a, and tour at the Rev, Mr. Vanghan's. Bohemian Wwz-wwf—Jlofnin/ciUa garrttla. At Sal tram, Mr. J. B. Howe, Dl B. M. Richard"s Lark— Anthiis Rkhardi. Rev. Mr. Hore and Mr. Row. Hawfinch — Coccothrimslca vulgaris. Mr. Newton, D. B. M. Siskin — Linaria spinas. Mr. Julian, U. P. In the autumn of 1836, five canght in a trap, on the lines, at Devonport. One at Saltrain, shot at Langdon. Parrot Crossbill— f.orm pitynpsittacus. Rare. Mr. Newton shot nine of them near Millatoii, in 1888. Nutcracker — S'tiafrmju canim-atni-tta, Montagu, Coinvns, &c. ■ I — Pastor roseus. Two specimens sent lo the British Museum, from Aveton Gift'ord, by the Rev. Mr. Vaughaii ; another shot there, June, 1834. Seen also at Saltram. (mat l.iLn<:k Wood[>cckei* — Firus martins. A specimen is in Mr. Newton's which was shot near Crediton. iMiiiter Sotted Woodpecker — Pirns major. Two shot near Modbury, Lull, 1830 ; another in December, at Mr. Whipple's. One in my pots- •eeaion, shot st Beer, 1834. Two anil a nest obtained in Ham Woods, 1835. ■ itted WiifHlpecker — Pirn.- minor. Hue iron i nki-hnmpton, at Drew's ; i:.:ir Kings bridge, l=v Mr. W. lYidcanx, June 1838, in my possession ; Mr. li-iw, at Antony, 1846. - Vnu.i- torquilla. < Ino shi >i at Leigham, in my collection ; one, at Mill&tuu ; another, at Ham. Another caught by a lime twig, on Upson Hill, Bee-eater — Merops apiastn -. Hue at Leigham, 1818 ; another at Ivy bridge, 1822 ; another at Mr. J. B. Rone's, Plymouth. Rock Dove, or Cliff Culver — Columlm liria. One from Plymouth Market. December. 1818, in ray collection, shot near Egg Buckland. Turtle Dove — Col ba tnrttir. One obtained in Est over Lawn, 182'J. by Mr. Julian. D. B. M. and Mr. J. B. Rowe. Red-lcggod Partridge — Pcr/Iic rubra. Mr. Newton shot one of these on Ilroodbiiry MiK.tr, near BiidcM™, which i. ihot in hi- I'ullceliini. I Bustard— Otit tarda. Plymouth, 1798 ; Montagu ; and at Hotindale, near Dartmoor, 1799 ; Rev, S. Rowe. 234 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Little Bustard — Otis tetrax. Two mentioned by Montagu. One shot near Bigbury, in the Rev. Mr. Vaughan's collection. Purple Heron — Ardea purpurea. One seen on the Plym, April, 1824 ; ano- ther, near Fleet, 1836. A specimen shot near Aveton Gilford, was sold at the Rev. Mr. Vaughan's sale, in March, 1847. Great White Heron — Ardea alba. Seen by the Rev. Mr. Vaughan on Aveton GhTord River, in 1805. (See Montagu's Supplement.) Little Egret — Ardea garzetta. Shot on the Dart, in 1816. Rev. Mr. Holdsworth. A specimen is. in Mr. Newton's collection, shot near Crediton. Spoonbill — Platalea leucorodia. A specimen, shot on the Tamar, is in Mr. C. Tripe's collection ; another, killed on Millbrook Lake, is at Bolitho's. A Devon specimen was sold at the Rev. Mr. Vaughan's, March, 1847. Avocet — Recurvirostra avocetta. Mr. Tripe has one from the Tamar ; Mr. Bolitho, one from the Tavy ; another, from Kingsbridge River, is at the Rev. Mr. Vaughan's. Ruff — Machetes pugnax. Mr. Drew has a young bird — a fine male in summer plumage, shot near Aveton Gilford : sold, at the Rev. Mr. Vaughan's, in 1847. Brown Snipe — Macroramphus griseus. A specimen at Drew's. Temminck's Stint — Tringa temmincku. At Bolitho's. Little Crake — Crex pusiUa. Mr. Newton shot this bird on the borders of a rivulet, running through the lawn, at Millaton. One at Drew's, caught in the streets of Devonport. APPENDIX, No. V. WILD QUADRUPEDS, &c. OF THE MOOR. By Edward Moorb, m.d., f.l.s., late Secretary to the Plymouth Institution. There is reason to suppose that in former days, when Dartmoor was retained as a royal Forest, it might have been tenanted by more noble game than are now to be met with on its surface. The red deer are now driven to the more northern portions of the county, about Exmoor, and, I believe, are gradually disappearing altogether, the annual hunt being only kept up by the zeal of a few sportsmen, who protect them for this purpose.* The fox, hare, and otter are now the principal objects of pursuit. Badger-baiting being discon- tinued in consequence of the existence of a more humane feeling amone the people. A collection of the moor quadrupeds was made by Mr. George Leach, which he presented to the Devon and Cornwall Natural History Society. Specimens which I have obtained, (chiefly from Weir, of Trowlsworthy warren,) I have placed in the museum of the Plymouth Institution. CHEIROPTERA. Great Bai—Vespertilio noctula. Common about Ashburton and Haldon. Mr. T. Abraham. Common da — Vespertilio pipistrellus. Plymouth Institution. Long-eared do. — Plecotus auritus. Plymouth Institution. Great Horse-shoe B&t—Rhinolophus ferrum-eqwnum. INSECTIVORA. Hedgehog— Erinaceus Europcew. Plymouth Institution. * A paragraph in the Plymouth Herald, July 13, 1847, states that the Honourable Newton Fellowes intended hunting for the season, on the 11th of August, at Brendon Barton, near Lynmouth, and that deer were plentiful. 286 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Mole — Talpa vulgaris. Plymouth Institution. Common Shrew — Sorex araneus. Rev. Mr. Hore. Water Shrew — Sorex fodiens. Plymouth Institution. CARNIVORA. Badger — Metes taxus. Otter*— Ztdra vulgaris. Common Weazel, or Ferry — Mustela vulgaris. Plymouth Institution. Stoat, or Ermine — Mustela erminea. Plymouth Institution. Polecat, or Fitchet — Mustela putorius. Plymouth Institution. Common Marten — Maries foina. D. and C. Natural History Society. Pine Marten — Maries abietum. D. and C. Natural History Society. Fox — Vulpes vulgaris. D. and C. Natural History Society. RODENTIA. Squirrel f — Schirus vulgaris. Plymouth Institution. Dormouse — Myoxus aveUanarius. Harvest Mouse — Mus messorius. Long-tailed Field do. — Mus sylvaticus. Common do. — Mus musculus. • • Black Rat — Mus ratios. Brown do. % — Mus decumanus. Water Vole — Arvicola amphibius. Field do. — Arvicola agrestis. Rev. Mr. Hore. Bank do. — Arvicola pratensis. Rev. Mr. Hore. Common Hare — Lepus timidus. Rabbit § — Lepus cuniculus. * The otter is frequently seen on the moor, and sometimes hunted in its vicinity. It seems to frequent the sea as well as the rivers, since great numbers of them occupy"* hole at the Devil's Point, near the Royal William Yard, where they may be frequently seen sporting of an evening. f Squirrels are found in abundance in woods all round the borders of the moor. % Varieties often occur on the moor ; I possess one of a yellowish white, another of a reddish white, both caught in traps at Trowlsworthy warren. § These animals are preserved in warrens, at Ditsworthy and Trowlsworthy on the moor, surrounded by enclosures to prevent them from straying. Traps are set in the walls, whence most of the wild animals of the preceding list have been obtained. FISHES OF DARTMOOR. Most of the streams of Dartmoor are so shallow, so rapid from the abrupt elevation of the ground, and so exposed to sudden freshets from heavy rains, as to be not well calculated for the resort of a large variety of fishes; the principal species are of the family Salmonidce, and even these, from the depredations committed by netters and anglers, have but little opportunity of reaching their full growth, seldom, in the higher grounds, exceeding five or six inches in length, and rarely acquiring half a pound in weight.* They all pass under the name of trout, but in truth there are several other species among them. Mr. Spence, of Mutley, has for some time been occupied in investigating the progress of the growth of the young salmon, so as to test the assertion of Mr. Shaw, f that the parr is the young of the salmon, at one period of its growth ; for this purpose he has been supplied weekly with fresh fish from the neighbouring rivers, from February to August, 1847! On examining his collection, I find that he has obtained fishes, distinctly retaining the characters of the parr, during the whole of the months of July and August, at which time it is generally understood that the young salmon of the previous year have lost those marks, have acquired their silvery coats, and gone down to the sea as smolts ; at the same time the pinks of the year are increasing in size, being in August about five inches long, assuming the smolt dress, while the parrs are mostly eight inches long, retaining their lateral markings, and instead of being silvery, are yellowish in colour like the trout, hence it follows that this is a distinct fish from the salmon ; in this case an opinion opposed to that of Mr. Shaw, would seem to be a necessary consequence. $ The following fishes are found in the rivers of the moor, chiefly in the young state. Order, Malacoperqii Abdominales — Fam. Salmonex^. The Salmon — Salmo salar. Abundant as salmon-pink, (three inches long,) and as they become larger, they are found lower down the rivers, (until the * On one occasion a trout, 2$/o*. weight, was obtained by Mr. J. Pridham, near Two Bridges ; and another, of nearly Albs., was caught by Mr. Hoarder. f Bdmgburgh New Philosophical Journal, July, 1836, and January, 1838. X See Mb. Yarrbll's British Fishes, vol. 2, p. 43, and Treatise on the growth of Salmon in fresh water. 2 ii 288 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. spring of their second year, says Mr. Shaw,) when changing to salmon-smolt, they migrate to the sea. I am not aware that any have been obtained on the moor as salmon-peal, or grilse,* which perhaps from the impediments of weirs, hutches, and fishermen is scarcely to be expected, but occasionally a full-grown salmon has been seen. Bull-trout, or Roundtail — Salmo criox. The young is the whitling of the Tweed ; it is found in the Plym and Tavy, whence Mr. Spence has obtained specimens : it is also sometimes termed a Truffe. Salmon-trout — Salmo trutta. The whitefish of Devonshire, — sea-trout of Pennant, — found in the Dartmoor rivers. Mr. Spence, however, imagines that this has been mistaken for the young of the former. Parr, or Samlet — Salmo salmulus. Termed also brandling, or fingerling ; skegger, on the Thames ; hepper, on the Dart. Very numerous in the Plym and Tavy. Trout — Salmo fario. Also numerous. These fish are sometimes obtained by tickling ; I have seen half-a-dozen an hour caught by a farmer's boy in this manner, by wading into the river under shady banks or small bridges. Order, Malacoptergh afodes — Fam. Muiuenidje. Sharp-nosed Eel — AnguUla acutirostris. These are found in great plenty, and are frequently caught by a ground line, baited with worm, in sheltered nooks during freshets. The Snig — AnguUla mediorostris. At Mr. Spence's, from the Plym. Another Eel has been obtained by Mr. Spence, which Mr. Yarrell thinks to be a distinct species. Order, Chondropterygii — Fam. PetromyzidjE. River Lamprey — Petromyzon fluviatilis. Found in the Dartmoor riven, according to Polwhele. * Young salmon, if under two pounds weight, are termed salmon-peal, if above that, grilse. The bull-trout and salmon-trout are often erroneously called salmon-peal. Mr. Spence has acquired a method of preserving the colours of his fish for a con- siderable period ; the method pursued is as follows : — As soon as the fish is caught it is put into a bag or basket of bran, so as to preserve the scales from friction ; this is afterwards carefully washed off, and the skin of one side, with the head, tail, and fins, is dissected off the body of the fish, taking care not to separate the true skin from the cuticle ; this is laid on a dry towel, and in twelve hours is properly arranged. The fish is thus allowed to dry gradually, and is submitted to gentle pressure slowly increased. About the fourth day the skin may be removed to a board, the red spots touched over with a little red ochre, and the black spots on the gill-covers with black varnish. The pressure is still continued, and when thoroughly dry, the skin may be removed to paper and varnished over with common or isinglass varnish. In this manner the colours have been preserved, at present, for two years. APPENDIX, HISTORICAL VIEW OF MINING IN DARTMOOR, AND THE PRECINCTS. Bi the Author. Is the course of the foregoing Perambulation, we have been led to make frequent reference to the mines and tin trade of Britain in the earliest ages, in connexion with the vestiges of antient stream- works, still existing in our moorland district. Many particulars of great interest, are preserved by the Greek writers ; but although there can be no doubt that mining operations were carried on by the Romans, subsequently to those which had been successively under- taken in the times of the Phoenicians and Massilian Greeks, the information to be gathered from Latin authors on these interesting subjects is of limited extent and incidental character. Cicero, (who appears to have been misinformed,) observes that no silver is produced in Britain. Caesar, as we have already seen, con- fines himself to a notice of the plumbum album, raised in the interior, and the iron, which, in small quantities, fexigua copia,) was found near the coast. Even so late as the time of" the Spanish geographer, Pomponius Mela, (who wrote about A.D. 45,) it would appear that little information could then be gleaned, since he indulges a hope that many more particulars would be obtained concerning the nature of the country, and its productions, than had yet transpired, f/ualis sit quaiesqnr pragencmt, mox urtioru et magi* v.rpforata dtccniur. Still, the reputation of the tin islands was firmly established; and the same author describes Britain, as abounding in wood and water, and in its estuaries, producing gems and pearls. Fert netnora, sallusque, ac prcegrandia fiumina, alternis molilius, modo in pcltigum, modu retro fiuentia, et qu/t:dani ijanmas, mtirijaritasque i/enerantia* With regard to the pearls and gems, we have no certain information, but the „ tte situ Orbis, lib. iii., cup. 3. Ista Dutini, 1711. 240 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. other particulars apply with much exactness to the district contiguous to Dartmoor, and to the rivers which issue from its heights, and flow through the tin districts to the sea, such as the Tavy, the Tamar, and the Plym. Nor can we imagine that so powerful and enter- prising a nation as the Romans, would have failed to employ their supremacy in Britain, to the obvious purpose of sharing in that branch of commerce, for which the Cassiterides had been so long celebrated, and which had been so eagerly pursued, for so many ages by the Phoenicians and Greeks in succession. Norden, accordingly, explicitly affirms that " the Romans also took their turn to searche for this corn- modi tie, as is supposed by certain of their monies which have been found in some old workes renewed."* They seem not only to have engrossed the whole of the tin trade, but to have improved the mining system, by various inventions and processes, which taught the Britons to apply to their domestic purposes a metal that had before been only useful to them as an article of commerce. Nothing material is recorded of the history of mining opera- tions in the west, during the Saxon period. The miseries of barbarian invasion, which afflicted the whole province, after the withdrawal of the Roman legions, extended to Devonshire. And long after the eastern parts of south Britain had enjoyed comparative tranquillity, under the Saxon sovereigns, the braver inhabitants of the west, still contending for their independence, and resisting the Saxon yoke, experienced the miseries which must ever attend those countries which are made the seat of war. This was peculiarly the case with the south-western parts of Devon ; perpetual battles and skirmishes took place between the British and the Saxons, who had overrun the country west of Exeter, but had never conquered it. Nor was it until the reign of Athclstan, that the Tamar became the acknowledged boundary between the invaders and the antient possessors of the soil, although the Danmonian peninsula had been previously divided into the counties of Devon and Cornwall, and nominally included in the kingdom of Wessex. Under such circumstances we need not wonder at the absence of all notice of mining operations or commercial enter- prise ; as the unsettled state of public affairs would necessarily affect the peaceful pursuits of trade and commerce in the most prejudicial manner. To the incursions of the Saxons, succeeded the piratical forays of the Danish freebooters, who found ready access to the heart of the country by the navigable rivers, Tamar and Tavy, as when they destroyed the monastery of Tavistock and the town of Lydford, in 997, and carried fire and sword through the stannary districts of Devon. These constant alarms must have materially injured the tin trade, as well as all other branches of commerce ; yet it is thought that there must have been a large demand for tin, in the sixth and following centuries, from the general use of bells in churches, which began to prevail from that period throughout Europe ; and which, it « Nordbn's Cornwall. Lond. 1728, p. 12. JllSTOlllcll. \ IBW Of MlMM;. 241 is well known, are cast in a mixed metal, into which tin enters largely an an indispensable ingredient. lie firmer rule of the Norman conqueror, mining opera- tions in the west once more revived. The works appear' to have l>cen chiefly in the hands of Jews, whose ancestors it is supposed by Carcw, and other authors, had been thus employed from the time of the Romans downwards, having been brought hither as cap- tives after the overthrow of Jerusalem, or else having found their way ito those remote lands in consequence of the general dispersion which took pLiee alter that calamitous event. Traces of the outcasts of srael, thus dispersed to the ends of the earth, under the ban of Almighty vengeance, are still to be observed in the mining districts of 'ie west, especially in Cornwall. From the Norman conquest to the ;ign of John* the Jews engrossed the tin which was raised, and hich, according to Borlasc, was inconsiderable in Cornwall, the whole n farm in that county being only 100 marks, while the tin of Devon as at the same time farmed for £100. In the reign of Henry III. ie tin mines were worked by the same people, with increased effect, )ttt upon the banishment of that oppressed race, by Edward I., mining affairs became neglected. " Afterwards," says Carew, " certain gentle- men, being lords of Blackmore, whose grounds were best stored with his mineral, (tin,) grewc desirous to renew this benefit, and so upon mite made to Edmond, Earl of Cornwall, sonne to Richard, king of he Romans, they obtained from him a charter, with sundrie privileges, amongst which it was granted them to keepe a court, and hold plea of all actions, (l>'f e > lymme, and land excepted,) in consideration whereof he said lords accorded to pay the Earle a hallpcuny for every pouud which should be wrought." This charter applied to the MM duchy, and therefore included Dartmoor and the Devon mines i general. It also directed, that certain places should be appointed (stannary towns, and authorised the holding of stannary parliaments, t was confirmed, together with that of King John, by the charter of Edward I., in the thirty-third year of his reign. From this time the •ecnliar laws and customs relating to the stannaries are chiefly to be ited ; many of which, are still in force, though not to such an extent in former times when, with respect to tinners, the stannary courts .ercised an exclusive jurisdiction, f From this period also the tinners of Devon and Cornwall, who ly formed but one body, (meeting on Hingston Hill, near on, every seventh or eighth year, to concert their common became divided, and formed distinct bodies of men. J Five !!■ !i granted n charter tu the tinners of Devon mid Cornwall, (3rd Jolm, •h October, 1301,) a copy of which, from ihe rolls, in the Record Office. Tower, is 'en in Dr la Heche's Report, (p. til',) and is added iu the cud uf this Appendix, f They now take COgnixance of all causes, relative to tin mines, and liarc (till < rriadiction and peculiar privilege*. * From this time alio, pr<>luhly. the Devonshire stnimators began to hold Iheir st«n- it Crockem Tor, i 1 of DutmooT, Mt PKH AMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. coinage towns for Cornwall were then appointed, and three for Devon, and each tinner was permitted to sell his own tin, after being duly assayed at one of the said towns, unless the king insisted on buying it himself, as stated in the said charter. The Devonshire stannary towns were Tavistock, Ashburton, ( Asperlon, ) and Chagford, to which Plympton* was added in tin; reign of Edward III., f and Lydford was exclusively appointed as the stannary prison. *. It would appear from a petition to parliament in the first year of Edward III., a copy of which is also given in De la Beche's Report, (p. 628,) that the tinners of Devon exercised the privileges thus granted in a most arbitrary, undue, and oppressive manner, exceeding alike the bounds of their jurisdiction, and the powers with which they were vested. They claimed the whole county of Devon as their " stannary," whereas the petitioners alleged, their permis-sion to dig for tin " in every place of waste and moor, where they believe tin can be found within the said county," was confined to the Forest of Dartmoor only. They complained " that the said tinners do daily dig and claim to dig, in every species of land, as well in tilled as in other lands, and destroy houses, meadows, and woods, and divert and turn the course of waters running as well to mills as elsewhere, throughout the whole county, to the great destruction and disherison of the said commonalty." This crying grievance seems not to have been effectually redressed, for the next half century, as a petition to the same effect was presented to the king in parliament, (50 Edward III. 1377,) " when it was directed that the customs and usages of the tinners should be diligently inquired into, and that the warden of the stannaries should not suffer any of them to dig in the meadows, fell the woods, and knock down the houses of others out of malice."*] That such extraordinary privileges appear to have been claimed with no little pertinacity, appears from Oarew's account, from whom we learn that though, about the year 1600, the Cornish tinners only claimed to work without permission of the lord or owner of the land, upon wastes or in was trail, those of Devon still claimed the right to digge for tynnc in any man's ground, inclosed or unclosed, without license, tribute, or satisfaction. || Grants for working mines in the county of Devon were made in the reigns of Edward III., Richard II., Henry IV., and Henry VI. The mines continued to be protected by the crown, and particularly by Henry VII. and Edward VI., when they were neglected, and in the reign of Queen Mary, fell into decay. When Elizabeth suc- ceeded to the crown, the mines of the kingdom partook of the • These towns, il will be observed, are nil nihiiled along the verge of the t In 1328. Lvsosa 1 Devon, p. 12, %, and 408. J Et si quistnnnatonim prcdicto ram, in aliijiio deliqaerint, jwr i\sv\ henni, per cnatodmn prn'ciielmn nreslpntvir. et in prison* nuslm de Lvdtl'.ii.l. , i custodianlurctdetineanlur. Hot. Cmiht. 33. Ed w. I. ': 1 u- i i Beche's Rtpert, p. " " mey oj Coma i. 13. HISTORICAL VIKW l»F MINING. ^•ta ftMteflBg care which this renowned queen extended to every object, which might enlarge the resources, or contribute to the greatness of her government. As skilful miners were probably not then to be found in England, from the interruption which had taken place in carrying on works of this sort, she invited over Germans to open mines in different parts of the kingdom.* It is generally believed that the lead and silver mines, at Beer Ferrers and Combe Martin, were extensively worked in this reign, although these mines are not noticed by any contemporary writers on the subject, f The impulse given by the illustrious Elizabeth to these mining operations, seems to have reached to the succeeding reigns at least, since Risdon, who began his Survey in 1605, and completed it in 1630, gives an account of the mining labourers, which leadB to the conclusion that they must have then formed an extensive class among the inhabitants of the county. " There are also labourers, that serve for daily wages, whereof be two sorts ; the one is called a spadiard, J a daily labourer in tin works, with whom there is no labourer in hardness of life to be compared, for his apparel is coarse, his diet slender, his lodging hard, his drink water, and for lack of a cup, he commonly drinketh out of his spade or shovel, or some such thing, without curiosity in satisfying nature. His life most commonly is in pits under the ground, and in great danger, because the earth above his head is in sundry places crossed over with timber, to keep the game from falling." § At the close of the seventeenth century, as stated by the editor of Risdon, the tin mines of Devon appear to have heen productive. Webster, who wrote a treatise on metals, in the year 1670, gives particulars of some situate on the hills above Plyropton, which he had from one Thomas Creber of that place, " who was one," as he says, " that had wrought the tin mines, and all his ancestors before A century after, Chappie, in his Review of Risdon, in alluding to the above account, writes as if mining in Devon had hardly any existence. This however must have arisen from want of information on his part, since although mining has languished at various intervals, it has never entirely ceased in our district ; or his observations might refer to stream-works for tin, which have been long declining and are riot now found in Devon. " The last stream-work," says De la Beche, " of which we can obtain information, seems to have been that car- ried on near Plytupton St. Mary's, about the year 1808." Considerable improvements must have taken place in mining * ll hu been justly re marked, by tli is writer, that Crown diile, ricnr Tsvisloik, f» unlike the names of places in that neighbourhood, points ill origin to these German miners, M it is very like the names of mines in Uarmany. t Introduction to HuDon's Surrey, edit. 1811. I Why should not Ibis expressive word be revived for " excavators," instead of the birbaroui solecism of " navigators," certainly, i ! Risoon's Sxrvty, p. U. Di u Bsciie's Import, p. 647. 244 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. affairs, between the time to which Chappie refers, and the beginning of the present century. The Introduction to the modern edition of Risdon's Survey states the metallic produce of Devon (for a period of ten years, from 1801 to 1810, inclusive,) to be as follows : — £ 8. d. Copper 326,612 3 6£ Tin 30,000 Lead 12,874 1 6 The bulk of this produce was from the immediate vicinity of Dart- moor, — from the two parishes of Mary Tavy and Tavistock ; the mines in Mary Tavy having made returns equal to £204,070 19*. llfrf., and those of the parish of Tavistock being equal to £129,290 12$. OJrf.* From this comparative statement, it will be evident that the copper mines had become by far the most productive at the period in ques- tion ; but although, from the Report above quoted, it would appear that copper was raised in Devon early in the last century, it was not until the commencement of the present, that the copper mines in this county became important. These, with the tin and lead mines, con- tinue to be worked to the present time ; but from the same authority we learn that little lead is now produced, in the western mining districts, only about 140 tons having been raised in 1835, from the Devon and Cornish mines together. The following historical notices are collected from De la Beche's Report, as an authority on which the fullest reliance may be placed. " After being smelted, the tin has for more than six centuries paid a tax to the earls and dukes of Cornwall. Having been cast into blocks, it was taken to the respective towns already enumerated, — examined by the duchy officers, — stamped, when found to be of proper quality, with the duchy seal, — and the dues being paid, the blocks were then permitted to be sold. In the sixteenth century the coinages, as they are called, took place only twice a year, about Midsummer and Michaelmas, but afterwards, became quarterly. According to the the charter of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, the tin paid a duty of a halfpenny for every pound weight, when coined. In the reign of Edward I., the duty was fixed at four shillings for every hundred weight of coined tin, at which amount it has since continued. The duchy dues upon the tin coined in Devon, have been long less than those imposed upon that of Cornwall, having been only at the rate of Is. 6%d. per cwt. By an act of William IV., (16th August, 1836,) the duties payable on tne coinage of tin in Devon and Cornwall were abolished, and a compensation in lieu of them granted to the duchy, and fixed at 15s. per cwt. for tin, and at 10s. for tin ore. " In 1213, the duty on tin, payable to the Earl of Cornwall, was farmed for 200 marks for Cornwall, and £200 for Devon, by which it is evident that the mines of the latter county were then the more ♦ Introduction to Risdon's Survey, p. 22. HISTORICAL VIEW OF MINING. 245 valuable. In 1337, the year in which the Black Prince was created Duke of Cornwall, the profits of the coinage of Devon were £273 19*. 5frf. In 1471, the quantity of tin raised was 242,624/fo., the profits of the duchy in our county being £190 17s. ll^rf., at the rate of 1*. 6f d. per cwt. In 1479 the amount of the coinage dues was £166 9*. 5\d. In 1524, 424 tinners of Devon paid, in addition to the coinage, 8d. per annum for white rent to the duchy. In 1602, (44, Eliz.,) the tin coinage amounted to £102 17s. 9Jef. The annual amount of tin raised in both counties, in the reigns of James I. and Charles I., is given from 1400 to 1600 tons, but the proportion for Devon, is not specified. In the time of Charles II., the tin revenues were much reduced, probably owing to the disturbances of the great rebellion. Accordingly, in more tranquil times, under Queen Anne and George I., they had again risen to about 1600 tons in the whole duchy. About 1742, the average produce for several years is re- ported at about 2100 tons. At the close of the eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth century, the tin revenues of the duchy are stated at about £9620 per annum ; in 1814, about £8500, and in 1820, about £11,125. From that year, to the abolition of the coinage in 1838, the average has been commonly estimated at between £11,000 and £12,000 for the whole duchy." Any attempt to enter more in detail into the present state of mining operations, and the metallic products of the Forest and its precincts, is rendered unnecessary by the comprehensive view of the Geology of Dartmoor (see Appendix, No. I.) which Dr. E. Moore has kindly contributed, in addition to his valuable papers on the Botany and Zoology of the moorland district, and for which the best acknowledgments of the author, are gladly and gratefully tendered. COPY OF THE CHARTER GRANTED BY KING JOHN, A.D. 1201. Johannes, Dei gratia, Rex Anglise, &c. Sciatis nos concessive quod omnes stam- matores nostri in Cornubia et Devonia sint liberi et quieti de placitis nativorum, dam operantur ad comraodum firm» nostra vel conimodum marcarum novi redditus nostri qui stammariae sunt nostra dominica. Et quod {xxssint omni tempore libere et qniete absque alicujus hominis vexatione fodere stammum et turbas ad stam- mum fandendum ubiquc in moris et feodis Episcoporum et Abbatum comitatuum sicut solebant et consueverunt et emere buscam ad funturam stamnii sine vasto in regardis forestarnm et divertcre aquas ad operationem eorum in stammariis sicut de antiqua consuetudine eonsueverunt. Et quod non rccedant ab operationibus suia pro alicujus summonitione nisi per summon itionem capitalis custodis stam- mariarum vel baillirorum ejus. Concessimus etiam quod capitalis custos stamma- «v 1 246 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. riarum et bailivi ejus per earn habent super prsedictos stammatores plenariam potestatem ad eos justificandos et ad rectum producendos et quod ab eis in carceribus nostris recipiantur si contigerit quod aliquis praedictorum stammatorum debeat capi vel incarcerari pro aliquo retto. Et si contigerit quod aliquis eorum merit fugitivus vel udlugatus quod catalla eorum nobis reddantur per manum custodis stammariarum nostrarum, quia stammatores firmarii nostri sunt et semper in debito nostro. Praeterea concessimus thcsaurariis et ponderatoribus nostris nt suit fide- liores et intentiores ad utilitatem nostram in receptione et custodia thesauri nostri per villas marcandas quod sint quieti in villis ubi manent de auxiliis et taillagiis dum fuerint in servitio nostra thesaurarii et ponderatores nostri quia nihil habent aliud vel habere possunt per annum pro praedicto servitio nostro. Testibus Wilielmo Comite Sarresburiae, Petro de Stokes, Warino filio Geroldi. Data per manum S. Wellensis Archidiaconi apud Bonam Villam Super Tokam vicesimo nono die Octobris anno regni nostri tertio. APPENDIX, No. VII. DARTMOOR PRISON OF WAR. By the Author. Few circumstances having had greater influence upon the present condition of the moor than the formation, about forty years since, of an extensive depot for prisoners of war, in the centre of the Western Quarter, a sketch of that important national establishment, unique in its character, and remarkable for its situation, may be fitly appended in this place. When the first decisive check had been given by the illustrious Nelson, at Trafalgar, to the whirlwind career and gigantic designs of Napoleon, — when, under the righteous retribution of the Almighty, France was to experience, in her turn, the reverses of defeat, and the miseries of war, which she had so long inflicted upon other countries, — when the tide of victory gradually rolled back, and England numbered the captives of her prowess by thousands, — it became necessary to provide ampler accommodation for the unfor- tunate exiles, than could be afforded in the crowded and unhealthy buildings or prison-ships, appropriated for that purpose at Plymouth. The late Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, who held the office of Lord Warden of the Stannaries, under the Prince of Wales, (George IV.,) and who had already distinguished himself as one of the earliest and most successful cultivators of Dartmoor, by his improvements at Tor Royal, suggested the erection of the necessary buildings, at a spot about a mile from the scene of his own agricultural enterprise. Surveys were accordingly made by order of government, and the result of the investigation entered into was so favourable, that the spot recom- mended was decided upon, as the site of a war-prison establishment, on a scale suited to the exigencies of the case, and worthy of the humanity and renown of Great Britain. The ground required for the site was liberally granted by the Prince, as Duke of Cornwall, and Lord of the Forest of Dartmoor. The foundation-stone was laid by the Lord Warden, on the 20th of March, 1806, and the buildings were speedily raised after the design, 248 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. and under the superintendence of, Mr. D. Alexander, architect. The following details are selected from the compendious account given by the late Mr. Burt, in his notes to Carrington's Dartmoor, and from a statement published about the time of the erection of the prison, in the new edition of Risdon's Survey of Devon, personal obser- vation, and other sources. " Granite taken from the moor," says Mr. Burt, " is the prin- cipal material ; and the whole, including some later additions, cost about £127,000. Two of the prisons, a row of houses for subordinate officers, the walls of the chapel, and the parsonage-house, were erected by the French, and the interior of tie chapel fitted up by American prisoners, who received a daily gratuity for their trouble ; government, with a sympathy for these unhappy victims of ruthless war, which deserves the highest praise, kindly permitting them by this, and other modes of employment, both in and out of the walls, to alleviate the tedium of their captivity, and increase their private comforts."* The author of the Additions to Risdon, published in 1811, gives the following compendious description of Dartmoor Prison, which had then been lately completed. It is probably the finest thing of its kind. " An outer- wall encloses a circle of about thirty acres ; within this is another wall, which encloses the area in which the prisons stand. This area is a smaller circle with the segment cut off. The prisons are five rectangular buildings, each capable of containing more than fifteen hundred men ;f they have each two floors, where is arranged a double tier of hammocks, slung on cast-iron pillars ; and a third floor in the roof, which is used as a promenade in wet weather. There are, besides, two other spacious buildings ; one, which is a large hospital, and the other is appropriated to the petty officers, who are judiciously separated from the men. In the area, likewise, are sheds, or open buildings, for recreation in bad weather. The space between the walls forms a fine military road J round the whole, where the guard parades, and the centinels being posted on platforms over- looking the inner-wall, have a complete command of the prison with- out intermixing with the prisoners. The segment, cut off from the inner circle, contains the governor's house, and the other buildings necessary for the civil establishment ; and into this part of the ground the country people are admitted, who resort to a daily market with vegetables, and such other things, as the prisoners purchase, to add to the fare that is provided for them, and which they buy at lower rates, than they can generally be procured for, at the market towns. The barracks for the troops form a detached building, and are distant from the prison, above a quarter of a mile. The number of prisoners that have been lodged here, has been from five to seven thousand, § and * Carhington's Dartmoor, p. 140. t Considerably more. See note below. X Nearly a mile in length. § Subsequently as many as 9,600 were congregated within the walls at one time. DARTMOOR PRISON OF WAR. 249 the troops employed to guard them not more than from three to five hundred." • The great gateway on the western side is arched over with immense blocks of granite, bearing the appropriate inscription, in Roman capitals, PARCERE SUBJECTIS. Immediately opposite is the ample reservoir, from whence the whole establishment was served with copious supplies of purest water. Indeed the abundance and purity of this most essential article of daily life, was one of the causes which influenced the decision of government in selecting the spot, which was incontrovertibly proved to be remarkably healthy, notwithstanding the acknowledged severity of the climate. . I am enabled to make this statement on high pro- fessional authority, that of Sir George Magrath, of Plymouth, M.D., the talented and skilful physician who presided over the medical department from 1814 until the close of the war.f From official returns, it appeared that the mortality among the prisoners was less in propor- tion, than in any town in England with an equal population. A substantial chapel with a steeple, which forms a conspicuous object amidst the surrounding waste, was built for the accommodation of the officers of the depot, the troops, and the inhabitants of the busy little town, which had rapidly sprung up in the immediate neighbour- hood of the prison establishment, under the name of Prince Town, in honour of the royal lord of the soil. " Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt," remarks Mr. Burt, " with his wonted regard for the welfare of Dart- moor, procured the privileges of holding a market and a fair. The chapel and parsonage-house lie a little way apart from the front of the prison. The former is sixty feet long by forty wide, and was first opened, in 1815, for divine service, which is continued ; the parish church of Lydford being twelve or thirteen miles distant, though burials and christenings must still be performed there. It is capable of accommodating five hundred persons." But the bustle and activity of this busy mart, in the midst of the desert, were brought to an early, and, in the opinion of many, to an unexpected close. War had continued so long, that many feared, and some hoped, that it would still be prolonged, even after the duration of a quarter of a century. But the period had arrived when the nations of the world were to be taught the instructive lesson, that the mightiest conqueror is but an instrument in the hand of the King of kings. And thus the subjugator of a continent, for whose ambitious schemes Europe was too narrow, was hurled from that portentous throne, which he had reared on the ruins of vanquished nations and • R.18DOV* a Survey, Additions, 1811, p. 410. f 1 am indebted to thin gentleman for some valuable observations on this important subject, which will be found at the close of this Appendix. 250 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. cemented with torrents of blood, and cast aside, when his work was done, like " a despised broken idol." When England, in the strength of a righteous cause, had chained the disturber of Europe, peace, at length, once more returned to bless the harassed and exhausted nations. The French, and subsequently the American prisoners, were restored to their native lands ; the troops, stationed at the prison to guard them, were, removed, and the vast establishment gradually broken up. As an unavoidable consequence, Prince Town soon presented the forlorn spectacle of grass-grown highways and ruinous habitations ; shops and houses were shut up ; the once busy mill, on Blackabrook, was still and silent, the moorland stream ran freely and uninterrupted in its antient channel ; while the prison itself, in the desolate stillness of its spacious courts and apartments, afforded a striking contrast to the ceaseless hum of the multitudinous human swarm previously hived together within the walls. Carrington alludes to the change with his usual felicity. Silent now,— How silent, that proud pile, where England held Within her victor gripe the vanquished foe ; here, fall many a blooming cheek was blench'd ; here, fall many a gallant heart was qnell'd By stern captivity ; protracted, till Hope almost ceas'd to bless the drooping brave. Hope, though long deferred, came at last to incarcerated thou- sands, with joyful realization. More than thirty years have glided away, since liberty was here proclaimed to the captives, from the various countries, who had been compelled to drain their population to recruit the armies of Napoleon. Long may it be, ere Dartmoor Prison shall again be required for the sad purpose for which it was originally erected ! Various projects have been, from time to time, suggested for the useful occupation of these spacious and commodious premises, such as a depot for convicts — a penitentiary — a school of industry and asylum for destitute children, rescued from the streets of the metropolis — a peat gas manufactory, &c, all which have been abandoned in succession. The scheme of locating convicts at Prince Town has lately been revived and the project for subjecting the peat, with which the immediate neighbourhood abounds, to chemical pro- cesses for the production of naphtha, and other substances, has been carried on for some time, with results which promise to remunerate the enterprising proprietors of the works, established at Prince Town. And however un picturesque the array of peat-stacks, which meet the eye on every side, may appear, how gratifying the reflection that if some portion of the former activity of Prince Town has been revived, it is due to the arts of peace, and unconnected with those heart-rend- ing miseries which war must always bring in its train. The sentiments of the late Felicia Hemans, in her Prize Poem on Dartmoor, are so germane to the subject, and embodied in such DARTMOOR PRISON OP WAR. harmonious and pleasing strains, that they will form an appropriate appendage to our notice of the disused War Prison of England. It is a glorious hour, when spring goes forth O'er the bleak mountain* of tin' shadowy north. Ami with mm radian! ulatiee, one magic breath. Wake* all things lovely from the sleep of death ; While the glad voices of a thousand streams Bursting their bondage, triiiDi|ih in her beams. But peace halb imlil.-r change* '. (At the mind The warm and living spirit of mankind Her influence breath.-s, and bid; the. blighted heart To lit'.- and lin|ir. hum di—.pfiliipi], start ! She with a look dissolves the captive's eluvin, Peopling with beauty, wiilowM hmnes again. Around the mother in her closing years Gathering her sons once mure, and from the Wars Of th( dini post, but winning purer light To nwk« the present mine seronelv bright. The testimony of a medical officer, of known reputation, as to the sanitary condition of a large national establishment, in this particular situation, is so important in an historical, scientific, and philanthropic point of view, that I gladly avail myself of his obliging permission to insert in this place, a communication, with which lie has kindly favoured me. ON THE SANITARY CONDITION OF DARTMOOR. Bt Sir George MAonATn, m,d., f,k.s., f.l.s., m. im.a., &c. From personal correspondence with other establishments, similar lo Dartmoor, I presume the statistical records of that great tomb of the living, (embosomed as it is, in a desert and desolate waste, of wild, and in the winter time, terrible scenery, exhibiting the sublimity and grandeur occasionally of elemental strife, but never partaking of the beautiful of nature,* its chmate too, cheerless and hyperborean,} with • The gtntltr beauties of nature are certainly not lo be sought for in the neighbour- hood, and the eifccls of the wild scenery on the unhappy cspUYes, hag been feelingly and faithfully noted by (he mnurltmd niuae. O '. who that drags A captive's chain, would feel his soul refresh'd. Though scenes like those of Eden should arise Around his hated cage ! But here green youth Lost all its freshness, manhood all its prime. And age sank to the tomb, ere peace her trump Exulting blew; and still upon the eye In dread monolouy, at morn, noon, ere. Arose the moor — the moor I Cans wot on. 252 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. all its disadvantages, will show, that the health of its incarcerated tenants, in a general way, equalled, if not surpassed, any war prison in England or Scotland. This might be considered an anomaly in san- itary history, when we reflect how ungenially it might be supposed to act on southern constitutions, for it was not unusual in the months of December and January for the thermometer to stand at from thirty- three to thirty-five degrees below freezing, indicating cold, almost too intense to support animal life ; but the density of the congregated numbers in the prison, created an artificial climate, which counter- acted the torpifying effect of the Russian climate without. Like most climates of extreme heat or cold, the new comers required a seasoning, to assimilate their constitution to its peculiarities, in the progress of which, indispositions, incidental to low temperature, assailed them ; and it was an every-day occurrence among the reprobate and incorrigible classes of the prisoners, who gambled away their clothing and rations, for individuals to be brought up to the receiving room, in a state of suspended animation, from which they were usually resuscitated, by the process resorted to in like circumstances in frigid regions. I believe one death only took place during my sojourn at Dartmoor, from torpor induced by cold, and the profligate part of the French were the only sufferers. As soon as the system became acclimated to the region in which they lived, health was seldom disturbed. During my service there, malignant measles and small pox were imported from other contaminated sources. These diseases attained to great virulence among the Americans, chiefly arising from habits of indulgence, from the ample pecuniary resources they possessed, and the facilities of obtaining spirits, and sumptuous articles of diet, from the market people, which no vigilance on the part of the authorities could suppress or obviate. The latter disease degenerated into an exasperated species of peripneumonia, accompanied by low typhoid symptoms, which became very unmanageable and destructive. Inde- pendently of these contagious epidemics, (for they became so,) the depot may be said to have been surprisingly healthy. I possess no register of the condition of health or disease obtain- ing in other war prisons, so as to enable me to draw an accurate parallel, but Dartmoor was generally considered equal, if not superior, to any depot where the same numbers of men were confined in so narrow a compass ; but it must be borne in mind, that after the closing of Mill-Bay Prison, Dartmoor received men from the colonies, long shut up in transports, and often landed with the seeds of infection generated among them, and predisposed, by privations and a vitiated atmosphere, to disease, while none were sent to the prisons in the interior, but men selected on purpose, in perfect health. The capacity of accommodation at Dartmoor was on a very extensive scale, and far beyond any other prison; a greater number of men was conse- quently congregated there, than elsewhere, which proportionately diminished its means of health, as it was calculated to contain 9000. Nor should it be forgotten that a state of confinement invokes moral DVRTMOOR PltlSON OF WAR. 25$ and physical impressions deleterious to mental as well as bodily health. The foregoing observations refer particularly to the period when the depot was under the medical superintendence of Sir George Magrath, viz., from his appointment to that important office, in 1814, to the close of the establishment, in 1816, during which time the diseases of the American prisoners, above specified, came under his professional notice and care. Were it compatible with the plan of this work, the subject might be further elucidated, by reference to a testimonial, presented to him by the prisoners, and transmitted to the President of the United States, demonstrative of their regard, and expressive of the high sense they entertained of his humane exertions and well-directed skill, in alleviating, as far as possible, the sufferings and maladies to which they were exposed in their place of durance. Circumstances more favourable for testing the comparative healthi- ness of the climate of Dartmoor (however inclement, in winter) can hardly be predicated ; and if any of the numerous plans for locating large numbers of persons in the prison buildings,* should ever be realized, the results of experience, recorded by a competent observer, may become of great practical importance. It may however be remarked that independently of the state of foreign prisoners, sufficient and most satisfactory proofs of the healthiness of the general climate of the moor, as well as of this particular spot, may be adduced without difficulty. Situated at about mrteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, and exposed to the bleakest winds, Prince Town must necessarily (as has been shown above) often experience great severity of weather ; and accordingly there arc very few days in the year when the cheerful peat lire on the hearth, so characteristic of the district, would not form a most agreeable adjunct to domestic comfort. But the free mountain air, an abundant supply of water of the purest quality, and every facility for the most perfect drainage, wouhl more than counterbalance (for many purposes) the coldness of the situation. Epidemic diseases are by no means so common in the moorlands as in less elevated tracts, and the inhabitants generally, arc remarkable for vigour of consti- tution, a green old age, and length of life; and many of the most eminent medical practitioners of Plymouth and other neighbouring towns liave, in some particular cases, sent their patients lor change e purlieu la r • One of those projects, alluded to in a former page, may dog notice, as having received the patronage, uf royalty, mid excited considerable i ll the time. It wu proposed l" collect a larsjw mimhei of orphan children from ihe ■treeUof the metropolis and to place Ilium M I'rinco Town under a system of religious, moral, and industrial training, which it was confidently hoped, would lend to reclaim them from liabiii of vice and immorality, and tender tlicm mefnl members if society. Al » public meeting, held in London, in ItCJU. it was announced that hi* majesty lieorge I V. had headed Ihe subscription for tht? accomplishment of these objects, by n princely donation ol £1000, and had further offered to lirant part of the tieiphhunnnB moor for the same benevolent purpose. Itui unexpected diffionltiei intervened, and ihe resolutions of the meeting were never carried into effect. 8 K 854 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. of air to the moor, with great success. The tourist coming from the more genial clime of the lowlands into the bleak and cloudy regions " of the mountain and the flood," might be inclined to commiserate the hardy countryman whose life is spent amidst the snows and mists, the rocks and wastes of Dartmoor, but he, like other mountaineers, is little disposed to exchange the home of his youth, and the freedom of the moor, for more circumscribed, though sunnier, spots; and from habit and early association, is enabled to find subsistence and comfort, where a passing observer might imagine nothing but poverty, hardship, and wretchedness. Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms, And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms ; And as a child, when scaring sounds molest, Clings close and closer to the mother's breast, So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind's roar, But bind him to his native mountains more. Goldsmith. APPENDIX OF HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS. TJie documents, which form the present appendix, have been supplied to me by the kindness of my friend, Mr. Pitman Jones, of Exeter, and have been submitted to a gentleman of ettnbfishal m/li- auarian reputation, well acquainted with the Duchy of Cornwall, who hat obligingly selected and prefaced them with the following valuable and interesting observations. No where are the vestiges of Norman rule more distinctly traceable than in the county and confines of Devonshire. Exeter attempted to maintain against the Conqueror the same independent character which she had asserted against the Saxon sovereign," and the sul- , n . " Angluetegi, len obedience of that antient metropolis and the sur- "^ m ,r " jjjjjjjljj rounding territory required to be insured by at least ten •obregeBdwudc, castles, of a date not long subsequent to the Conquest. «lii"quu rrk.riijus The rivers, which opened an access to the interior of the o^Enu'"' Vit county, were guarded by the fortresses of Exeter, Tot- Lib, i*., tap. -i. ness, Plympton, Trematon, and Barnstaple; while the inland passes and vulnerable points were secured by the castles of Launceston, Okchnmpton, Tiverton, Berry, and Lidford. To the same, or a not much later period, we may perhaps assign castles of which few traces can now be found ; namely, those of Braduinch, Torrington, Bampton, Winkleigh, and Gidleigh. The Domesday Survey is silent as to any of these castles, except Oke- hampton and Trematon ; yet we know, from unexcep- tionable historical evidence, that one at least of the others was erected immediately after the capture of Exeter ; b and their surviving ruins carry intrinsic evi- b •• Locum in- dence of the early date of some of the rest. If *. ■'J™ *** Lidford is named in Domesday, yet it is clear that ^"m" cJtHl.'m nothing but the borough is there noticed. The royal jd.-pi" I Hex castle and manor, with the forest which has been immc- Willelmui.j Ojd. mortally appendant to them, arc no where to be found in that record; nor is this at all surprising. Until the property was granted to a subject in a subsequent reign. PBRAMMJI.AT10N OF DARTMOOR. I li™ |i; tTaidi-obe A it, was id the King's hands, and can have been liable to pay none of those taxes, which, under 1 1 1 ■ hidage, carrucage, &c, were chiefly in view when the survey was made. A tract of land, like Dartmoor, was, under no circumstances, likely to find its way into the enumeration of lands in Domesday, for it is very evident that the land intended to be included in it, and to which alone the description of hides and carrucatet can strictly apply, was land under tillage, or some other form of profitable management, yielding an annual revenue to its owner, and therefore the fit subject of a land-tax. For the same reason the silence of the survey as to tin mines, or their produce, both in Devon and Cornwall, cannot be relied upon as the slightest evidence that they had ceased to be worked. Public records of undoubted authority show that those mines . were in full activity in the twelfth century. 6 c " It is probable, from the first document in this Ap- pendix, that the Forest was occasionally under grant to members of the royal family during the twelfth century, but the first distinct notice of any transfer of the castle, manor, and forest by the crown to a subject, is the grant '■■• by Henry III. d to his brother Richard, the Earl of ' Cornwall, commonly called King of the Romans or of Germany. From that date, the property has been from time to time under grant from the crown; and, since A.D. 1337, has been permanently annexed to the Duchy of Cornwall. It has been justly observed that the technical mean- ing of the term Forest does not necessarily imply that there should be more timber or herbage tli.. sufficient to supply food and shelter for the wild ani- mals that range over it. It is indeed possible that there formerly existed more wood on Dartmoor than is now to be found, and that the tinners, who certainly were allowed to supply themselves with fuel for the fusion of the ore, have laid waste the surface ; but it is more probable that the granitic table-land of the Forest was never covered with anything entitled to the name of timber, and that it was reserved as a mere hunting ground. Nor is it to be assumed that diversion was the main object of these appropriations of land. It is very certain that our ancestors (excluding, of course, those who were obliged to be satisfied with humbler fare,) relied upon their deer-parks, chases, and warn-ns for the supply of their larders ; and that cured * d was an important article of food in royal households. * int parts of i!t« tuuniry la (tic king's iiirdcr. Prefalai «nls, 2& Ed. I., td. 1787. CONTENTS OF HISTORICAL 1HH/1 WIENTS, 257 Yc-t we know (hat the princely owners of Dart- moor have always provided for the contingency of their Eersonal presence in the field. Lyme tone manor was eld by the tenure of furnishing two arrows, and an oaten loaf, to the Lord of Lidford, when lie came to hunt on Dartmoor. The Lord of Kingdon, Shircdon, and Hockneton, was bound to present three arrows on the like occasion, and the Lord of Druscombe held his land by the sergeanty of bearing a bow and three arrows to the King's use when lie hunted on Dartmoor. These tenures arc set forth in the Hundred Rolls, and the record of the Knights' Fees in the Exchequer ;/ / ' Uundrrd. from which we also learn that if the Lord of Dartmoor S" Si £r«* pp ' , , , , , . .... ob, 81, 85, 86. should pursue the chase over t!ic neighbouring waste Tata dc Nnil, p. of Exmoor, there are lands at Uraunton that are bound IW. to drag the Taw or the Torridge to supply the table of the Prince with one of the best salmon that can be found there. Nor is this all : if the Prince should avail himself of the hunting season at Dartmoor to visit his antient castle of Launceston, the lord of the manor of Carbillia will infallibly subject his land to the peril of forfeiture, unless he stations himself at Poulston bridge, ready to receive His royal highness and to pre- sent to him " unam capam griseam," or " de grisauco,'V — g Bujukt's a service the more perilous, inasmuch as he will have e £™{$ J^ £'.,'. to consult the Society of Antiquaries, from whom he boss's Conwatf, will probably only learn that the "capa grisca" may P- 246. mean either a grey mantle or a fur cape, and that the word " grisauco" is not to be found in the glossaries at all. * , * Tie minor U lipLleTcdlobcnow tlio properly of n Let us now turn to the documents in the follow- lady, "ho wm tr- ine Appendix, and shortly notice their contents. limed from tHi ° ,rV *.. .i f ,- F .fii-. i embarrassing clu- ihe conversion of large tracts of land into royally on i nc occn- M the subject of frequent complaint against the aion of the re- early Norman princes, and some relief appears to have f c1 " r " >111 , ,'" i ■ J • a l . r tlt t a n ii/ii her county; (or the been promised in the charters of Henry 1., A.D. 1101, DukeofCnniui.il mid of Stephen A.D. 1136. cu> only win the The Great Charter of John, promulgated A.D. Pj" uc0 ." s , l, '! r kk ,„,_ . . i- if Yi r i- by crossing the Ta. IHlo, contained a promise to disafforest all forests ol „;. ir al [■„"ui s tuii. recent erection, and in that year writs were accordingly issued to the officers of the forest with a view to ascertain and redress the grievances alluded to in this Charter. ' There was however no forest charter, dis- ' So1 - **<■<■ tinct from the Great Charter of liberties, until the ,7 • ,u, " , following reign. In the second year of Henry III., A.D. 1217, we have the first authentic evidence of the promulgation of £58 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. a distinct charter on the subject of the royal forests. The writ is still extant which directs the sheriffs of the different counties of England to summon the knights, who were to choose twelve others to perambulate be- k Rot. Pat., tween the old and new forest lands ; * and the charter 2 Hen. III. itself which had escaped the search of Sir W. Blackstone, I It U prefixed was found in Durham cathedral in 1806. l *» l , h K c *?"* ilion In the ninth year of the same king another charter of the .utute,. rf ^ For ^ ^/^^^ varyin £ om the last, was published, a copy of which is usually prefixed to the common editions of the statutes at large. One of the most important provisions of this charter was to dis- afforest lands which had been converted into forests by Henry II., Richard I., and John. This charter was followed by general perambu- lations, made in all the forest counties, under royal m See Black- commissions or writs,* 1 which were repeated in this ti£*tofh* r G U * ^ ^ le f°Nowing reigns. Charter, pp. 78, The first document in the Appendix is a charter 107, (8?o. edit.) of John Earl of Morton (i.e. Mortain, in Normandy) who was Earl of Cornwall during the life of his brother Richard I. and afterwards became king. It professes to grant certain immunities to free tenants, out of the Regard of the forest, which were in fact little more than mere declarations of their common law righto. The second document contains a copy of a charter by the same person when king. It disafforests all lands in Devonshire except the antient Regards of the forests of Dartmoor and Exmoor, and bears date the 18th May, anno regni 5, (A.D. 1203 or 1204,) eleven or twelve n There were years before the date of Magna Charta. » MaVin^Tjohi^ The tl P* d docum ?nt is an instruction or mandate to the bailiffs of Lidford, probably the governing officers of the borough, to permit the king's tinners, (as indeed at this time all the tinners in Devon and Corn- wall were called,) to take coal, that is, peat, from Dartmoor for the use of the stannary; no doubt for the fusion of the ore. Document No. iv. is a grant by Henry III. to the chaplain of Lidford of the tithe of the herbage of Dartmoor. Tithe is not due of common right from royal forests ; hence the necessity of this special con- cession by which the tithe of agistment was assigned to the church of Lidford. No. v. is a writ (A.D. 1240) from King Henry HI. directing the sheriff of Devon to summon a jury of twelve Knights to determine by perambulation the boundary of the Forest of Dartmoor. The official CONTENTS OF HISTORICAL UiXlMKMs .'■' return to this writ has not been found, but there are several copies extant of various dates, none of which exactly agree. A copy of one of these forms the sixth of the following documents. It will be observed that where the word lineal! ter is used in the perambulation the boundary is not necessarily represented by a straight line, although that construction may possibly be put upon the word. Nor should it be overlooked that, according to the forest law, the object which forms the boundary, if it be a road, river, &c, is wholly iucluded within the franchise of the forest. ° ° See i, Cott Document No. vii. is an interesting ecclesiastical ' p " instrument by which the Bishop of Exeter, A.D. 1260, transferred the villages of Balbeny and Pushy 11 to the parish of Widdecombe from Lidford for the conve- nience of the inhabitants of them. The transfer is only partial. For some purposes they were to remain parcel of the mother parish of Lidford. The arrangement is believed to be still in force. The extract, No. viii. sufficiently explains itself. The original is in Latin, and is much more voluminous. It is an account rendered in 1297 to the Earl of Corn- wall, to whose father the castle, manor, borough and forest had been granted; and the items arc arranged under the heads of Lidford, (i. e. the borough) and its fee-farm rent ; the Manor, including the profits arising from the mill, fairs, toll-tin, stray cattle, &c. ; and the Forest, the profits of which arose at that time from a water-mill, — from mortgable, (probably acknowledg- ments paid for the use of dead wood, found on the moor) — the fines of vills, now called the Venville rents, — pasturage and folding of cattle, — payments made by peat diggers, — agistment of the cattle of outlying tenants, — rents paid by the censers, and the pannage, or feed of pigs. Some of these sources of revenue would seem to indicate the existence of more timber than is now to be seen within the present supjwsed limits of the forest. The Lidford and Dartmoor courts were probably held, as now, together ; and the long list of fines on various law proceedings shows an amount of litigation to which the pacific inhabitants of the moor have happily long been strangers ; though the recent establishment of itinerant county judges may perhaps revive the taste for it. The reader may recognise among the names of litigants or offenders some that are still familiar in the neighbourhood. 860 PERAMBULATION OF I1ARTMOOK, It will be observed that neither this nor any o Dartmoor Account notices the profit accruing to the Earl or the Duchy from the stannaries. The dues paid by tinners working in the demesne land, whether manor or forest, and called toll-tin, are mentioned ; but the far larger revenue, arising from coinage and pre-emption of tin, is not included. There can be no reasonable doubt that the Stannaries of Devon were more produc- tive than those of Cornwall in the twelfth century ; for the fixed sum paid to the bishops of Exeter, tor the last seven centuries and a half, as the tithe of the Royal- ty, or farm of tin, is greater for Devon than for Cornwall. In Devon, too, as in Cornwall, four courts have immp- morially settled all ordinary suits and quarrels in which tinners arc parties ; and the records of their proct ings, still extant in great abundance from the reigr Edward III., bear witness to an enormous amoun petty litigation, which, for some centuries, yielded ti Crown, the Prince, or their officers, an income b^ means contemptible. The scene of these mining opera- tions was the moor and its confines ; for although the warden and stewards of the stannaries claimed I " Devon as stannary- ground, and Exeter itself not secure the defendant from an involuntary v' Lidford Castle under the escort of a tin bailiff, : certain as any geological fact can be, that Dartmoor alone has hitherto been the centre and source of all the tin stream-works in the county. The authentic annals of the tin revenues must be sought for, not in the Dart- moor rentals, but in the coinage rolls; a series quite distinct from the rentals or bailiiPs accounts of Lidford or Dartmoor Forest. The charter No. ix. contains a grant by the king, in 1466, to the tinners of Cornwall, of the liberty of taking peat on Dartmoor for melting their tin. l"hc recital shows that at this date the timber or fuel in Cornwall had been so much destroyed, that there no longer existed in that county sufficient materials fur supplying the furnaces of the blowing houses. Article No. x. is a copious analysis of an account rendered by the reeves and foresters of Lidford and Dartmoor in the reign of Henry VII. In thu docu- ment all the heads in the former account, ■Imci] referred to, are repeated with greater detail and men instructive particularity. The old division of the forest into four quarters, or bailiwicks, is here distinct!) apparent This article is followed by some extracts, No. i which roceed- eign of junt of i jo the > by no opera- jgh the imed all m )artiuoor oomnn w kistokicai docuhekts, from court roils, relating to tin:' fV>rest. Tiny appear io be selected from the rolls of the leet or law court of the forest, &c, and chiefly concern offences committed by encroaching on the forest or venville commons, neglecting to repair fences, and other delinquencies. No. xii. is a presentment or finding by a jury summoned in 1609 to inquire respecting the bounda- ries of the forest, and other matters relating to Dartmoor. The open commons in the parishes and places adjoining the forest are here called " the Commons of Devonshire." It is believed that they are not now familiarly known by thai name, though it was certainly long in use, both before and since this presentment. No. xiii. is a survey, or part of a survey, of the caitle ;in lie «:ptember [20 of August] 1260. Folio 16, A. Exivit littcra univcrsis &c. Episcopus &c. Fide dignorum assertione intelligences quod qiiidaui parocbiani ecclesie de Lideford villulas que dicuntui Balbenye et I'ushyll inbabitantcs adeo distant ab eorum ecclesia matrice predicta, quod cum pre nimia distantia nulls modo visitare possunt quocies eis fuerit opportunum, dilecto filio officiali archidiaconi Totton nostris litteris dedimus in mandatis, ut facta inquisitione solemni in pleno capitulo ejusdem loci, nos litcratorie reddct certiores, an homines predict! ad crcctionem sufficerint oratorii ; item que parochialis ecclesia villulis ipsis vicinior existat; necnon iidem homines sine prejudicio juris alieni audire divina ct ecclesiastic a percipere valeant sacramenta ; et quanta eedem villule distant a matrice ecclesia predicta ; et si tempestatibus et inundationibus aquarum exortis, parochianis ipsis mairiccm ireW.^kim predictam visitare volen- ti bus via longior debcatur. Cumque per certificationem officialia memo- rati invenerimus, quod incolis ipsis ad const rue tioncm oratorii minime nuilicientibus, parochialis ecclesia de Wydecombe Wis ipsis plus aliis omnibus est vicina, et quod loca predicta a matrice ecclesia de Lideford sereno tempore per octa, et tempestatibus exortis in circuitu per quindecim, distant miliaria; salutem animarum sicut non debemus negligcre ulla ration e voleutes, ecclesiarum ipsarum rectores ad nos tram lecimus presentiam evocari: rectoribus igitur prcdictis coram nobis constitutis, et exposito eisdem hujusccmodi pcriculo, ac de ex- presso consensu utriusque ecclesie patronorum, ordinationi nostre se supponentibus, prom ittentib usque bona fide voluntati nostre parere in hac parte ac nostram ordinationenT'pre dictam observaie in perpotuum, de consilio prudentium virorutn nobis assistentium tauter ordinavimus, videlicet, quod predictorum et adjacentium locorum incolis sic in unitate sue parochialis ecclesie do Lideford perpetuo remanentibus, in ecclesia de Wydecombe imposterum divina audiant ct omnia in vita et morte ecclesiastics percipiant sacramenta. In coopertura et fabrica ecclesie tie Wydecombe, clausura cemctcrii, subsidio luminarium et deferendo pane benedicto cum ipsis ecclesie parochialis contribuant: consuetudincs ipsius ecclesie in visit ationibua infirmorum, benedict- ionibus nubentium, in ptirgationibus post partum, in baptismatibus Sarvulorum, in mortuariis et sepultuiis morientium observent : 'iferant quoque ibidem solemnitcr tcr in anno et decimam nihil- ominus agnorum eidem esclesic cum intcgritate persolvant. In signum vero subjectionia et agnitionem juris parochialis, quilibet incola dic- toruni locorum terram tenens semel in anno, videlicet die sancti Petroci, in ecclesia de Lideford solemnitcr offerat et omnes deciraas et obven- tiones majores et miuores, hiis duntaxat exceptis que supcrius enun- ciantur, matrici ecclesie sue de Lideford sine qualibet diminutioue et contradictione persolvant. In cujns, &c. 268 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. No. VIII. Extract from an account rendered by the ministers of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, 25 Edw. I, A.B. 1296-7. Lydford. Rents of Assize. — The same (accountant) renders account of 50s. 5^d. of assized rent this year. Sum £2. 10s. 5£d. Issues of the Manor. — The same renders account of 30s. for a water-mill let to farm ; of 3s. 5£d. for toll of the fairs this year ; of toll of tin a on the waste of Lydeford nil that year ; of 12s. 9d. from amercements of the borough this year; of 21s. from stray colts and bullocks this year ; of 2s. 2d. from censarii for having liberty. b Sum £3. 9s. 4Jd. Fines. — The same renders account of 6s. 8d. from Richard Smith of Lydeford for iron carried away from the Earl's castle. Sum 6s. 8d. Sum total £6. 6s. 5f d. Dertemore. Rents of Assize. — The same renders account of 75s. of assized rent per annum. Sum £3. 15s. Od. Issues of the Forest. — The same renders account of 33s. 4d. from the farm of a water-mill there this year; of 14s. 6d. from mortgable c ; of £4. Is. 8d. from the fines of vills rf for having pas- ture for their cattle ; of 15s. lOd. from 96 folds this year, viz. from each fold 2d. ; of lis. 3d. from 27 colliers e this year, viz. from each collier 5d. ; of 15s. 6£d. from 2442 cattle agisted and tended by the shepherds of the Lord Earl there this year, viz. for each head of cattle ljd. ; of 33s. 3d. from 399 cattle at farm near Okehampton this year ; of 8s. for the farm of the said cattle as demised by the bailiff this year; of £15. 17s. 7Jd. from 2141 cattle returning to fold/ this year, viz. from each head of cattle 1 Jd. ; of £4. 14s. from 487 horses feeding there this year, viz. for each horse 2d. ; of 3s. from 36 folds of Lydeforde and Waterfalle near Lydeforde this year ; of 8d. from the rent of censarii for having the advowson 9 ; of 2s. 3d. from pannage of pigs this year. Sum £45. 3s. Id. a In original " tollon' stagm,' " i.e. tolloneum or tollnetum stagminis. b " De cells' pro libertale habenda." Whether this was a census paid for enjoying certain immunities or privileges) or was a capitage paid in respect of exemption from per- sonal servitude, is not clear ; — a class of tenants was always called censers, or censarii, and are still named in some of the drift warrants. c " De mortuo gabulo," called mortgable or more-gable in later records, probably payments for dead wood. d " De finibus villarum." t " De carbonariis," explained in later accounts to mean diggers of turf or peat for fuel. / Averiis redeuntibus ad faldam. g It should seem that at this time the advowson of Lidford parish was on farm to certain tenants paying census or rent. HISTORICAL DOCVMEKTS. sea 'erqutsttes [of Courts.] — The same renders account of 2s. 6d. from Richard Rys and three others* for trespass; of 18s. from William Batoshelle and two others for the same ; of 2s. from William rector of Beleston and two others for default and trespass ; of 12d. from the same William for false claim ; of 12d. from Ralph de Combe for having had his dog in the forest in fence time;' of 12d. from Antonine Martin for horses not entered in writing;-' of 12d. from Antony de Foddreford for oxen not entered; of 12d. from Richard of the same place for like cause; of 12d. from the parson of Beleston for the like ; of 12d. from Jordan de Lukcsmore because he, whom he vouched to warranty, was not forthcoming;* of 2s. from John Lnccok and three others for cattle not entered; of 12d. from William parson of Beleston for oxen not entered; of 5d. from John Waghe- berd and six others for divers trespasses ; of 2a. 2d. from John Attewode for the same ; of 2s. 5d. from John Adam and five others for the same ; of 4s. from Michael Cole and three others for the same ; of 12d. from John de la Torre for foolish delivery; of 12d. from William the Carpenter for cattle not entered ; of 2s. from John de la Torre for trespass ; of Gs. from Joel Kyr and three others for trespass in the wood ; of 2s. from Geoffry de la Woghcbye for concealment ; f of 6s. 8d. from Elyas de Cristenestowe because he was found in the forest in fence time ; of 3a. 9d. for the heriot of Richard le Sopcre ; of Gs. 8d. from the same Richard for ingress ; m of 2s. of William Lutereford and another for trespass; of 2s. from Henry de la Hurne for many defaults; of 2s. from the same Henry for foolish delivery of cattle;" of 6s. 8d. from Richard le Syneger and two others for ingress ; of 6s. 8d. from Richard le Yunglyng for ingress ; of 3s. 9d. from the same parties for reliefs; of 5s. from Henry Penystrang and Adam de Cadetun for trespass ; of 2s. from William de Hevytru for contempt ; of 2s. from Robert Atteheved for twenty oxen not en- tered ; of 5s. from Roger Repe and nine others for horses and cattle not entered ; of 6s. 8d. from William Attewelle for cattle not entered. Sum 102s. 5d. Sum total £5-4 0a. 6d. Allowances. — The same accounts in tithe paid to the parson of Lydeford 60s. ; in the stipends and " poutura" ° of the foresters per annum 42s. ; in their expences in fence month 22s. ; in peutura of * '• Ric. Rys ct trihus sociis suis." In the«e i< defendants. i " In tempore prohibito." J " Pro equis Don scriptis." The usage has always been lo enter cattle in (he books of the clerk of the forest before they are tumid on the forest, k " Quia Hon habiiil quam vocavit ad wurranliam." / That is for not presenting oflences at the lord's court, m " Fro ingressu," i.e. for admittance on alienation or descent to • customary lenc- * " Pro film deliberationo iveriorum," meaning, possibly, an amerciament for tymenl. ii drink provided for l lie shepherds, also spelt " ptutura." 2 H 270 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. twelve shepherds tending the agisted cattle from the Feast of the Invention of the Holy Cross (Srd May) till the Assumption (15 Aug.) 52s. 6d. ; in stipends of the same 24s. Sum £9 18s. 6d. Debet (or clear balance) £44 2s. Od. No. IX. Extract from patent roll, 5 Edw. IV., containing an additional grant to the tinners of Cornwall of turbary and pasturage in Dartmore Forest. [After reciting that the moors and woods of the county of Cornwall had been so much wasted, that fuel for melting tin could not be obtained in sufficient quantities, or at reasonable prices, and that the coinage had consequently fallen off three hundred marks and more, the King proceeds to grant, for himself and his successors, to the tinners for the time being now or hereafter] Quod ipsi et servientes sui infra forestam nostram de Dartemore in Comitatu Devon ad libitum suum ingredi et intrare et turbas in eadem foresta in quocumque loco sibi placuerit fodere et succindere, et carbones inde facere, et eos sic factos abinde in comitatu Cornubie ad hujus- modi stannum suum ibidem fundendum in carrettis sive summagiis vel aliter ad libitum suum, tociens quociens eis placuerit, cariare, abducere et asportare valeant licite et impune absque impeticione * * * * unacum pastura ad animalia sua in eadem foresta pascendum tempore cariationis, abductionis et asportationis hujusmodi ibidem existentis: proviso semper quod stannatores predict! solvant pro hujusmodi turbis fodiendis et succidendis et pastura prout stannatores, sive aliquae alia? persona? forestam predictam in casu consimili occu- pantes, solverunt et solvere solebant, et non aliter nee alio modo in futuro. T. 7 Feb. [A.D. 1466.] Printed in the Case of " Vice against Thomas," Append., page 30. No. X. Abstract of Minister's accounts rendered anno regni regis Henrici Septimi 18vo., 1502-3. { Translated from the original in the Aug- mentation Office.) Lydeford Borough. — Account of the Reeve there. Rents of Assize. — Of free tenants (i.e. freeholders) 32s. lid. From lands and tenements without the borough 25s. Id. A customary payment called " Foldepeny," pay- able at Michaelmas 2s. IIIMiHMiAI. jiix:i;mknts. 271 Increased rent for the pasture round the castle as contained in the court roll, 23 Edw. III., 1346 12d. Farm of the Mill 22s. Issues of Fairs. — From the fair on the feast of St. Petrock and St. Bartholomew, Apostle, nil. this year. In the reign of Edw. III. it produced .... I3s. lid. Perquisites of Courts. — Pleas and perquisites of courts this year 18d. as appears hy the court rolls. Sum total of receipts £4 2s. Cd. Out of which was paid to the Rector of the church for tithe of agistment there and throughout the Forest of Dartmore £3 Os. Od. Clear receipts £1 2s. 6d. Lydepord Manor. — Account of the Reeve. Rents of Assize £7 15s. 5£d. New Kent of John Peccombe 9d. New rent of the hamlet of William dc Bihraugh and Richard Drum for two acres of waste inclosed 3d. Similar new rents of small portions of land de- mised, chiefly at will, by court roll in the following places: — in Wellbrokeland, Dun- briggeford (for life), Pillar des well, Ledtorre, Leddercombe, Shirbonescrofte, Driablake, Shirlyng, Ordehall, Brodemede, Pollardes- wallen', Redegripp', Deri, Bromehill. Farm of the Mill. — Demised to the whole homage . . 20s. Gable Rent (redditus gabuli.) — For the custom called " More gabuli" payable at Faster and Michaelmas 13s. 4d. For a parcel of land in the waste of the lord of Polleshill 4d. Perquisites of Courts. — None here, because the forester of Fast [Quarter] lias accounted for them ; nor is there any account rendered here of moneys arising from censar' [censaria?] of certain men dwelling within the precinct of the Lordship, because the same forester has accounted for them in the court roll of the East [Quarter.] Sum total £9 15s. Id. Est. — Account of the Forester there (that is, of the East Quarter.) Arrears 2d. Foreign Ri-nls. — For rent called " Fines Villarum " E£b. lid. per annum payable at the feast of St. John the Baptist, that is to say, The vill (vUlata) of Chagford Is. Od. 272 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. 8. d. The hamlet of Tenkenhamhorne 4 The vill of Hereston 1 8 The vill of Litterford, in the parish of North Bovey 4 The hamlet of Hokyn, the same 4 The hamlet of Kyndon 1 The hamlet of North Werthiehed, in the parish of Whitecole [Widdecombe T\ 4 J Another hamlet in the same parish [not named] . . 3 The vill of Shirwyll, in the same 8 The hamlet of North Catrowe, in the same .... 1 6 The vill of Higher Catrowe, in the same 3 7 The vill of Grendon, in the same 1 The vill of Fenne, in the parish of Chagford . . 4£ The vill of Jurston, [Jesson ?] the same 8 The vill of Willuhede, the same 5 The vill of Edworthie 6 The vill of Higher Jurston 3 The vill of Chalnecombe, in the parish of Manaton 6 New Rents. — New rent of two acres of moorland in the forest of the Lord at Childrest, as demised to Lawrence Hanneworthy to hold in the name of Launde-bote according to the custom of the forest, as appears in the court roll, 9 Hen. VI. (1430-1) 3d. (Then follows a series of similar new-takes in the forest, chiefly of single acres ; among them is the following.) The new rent of 3d. from John Wille, of Hille, for the water-course of the Teynge within the forest beyond the land of the forest, and at the end of the lane, to the mill of the said John at Southill within the parish of Chagford, to have to him, and his heirs according to the custom of the forest, rendering yearly 7d. as appears in the court roll* 11 Henry VII. (1495-6.) Agistment within the Forest. — For agistment of 1785 beasts agisted in this bailiwick going to fold with- £ 8. d. out the forest,? viz. from each head Id 11 15 7$ For agistment of two heifers at 2d. a head 4 Customary payment of 5d. a head For 36 Colliers digging turves to make coal for sale 15 For agistment of 60 sheep at |qr. a pair? 1 10J p In older records the words stand thus : — " agistamentam averiomm agistatornm infra forestam euntium ad faldom extra forestam in eadem balliva, et averiomm agista- tornm in eadem balliva euntium ad faldom infra forestam." Compot. 29 Edw. III. y 7£d. per score in modern presentments. HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS. 273 For attachment of 39 men trespassing with their cattle witluu the bailiwick, from each 3d., by custom, as shown by a bill of record in the £ s. d. 9 9 Issues of the Manor. — " Censar " of 22 men dwelling within the forest of Dartmore for having the liberty of it, scilicet, from each 2d. by ancient custom r . . 3 4 Perquisites of Courts. — Pleas and perquisites of two courts leet, and eleven other courts, this year, 3 2 8 Sum total £18 15 H Deductiotis. Fees and Wages. — Stipends of two foresters ; of a " prffihurdarius " • to keep the cattle at the prey [pra?da] of Dunnabridge ; of the clerk writing down the particulars of cattle agisted on the moor, and assisting the foresters at the said drift over the whole moor on divers occasions. This part of the account is closed by parti- culars of money paid over to the proper officer of the Duchy, and of fines respited. West. — Account of the forester there (i.e. of the West Quarter.) £ s. d. 11 u* The vill of Brighteworth in the parish of Mewe » 7 2 2 3 2 The vill of Denccumbe, in the parish of Walk- 1 6 The parish of Ssmpford Spanley [Spiney] .... 1 1 5 5 The vill of Twyste, in the parish of Tavistoke . . 3 The vill of Margaret Land, in the same parish . , 2 The new rent of one acre of land within the forest, near Plympstappess, 6 b leased by court roll, 12 May, 14 Henry VII u r Tb» perhaps eiplaina the Lydeford account 25 Edward I. ante. N .riii. Im early account* this census is treated ad a capitation tax on residents, no having land of the lord. m This seems to ha the person now called the prior, Le. chief herdsman. ( The name of the rills vary in some of the records. ■ Sbtiiigh. a Heavy. "■ Goodameary. j' Heavy. y SWpstor : i Petertavy. no Cndliptown ? hb Plynuttpa. 274 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Agistment within the Forest — For the agistment of 999 cattle agisted within the bailiwick, going from the fold without the forest, &c. [Then follows a series of entries like those of the East Quarter, and under the same heads, differing only in the number of colliers or cattle.] Perquisites of Courts. — Similar to those in the East Quarter. Sum £9 12 2 Deductions for wages of Foresters and €€ Prae- hurdarius," and for payments, as in the East Quarter. South. — Account of the forester of the South Quarter. Foreign Rents. — For rent certain called fines of vills, that is to say 1 16 The vill of Helle 18 The hamlet of Stouton, in Buckfastlegh parish . . 17 The vill of Skyridon,«« in the parish of JDene . . 7 The vill of Ugbirough 5 New Rents. — Under this head are various new grants of small customary tenements as in the East Quarter. Agistment within the Forest.— Agistment of 1830 beasts going from fold without the forest 11 8 9 [Under this head are other entries like those in the East and West Quarters.] Perquisites of Courts 3 15 10 Sum total £17 8 lOf Deductions and payments follow, as in the other Quarters : at the foot of the account occurs the following entry of some importance as regards the commons adjacent to the forest, formerly known as the Commons of Devon. €€ Afterwards he (the forester) is charged with l^d. being new rent of Thomas Rawe, John Beare and others for one acre of land on the common of Devon, lying neare to Yerme between Erme Found and Quyocke Bemefote,<*<* to hold to them according to the custom of the forest of Dartmore, as appears by the court roll there of 16 Henry VII., and with l£d. of new rent of Thomas Hanne- worthie, John Cole and others for one acre of land on the common of Devon, lying in the east part ce Scyredon or Shiredon. dd Quickbeamfoot HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS. of the Erme between Hortelake and Whitcpytte, to hold to them according to the custom of the manor and forest, as appears by the court roll •foresaid." North. — Account of the forester there (i.e. of the North Quarter.) Foreign Rents. — 22s. lOJd. for fines of villa, viz, — The vill of Throulegh £0 2 6 The vill of Collerowc, in the parish of Chagford 7| The parish of South Tawton 7 4J The vill of Sele " 6j The parish of Bclston 3 The vill of Hallestoke 2 6 The parish of Sourton 4J The parish of Briddestowe 2 The vill of Willesworth 2 Agistment within the Forest. — Agistment of 1397 beasts going from the fold witlrin the forest 8 18 7J (The other entries are similar to those in the other quarters.) Perquisites of Courts 1 15 8 Sum total £18 14 0J The deductions are as in the preceding Accounts. Sundry miscellaneous extracts from Court Rolls of the Manor of Lidford and Forest of Dartmore. West Dartmore. — Law Court of the Manor and Forest held on Monday next before the Feast of St. Luke, 8 Edw. IV., 1468. The Bailiffs are amerced for default in not distraining Reginald Cole and others to answer to the Lord the King for enclosing, em- parking, and appropriating two hundred acres of land of the com- mon pasture of Devon at Sodilburghill and Dastamehilt, between the rivers Erme and Aune, to the great damage, &c. Walter Bradmore amerced for entering on the King's moor without license and digging for turves and coal for eight years last past, and selling the same aud carrying it off from the moor to places without Venville. Bailiffs amerced for not distraining Thomas Thurusldon to answer for keeping eight beasts on the forest and common of Devon for seven years without license, &c. tt South Zenl. Ltfbcrf, 18 EAr. l\\ 1479. L aaff, tor permitting ac Scatemmv^eaileal Abhors Gate, to be nmoas, ec- amerced jmnMimgly. aH the ralb fcr not keeping forever the them in the comon of ■, contray to the to the prejadice of die Wat LHP**.— Law C*m of the Vaar ai Forest, 16 May, L,ltiM. ^ar wax Iiii'hirii Rarhanfa fcr cutting tarres in the fcr one fwhahtttng ant of YeariiBe, against the custom and to destrnctm of the land of the forest : He b fined Is. 6d. *1 Sepc, 6 Janes L, 1606. of the inhabitants of Wa|wworthie fcr permitting Wapsworthie hedge, near the forest, to be m decay: — also of carers not inhabiting within YeamOr, fcr ih laatiniiir sheep in the Xo_XIL The Pre$aUmemi of Ae Jury «r a Shmw O&mrtfr He Fores* mf Drtmort, A J). 1609. At a courte of Surrey holden at Okhampton in die countie of Devon the xrith daye of August in the sixth yexe of the raigne of oar most grarJons Sor'raigne Lord James by the grace of God of England France and Ireland Kinge Defender of the myth &c and of Scotland the forty second, before Sr. Willm. Strode Knight, Richard Connocke Esquire Auditor of the Dntchie of Cornwall, Kobe Moore Esquire and Kobe Paddon Gent., Commissioners by virtue of a commission from his said Ma^ to them and others directed bearing date the daye of in die flrrth yere of his said Ma 1 ***- most happie Kaigne concerninge the SurTey of direr* honors castles mannors messuages lands tenem*** ffor es te s chases parks and other promts belonging to the said Dutchie of Cornwall as by the same Com'ission under the great seale of England more at lardge doth and maye appere ; The jurors then and ther retouroed scil 1 - Edward Skirrett, Walter Hele, Roger Cole, Henrie Burges, Richard Edmond, Gregory Gaye, John Bickford, Hugh Elfbrd, John Masye, Roger Drake, Walter Lillicrappe, John Chubbe, Stephen ff Stafldoo b cl wtt n lac Emc and lac HISTORICAL Hill IMKMS. Taverner, Andrew Haywood, Roger Wickett, Will™- Searcll, Rob L - Hannaford,Jt>lui Wille- what beastes and at what tymes and and what other com'odities the same p sun - and psuns. may ■nullie have and take w<"- in the said fforest and niaunor of Lidford and what profh'ts and com'odities doe from them yerclie come unto his ma'i e - and to the Lord Prince for the same — And lykewyse what other landea and teneni 18 - royalties rightes estrayes and proflitts do belonge unto his said ma 1 ' 8 - and Lord Prince lyinge adjoininge and nere to the said Forrest and what right title or occupacon ante p so "- or p»°u*. do clayme or ought to have of and in the same and what yerelie proffitts do arrise and growe out of the said landes and lyke- wyse what offences trespasses and misdemeanures are com'itled and donnc w'l>- in the said Forrest and lands and by whom: The said jurors nppon good testymonie showed then: witnesses sworne, and uppon their own knowledges do p'sent upon the'r oathes as followeth: FFIRST they p'sent that the bounds of the f forest of Dartmoore as they the said jurors do fynde partlie by the coppies of auncient recordes pilie. uppon the evidence of other p'sons and partite uppon their owne knowledge but espceiallie as the boundes have beene and arc used and accustomed to be these as follows. — Beginning at a high hill ging in the north quarter of the said fforest called at this day osdon, al's Cosson, and in the old records written Hoga de Costdonne and from thence lincallie eastward by estimacon one mile or more unto little houndetorr web- in the said records is called (hoga de parva houndetorr) and from thence lincallie to a place named in the said records Thurleston, now as they suppose called "Waterdontorr being about three quarters of a myle from Houndtorr aforesaid, and from thence near a myle to Wotesbrookelake foote w cl '- falleth into Teyngc and w(^ lake they thincke to be the same w«l>- is now called Whoodelake, att w cb - place they accompt the ?«orth Quarter to end; and from thence nere one mile to Hingeston, al's Highstone, in the I I'V lyinge near ffernwurthie hedges, and from thence lineallie nere one mile to Yestou, al's Geston, now com'onlie called Hethstone, and from thence lineallie thorough a fennye place now called Turfehill, but named in the old records per mediam turbariam de Albereeheved, to a place called Kinge's Oven and in the said record namely Furnuni Regis, and from thence to Wallebrookeheade and so alonge by Walle- until it fall into caster Dart and so downwards by the said easter Dart to another Dart called wester Dart and from thence ascendinge by the said west Dart uoto Wobrooke foote wher the east quarter endeth ; and from thence liny all ie ascendinge to Drylake, al's Drye- Woorke, and from thenee ascendinge by Drylake unto Crefeild il'ord or Dryefeild ford and from thence to Knattleburroughe, w«!>. they take to be the same that is called in the old records (iuatteshill, and 278 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. so from thence descending linyallie to Wester Wellebrooke headd and so by the same Wester Wellebrooke untill it falleth into Owne, aTs Aven, and from thence linyallie to Easter Whitaburrowe and from thence liniallie to Redlake foote whir it falleth into Erme, and from thence liniallie ascendinge unto Arme headd, w cn - they take to be a place named in the said records Grimsgrove ; and from thence to Plimheadd, where the South quarter endeth ; and from thence linyallie to Elisboroughe and from thence linyallie to Seaward's Crosse and from thence linyallie to little Hisworthie and so from thence linyallie to another Hisworthie and so from thence linyallie through the midst of Mistorr moore to a rocke called Mistorrpan, and from thence linyallie to Dedlakeheadd w^*. they thincke to be the next bound w^ is called in the old records Meuborough, and from thence linyallie northwardes to Luntesborowe, w ch - they thincke to be the same that is called in the records Lullingesete, and from thence linyallie to Wester Redlake between w ch - said two bounds the wester quarter endeth; and from thence northward to Rattlebrooke foote and soe from thence to the headd of the same Rattlebrooke, and so from thence linyallie unto Steinegtorr 99 and from thence linyallie to Langaford, al's Sandyford, and so from thence linyallie to the ford w* 50 - lyeth in the east syde of the chappie hh of Halstocke and so from thence linyallye unto the said hill called Cosdon, al's Cosson, wher they did begin. 2. It m - they do also p'aent that the 6oyle of dyvers moores, com'ons, and wastes, lyinge for the most parte aboute the same forrest of Dartmoore and usuallie called by the name of the Common of Devonsheere, is parcell of the Dutchie of Cornwall, and that the fibsters and other officers of his ma lie - and his progenitors Kinges and Queens of England have alwayes accustomed to drive tne said commons and wast growndes and all the commons, moores and waste of other men (lyinge in lyke manner about the said fforest) home to the come hedges and leape yeates rounde aboute the same Common and fforest, some few places onlie exempted, and that the said ffosters and officers have taken and gathered to his male's, use at the tymes of dryft within the same commons such proffitts and other duties as they have and ought to do within the said fforest ; how be it they intend not herebye to prejudice the particular rightes w« h - anie persons do clayme for themselves or their ten'nts in anie commons or sev'all growndes in or adjoyninge to the said common or fforest, but do leave the same to judgment of the lawe and to the justnesse of their tytles w cn - they make to the same. 3. It m - more they do present that all the Kinge's ten'nts w^- are Venvill have accustomed and used to have and take tyme out of minde in and uppon the forrest of Dartmoore all thinges that maye doe them good, savinge vert (w ch - they take to be greene oke) and gg Sic in orig. h h This chapel is in the parish of Okehampton, and is dedicated to St Michael. nisToiticAL documents. 279 . payinge for the same their VenviJJ rents and other dues as hath bene tyme out of mynde accustomed, and doinge their suits and services to his ma l '«- courtes of the mannor and forrest of Dartiuoore aforesaid, and also exceptinge night rest, for the wch. everie one of them have of longe tyme out of mynde yerelie payde or ought to pave iiW> commonlye called a grasewait, and also to have and take tyme out of mynde common of pasture for all manner their beastes, shepe, and cattle in and uppon all the moores, wastes, and com'ons, usuallie called the Common of Devonshere, and also turves, vagges, heath, stone, cole and other thioges according to their custombes, payinge nothinge for " but the renttes dues and services aforesaid, neverthelesse their meanings is that the Venvill men ought not to turne or put into the said fforrest or common at anie tyme or tymea anie more or other beastes and cattell then they can or mayc usuallie winter in and uppon their tenements and growndes lyinge within Venvill. ■J. It m - further they p'sent that no stranger ought to turne or put to pasture into the said forrest of Dartmoor anie sheepe or pigges, and that such strangers as have donne so have been usuallie presented at Lidford for the same, and that the owners of such pigges as have subverted and spoyled the soyle of the said forest are often presented for the same at Lidford and so are to be fyned by the steward there. And as touchinge the dryftes made yerelie in the said fibres t and commons adjoymnge for his Ma ll *> they referre it to the forrest men being also tcn'nts of the forrest and manor aforcBaid w**- have presented the same, w tu ' the orders and custombes thereof. 5. It" 1 - they do present that one Edward Ashe in the sommer tyme 1607 was at Sampford within venvill (by his ownc confes- sion) at the rowsinge of a stagge and was at huntinge of the same dere with houndes till he was kild about Blanchdou, w 1 *' was not lawful to be doune without license. 6. It" 1 - further also they do present that Will" 1 - Chastie (by his owae confe*svon) kild a Btagge w">- a pecc or gun nere a month since about Blacktorrebeare (wca. j 5 part in the fforest of Dartmoore and part in Venvill) and that he did it for S r - Thomas Wys * • • • and delivered the same to the said S r - Thomas at his house at Siduham, at w el1 - tyme he told him that lie had kild the same dere in the fforest. 7. It 1 "- also they present that all the wast growndes, moores and commons w=l>. have bene heretofore claymed by the auncesters of Gamaliel Slanninge Esquire and arc scituate lyinge in the west parte of the boundes aforesaid, that is to saye, from Elisboroughe unto Seaward's Crosse from thence to little Hisworthie, from thence to great Hisworthie and from thence to Mistorpan and from thence extendinge towards theauncient corneditches, are parcell of the Dutchie of Cornwall ; without w cl1 - auncyent corne ditches, that is to saie to- wards the ibrrest, the auncestors of' the said Gamaliel Slanninge have caused to be erected certayne bowses and have enclosed some parcells of the said wast grownde, and that he or his tenants do now use and occupie the same to his or their owne use ; the whole contayningc 280 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. by estimacion ten thowgand acres as it is specyfied in the exem- plificacion of a judgm*- geven against Nicholas Slanninge Esquire ancestor of the said Gamaliel for the same wastes and moores in the ixth. yere of the raigne of Quene Elizabeth. [From a copy certified by the keeper of records at the Duchy of Cornwall Office.] No. XIII. Extract from the Parliamentary Survey of the Borough of Lidford, made 27 August, 1650. A Survey of the Borough of Lidford with the rights mem- bers and appurt 8 - situate lying and being in the Co. of Devon part of the Duchy there and parcell of the possessions of Charles Stewart late Duke of Cornwall but now settled in trustees for the use of the Commonwealth held as of the manor of East Grenwich in free and common Soccage by Fealty only — taken by Edward Hore, -George Crompton, George Gentleman, Gabriel Taylor and George Goodman and by them returned the 27 Day of August 1650. Lidford Castle. The said castle is very much in decay and almost totally ruined. The walls are built of lime and stone within the compass of which wall there is four little roomes whereof to are above stairs the flore of which is all broken divers of the chiefest beames being fallen to the ground and all the rest is following, only the roof of the said castle (being lately repaired by the Prince and covered with lead) is more substantial than the other parts. The scite of the said castle with the ditches and courte contain half an acre of land of which the Borough of Lidford holdeth the court at the will of the Lord for which they pay the yearly rent of twelve pence. The said scite is valued to be worth at an improve- ment besides the aforesaid rent per ann. 5s. The stones about the castle are not worth the taking down, but there are divers parcels of old timber which we value to be worth de claro 6£. There is one part of the tower leaded containing 1445 square feet, every foot containeth (by weight) nine pounds in all thirteen thousand eight hundred and ninety five pounds which at a penny halfpenny a pound cometh to eighty six pounds sixteen shillings and tenpence halfpenny, but consideration being had to the taking it down and the portage, we reprise, six pounds sixteene shillings tenpence halfpenny, so then it amounteth to, de claro, £80 HISTORICAL UIICLMI.N I'S. 881 Rents of Asshe. — The Quit Rents or Rents of Assize of the said Borough doe amonte to yearly the sum of £3 r 1 : 4 part of which said rents (viz. 3£j is paid to the Rector of the Parish of Lidford in lieu of all the tithes of the Forest of Dartmoor* so yi. ye. cleare rent accruing to the Lord amounteth to the yearly rent of one shilling and four pence l 8 : 4. Rett I of the Fairs. — The said Burrough doth pay to the Lord for the (aire that is yearly held there viz. at the Feast of St. Bar- tholomew, the sum of one shilling and six pence per ann. 1* : 6. Ale Rent. — There is also paid by the said Burrough for Ale waigbts the sum of twelve pence per annum I s . So that the whole rent which the said Borough payeth to the Lord, with the one shilling for the Castle grecne, amounteth to per annum £0 4s. lOd. [From a copy certified by the Keeper of Records at the Duchy Office.] No. XIV. Terrier of the Parish of Lidford, A.D., 1727. The Inhabitants within the manor of Lidford pay their Tithe Lambs and all the Surplice Fees and Mortuaries to the Vicar of Withycombc. All their other Tithe is due and payable in kind to the Rector of Lidford excepting the Tithe herbage of barren cattle kept and depastured in the reputed forest or waste of Dartmoor for which the sum of three pounds is yearly paid at Michaelmas to the said Rector out of the Prince's high rents issuing out of the Borough of Lidford. 4. May 1727. Thomas Bdrnafobu, Rector Stephen Maddaford, Churchwarden Valentine Pliillips, Side man. (Extracted from the Episcopal Registry Exeter.) " Ordres and decres set doicne anno 10 JJenrici VII. for the Tijiaif Workes," A.D. 1494. [from a record in the Treasury of the Exchei/utr] Ad magnam curiam Stannarionim tentam apud Crockerntor undecimo die mensis Septembris anno Regni metuendissimi Domini nostri regis Henrici septimi decimo coram magistro Johanne Arundell, clerico, prepotcntissimi principis domini Arthuri Chris- tian tissimi Regis predicti priniogeniti Principis W alii a: Ducis 282 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Cornubiae, Comitis Cestri et Flynt, cancellario, Magistro Roberto Frost elemosinario, Willielmo Uvedale milite, cameras ejusdem Prin- cipis Thesaurario, magistro Hugone Oldom, clerico, et sociis suis com- missionariis dicti Frincipis in Comitatu Devoniae deputatis ac coram Johanne Sapcote milite, deputato custodis sive gardiani Stannariorum in comitatu predicto. Quaedam actus, statuta, et ordinaciones pro bono commodo, utilitate, et tranquillitate Stannariorum in Comitatu Devoniae predicto per viginti quatuor Juratores de Chaggeford, viginti quatuor Juratores de Aysshperton, viginti quatuor Juratores de Tavistock, et viginti quatuor Juratores de Plympton, quorum nomina, unacum dictis actibus, statutis et ordinationibus, inferius inscribuntur, inactitata edita, stabilita, et auctoritate dictae curiae constructa et approbata in forma sequent!. [Here follow die names of 24 Jurors for each Stannary.] Qui quidem Juratores dicunt presentant et inactitant prout sequitur : Be it enacted and establysshed by the hole body of the Stayniery in the high Court of Crockerntorr That no person neyther persones having possession of londes and tenements above the yerly value of X£ nor noone other to theyr use be owners of eny Tynwork or parcel of eny Tynworke. But suche as have Tynneworkes or parcell of Tynnworkes by inheritaunce from their auncesters or such as have now any Tynworkes in peasible possession by lawfull title or hereafter shall have within their owne frehold. Also that no abbot, priour, neyther ony spirituall person nor noone other to their use be owner of eny Tynneworke or parcell of eny Tynneworke but as be or hereafter shal be in their owne freholde, other then suche as they have now in peasible possession by lawfull title. Also that no warden of Staynierey, underwarden, steward, neither understeward ne clerke of the court of the Staynierey, bailyff or underbailyfF of Staynierey, neither no forster ne under forster of the More nor none other to their use be awner of eny Tynworke or par- cell of eny Tynneworke but such as have the saide tynneworke or parcell of a Tynneworke by inheritaunce from their auncesters or suche as have now eny Tynneworke in peasible possession by lawfull title. Also yf ony person or persones be owners of eny Tynneworke or parcell of ony Tynworkes contrary to theyes foresaide acts after Mighelmasse cometh twelvemoneth, that then he or they shall forfaite to the Prynce for every Tynnework that he or they beth so owners of, XX£, and the said tynworke or parcell of ony suche tynworke be forfeited to the said Prince. Also that from hensforth every Tynner that herafter shal pithe liiSTuRK ai !)(« i mi;m~. tsa ony tynworke that at the next lawe court after such pithe made, the same pither shal entre the hole bondes of the same tynworke in the same court and the name therof and as well to put in the names ai all those that such pither hath named owners in the same worke and this uppon paync of XL shillings to be forfaited to the Prince ; and whosoever pithe contrarie to this that then his pithe be voide. And that for eny such entre of ony suche bondes no payment be made therfor to warden, steward, steward's clerke or ony oder. Also that th'owners of everye blowing howse shal bryng a cer- ten marke of his blowing howse to the court of the stayniery within the precinct wher the said blowing howse is sett byfore that ony tynne shall be marked withal], to the entent that al suche markes may be drawen in a boke which shall remayne in the same court And all tynne to be blown in the same howse to berc the same marke and the marke of the owner. And if it shall happen from hensforth ony marchaunt to bye eny false tynne and su to be disseyved, that yf he bring to the court the marke of the blowyng howse and of the owner in metall, let him come theder with sufficiant evidens and prove that the tynne wheruppon the said marke was sett was false and uutridy medelyd, that they [then] incontinently the Prince's officers for the tyme being shal make seiche by the said boke who be owners of thoes markes and geve notice of their names to the warden or his deputie at the cunage in opyn court, and he forthwith shal committ theym to warde that oweth the markes and the blowers, and to compell theym to satisfye the marchaunt of al suche hurt and damage as he hath take by such false tynne, and then the blower to remayne in ward and make fyne as shall be thought resonable by the Prince and his councill. And that no money be payed for entre of ony marke in to the said boke to warden, steward, or steward's clerke or ony oder. Also that every owner of tynne that shal bring tynne into any blowing howse to be bloweu and fyned shal bryng a certen marke in to the said court ther to be put in a boke, as is afore rchersed, upon paync of X£ to be forfaited to the Prince, without ony payment makyng therfor as is afore said. Also that no suche owners shal chenge their marke soo ones marked and emprynted in suche a boke, neyder use eny oder markes without a reasonable cause shewed and approved by the warden or his deputie at the cunage in opyn court, and also that the new markes as they entend to use to be entred and marked in the same boke withouten ony monev paying. And yf ony tynne be founde having no markes or marked with ony oder marke then is comprised in the said boke, that then all suche tynne be forfaited to the Prynce. Also that no man from hensforth make no synder tynne after that it is wartered, be it allayed with oder tynne or not allaide, or eny oder manner of harde tynne without it be marked with this letter H as well as with the markes of the owners and blowing bowses, uppon payne of forfaitour thereof, th'one half to the Prince and th'oder half to the ffynder. 284 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. Also yf ony man from hensforth shall arreare and make eny new or chaunge his blowing howse, or ony new man entre into ony suche how6e, that then he shall not occupie the saide howse unto tyme he hath browght his marke to be drawen in a boke at the next court as is before rehersed without eny thyng paying, uppon payne of X£ to be forfaited to the Prince. Also that from hensforth ther shal no man learned in the lawes spiritualle or temporalle plede nor be a counsell to make bylle, plee or answer in ony court of the Stayniery uppon payne of XX £ to be forfaited th'on half to the Prince and th'oder half to them that wille sue the same. Also be it' enacted that no Tynner nor Tynners be in no wise reteyned with no maner man of what degre or condicion he be of by othe, promise, signe, token, liverey or fee, then suche as be menyall servaunts according to the lawes as is permitted, whatsomever he be shall forfaite unto the Prince every moneth XX shillings and the receyver XL shillings. Provided allewey that it be lawfull to every person, what pos- session he be of, to pi the, occupie, and enjoye ony tynnework or tynne- workes within ther owne frehold, ony acte or actes above rehersed or made notwithstondyng. Et nos Princeps prescripts omnia et singula actus statuta et ordinaciones predicta jure prerogative nostra? ac cum matura deli- beracione et advisamento consilii nostri ratificamus approbamus et confirmamus ac ab omnibus et singulis stannatoribus et aliis homi- nibus nostris firmiter observari in forma suprascripta volumu* et preecipinius sub pena incmnbente. Man dantes insuper gardiano custodi sive senescallo Stannari© nostras predict® et omnibus aliis officiariis nostris ac eorum deputatis quod omnia et singula actus statuta et ordinaciones prescripta observent et observari iaciant et execucioni demandent sicut decet. In cujus rei testimonium preseritibus sigillum nostrum apponi fecimus. Datum apud castrunvnostrum de Ludlowe tercio die mensis Aprilis anno supradicto. LYDFORD LAW, By William Browne. Supposed to have been written A.D. 1644. * I oft have heard of Lydford law, How in the morn they hang and draw, And sit in judgment after. At first I wonder'd at it much, But since I find the matter such, As it deserves no laughter. They have a castle on a hill ; I took it for some old wind-mill, The vanes blown off by weather. To lie therein one night 'tis guess'd 'Twere better to be ston'd or press'd, Or hangM, ere yon come hither. Two men less room within this cave -Than five mice in a lantern have :' The keepers too are sly ones : If any could devise by art To get it up into a cart, 'Twere fit to carry lions. When I beheld it, Lord ! thought I, What justice and what clemency Hath Lydford castle's high hall ! I know none gladly there would stay, But rather hang out of the way Than tarry for a trial. • Reprinted from the last edition of Wbstcotb'b Devon, edited by Dr. Oliver and Pitman Jones, Esq. 2 o 286 PERAMBULATION OF DAKTMOOK. Prince Cbtrles a hundred pounds kadi sent To mend the leads and ptanehings* njpft Within this firing tomb ; Some forty-five pounds more had paid The debts of all that shaD be laid There tffl the da j of doom. One lies there for a seam of malt, Another for two pecks of salt. Two sureties for a noble. If this be tree or else false news Yon may go ask of Master Crews, f John Vanghan or John Doble. % Near these poor men that lie in lurch, See a dire bridge, a little church, Seven ashes, and one oak ; Three booses standing, and ten down, They say the rector hath a gown, But I saw ne'er a cloak. Whereby yon may consider weM That plain simplicity doth dwell At Lydford without bravery ; And in that town both young and grave Do love the naked truth to have, No cloak to hide their knavery. This town's enclos'd with desert moors, But where no bear nor lion roars, And nought can live but hogs : For all o'erturn'd by Noah's flood, Of fourscore miles scarce one foot's good, And hills are wholly bogs. And near hereto's the Gubbins cave ;. A people that no knowledge have Of law, of God, or men : Whom Caesar never yet subdued ; Who've lawless livM ; of manners rude ; All savage in their den. ♦ Plaiichmg, a timber floor. This word is still in use, in the Devonshire vernacular. f The Steward. % Attorneys of the Court. LYDFORD LAW. By whom, if any pass that way, He dares not the least time to stay, For presently they howl ; Upon which signal they do muster Their naked forces in a cluster, Led forth by Roger Rowle. The people all within this clime Are frozen in the winter time, Or drown'd with snow or rain ; And when the summer is begun They lie like silkworms in the sun, And come to life again. 'Twas told me, ' in King Caesar's time This town was built of stone and lime,' But sure the walls were clay ; And these are fall'n for aught I see, And since the houses have got free, The town is run away. Caesar ! if thou there didst reign, While one house stands, come there again, Come quickly, while there is one ; For if thou stay'st one little fit, But five years more, they will commit The whole town to a prison. To see it thus, much griev'd was I ; The proverb saith sorrows be dry, So was I at the matter : When by good luck, I know not how, There thither came a strange stray cow, And we had milk and water. To nine good stomachs with our whigg, At last we got a tithen pig, This diet was our bounds ; And this was just and if 'twere known A pound of butter had been thrown Among a pack of hounds. 287 £88 PERAMBULATION OF DARTMOOR. One glass of drink I got by chance, Twas claret when it was in France, B„t now from it m«* wider; ' I think a man might make as good With green crabs boiTd in Braiil wood And half-a-pint of cider. I kiss'd the Mayor's hand of the town, Who, though he wears no scarlet gown, Honours the rose and thistle. A piece of coral to the mace, Which there I saw to serve in place, Would make a good child's whistle. At six o'clock I came away, And pray*d for those that were to stay Within a place so arrant : Wide and ope the winds so roar, By God's grace Fll come there no more Till forc'd by a tin-warrant FINIS. INDEX. Aberheved, 125. Abbot's Way, 146. Aboriginal inhabitants, 14 ; dwellings and villages, 41 ; bridges, 48. Agricultural improvements, 21G. ■ capabilities, 211, Albion of Aristotle, 52. Amicombe Hill, 192, 193. Answell Rock, 139, Archerton, 173. Arkite worship, 102, 179. Armeton, (Ermington,) 16. Ashbnrton, 139. Asiatic colonization of Devonshire, 16. Atlantis of the Antients, 52. Avenue, or Paralellithon, 24, 78, 156, 168, 182. Avon Head, 145 ; River, 146 ; course of, 165. B Balbeny and Pushyll villages, 259. Barat-anac, the Tin Country, 53. Baredown, or Bairdown, Maen, 179 ; Farm, 180; Bridge, ib. Barrow and Cairn, 35. Beacons in Devon, 69; Cosdon, ib.; among the Jews, 70 ; Greeks, ib. , Eastern, 148 ; Western, ib. Becky Fall, 120. Belerium, 61. Beltor, 140. Bellevor Tor, 172 ; Bridge, ib. Bickleigh Vale, 163 ; Church, ib. Birds of Dartmoor, 229. Blackabrook, 156 ; Bridge, 181. Black Tor, 146, 168. Blackystone, 116. Boringdon Camp, 160. Bottor, 119. Boundary lines or banks, 47, 130. Boundary Cross, 126. Bovey, North, 121 ; Heathfield, 124. Bowerman's Nose, 122. Bradmere, or Bradford Pool, 101. Bridford Kistvaen, 117. Bridges, Cyclopean, 48, 77, 172, 173, 180, 181. Britons, Western, civilization of, 62. — trade with Phoenicians and Greeks, 54, 55, 56, 57. Broadall Down, 153. Brent, South, 147. Brentor, 193. Buckfast Abbey, 144 ; Leigh, ib. Caesar's notice of pastoral habits of Britons, 43 ; of their strongholds, 44 ; of their metals, 57 ; of Druidism, 78, 96. Carta Johannis Comitis Moreton, 263. Regis Johannis, ib. Cassiterides, noticed by Herodotus, 54. Castor Rock, 80. Chagford, 98. Challacombe Down, 126. Cherrybrook, 171. China Gay works, near Shaugh, 155. Chittaford Down, 174. Cholwichtown Moor, 154. Chudleigh, 119. Clacywell Pool, 167. Clanaborough, 71. Clapper, 48, (note,) clam, ib. Clatters, 67. Coinage Rolls, 260. Commons of Devonshire, 144, 261, 278. Coryndon Ball, 146. Cosdon Hill, 67 ; Beacon, 66. Cowsic River, 179. Clifford Bridge, 115. 2 P 290 INDEX. Cranbrook Castle, 107. Cranmere Pool, 74. Crockern Tor, 169 ; Parliament, 261. Cromlech, 30, 33, 134, 146, 160, 183. Cocks Tor, 190. Cornish Tinners, (turbary and pasturage in Dartmoor,) grant to, 270. D Dart, source of, 76 ; course, ib. ; two branches, East and West, ib. ; scenery, 140 ; East, 141 ; West, 142. Dartmeet Bridge, 141. Dartmoor, and adjuncts, extent and boundaries of, 2 ; perambulation, 65 ; geological view, 203 ; mines and stream works, 208 ; soil and agri- cultural capabilities, 211 ; botany, 217 ; ornithology, 227 ; fishes, 237 ; mining, 239 ; sanitary condition, 251. Dean Burn, 144. Deluge, traditions of, 19, 104. Dennabridge Pound, 171. Devonshire, natural divisions of, 1. Doetor, 198. Dracontium, or Serpent-temple, 22. Drewsteignton, 98. Druidism, similar to oriental religion, 17 ; to Arkite worship, ib. Druidical temples, 21, Duchy revenues from tin, 245, 263. Dunsford Bridge, 116. E East Down, 121. Eastern Beacon, 148. Equatorial line of Dartmoor, 46. Ernie head, 150 ; River, ib.; course, 165. Eylesburrow, 164. Fernworthy Hedges, 125 ; Circle, 78. Fice'sWcll, 180. Fingle Bridge, 106. Forest bounds, 5 ; quarters, 5 ; drift, 6 ; tenants, 6. Definition of, 217, 256. Forts and Entrenchments, 49, Fox Tor, 165. Furtor, 191. G Geological character of Dartmoor, 7. view of Dartmoor, 203. Gertor, 192. Gidleigh Park, 81. Giant's Grave, 113. Granite, natural gateway, 109. Greeks of Marseilles, 54. Grey Wethers, 23, 110. Grimspound, 44, 127. Grimslake, 127 ; Grimsgrove, 151. Guile Bridge, Tavistock, 166, 189. H Hamildon, 129, 181; Tor, 129; Beacon, ib. Harford Bridge, 150 ; church, ib. Heathfowl, 75. Heltor, 96. Henbury fort, 143. Hessary Tor, South, 167 ; North, 184. Heytor, 123. Hingston Down, 66, 58. Hoga de Cosdown, 65. Holne Bridge, 140 ; Chase, ib. ; Lea, 143 ; Ridge, ib. Holstock, or Halstock chapel, 201. Houndtor, 123. Iktis of Diodorus Siculus, 58. Ina's Coombe, 190. Jesson Rock-gateway, 109. John, (King,) Charter of, 245. K King's Oven, 125, 178. King Tor, 129. Kistvaen, 84, 117, 123, 188, 141, 152, 172. Knattleburrow, 145. Lakehead Hill, 172. Langcomb Bottom, 151. Lee Moor, 155. INDEX. 291 Leigh Tor, 140. Lints Tor, or Limes Borough, 190. Logan Stone, 26, 105, 139. Longaford Tor, 175. Longstone Rock Pillar, 78. Lough tor, 171. Lustleigh, 118 ; Cleave, ib. Lyd River, course of, 76. Lydford, (or Lidford,) antient extent and importance of, 3 ; named in Domesday, ib. ; issues of the manor, 268; Fall, 194 ; Bridge, 195 ; Castle, 196, 268, 280 ; borough and manor accounts, 270 ; survey of borough and castle, 280 ; terrier of, 281. Lydford law, stanzas on, 285. M Manaton, 121 ; Maen-y-dun, 45. Mardon Down, 112. Marytavy, 192. Meavy, 164. Merivale Bridge, 185 Middledown, 109 ; Middlctor, 80. Mineral veins, 209. Mines and stream works, 208. Mining, History of, 239. Misletoe, in Devonshire, 177. Mistor, Great, (or Pan,) 184; Little, ib. Monumental relics, 20. Moreton Hampstead, 111. Mortgable, 259, 268 (note.) Mount Tavy, 191. N North Devon, extent of, 1. North Hall Manor, 137. Nomadic habits of antient Danmonians, 43, 64. O Ockment rivers, East and West, course of, 76 ; springs of, 77 ; union of, 199. Ornithology of Dartmoor, 227. Collections, 228. Ockment, West, 198 ; East, 201. Okelands, 199. Okehampton, 199 ; castle ib. ; park, 200. Pannage of pigs, 268. Paralellithons, 78, 156, 168, 183. Parliament, stannary, 281. Parliamentum indoctum, 262. Pasturage of cattle, 5. Pen Beacon, 153 ; Pensheil, ib. Perambulation, commencement of, 65 ; writ for, 265 ; copy of original, 266. Peter's Boundstone, 143. Petertavy, 192. Pisky, or Pixy house, 164. Plague Market, 182. Plants, catalogue of, 218. Plym, course of, 58, 164 ; Head, ib. Bridge, 163; Steps, 158. Plympton Earl, or Maurice, 161 ; St. Mary, ib. Prestonbury, 50, 107. Primitive implements of husbandry, 88. Prince Town, 168, 253. Prison of War, 247. Presentment at a survey court, 276. Post Bridge, 48, 173. Pounds, or antient circumvallations, 44, 71, 79, 121, 128, 156, 168, 174. Puckie Rock, 81. Pewtor, 187. Q Quadrupeds, (wild,) 235. Quarnian (or Quarnell) Tor, 178. Quarters or bailiwicks, (temp. Hen.VH.) 260. , bounds of, 164, 171, 192 ; accounts, 271. Quern, or hand-mill, 81. R Rattlebrook, 76, 192, 198. Reave of stones, erect, 131, 154. Redlake foot, 145. Rents of assize, (Lydford,) 268. Rippon Tor, 139. Rivers, source of, North Quarter, 76. , South Quarter, 164. Roborough Down, 164, 185. Rock-basins, 28, 124, 185. Rock-idols, 26. Rock-pillars, 39. Rocks, geological catalogue of, 206. 292 INDEX. Rolls Tor, 185. Roman camp, 156; road, 162. Rowbrook circle, 140. Rowtor, or Roughtor, 212. S Saddlebridge, 142. Sacred Circle, 21, 72, 78, 110, 156, 183. Sampford Spiney, 187. Sanitary condition of Dartmoor, 251. Scorhill Down, 72. Shapely Common, 126. Sharpitor, (Dart,) 140; (Erme,) 150. Shaugh Bridge, 158 ; church-town, 160; Common, ib.; Cromlech, ib. Sheepstor, 164. Shelstone Pound, 71. Shipley Bridge, 146. Sittaford Tor, 111. Siward's Cross, 1 64. Skair Gut, 142. Sparrow-giass, when injurious, 111. Soil and agricultural improvements, 211. South Brent, 147 ; Beacon, ib. Hams, extent of, 1. Stanlake, 168. Stapletor, Great, Middle, and Little, 1 85. Stengator, 198. Sticklepath, 66. Stream-works, 208, 260. Stannary enactments at Crockern Tor, (Hen. VII.) 282. Tamara, 63 ; Tamari Ostia, 59, 62. Tamarwcorth, 59. Tamerton, King's, 63. Tavistock, 187, 188, 189. Tavy, course of, 76, 188 ; valley of, 189, 190; Head, 191 ; Cleave, 192. Taw, course of, 76. Taw Marsh, 66. Tawton Common, 111. Teign, course of, 76 ; North, 73 ; South, 80 ; scenery of, 1 1 6. Teigncombe Common lane, 80. Thirlstonc, 73. Thornworthy Tor, 111. Three Burrow Tor, 1 46. Timber on Dartmoor, 175, 211, 217. Tin Bounds, antient, 131, 261, 262. Works, 55, 208, 260. Tithes of herbage of Dartmoor, 265. Tolmen, 83. Torhill, 138. Torry Head, 154; vale of, 161. Tor Royal, 182. Tracklines, 47, 124. Trackways, 46, 138, 146. Trowlsworthy tors, 156. Two Bridges, 179. Tynne Workes, orders and decrees for, (Hen. VU.) 281. Venville bounds, 4 ; tenures, 5 ; rights, 278. Via sacra of the Druids, 96. Vixen Tor, 185. W Walkham, course of, 76 ; vale of, 186. Walkhampton, 186. Wallabrook, 73, 141, 190. Warren Tor, 126. 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